amateur

Are you using the kit-supplied stuff, or are you making your own?
Your own willl stretch, the kit-supplied stuff will not (or far less)
I did not strtch mine, and it is still resonanbly tensioned.
On the other hand, there is always some stretch. So I did not fix my shrouds directly, i set them up, and did increase the tension after a couple of days.
Only my stays (whcih I made myself) had a tendency to lose tension over a period of weeks.
 
Jan

And toyour other question: Mayfower is a bit early for a 1690-ies ship.
Mayflower is more like 1610. Relatively small, and a bit old fashioned in her lines.
 
Jan

And toyour other question: Mayfower is a bit early for a 1690-ies ship.
Mayflower is more like 1610. Relatively small, and a bit old fashioned in her lines.
 
Jan

Added registration numbers and did some other jobs on the hull. Next job will be mould-making for wich I bought polyester and other stuff.
 

Perhaps you should dim the light somewhat.
The lanterns look good, but quite bright.
The original had oillamps and candles in the lantern, so not a very bright light....
 
Jan

So, yesterday I was continuing to make a sail.
The second sail:
 

 

 

 

 

 
Best Regards!
Igor.

So then I took out the canvas for some artistry, just to please Jan ;-)
 

 
Those officer´s cods kept me busy for almost 2 months ...
 
... first busy at work and then lot of wrong trials. First tried to pimp the cardboard pieces I used to determine the size of the cabins. Looked crap ...
 
Then thinner cardboard - looked crap too ...
 
Then i forgot how I did the canvas for the bulkheads - lot of crappy trials with crappy results ...
 
Then the canvas alone - too sloppy ...
 
Then inserted the bottom frame but the sides - too sloppy ... 
 
Only when I introduced the top lathes like in the original, then it works - result, keep as close to the original as possible :-)
 
 
 
And then the same game with the hangers. First tricked myself by trying to trick ...
 
Then the next try with the rope looped through with the wrong result of the rope coming out just one side.
 

 
Looked again at the original and knotted the 6 ropes each of them single.
 

 
Looked already better but the top knot looked too messy still. So used a comb to organise the ropes ...
 

 
... and it already looked better :-)
 

 
Fitted together ...
 

 
... put the laundry ...
 

 
... and dry fitted.
 

 
Cheers, Daniel

Hello Kees,
 
Like NIls, I'm very interested in how you go from here: you started detailing the hull, but I understood that this hull is the master, you are going to use to fabricate a negative mould. But how are you going to get all this fine detail in your final hull? Casting, vacuum?
 
Jan

fix some canvas, and call in the artist:)

fix some canvas, and call in the artist:)

Today was mostly taken up with gardening.  I had to cut back on the vines next to our house, in the vacant lot.  They are encroaching on our property and a general nuisance.  Then I had to mow the front yard and pull a few weeds there too.  
 
I didn't get to CA the gunport lid hinges though, I want to take my time with them.  Instead i made a few more single sheaf pulley blocks, that makes a now a total of 12 out of the 32 I need for the center deck guns.
 
Last week Friday I stropped two blocks to see if brass wire would work and look like compared to using black thread.  There is to be a hook at one end so that makes the tread method a little bulky.  I kinda like the brass but how to make them black.  I can't use the blackening method because I have to tack-solder the end where the hook is.  Yes, I made the strap and hook from one piece of 0.3 brass wire, rather then using a hook separate.  I can try to use a VERY small brush and paint the brass black.
Question is, what's all your opinion?  Hmmmm, I'm wondering - -  if I carefully paint the blackening on the brass, will it stain the blocks?  Any thoughts on this from the experts?
 
I'm attaching a photo of the port side hole open for yuns to see what I had in mind.  The hold will be loaded with wooden barrels and perhaps bales of "stuff."  Hey, it's supposed to be a merchant vessel and we need to have some cargo in the hold.
 

This shows two pulley blocks, one is strapped with black thread and the other with brass wire.  Don't forget that each pulley block is 5 mm long and about 2.5 mm wide.  It's really not easy to make a respectable knot or fastening with thread.  At this scale things quickly begin to look too bulky.
 

Here is another view
 

This show the opening in the port side of the hul where the plug goes to close it. Yes, everything still is in the rough state.  It'll all be stained and or painted when all the work in that area is done.
 

This is my handy dandy voltage converter for the 220 - 240 rated Dremel tool.  Yup, I'm actually drilling a rope hole for the next single sheaf pulley block.  Credit goes to my dear bride Gwen who took the photo.
 
Cheers,

I have glued the deckhouses to the deck and began to make the mast
 

 
And suddenly the weekend was ended ((

Now after almost twoo years the hull is allmost ready.
And I can start with the mast's and the rigging
Thanks for the support and I'll hope you still like it
 

Slowly progressing.
 
Some special knees half way down the hull
 

 
And the progress to date
 

 
The pump well I had made years ago got a bit beaten up in storage. As I also was not very happy with some of the dimension of the stock I used I decided to make a new one. 
 

 
I made a jig to make accurate cuts for the dado's on the stanchions, it's hard to see but at the far side where the blade cuts is a thin strip of wood the width of the blade to mak each cut at the same distance.
 

 
The finished stanchions, the vertical dado's were milled.
 

 
Remco

It seems that they are off both in breadth as well as in height. That's tough....
Question: are the frames properly centered (left/right the same distance from the keel, or were the pre-cut slots off-center?
 
Does the kit have a drawing on which the frames are depicted? If so, can you not check against those drawings which frames are more or less) correct, and which ones are off?
 
Jan

Hello Kees,
 
Like NIls, I'm very interested in how you go from here: you started detailing the hull, but I understood that this hull is the master, you are going to use to fabricate a negative mould. But how are you going to get all this fine detail in your final hull? Casting, vacuum?
 
Jan

The replica as built, not at 45 degrees, but not completely vertical.

Hello Kees,
 
Like NIls, I'm very interested in how you go from here: you started detailing the hull, but I understood that this hull is the master, you are going to use to fabricate a negative mould. But how are you going to get all this fine detail in your final hull? Casting, vacuum?
 
Jan

Hello Kees,
 
Like NIls, I'm very interested in how you go from here: you started detailing the hull, but I understood that this hull is the master, you are going to use to fabricate a negative mould. But how are you going to get all this fine detail in your final hull? Casting, vacuum?
 
Jan

The replica as built, not at 45 degrees, but not completely vertical.

The easiest way is just go by Corels instructions. They are relatively easy to follow, as they give eachblock and belayingpint a number, and the rigging instruction says which order you have to follow fromblock to block.
 
They also follow the standard practice: first the shrouds, next the stays, than the backstays, and finally the running rigging.
Standing rigging was treated with stockholm tar, a dark brown oily substance, which acted as a preservative. running rigging wasnt treated.
For the ratlines: draw a template, and keep that behind the srhouds to get your lines evenly, and prevent the outer shrouds to be pulled inward, as a resukt of too much tension in the ratlines.
 
 
alternatively, you can try to come somewhat closer to the original practice, and buy a larkger range of blocksizes and rope diameters. In that case don'tmake my mistake..I did not make a complete overview of what should go where, so i had to redo quite a number of my blocks and lines, as I discovered too late that iput thewrong size in the wrong place ....
 
Jan

The easiest way is just go by Corels instructions. They are relatively easy to follow, as they give eachblock and belayingpint a number, and the rigging instruction says which order you have to follow fromblock to block.
 
They also follow the standard practice: first the shrouds, next the stays, than the backstays, and finally the running rigging.
Standing rigging was treated with stockholm tar, a dark brown oily substance, which acted as a preservative. running rigging wasnt treated.
For the ratlines: draw a template, and keep that behind the srhouds to get your lines evenly, and prevent the outer shrouds to be pulled inward, as a resukt of too much tension in the ratlines.
 
 
alternatively, you can try to come somewhat closer to the original practice, and buy a larkger range of blocksizes and rope diameters. In that case don'tmake my mistake..I did not make a complete overview of what should go where, so i had to redo quite a number of my blocks and lines, as I discovered too late that iput thewrong size in the wrong place ....
 
Jan

"Tromp" in the process of ...
 
 

It is finished !!!
Model cruiser "Tromp" ready!  
If you still have a desire to acquire it, then!
The set includes - resin parts, PE, brass barrels & masts + decals.  
 
https://www.facebook.com/PacificCrossRoadsModels

If this is your weekly wage for restoration activities, you'll get pretty drunk after finishing the Norske Lowe
 
Jan