kurtvd19

Had a question during this morning's Virtual Workshop on where to get the type of saw shown in the photo below. This tool guy has a lot on neat stuff. Visited one the NRG Conferences as a vendor and loves the way we buy tools! He's a member of my local IPMS club.

The ELIE MARA kit by Blue Jacket is based on the GRACE BAILEY schooner in the article. The kit was reviewed here and in the NRJ. The GRACE BAILEY has an interesting history going back to 1882.

Or just click on the cover of the Journal shown on the upper right area of the home page here at MSW and you will wind up at the same page.

The Badger Modelflex Marine Colors line of paints was matched to Floquil Marine Paints and Snyder & Short's color chips. These are carried by Ages of Sail - one of MSW's Sponsors as well as another of our sponsors USA Airbrush Supplies. You can find both in the list of sponsors on the right side of the home page.

I have both booklets Bob listed and they are helpful.

My Ace Hardware store has a huge selection of metric hardware.

If the guard is hot it is being contacted by the belt or the pulley. If the belt guard is hot at the rear look to see it the belt is running in line with the front belt pulley - parallel to the side of the saw. I just looked at both of my saws and the belt is approximately 3/8" clear of the side of the saw and about 1/4" clear of the inside surface of the belt guard. This is at the front as the rear pulley is deep inside the guard thus dark back there. But you can see if the belt and its pulley is clear of the guard at the front and you should be able to see to the back to see if it is running in line with the front pulley. I used a small flashlight. The belt guard can be removed to check this. Also, turn the saw on to see if the belt stays in alignment with the saw running. Only friction of the belt or a pulley rubbing against the guard can be your source of heat as there is nothing else there. Be sure to tell us what you find.

Thanks for doing this most unusual but very interesting build log, Looking forward to seeing new foods come out of this kitchen.

Through the efforts of one of our volunteer members who is doing the extracting of articles from old Journals and our webmaster, we now have several Volumes added to the NRG Store. These articles can be a big help to researchers. The annual Indexes are also on the website (under the Journal heading) and a subject can be searched and if we have printed an article or several the articles are found in the store. Easy to use and downloadable - no waiting. Check them out. All articles will eventually be available here.

I have paper/program I am working on called "Sequencing your scratch build project" so that the project can be planned out before any wood is cut. Steve Wheeler and I used to say we built each model three times in our head before actually starting to cut wood. Maybe the program when completed will maybe eliminate one of the "mind builds". Of course anything concocted by the two of us rightfully is capable of scaring people if you ask Mary.

I agree 100% on the stability issue. I have been on many a towboat where the barges acted as a sail catching the wind to cause steering issues but little to no rocking. So low in the water and so much mass produces stability. This was mostly on the IL River which isn't very wide, but Lake Peoria, a very wide spot in the river was avoided during high winds. Boats and barges would tie up and not enter the lake with high winds. Without the shielding of the river banks, trees, etc. it could be a handful to cross unless the boat had a lot of power.

The Nautical Research Guild is proud to offer this reprinting of Steel’s Tables – Compiled and arranged by Yuri Miroshnikov for Model Ship World and the Nautical Research Guild. This is a great version of Steel’s Tables neatly and clearly arranged to be very useful in the shop. This downloadable version can be printed out page by page so you can print out the pages you need for your current project. Want larger pages to tape to the wall by your work area? Download to a flash drive and take it to a print shop and have the needed pages printed out in any size you want. This book is provided as a PDF download. Details Digital book, delivered as a PDF that is viewable on computers, tablets and mobile devices. 104 pages. Price $10 $8 with NRG Member Discount STORE LINK

cotrecerf: It is working now. A slight error was made when the offer was initially posted - it was corrected early this AM. Thanks for being understanding and considering it as a donation. If the donation does not work in the future, drop an email to the office and Mary will do her best to get it working and will send you an email when it is working - all our members are entitled to the discount. Take care, Kurt

Eric this is amazing. Tempted to buy one - I am just not up to all the manual labor you went through. Not rich by any body's definition but I definitely have more money than energy! You have the oven under cover. Is that necessary? Everything you did looks great. Would love to try the okra done your way. Kurt

The Nautical Research Guild is proud to offer a reprinting of Steel’s Tables compiled and arranged by Yuri Miroshnikov for Model Ship World and the Nautical Research Guild. If you have ever tried to use Steel’s Tables for your masting and rigging, you will appreciate how much work went into this compilation. This book is a must-have for anyone building a British warship of the late 18th century. This version is arranged by the size of the ship, making it easy to find any information. This downloadable version is in .pdf format, allowing you to print only the pages you need for your current project. The price is only $10, $8 for members with your NRG discount. It is available in the NRG STORE

Thanks, I will give it a try.

Congratulations on a very well done model. I have truly enjoyed following your work. I would like to encourage you to enter Thistle in the 2024 Model Show & Contest at the WI Maritime Museum at Manitowoc. I think you would enjoy meeting and hanging out with the modelers and you might be surprised with the results of the competition. Regardless of where it would place I know there are a bunch of us that would enjoy looking closer at Thistle. Again, congratulations on a great model. Any idea of what's next? Kurt

I miss having an Aloe plant in the house. My Mother had a bunch in a built in planter that was a sort of room divider between the living room and den. When we bought the house Mary had me get rid of the aloe plants because she is allergic to aloe. It was always handy to just cut off a bit to apply to burns. Quite common for me or Dad to get small burns from firefighting activities. Back then we didn't have the protective gear they have now or even what I used in my career that ended 26 years ago now - I Love Retirement!

Those appear to be home made. Check some of the vendors in the right column of this site's main page - I would start with Ages of Sail as most likely to have something similar. I have a bunch of similar (but much higher quality) made by Xacto many years ago. Search clamps bock on our main page - there have been similar home made clamps here some I believe had sketches.

Nicely done!

Eric: I don't know how I missed your new project - I guess I have been busier that I thought. Great subject. I will be following along. Kurt

Stay away from store bought mushrooms then!

I use them in the shop too Bob.

Good idea Roger. I got tied of searching for the pin and after I had to make a replacement pin I drilled through the center as shown by the RED arrow and tethered it to the miter gauge with some flexible, multi strand (7) stainless steel jewelers wire - so I couldn't drop it!. There is a small loop that the screw used to lock the gauge adjustment secures to the gauge - GREEN arrow - with the other end looped through the pin. Jewelers crimps secure the ends of the wire to the wire - they will not come undone. Before I get a bunch of cautions regarding the wire and the saw blade I considered this carefully and experience has shown that the wire is just stiff enough that it will not flop over to the right due to the pinching of the wire by the gauges locking screw - with the knurled knob. I have used this set up for over 10 years w/o a problem. If I ever have a need to undo the wire from where it is held under the screw I will probably shorten the wire a bit. I made it long so I would not have a problem with it being in the way when using the miter gauge but it has proven to be absolutely no problem - and if anybody checks with me in another 10 years I will probably never have actually followed through with shortening the wire. I have never regretted using the wire and from past experience I know I have saved a lot of time. I have never had a need to use the miter gauge to the right of the blade and the extended miter bar will not allow me to do so without it's removal and I am sure I would reverse the wire's positioning to go to the opposite side of the blade. That is when I will shorten the wire for sure! Kurt

The Badger paints are acrylics - thinned with water.