kurtvd19

I just found your latest build and I am realty enjoying it.  I don't know how I missed it but I find your work very interesting and your use of the chalk and alcohol to weather the wood is very realistic.  Keep posting the interesting work you are so good at.
Kurt
 

I just found your latest build and I am realty enjoying it.  I don't know how I missed it but I find your work very interesting and your use of the chalk and alcohol to weather the wood is very realistic.  Keep posting the interesting work you are so good at.
Kurt
 

I just found your latest build and I am realty enjoying it.  I don't know how I missed it but I find your work very interesting and your use of the chalk and alcohol to weather the wood is very realistic.  Keep posting the interesting work you are so good at.
Kurt
 

I just found your latest build and I am realty enjoying it.  I don't know how I missed it but I find your work very interesting and your use of the chalk and alcohol to weather the wood is very realistic.  Keep posting the interesting work you are so good at.
Kurt
 

I just found your latest build and I am realty enjoying it.  I don't know how I missed it but I find your work very interesting and your use of the chalk and alcohol to weather the wood is very realistic.  Keep posting the interesting work you are so good at.
Kurt
 

I just found your latest build and I am realty enjoying it.  I don't know how I missed it but I find your work very interesting and your use of the chalk and alcohol to weather the wood is very realistic.  Keep posting the interesting work you are so good at.
Kurt
 

I just found your latest build and I am realty enjoying it.  I don't know how I missed it but I find your work very interesting and your use of the chalk and alcohol to weather the wood is very realistic.  Keep posting the interesting work you are so good at.
Kurt
 

The futtock shrouds are attached to the futtock stave below and the futtock plate above.  An eye with a thimble is spliced into the upper end of the futtock shroud.  A double hook connects the shroud and the futtock plate. 
To make the stropped thimble, I took some line and unfurl the end.   Using a blunt needle, I made an opening in the line approximately the circumference of the thimble away from where the unfurling stopped and fed the unfurled end through the opening.  Once the line has been passed through the opening, the opening will naturally retwist itself.  A piece of  brass tube (the thimble) was inserted into the eye and the splice was glued.  The thimble was blackened after it was stropped because handling would have caused the patina to rub off. 

The brass tube is slightly wider than the diameter of the rope.  To keep the thimble from falling out of the splice, I placed it on an anvil and tapped each open end with a center punch.  This added a slight lip to the thimble. The double S-hooks are 1/8” long and were made from 24 g wire, using round-nose pliers.  The picture shows them attached to the futtock plates.

The futtock shroud was attached to the futtock stave by wrapping around the stave and securing it to the lower shroud with two round seizings.  In the drawing, the futtock shroud is shown in red and the lower shroud in blue.  After they were installed four rows of ratlines were added.

  

If you are an NRG member there is a video posted in the member's section on Airbrush Basics.  In addition there is a list of resources with the video that lists some informational videos on cleaning your airbrush.  Open the NRG website and look under Events then pick Workshops from the drop down.
 

If you are an NRG member there is a video posted in the member's section on Airbrush Basics.  In addition there is a list of resources with the video that lists some informational videos on cleaning your airbrush.  Open the NRG website and look under Events then pick Workshops from the drop down.
 

If you are an NRG member there is a video posted in the member's section on Airbrush Basics.  In addition there is a list of resources with the video that lists some informational videos on cleaning your airbrush.  Open the NRG website and look under Events then pick Workshops from the drop down.
 

If you are an NRG member there is a video posted in the member's section on Airbrush Basics.  In addition there is a list of resources with the video that lists some informational videos on cleaning your airbrush.  Open the NRG website and look under Events then pick Workshops from the drop down.
 

There are several holes in the top, which are marked in the picture below.  On the curved rim are eleven holes for the crow’s feet:  two between each slat and one through it.  There are three rectangular openings on each side rim for the futtock plates.  The four marks on the aft rim are for the railing stanchions.  Finally, there are four openings on either side of the center opening for the buntline and leechline blocks. 

Futtock plates are the metal straps that surround the lower topmast deadeyes.  The topmast shrouds are two-thirds the size of the lower mast shouds.  The deadeyes are 3” thick and 6” in diameter.  The futtock plate is one-third the thickness of the deadeye and three times its diameter long.  At 1:48 scale, that would be .02” x 0.375”.  They were made from 22 gauge wire.
 
The sequence of construction can be seen in the photo.  First, heat-soften the metal and wrap a piece around the deadeye.  Remove the deadeye and solder the ends of the two legs together.  Reinsert the deadeye to confirm the location of the throat and mark it with a Sharpie.  Determine the correct length for the plate by measuring 0.375” down from the throat and mark this measurement as well.  Remove the deadeye and  solder the legs together closer to the throat.  File the legs flat and cut the legs to the correct length.  Round off the end and drill a hole for a hook to insert into.  Pickle the plate and insert the deadeye.  Hammer or squeeze the legs of the futtock plate together for a snug fit and blacken. 

The holes in the top were enlarged and the plates were temporarily inserted.

Before the futtock shrouds can be installed, eight blocks must be stropped and installed on the undersurface of the top.  All my blocks are made of boxwood.  Blocks are not commercially available for all sizes.  For example, the quarter and truss pendant blocks should be 6.5 mm but the closest available block is only 5mm.  A good reason to learn how to make your own blocks!  The kit comes complete with all of the necessary blocks except the jeer blocks, which the modeler will learn how to make. 
 
Determining the dimensions of blocks is not difficult; all you need to know is the size of the line that passes through it.  The width of the sheave opening is 116% the diameter of the line.  For simplicity, call that  “1”.  The relative dimensions are as seen in the drawing below.  The only difference between a single and a double or triple block is/are the spacers between the sheaves The size of the strop grooves on the sides of the block varied; the relative size of the strop decreased as the size of the block  increased.
  
 
There are four leech line and four bunt line double blocks mounted under the top.  The bunt line blocks are closer to the center opening and the leech line blocks are closer to the rim.  The difference in the size of the blocks is small, so the kit will use the same size blocks for both.  They are secured to the top with a strop and peg.  To make the strop, I took a piece of 1” rope and untwisted both ends.  I cut across each untwisted end diagonally to decrease the thickness of the splice, wrapped the two ends together and glued the splice.  A simple knot was placed over the splice.  The block was inserted into the strop and secured with a throat seizing, hiding the splice.
 
The openings in the top were enlarged with a #11 blade, working from both sides of the top.  A thread was passed through the strop loop and both ends of the thread were inserted through the under surface of the top, pulling the strop through the top.  Wood pegs were used to hold the strops in place.  The futtock plates were inserted through the openings in the rim.

While I was away, I had taken a bunch of milled cedar strips of various widths.  All were 3/64" thick.   I spent my evenings planking the decks which was quite nice and relaxing.  My wife was also enjoying some wine from the local vineyards while working on her own relaxing projects while overlooking the Long Island Sound.
 
Not much to say about how to plank the decks as the gun deck and poop were planked like any other deck.  Just taper the strips following the provided deck plans.   You must cut around the hatches and coamings as usual.   These were the most difficult planks to cut but not awful.   It just takes careful planning and cutting.
 
These were the last two planks which I waiting to return home so I could photograph them before gluing them in permanently.
 

Here are some photos of the completed deck planking.   The forecastle deck planks were cut from a 3/64" sheet because of their curvature as I mentioned.  But the gun deck and poop were planked with strips.  The curves are not that severe and it was a lot easier this way.   Note the gentle curve of the planks.
 

NOW...how much deck planking should be added.   Its really just a personal decision.  What do like more....or less.
 
I have an extra strake on the gun deck where  the cannon will be located.  I dont particularly like when the carriage trucks are hanging over the edge if there were too few strakes.   But maybe you are OK with that.  This planking scheme matches the plans I provided but you guys can change to suit your sensibilities.  Looking at the photos you can see why I omitted all of the deck knees (hanging and lodging).  You can try really hard but would ever be able to see even a whisper of them.  It just doesnt make sense to add them with this planking layout.  I hope you will agree.
 


Next up will be something I have been blissfully ignoring.  Its a bit terrifying for any ship modeler. I will be drilling the scupper holes and hawse holes.   Usually I drill the scuppers after adding the waterway.  But this usually chips and frays the waterway.   So I am going to try something new.  I will drill the scuppers first and then add the waterway strip.   I will mark and file the waterway strip so it will hopefully not get damaged.  We shall see.
 
The hawse holes are a different story.  Those will require some really careful planning.
 
But waiting any longer to do these will only make them more terrifying. 
 
Chuck
 

Virtual Workshop
Saturday, June 17, 2023
10:30 AM Central Time
 
DIORAMA WATER CRAFTING
By NRG Director Ron Neilson
 

 
The workshop will explain various materials and methods for creating realistic-looking seascape settings for large-scale wooden ship models. 
Ron’s sailing ship dioramas have garnered several awards for his depictions.
 
Sign up information will be sent to all NRG member's on or about June 1.
 
The workshop will explain various materials and methods for creating realistic-looking seascape settings for large-scale wooden ship models. 
Ron’s sailing ship dioramas have garnered several awards for his depictions.
 

*The HMS Camilla model & her diorama won Best of Show: First Place, Sail and the judged, Jim Roberts Award at the recent 40th Annual Northeast Joint Clubs Ship Modeling Conference & Show, April 29, 2023.
 
 

Some different advice:
 
Assuming that you have access to a basic collection of hand tools and know how to use them, your first model should be the one that you really want to build; kit or scratch it really doesn’t matter.  Plodding thru a beginner kit that does not interest you will not increase your interest in the hobby.  It is my opinion that .most ship modeling projects are abandoned when the builder loses interest not because they are too difficult.
 
I likewise, do not see plastic modeling as an entry to building wooden models.  Plastic modeling appears to have reached a level of sophistication where it can stand on its own as a separate modeling experience.  While I don’t personally build plastic models, I enjoy scanning the threads posted for both ship and aircraft plastic models.  Much of the work is incredible.
 
Another entry point would be the series of kits developed and sold directly by the Nautical Research Guild.  So far they offer three modeling kits:  A planking model, A capstan model, and coming soon a rigging model.  These are short term projects that would give the novice builder a taste for ship modeling without a making a major time or cost commitment.
 
Roger

CAF is legitimate.  They are a MSW Sponsor/Advertiser.  Check the right hand column of the home page.
 

CAF is legitimate.  They are a MSW Sponsor/Advertiser.  Check the right hand column of the home page.
 

CAF is legitimate.  They are a MSW Sponsor/Advertiser.  Check the right hand column of the home page.
 

The futtock staves were made from 3” served rope and are located as far below the trestle trees as the top of the mast is above the trestle trees, approximately seven feet.  For ease of installation, I used served 24 gauge wire, rather than rope.  They were lashed to the shrouds.  The picture on the left shows the lashing in white for clarity and the finished product on the right.
 
And now it is time for the dreaded ratlines.  There are some lines on a ship that are a do not change with the size of the ship, such as the footropes and ratlines, both of which must hold a seaman’s weight.  The ratlines are made of tarred 1.5” rope.  At this scale, I simply tied, rather than lashed, them to the outer shrouds.  They are secured to the inner shrouds with clove hitch knots, a drawing of which is below.  This picture is also from The Boy’s Manual.

Ratlines are spaced 12-15” apart and are parallel to the waterline.  The easiest way to keep them even is to make a line jig.  There is a tendency to pull the shrouds inward as the ratlines are added.  I like to secure a brass rod or stick to the outer shrouds to keep them straight.  This is my setup.  The clips are holding the line jig in place.  The ratlines are parallel to the waterline, not to the deck. After several hours, 220 knots and fifteen scale feet of rope, the ratlines were finished. 
 
Catharpins are ropes with an eye at each end which extend across and are seized to the shrouds at the level of the futtock staves.  According to Steel, sloops were not equipped with catharpins but I included them in the kit to illustrate their construction.  I made them from 22 gauge wire with a loop on each end.  As there is no tension on them, I did not solder the loops closed.  The catharpins are served and the ends are painted black to simulate the eye splice.    The first catharpin is located just aft of the mast and the other two are spaced out evenly along the futtock stave.

This completed the standing rigging of the lower mast.  As mentioned earlier, because this is a cross section model, lines that would not terminate on the model, such as the stays and backstays, were omitted.

Not for sale, LOL...
 
Interestingly enough,  there were about eight or nine models that I placed on the set.   Several of mine and many others from members of my local Ship Model Society of New Jersey club.   Someone was so taken by one of the models  that they bought it.   And for a very handsome sum.  I have no idea who.   It was an anonymous sale through the production studio.  So it was a success for many model ship modelers I know.   Maybe if it goes well and enough ship model content isnt cut from the final movie, it will also encourage a few to give it a try.   You never know!!!

Actually it survived without a scratch.   I was very lucky.   But yes they clearly dont know how to handle a ship model.   I wonder if Ed Harris also autographed an original Jackson Pollock with a sharpie during that film....LOL.  Not that you would be able to tell.
 
 

Looks like the one from Harbor Freight -cheaper to go buy one than the cost of shipping.  I don't often mention Harbor Freight but for some stuff they are pretty good.
 

Looks like the one from Harbor Freight -cheaper to go buy one than the cost of shipping.  I don't often mention Harbor Freight but for some stuff they are pretty good.
 

The flanking rudders move to aid maneuvering.  Water flowing over a rudder from the props is very effective in turning the boat (high velocity) while water flowing over the rudder in baking up and not from the props is very ineffective in steering (low velocity).  Thus the flanking rudders being ahead of the props work very well in controlling turning while in reverse.   The boat can move sideways when the flanking rudders are turned one way with the steering rudders (behind the props) are turned in the opposite direction with one prop in reverse and the other going ahead.  I can't remember the combination of port or starboard props in forward and port or starboard in reverse with the direction of the flanking rudders being to port or starboard and steering rudders to being to port or starboard, but both props and rudders must be set in opposite directions to move the boat sideways.
 
Pilots can do this in their sleep before they are entrusted to operate a towboat with barges.  I have spent a lot of time on towboats on the IL River when I was associated with the owner of the business and while I did a lot of steering on mostly straight parts of the river or gentle sweeping turns I would never have thought of asking if I could attempt a sharp turn where operating both sets of rudders and using reverse on one prop to aid turning knowing the pilot would absolutely not allow it.  Back then I was into R/C boats and had a twin screw towboat with steering and flanking rudders with individual motor control.  The towboat company had a real nice shallow pond adjacent to their office building and our Radio Control Model Boat club was able to enjoy operating our boats there.  I used to truly enjoy calling out to a Captain or Pilot and ask them if the wanted to operate my tow.  They all said yes without hesitation - the first time.  After a quick explanation of which control lever on the radio was the steering rudders with the other by default the flanking rudder, the port and starboard motor controls were very obvious which controlled the props.  On a 1:1 towboat the steering controls are horizontal levers that operate on a concentric pair of control rods to the rudders.  The engine controls are side by side levers with duplicate sets of motor controls on each side of the steering levers.
 
Like I said earlier all Pilots and Captains can make their boats move in any direction by combining steering and motor controls as describer earlier.  They don't have to think about forward/reverse/port/starboard.  But the simple fact that there  is a different R/C control layout than in any towboat caused them to screw up the simplest maneuver.  Most would hand me the radio and walk away after just a few minutes.  But most of them came back later because "no toy boat is smarter than me!"  We did have a lot of fun operating at the shipyard.