Cabbie

Cheers again, very helpful posts. I shall probably go with a 20 gun and work up, as this make most sense.
 
I have to be honest and say I have never bothered to see what other companies are doing, I have never cared one jot, as I have always preferred to do what I think is right/what I like, rather than reacting to what others are doing.
 
Having said that, Initially, Atalanta was on the cards, as I bought the plans for that - but I now realise the everyone and their mother are now doing a Swan class, so I feel a 20 gun small frigate from the same period is a very good substitute.
 
Out of all the kits I have designed in the past, there are only two I would very much like to revisit and give them the treatment/designs they so deserve, a brig and a small ship of the line, which I did two decades ago.
 
Lou, I keep looking at my Bristol designs, and may carry on with them, but knowing what I know now, I need more slightly smaller kits before purchasing the large amount of materials needed for such a large kit. When I started Bristol, the plan was to use standard materials (basswood), and use my Italian sub contractor to laser cut the parts - but this has changed as I realised quickly that the standards/quality of cutting were not what I had envisaged.
 
The upside to this is that it forced me to purchase my own laser machine, and a lot more freedom to design how I like without worrying about the costs of paying someone for the time, and wondering if all the parts I paid for will fit as I want them to.
 
One more thing I would like to add, not a single part of my new kits are an 'afterthought', I try to give each and every part the attention they need, so that they fit with the 'whole'

Cheers
 
The problem is that I no longer want to design 'block models', which the majority of mainstream kits are - just a keel and a few bulkheads and one full deck, perhaps one more not so full deck for larger kits and a few white metal parts or blocks of wood to fill in the design/production time saving gaps.
 
When I populate the lower decks, the amount of materials (and cutting time) increases many fold. But this is the way I want to design the larger kits, as this is what I would want if I were choosing a kit. I like having the gratings put to one side so I can see down to the depths of the vessel, not have pretend shutters to hide the fact there's nothing there.
 
Also for larger models, the new method of designing the gun port surrounds uses a lot of material, but I think, again, it is worth it, as it eliminates completely any ambiguity of having to mark out or, if it's a pre cut part, misaligning the ports.
 
I guess my aim is to try and eliminate the guesswork involved in making the kits and make it as painless as I can. Some are expert and much better than me at building models, but there are many who do need an extra hand, and it is to these people I try and think about the most. The most experienced always go their own way anyway. I am always astonished at what some of you guys can do with the simplest of kits and make them your own.

Work has progressed on the stern and I've completed placing all of the figures etc.
 
I can't say enough about the quality of the castings. Now I just have to finish placing
the drops and the two figures on the quarter galleries.
 

 

 

 
Now in other news.... a year and a half ago our other shipmate passed leaving our Westie as
the sole assistant. The Admiral decreed that a new shipmate must be acquired. After months
of searching a suitable replacement was found and arrived this week. She is an eight week old 
miniature schnauzer.
 
Now some may be wondering why I'm putting this here in my build log? The Admiral knows and
supports my ship building hobby but other than the Constitution I don't think she could name
any other model I have built over the years. So when the new shipmate arrived I inquired as to
the name she had chosen and this floored me.
 
 
Everyone meet Winnie!!!!!
 

Mastini Masting Machine at work!
 

Lots of progress though I've been slowed down because the kit is missing a gaff and two cleats. Also, my only set of sharp drill bits (purchased from Amazon) were super brittle and all the bits broke pretty quickly. 
 
I really dislike the stock brass mountings for the boom and gaffs, so I purchased some 2mm beads to make proper trucks. I also hand carved a couple of boom cleats from basswood and hope they'll be an acceptable match for the ones in the kit. 
 
While I'm busy waiting, I ordered some replacement rope and blocks from Chuck. Should give the model a nice look.
 
 

 

 
 

 
 

Coming along nicely. Thinking about replacing the brass clips for the boom and gaft with parrels. Wonder what size of beads I could use for that?
 
Ropes are another detail I'm starting to learn about as well. The kit comes with some beige twine but I'd like to have both standing and running rigging (with sails), so I may need replacements.
 

Cabins are finished and I just wrapped up the barrel. The pump is next and then I'll finally get to the rigging.
 
Anyone know where I could get sails for this model?

Very nice lines. Vlad 

Exciting stuff!  Looking great, Will!

Ok so tomorrow was a week away and I finished the cap rails. Had somewhat of a difficult time getting the top surface between the cap rail and the 1/16" trim even and smooth. Sanding tended to radius the top of the cap rail so I removed the 1/16" trim and made a new one. I made sure the new trim was above the cap rail about 1/64" so I could fill any gaps with putty and then sand the top flat and smooth without seeing a seam. Painted and sanded until it looks like one piece.
 

 
 

 
 
 
The cap rail being completed it was time to attack the margin plank. As others had seen and noted the laser cut pieces don't align with the inside of the bulwarks. I was going to use them as patterns to cut pieces out of cedar, so reading others on using the print of the deck as a starting point off I went making my own. A little digression. Ive found that while making the Morgan I really enjoy scratch building as others have said so I started the NRGs 1776 Washington Row Galley and it is quite a challenge. Ok back to Syren. I had some boxwood from the Washington so I decided to use it for the deck planking and made my bow planks from it. Ripped some 3/16" X 1/16" strips for the margin. I have to cut the scarf joints for the planks. Ive decided to make the length of the pieces to scale and since the construction used wood usually no longer the 24'  to 26' I going to make the margin at 25'. I went ahead and milled more lumber to 1/16" and ripped enough 1/16" X 1/8" strips for the decking material. Now its on to the margin planks scarfs and installation. I've read several method to make the 1/16" X 1/16" X 45 degree waterway and am not sure how i'd like to proceed so any ideas would be appreciated. 
 
All the pieces for the margin planks and deck planks along with Dubz layout for the planking.
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
Stay well
 
Until the margin planks
Will   

Well, this one has been a LONG time coming. 
 

 
I mean, this lockdown seems to have lasted a lifetime, so the original notice of Amati's now almost mythical 1:64 HMS Victory seems to have been such a long time ago! A lot of water has passed under the bridge since 2013 when Chris drove to Italy with the original design model in late 2013. Amati had enough general interest about their Victory from modellers to warrant then asking me to build a production prototype for the new format instruction manuals they now use. There were a few changes from Chris' original kit too, and Amati wanted those incorporated in the new manuals. 
 
Those manuals (yes, plural!) will contain (tentatively) around 1500 build photos, and be perfect-bound, glossy productions. I've already broken down Chris' construction into a multitude of chapters, with each depicting a specific sequence/task. For example, there will be a chapter for building each size of gun, each of the launches, the stove, first planking, but also for fitting out whole decks. 
 
For this build, I will use the existing manuals that Chris made when he finished his kit.
 

 
Since Chris designed the model, Amati's laser manufacturer had changed the specs on sheet size that they could cut, so the sheet layouts needed to be rehashed for the new sizes. That was done earlier this year, but just when everything looked like it was going to plan (again), Italy, then the rest of the world, went into lockdown. So here we now are on the other side....just about.
 
DHL delivered the HUGE box not long ago, and it is fantastically heavy! What is omitted at the moment are some first layer planks that they will ship when back in stock, and the cannon and figurehead. They won't be needed for a long time. They are also waiting on the copper PE, but I do have all the sheets of brass PE here. So, we have bags of laser-cut material (MDF, ply, timber), sleeves of strip (lots of them!), bags of PE and a whole bag of various fittings. I already have the thirty-one sheets of plans. 

Remember, this isn't a review, but just a build log. I cant review something like this which isn't quite complete. That's not the purpose. 
 

 
 
Inside the box, all the laser cut parts were bagged into two thick poly sleeves. These packs were of course the real weight behind this delivery. I'll open them later to look through them but I've included a few images they sent me of the parts before they shipped out.
 

 








 
The sheer quantity of strip and dowel in this model is bewildering. The only time I've seen as much as this is when I've been in a hobby shop!

 
 
Fittings. Usually Amati pack these into trays, but for this purpose, all the stuff is in little bags and sleeves and bundled into this substantial bag. You name it, and it's in here...
 

 
Photo etch: Here's all the brass sheet stuff. I am waiting on the copper parts yet, but thought you'd like to see these.
 

 
 
 
 
As I've been promising this kit arriving for a long time, I felt the need to stick my flag in the ground and start a build log showing the stuff that I now have.
 
I won't be actually starting this until after 3rd August as I'll be away, plus I also have a project I need to take care of before that (written article, not a build).
 
So....there we have it!!!
 
**Apologies for phone camera pics too. The build will be done like my typical studio photos**

Hi Medy,
 
Nice to see you and your work here at MSW. Those models are beautiful, especially the top photo. That's very classy!
 

Hello Medy lin, welcome to MSW. Those are very nice looking models. It is good to see modern subjects, please show us some more of your work.
 
Regards,
Bruce

Hi, this is Medy lin, I am ship model bulider in China, I make the yacht ship model, working ship model etc.
 
I am so happy to here, nice to meet you.
 

Marvelous thanks Toni that makes it much clearer.
Chris

Also are you reading that the Garboard plank is an even taper from stern to stem,
or do you think it is mainly parallel and just widens at the stern and tapers at the bow?
 
BTW I hope all is well up there and you are coping with covid 19 ok.
Hooroo Chris

Good evening to all
Working my way through this model and finding it very enjoyable.
But can someone explain to me how and why the garboard plank has the hook down up to the stern post?
Not registering in my brain.
thanks Chris

Still can't see why they want them, card details name and address seems to be good enough anywhere else.
They will have my money, why does a Spanish bureaucracy need passport/id numbers.
Maybe in your case collecting an insurance payout is fair enough, but i would be sending a small
amount of money in. Wouldn't be getting mine anyway, not going to buy anymore AL kits.
Hooroo Chris

Moving on from chain plates I have made a start on the bowsprit 
The various cleats and bee are in position.
The jack staff complete with block attached
The ship at a glance of progress.
Happy with the outcome so far.

Thanks Chris and Scott - that's really helpful.
Scott did you remove the nails holding the deck to the false keel too, or were these nailed home?

I removed all of the nails. I never leave any nails. I need the glue has dried nails are no longer needed  sorry for the late reply.

I will do my best to explain.  As you go aft, the angle of the garboard relative to the keel diminishes from almost 90 degrees at the dead flat to zero at the deadwood. The "notch" represents that transition point.  The photo in the manual is exaggerated.  This is a picture of the area in question.  The transition is in blue.  Omitting it is OK too.. 
The shape of the garboard is different on every ship and depends on the hull shape.  On this hull, the width of center part of the garboard does not change much.
 
 

 
 
 

That's a point what I'm utmost curious. In my case, I read the next steps, and checked the length of each frames and estimated heights how all the planks will go including garboard. I would say that same width planks will be the best looking except the garboard. Good luck! Please ignore the unclear part. I'm not sure the part, and I have no clues like the above pictures. Someone will leave a correct answer soon.
 
Also, I hope you and all people who read this are healthy.

Also are you reading that the Garboard plank is an even taper from stern to stem,
or do you think it is mainly parallel and just widens at the stern and tapers at the bow?
 
BTW I hope all is well up there and you are coping with covid 19 ok.
Hooroo Chris

Good evening to all
Working my way through this model and finding it very enjoyable.
But can someone explain to me how and why the garboard plank has the hook down up to the stern post?
Not registering in my brain.
thanks Chris