aviaamator

Thanks, druxey and Mark P, I think we have resolved how this complex junction is managed. The Bellona sheer drawing shows a larger radius curve at the lower, aft corner of the wale, and from the way things are lining up on the hull, I think it is because of the natural curve of the plank immediately below the wale. At least that is how it seems to be emerging as I try to fair these pieces.
 
druxey, I see your wale does tuck under at the lowest, aft corner; this is reassuring, because mine really looks like it wants to tuck under. Mark P's image shows a wale more straight up and down. I am sure this has entirely to do with the particular geometries of the under body for each ship.
 
The famous architect Lou Kahn once asked, "what do you want, brick?", to determine how to use it according to its own inherent nature. I would apply this to wales at this point: "wale, how do you want to follow the natural lines of your hull?" Apologies for weird thinking...
 
And by the way, beautiful model of the Resolution, druxey!
 
Mark

That 'thickened plank' you see under and on the wale was additional girdling that was applied to Resolution when she was fitted for the Navy in 1772-3. Even though she was a boxy collier, I suppose a question of her stability arose. You can see this feature better in the starboard broadside view.

just a small reminder we're still alive and kicking. rigging phase draws ever nearer...:-))
 

I just couldn't resist.  does this mean I'm officially hooked on ship building?
 
 

Hello gentlemen and thank you for the comments and "likes" !

The work continues ... Some pictures :
















See you next time !

Patrick

I have just found your Pandora building blog. That is amazing, fantastic and detailed. I've watched it with bated breath! Probably, in the nearest future I will build HMS Enterprize, which is the same class as Pandora.

 
Best regards,
Rafal

Very fine work!

Why am I not surprised that your sails are as perfect as the rest of your model? Lovely work.

Hi Keith - as an Aussie this made me smile - Melbourne (even this far south of the equator) often gets to high 30s and even 40s on occasion
 
Very nice work with your mill - I just wish I had your tooling skills as there are so many jigs I wish to make.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Amalio - thank you for sharing how you prepare your wood.  I, like I’m sure many others, find your insights valuable.
 
Best regards,
John

Well another month passed and some holidays in between and a bad eye infection thatkept me from working on the ship. But we still had some progress.
I found a discrepancy on the gunports. Both side the same. So I decided to first correct that and then to fix the stern and the missing frames to the stern.
After that I intend to start the hull planking upwards.

I know the white line of the (Rahout??) is not correct but its on purpose to get the correct lining for the frames. Once the frames are ok I will return to the correct line.


Have a nice weekend all.
 
 

Hello,

until the etched parts arrive, I make hooks for the rigging and blocks.
These hooks are reproduced with brass castings.

Thank you Mark.
 
Today the temperature outside was 25 deg c (77 deg f). If felt hot but  fortunately the workshop only got to a comfortable 16 deg c.
 
I reached a bit of a milestone in the build.
I made the carriage lock for the sliding plate and attached it to the plate with 2 bolts (the 2 smaller holes). The locking handle has still to be made and uses the larger centre hole.
 


With the lock attached I was able to bolt the bearing housing to the sliding plate. 

I was then able to assemble the milling head on to the runners.
 
The leadscrew and nut were then assembled.
 
Finally I have something that starts to look like a mill. The head now moves smoothly and securely in response to the turning of the leadscrew - very satisfying.
 

I took a couple of further shots to show maximum and minimum elevation.
 

 
 

Beautiful!

Only very brave people could fly these planes! Class work!

Russian proverb: seven times measure - cut once...

On the frame you can see the seams from the casting, I would clean them. And work first-class!

Something I was missing to complete happiness?! Two slots to install snap!!! I want to add my idea of strength is never too much! Cast iron rules!

That is some incredible machine work being done with some very close tolerances, Keith.  Nothing but respect here. 

Lovely day here - bright sunny and 24 deg centigrade, only 2 weeks ago I was walking in snow - thats British weather for you.
 
More progress - the spindle is now done.
 
The spindle as removed from the router had bearings at the extreme ends:- The spindle had been machined so that both bearings were press fits (and as a consequence took some getting off). I used the lathe tailstock as a press to replace the lower (chuck end) bearing

The distance between bearings was circa 6 inch. I wanted the bearings on the mill spindle to be circa 3 inch apart so I needed to turn down the shaft. Easier said than done as the shaft turned out to be as tough as old boots. My preferred HSS tools struggled to cut it and I was forced to press my TCT tools into action. Even then it was a slow process requiring plenty of cutting fluid. Anyway some time later:-

The outer races of the 2 bearings are clamped axially in the bearing block and the inner race of the lower (chuck end) bearing is rigidly clamped to the spindle. Consequently the newly machined seat for the upper bearing needed to be a sliding fit. The shoulder on the shaft is about .010 short to allow for the expansion of the spindle relative to the bearing housing.


The spindle / bearings were then mounted in  the housing and the chuck was replaced. The chuck is treaded such that the action of the cutter is to  tighten it on to the spindle. The spindle shaft sticking out of the the top of the bearing housing will be used to mount drive pulleys - currently I think 3 pulleys.

The spindle feels nicely tight with no unwanted movement.
 
I next needed to make the carriage lock for the vertical slide. This will be bolted to the slide plate and will clamp round the right hand slider bar.  Three more holes were drilled in the slider plate and the block for the clamp was cut from 2" x 1" bar.

The final operation on the slide plate was to machine and tap holes in the upper left hand edge to take the mounting for the motor (yet to be designed). Fortunately I think that is the end of machining on the sliding plate, it is already looking a bit like a Swiss cheese.

I also mounted the boss on the back of the slide plate that attaches to the leads crew nut. The leads screw nut is fastened in place by the grub screw in the end which via a taper pushes out the pin on outside diameter. this clamps the lead screw into the bore - see phot.

 

Something I was missing to complete happiness?! Two slots to install snap!!! I want to add my idea of strength is never too much! Cast iron rules!

Something I was missing to complete happiness?! Two slots to install snap!!! I want to add my idea of strength is never too much! Cast iron rules!

So here goes with a little more progress.
 
The bearing houses stands off the sliding plate by 2 inches. A 2"x2"x1" piece of aluminium was cut from bar and the ends machined square. 

The bearing housing is drilled and tapped (M8) to take the bolts that will secure it and the stand off to the sliding plate.

In the previous photo the bearing housing is held against the mill table by the black clamp while the side clamping is achieved through the bar with 5 horizontal cap bolts. I made this some time back and find it very useful.
 
A recess is cut in the bearing housing to take the stand off. The set up means that the recess is parallel with the axis of the housing. The fit of the stand off into the housing has to be good to make sure that the housing axis is parallel with the stand off. 
The quality of the fit is illustrated in the next photo where the housing is suspended from the stand off by friction alone.
 
A better view of the joint can be seen in the next photo.

I needed bearing retaining plates for either end of the bearing housing, these were cut from 0.1" aluminium plate. 

The next step was to create the cut out and holes for attaching the stand off to the sliding plate.

This was virtually a repeat of the operations to connect the stand off to the bearing housing.

And once again I did the friction suspension test to demonstrate the fit.

The next photo shows all 3 parts assembled and held together by friction.

Thats it for the present. Tomorrow I am going to have a go at machining up the spindle and mounting it in the bearing housing.

Some advice please viewers.
 
The undercarriage on this plane was formed like a forth wing. On the model it is made of ribs like a wing and thin covered with very thin sheet metal.
 
In view of the fact that I am half covering this model should I have cover this as well or do it all as per the pictures on the box ?
 
 

The top wing is installed - what a fight that was trying to line up with the spars and glue them - it is covered, rigged and painted.
 
Next step is the undercarriage