aviaamator

Thanks all,  A display case seems to be an issue with some.  I believe the glass  (if you use glass) is the biggest issue and the biggest cost.  The case as shown cost about $45 in materials and $250 for the glass. All told, it took a week to build (mostly waiting on glue and stain to dry).  After spending 2 + years doing a model, protect and display it properly.

Maury

Very nicely finished and displayed model Maury; she looks great.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Not American, but the right era and size: search Schank sliding keel on the RMG web site under 'Collections'. There are several pages of plans of vessels as well as the raising/lowering mechanisms. An example is here:

Congratulations on a lovely build and very interesting vessel Maury!

Congratulations on sweet build, Maury  And she has a lovely home to sit in.

Mark - given your comment you may find the moveable end stop interesting.
 
A couple of months ago I refurbished the daughters bathroom and amongst other things recovered the following:-

The bar is the handle from a mixer tap and the ball with shaft is the end of a wall mounted toilet roll holder.
 
I made a clamping ring from 1" bar - bored to have a close fit on the runners and drilled and tapped to take the end of the mixer tap handle (M8).

The ball shaft was threaded and the handle was bored and tapped to take it. The end of the handle was removed and returned to the rainy day bin.

Recycling can be very satisfying.
 
 

Keith, 
Your last post just points out that we guys have a reason for saving "stuff" that the Admiral thinks should be binned.   I'm printing it out just in case.....

Thank you I'll bear it in mind as an option.
 
A bit more progress:-
 
I needed a stop to limit the lower position of the bearing plate. Without a stop the plate would fall off the end of the vertical leadscrew. I used an aluminium tube (from a broken tripod) with end collars machined accurately to fit over one of the running bars. I am also going to add a moveable end stop to the bar to allow me to preset repeatable depths of cut.

I decided to tidy the lead screw bearing casting, the paintwork was a bit battered so I removed it with the grinder wire wheel.

The casting was masked up and given a couple of coats of primer.

I needed to mount the casting on the top plate. This involved establishing the relative positions of the 3 holes (central large hole and 2 smaller holes). By various (not too precise) means I measured the pitch of the smaller holes as 1.994". The large hole is not on the same axis as the smaller holes and measurement, addition and subtraction give me a displacement of .194". Not withstanding the measurement I reasoned the original designer wouldn't have chosen such obscure measurement and guessed that the actual measurements were 2" and 0.2". So this is what I used for machining the mating top plate. The smaller holes were drilled and tapped and the central hole was bored accurately to 0.750" to take the boss on the casting.

Fortunately everything lined up.

I also made the boss for the back of the bearing plate. This is required to mount the leadscrew nut.

On a different subject and in parallel I decided my scrap bin had enough parts for me to join the Michael Mott 3rd hand club.

The origins of the parts are:-
 

 

Beautiful model! Well done!

Matti! I just found this blog! And I am very pleased with Your work! I'd expect nothing less from You! Quite well!

Very neat work! Nice to look at!

Only very brave people could fly these planes! Class work!

Only very brave people could fly these planes! Class work!

Only very brave people could fly these planes! Class work!

Hello Albert, Nils and Aviaamator. I am very glad that you are interested in my blog and like it. Also thank you for all the likes as well, I appreciate them a lot too.
Nils, concerning the lifeboats, my first idea was to build them with plank on bulkhead method, but because there are four of them, it would have ment a lot of work. So finally I decided to carve them from solid balsa, and because they are covered with tarpaulin, there is no need to show the inner parts. I have started to work with them already, and it seems that this continues very fast. The only problem is to show the clinker hull clean enough.
Aviaamator, I am very glad that you are following my work and like it. I appreciate also your skills with your build and workshop machinery, like the milling machine that you have built. That could never have been made by me.

Beautiful work.

Keith! I'm using The Altivar 312 speed controller. 1f220-3f220. 

Matti! I just found this blog! And I am very pleased with Your work! I'd expect nothing less from You! Quite well!

For some time he was not engaged in the construction of the model, because it is impossible to remain indifferent when people die in the fire, small children... There are no more words, only work helps to distract a little from this tragedy. I wish everyone good health!!!

Keith! I'm using The Altivar 312 speed controller. 1f220-3f220. 

And then what????!!!!! ( to make a milling machine-need a milling machine!)  In the photo my homemade milling machine.

Only very brave people could fly these planes! Class work!

Beautiful model! Well done!

Small update for bridge equipment, a compass, telegraf and ship`s bell. All turned of Sikablock, airbrushed first with gloss black, and when dry, airbrushed with Alclad`s polished brass.
Compass and bell under construction. Pedestal for compass milled octagonal.

 
 
 
Components installed on the bridge. Dials for telegraf drawn with Corel Draw and printed on paper.


 

Fantastic job on steering gear and light. Very impressive.
 
What is silkablock and where do you get it?