Roger Pellett

While I don’t doubt that the Archimedes drills are not intended for use with standard twist drills for the reasons given by Wefalk, I have not had a problem using small wire sized twist drills in mine to drill hard woods like pear and box.  I have also used it to drill holes in brass.  In all cases, holes drilled have been thin materials where the drill bit does not bind.
 
Roger
 
 

Cold that have been the mass market Admiralty model?  The Eighteenth Century equivalent of the priceless models now offered on EBay?😁

I am happy to defer to others who might like to have the book as possible future modeling projects do not include Golden Hinde.  If, however, no one else wants It, I would be happy to have it $5.00 s&h.
 
Thanks for offering this
 
Roger
 
 

I was given this kit as a Christmas present in 1964.  It is the 1 :144 version.  It is the only kit that I ever built.  Although fine details do not stand up to close scrutiny, it looks great in its case sitting on top of my bookcase.
 
William H. Webb’s folio of plains, published in their entirety in a 1990
issue of the Nautical Research Journal includes a detailed drawing of a nearly identical vessel named America, sold to the Russians.  It could be used to add detail to this nice kit.
 
Roger

I was given this kit as a Christmas present in 1964.  It is the 1 :144 version.  It is the only kit that I ever built.  Although fine details do not stand up to close scrutiny, it looks great in its case sitting on top of my bookcase.
 
William H. Webb’s folio of plains, published in their entirety in a 1990
issue of the Nautical Research Journal includes a detailed drawing of a nearly identical vessel named America, sold to the Russians.  It could be used to add detail to this nice kit.
 
Roger

Thank You Druxey and Keith.
 
At the risk of boring everyone I am proceeding with the mast fittings.
 
Starting with the brackets for the main mast gooseneck. 2 brackets are mounted on separate bands to form the attachment points for the hinge. These were machined from .312" square section bar using end mills.
 

 

 
The brackets were rounded using a file. The hole in the front edge takes a location spigot.
 

 
 
 

 
They were then soldered in place.  Small lugs were also attached to simulate the flanges on the band.
 

 

 
The equivalent fitting on the fore mast has a horizontal axis for the hinge unlike the main mast which is vertical. It isn't obvious why the main and fore masts are different in this respect but interestingly the same discrepancy was also a feature of Altair. Does anyone know why this is so?
 
Again the bracket was machined from .312" square bar using end mills and a bit of filing.
 
 
 

 
I then went on to make and mount the mast bracket for the spinnaker boom.
 

 

 

 
I then moved up to the brackets for attaching the top masts. These are quite indistinct on photographs but they seem to be square externally. See arrow.
 

 
I made these from .5" x .125" brass rectangular section bar (more end milling).
 

 

 
Because of the taper on the masts the hole to curved edge web distance has to be different thicknesses  for the lower and upper brackets. This is necessary to make the axis of the top mast parallel with the axis of the lower mast. You can just about see the difference in the above photo. The two pairs are slightly different in size matching the difference in diameters of the main and fore masts.
 
The next photo shows the brackets with their matching bands.
 

 
Once again the parts have location spigots as seen in the next photo with the parts assembled ready for soldering.
 

 
With the brackets soldered they were test fitted to the mast with a steel bar representing the upper mast.
 

 
The workshop is starting to feel a bit colder - 10c (50f) today. I was feeling a bit cold after 4 hours. I may need to break out a second jumper.
 
 

Just a quick update. More work on the superstructure and then start to work on the trim. Some weights are fixed in the hull, as its tricky to grt to some parts. But anx „ses trials“ will have to wait until 2022. 
regards sascha
 

Thanks Druxey!
I have now completed my paper templates... here's how:
 
First I extended the frame locations up onto a clear area of tracing paper and drew a second set of waterlines, creating a new template aligned with the spine pattern. This can be seen in the photo on the previous post. For the aft half of the ship I will need additional frames at the aft end of the hold and fore and aft ends of the rudder well. I used my spine pattern to add these extra locations onto my new template as 5A, 9A, and 10A. The extra frame locations also need to be drawn onto the original 1927 lines drawing so their shapes can be lofted. Even though my drawing is a copy of the original I used pencil to preserve it.
 
I used my dividers to loft the breadth of each frame at each waterline from the lines drawing onto the template, as well as the distances to keel and deck. Then I completed each pattern using French curves, including the deck camber which is given on the drawing.
 
The first photo below shows the completed templates for the forward half of the ship. Extra frames 2A and 2B at the fo’c’s’le break and forward end of the hold are shown, as is the foremast. The frames in way of the hold are hollowed out to match the thicknesses of the hull and deck, and frame #4 is cut back where the hatch will be framed in.
 
The frame templates nest into each other because they are aligned with the spine. This alignment lets me verify the sheer lines on my template and I think this outweighs the clutter. I did erase most of the waterlines for clarity.
 
The next picture shows the fore and aft templates together, and the mainmast has been added. Note that the fore and aft frame waterlines were drawn different distances above the spine pattern, something I would correct if I use this method again. Keen eyes will note an extra line on frame #10, this frame will be cut back to create the rudder well.
 
The mainmast was removed in 1944 when St. Roch’s rig was changed to a ketch, so the museum plans I have do not show it. James Delgado’s book includes a copy of the 1928 hull profile drawing that shows the mainmast. This is too small for accurate scaling, but the hull frames are shown, and their dimensions and spacing are known measurements. I counted the number of frames and spaces between the masts and transferred that dimension onto my spine template. The result matches my historic photos, and I am confident I am within 3 scale inches (1/16”) of where the mast should be.
 
Now I am ready to transfer my patterns onto plywood and cut them out!

Cold that have been the mass market Admiralty model?  The Eighteenth Century equivalent of the priceless models now offered on EBay?😁

Just to add another twist to " Admiralty " ( Navy Board ) style.
 
I recall seeing a number of these at the NMM:
 

 
 
 
The text in part:
 
 
I don't recall ever seeing a build here, where the spaces between frames were painted onto a solid hull.
 
 
 

Valeriy,
 
They will just be imitation gears- deck winches, cargo winches, and gears for turning vowel ventilators.
 
That guy’s fixture is really clever.  I have a large heavy gauge aluminum angle. I’m going to use it to make a knurling fixture that mounts on the cross slide of my lathe; similar to the one shown in the Sherline catalog.

I agree with Mark.  The Master Shipwrights’ Secrets is a wonderful book.  It is particularly useful for anyone interested in learning the “nuts and bolts” of designing, or as they would have said in the 1600’s, modeling a Seventeenth Century ship.
 
Roger

Old shipbuilding and seamanship texts often had oversized drawings that folded out or were included in an envelope attached to the book cover or even as a separate volume.  In scanning the book for reproduction the person doing the work often doesn’t bother to unfold the drawings, or leaves them out entirely.
 
The University of Michigan has one of the largest academic  libraries in the US, and since they have taught Naval Architecture and Marine Engineering since the late 1800’s their library includes many books of interest to us.  They were also one of the first US Universities to begin to digitize their collection.  I have bought two books from them:  an 1866 US Navy Ordnance Manual and a Naval Architecture text from the same era.  Both were of far better quality than the usual imported offerings,  and I will continue to buy more, but even these each omitted a drawing.
 
Roger

There is a huge difference between science, academic engineering, and practical engineering.  For example, science describes  the behavior of materials under tensile loads, academic engineering might teach advanced analysis methods for determining the strength of wires twisted together and the practical engineer who will understand the theory describing the strength of wire rope, selects the actual wire rope to be used from a manufacture’s catalog. 
 
The amount of high end analysis performed also depends on the application. A Naval Architect designing a mass produced day sailer can avoid expensive engineering analysis by over designing, as the slight loss in performance is less likely to be as important as the final cost of the boat.  On the other hand, when designing an America’s Cup Yacht, budgets usually include state-of-the-art engineering analysis as performance is all important.
 
Loading on sails is completely dependent on rig.  The square rig is intended for downwind or reaching performance so loading is mostly direct impingement of wind on the sail cloth.  The sail fails when the fabric tears; The sail blows out.  Modern sailboat rigs are designed for optimal upwind performance.  In this case the sail acts as an airfoil and eventually the sail cloth stretches to the point where the sail loses its shape and must be replaced.  That’s why sails on new high performance racing yachts are often black.  The cloth fibers are Kevlar.
 
Roger

Old shipbuilding and seamanship texts often had oversized drawings that folded out or were included in an envelope attached to the book cover or even as a separate volume.  In scanning the book for reproduction the person doing the work often doesn’t bother to unfold the drawings, or leaves them out entirely.
 
The University of Michigan has one of the largest academic  libraries in the US, and since they have taught Naval Architecture and Marine Engineering since the late 1800’s their library includes many books of interest to us.  They were also one of the first US Universities to begin to digitize their collection.  I have bought two books from them:  an 1866 US Navy Ordnance Manual and a Naval Architecture text from the same era.  Both were of far better quality than the usual imported offerings,  and I will continue to buy more, but even these each omitted a drawing.
 
Roger

Old shipbuilding and seamanship texts often had oversized drawings that folded out or were included in an envelope attached to the book cover or even as a separate volume.  In scanning the book for reproduction the person doing the work often doesn’t bother to unfold the drawings, or leaves them out entirely.
 
The University of Michigan has one of the largest academic  libraries in the US, and since they have taught Naval Architecture and Marine Engineering since the late 1800’s their library includes many books of interest to us.  They were also one of the first US Universities to begin to digitize their collection.  I have bought two books from them:  an 1866 US Navy Ordnance Manual and a Naval Architecture text from the same era.  Both were of far better quality than the usual imported offerings,  and I will continue to buy more, but even these each omitted a drawing.
 
Roger

Feathermerchant:
 
I just reread Dwight Boyer’s account of the sinking of the Margaret Olwill.   People that don’t live near the Lakes, may not realize that these ordinary Lake Freighters often carried passengers; family members of crews, owners and their families, important customers, and guests of all of the above.  The Benjamin Noble had a large owner’s suite in her forward. Deckhouse.  A shipwreck with loss of life is always a tragedy but even more so when these “civilians” are killed.
 
In the very early 1890’s the Western Reserve, one of the first steel ships on the Lakes sank on Lake Superior during an August storm.  There was only one survivor.  Unfortunately the ship’s owner, Peter Minch, was on board with his entire family plus guests.  The Minch Family was from Vermilion, Ohio.
 

The mast step holds also the goose neck fitting.
Sawing a piece of brass plate for the fitting.

The goose neck fitting is attached to the mast step with four heavy screws. Imitating those screws:
-Drilling four screw holes and knocking a brass nail in each of them.

- Cutting the nails and filing them flat.

 

- Sawing a (screwdriver)groove in each of the screws.

- Soldering a piece of brass pipe on it as goose beck holder.

 

The goose neck fitting attached to the step of the mast (The pale piece of wood at the bottom is a temporary spacer).

In front of the mast stand bits. They consist of a fork shaped piece of ebony.

Filing the heads of the bits

 

The bits are placed against the second forward deck beam.

To allow the mast to tilt freely from vertical to horizontal position, the lower part must be able to pass through the deck. An opening is provided for this in the foredeck.
The carlings for the opening:

Round the opening come small coamings. A bit hard to see on the picture.

Just behind the mast stand two sheet bits with each thre sheaves to guide the sheets to the holes in the front of the cockpit coaming.
I laminate the bits from three thin ebony slats to obtain a straight groove for the sheaves

The cap of the sheet bits also contains two sheaves and must be folded into shape.

 

 

 

The arrangement of mast step and bits.

The whole will not yet glued definitively in the hull at this stage.
 
Thank you very much for reading this log, for your likes and for your comments.
 
Till next week!
 

Beat me to it while I was compiling my response after seeing nobody had responded.
 
There ought to be a red button with a buzzer we could hit when we know the answer, that would block the other contestants from answering and determine who had the right answer first,  like on the TV game shows.  

Garrett Wade tools $11.50

I call that an Archimedes screw drill.  I bought mine many years ago (1980’s) from a jewelry tool supplier that came to an NRG Conference.  I suspect that you might find one on EBay under jewelers or watchmakers tools.
 
Also check suppliers of new tools for jewelers. Rio Grand comes to mind.  
 
Roger

As requested, a brief description of the Hahn Method:
 
This method was an outgrowth of Charles Davis’s Built Up Ship Model Book and is based on an assumption, not valid for all real ships.  The assumption was that real wooden ships were built with two layer (sistered) frames, regularly spaced, known as “room and space.”
 
Hahn also had access to a full sized table saw (8in) and plenty of lumber.  As a professional model maker, he continued to use his method even after switching to more expensive Boxwood.  He was not limited to buying precut sheet stock from others.
 
The Method:
 
1.  On the sheer view of the lines drawing draw a straight datum line above the highest point of the vessel’s sheer.  The datum should be perpendicular to the vertical stations on the sheer view.  Project this same datum, at the same height above the top of the body plan.
 
2.  On the body plan extend the top of each station (section) vertically until it intersects with the datum.  These vertical extensions will be parallel to the body plan centerline.
 
3.  Loft and vertically extend per 2, additional body plan sections as needed to satisfy room and space.
 
4.  Plot the point where each body plan section extension from 2 and 3 meets the datum on a plan view.  Pass a curve through these points.  Glue the drawing to a flat board and cut out the shape bounded by the curve.  You will use the area outside of the curve.
 
5.  Eyeball the body plan sections and draw standard oversized patterns for the the frames represented for the lofted body plan sections in 2 and  3.  These patterns allow the rough frames to be made from  straight pieces of framing material with mitered joints between sections.  Each rough framing section is constructed in two layers glued face to face.  The mitered butt joints in the top layer should be staggered from those on the bottom layer.
 
6.  Rubber cement a copy of each lofted frame onto the rough framing section.  Cut out the finished frame.
 
7.  Use the board with the cut out plan view to build a jig to hold the cut out frame sections in the upright position with the frame extensions flush with the bottom of the jig.
 
8.  Glue the frames into the jig.  You will be building the model upside down.
 
9.  Add keel, stem, stern, etc.  Fair framing, and stabilize hull structure with planking.
 
10.  Cut hull structure from jig along sheer line.
 
 
As Jaager has posted,  an investment in NRG’s Shop Notes is well worth the $35 cost and includes a complete description by Hahn of his method along with drawings to build a model.  He has done all of the lofting for you.
 
Besides, you support NRG and the forum.
 
Roger
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Garrett Wade tools $11.50

I call that an Archimedes screw drill.  I bought mine many years ago (1980’s) from a jewelry tool supplier that came to an NRG Conference.  I suspect that you might find one on EBay under jewelers or watchmakers tools.
 
Also check suppliers of new tools for jewelers. Rio Grand comes to mind.  
 
Roger

I call that an Archimedes screw drill.  I bought mine many years ago (1980’s) from a jewelry tool supplier that came to an NRG Conference.  I suspect that you might find one on EBay under jewelers or watchmakers tools.
 
Also check suppliers of new tools for jewelers. Rio Grand comes to mind.  
 
Roger