
GrantGoodale
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GrantGoodale reacted to GDM67 in HMS Naiad 1797 by GDM67 - 1:60 - using Ed Tosti Books
347 hours into the journey with just 13 frames to go. While I have enjoyed the framing portion of this build, I am looking forward to a change of pace. Shown here are how things look to this point. Note the template continues to be on target. One challenge that I have continuously had with this build is the sided dimensions of the frames. The glue joints over time have added to this overall dimension. While only a few hundredths per frame, that can really add up when you do 90 of them. On my final 9 frames, I need to claim back 1/8th of an inch. This may not sound like much, but its critical to keep everything within spec. Otherwise, the gun ports and other openings will be off.
After the final timbers are placed, I will be adding a few more cross spallings before removing the ship from the board. I will then spend considerable time fairing the overall hull. I will then sit on the front porch where it is shaded, but bright and go over each frame - futtock by futtock, chock by chock to get them smooth and well aligned. After that, I will place the chock bolts, etc.
Best, G
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GrantGoodale reacted to Homebrew in USS Kearsarge by Homebrew - Scientific Models - Scale 1:90
Hi,
I purchased this model on ebay about 10 years ago and started the build in 2007. I worked on it regularly till work got too busy during the year.
Now I want to finish it.
There are a few broken pieces to fix and reattach, otherwise i is in great condition.
It looks like I was working on the rigging when I left her in drydock.
Cheers
Mark
from Tasmania
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GrantGoodale got a reaction from Elijah in Armed Virginia Sloop by captgino - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1/48
Never underestimate the power of wood filler and sanding
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GrantGoodale got a reaction from dgbot in Armed Virginia Sloop by captgino - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1/48
Never underestimate the power of wood filler and sanding
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GrantGoodale got a reaction from WackoWolf in Armed Virginia Sloop by captgino - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1/48
Never underestimate the power of wood filler and sanding
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GrantGoodale reacted to captgino in Armed Virginia Sloop by captgino - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1/48
So I pushed forward and continue planking. Tough job!!
I have a lot to learn. I am not super pleased with the result so far. Wood filler will have to help a bit.
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GrantGoodale reacted to catopower in HMS Mercury by catopower - Shipyard - 1/96 scale - CARD
Welcome everyone! You'll have to be patient with this one in particular since it's very much a secondary project. But, I'll try to make periodic progress on it to keep it moving forward so you won't forget about it.
Tonight, I sat down and worked on the bulkhead supports. These particular pieces look like inverted deck clamps and seem to be something of a model kit anomaly. The only references I could find that showed these a set of plans by the same company. Those plans are for the Spanish warship Santa Leocadia. Interestingly enough, I have another set of plans from the same company, but of another English frigate, and the plans show no such part.
I am surmising that the part is the equivalent of bulkhead extensions in a wooden kit. They're needed to help shape the hull and to support the bulwarks planking, but they don't necessarily exist in real life. No matter. These are mostly hidden below the spar deck.
I have to make several of these and it does take a bit of time. These are a little trickier than many other parts because of the inside curve that has to be carefully cut. Here's the process for building the part (similar process for all parts).
The entire piece has to be about 2 mm thick. What I do is to then glue the main pieces onto card stock to make each half 1 mm thick. I use digital calipers regularly with paper model work.
The first cuts I make using a scalpel or scissors. Note that an Xacto blade is really too thick for this work. A razor blade may be the best for cutting paper, but not entirely convenient. A scalpel is somewhere in between. Nice this is that you can buy a box of 100 blades, with blades coming individually packaged, for $5 with a basic handle. I bought a handle with a molded plastic grip on Amazon where I also bought the blades.
Important thing with cutting paper with a knife, you need a cutting mat to work on, and you want to make multiple passes without trying to cut through in one pass.
below, I made the initial cuts with a pair of sharp scissors along the easy, relatively straight lines. The inner curves require more careful work.
Tight turns require multiple short cuts. One thing that is useful is, after glueing the two pieces together, wick some thin CA into the cardboard. That will make it work like plastic and you can sand that inside curve smooth with a piece of rolled sandpaper.
Finally, some spacer pieces are built-up, cut and added. The completed pieces glued into place on the deck. One thing that is very confusing is that there is a difference between the port and starboard side pieces, yet the parts all have the same part number, and there is no indication that I can find to explain which side the longer piece goes on. In fact, all of these bulkhead supports are the same way. You can see what I'm talking about in the second photo above.
Finally, I thought I'd include a couple photos to show what the instructions look like.
One pair down, another 4 pairs to go...
Clare
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GrantGoodale reacted to catopower in HMS Mercury by catopower - Shipyard - 1/96 scale - CARD
Having completed HMS Alert, which is now safely in a case, I'm left with a kind of paper emptiness...
I have plenty of projects, but I'm so accustomed to having a paper model project in the works that it just didn't seem right to not have one now. So, I've taken on the 28-gun Enterprize-class 6th rate frigate HMS Mercury.
Shipyard (Vessel) makes 2 versions of HMS Mercury. One is a 1/72-scale boxed kit with laser-cut parts and all the fittings, brass cannons, resin figurehead, wooden spars, cloth sails, plus paints, brush and rigging line, etc. However, that version is a lot pricier than the simple 1/96-scale paper model where you have to cut everything out yourself.
I got the latter from Ages of Sail for around $40. The kit includes pre-printed parts that you have to cut out, plus laser-cut framework that makes hull-construction very quick and accurate.
I've actually had this kit for quite a while, probably at least a year or more. I also started it some time ago so I would have a hull that illustrates how these kits go together. I was going to just do a partial start and give it to Ages of Sail as a demo model. But, that never happened.
As I got further along on the Alert, I thought about how interesting a larger ship might be. Also, knowing the complexities of a 3-masted square rigger, I thought I might just build this as a kind of admiralty style model. Possibly building a launch ways and adding pole masts for the launching flags. In fact, right now, that's my plan unless I eventually change my mind and decide to rig this model.
The kit includes some 15 pages of printed parts, the laser cut framework, several sheets of drawings and templates, including patterns for making sails. Printed parts are included for two different color schemes. The completed, fully rigged model, measures about 26" long. The hull itself is just about 16" long.
I put the hull framework together many months ago. It goes together very easily and takes very little time.
More recently, I started putting on the first layer, which basically turns the model into a hollow solid hull model. As you can see, I also added the deck. The parquet floor is a separate piece which sits on top of the wood-pattern floor.
Lastly, over this past weekend, I wanted a distraction, so I started working on the cabin partitions. I have to say that this is one advantage that these paper models have over their wood counterparts – there is much more internal arrangement provided in these kits. It even includes furniture for the great cabin.
So, there you have it. Another paper model begun. As I said earlier, this isn't a priority project, just something I'll tinker with over time. But, like HMS Alert, it may very well get to the point where it takes on a life of its own and demands more of my time to take her to completion.
Clare
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GrantGoodale reacted to Ensign in HMS Victory by Ensign - FINISHED - Caldercraft - Scale 1:72
A short update. The masts are now fitted and the rigging underway. I have decided to work from the Mizzen mast forwards fitting lower shrouds then stays followed by topmast shrouds and stays etc. this way I hope to minimise any difficulties attaching the various lines to the deck.
A point of interest to others building this model, the Caldercraft instructions call for the Mainstay collar to pass between the Bowsprit and Knightheads before passing through the hole in the stem. This is a simplification and requires that the Knightheads be positioned a few millimetres away from the Bowsprit. In point of fact, reference to Longridge and photos of the ship show the Knightheads hard up against the Bowsprit with the Mainstay collar in fact passing through a hole drilled through the Knightheads on either side. I have followed Longridge and ship photos in this and assure you it can be done. I have attached photos of the current state of the build and close inspection of the Knightheads will hopefully illustrate my point.
I used BE's method of making Catharpins, his "cheat" method on his Pegasus build, and it works a treat.
Gary
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GrantGoodale reacted to Ensign in HMS Victory by Ensign - FINISHED - Caldercraft - Scale 1:72
I think I have found a method of rigging Shrouds and Stays which does not cause interference when putting on the snaking to the Main and Fore mast stays. I plan to rig the Mizzen shrouds and stays first then move on to the Main mast shrouds and stays and finally the Fore mast shrouds and stays. Any constructive criticism is welcome.
The yards are completed with their rigging and ready to be fitted at the appropriate time. More photos to follow later.
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GrantGoodale reacted to Old Collingwood in HMS Warspite by Old Collingwood - FINISHED - Academy - 1/350 scale - PLASTIC
Two more updates today folks, I cut the spurnwater parts from the brass fret then dry fitted to check alignment, i applied a small amount of PVA then placed them on both sides, I also fitted some of the brass covers on the deck - same procedure using PVA.
Just the two pics folks.
OC.
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GrantGoodale reacted to Old Collingwood in HMS Warspite by Old Collingwood - FINISHED - Academy - 1/350 scale - PLASTIC
A bit more progress today - i lightly weathered the wood deck section I have fitted so it matches the other sections, this was done with just a diluted black wash then wiped away with a rag, just leaving a bit of detail between the planks, next i cut the waterbreak from the fret and tidied up between the ribs, then i genly thined the profile a bit, after a coat of light grey I glued it down onto the deck.
It will need cleaning up a bit where it meets the deck and the ends trimming, then I will have to deside whether or not to cut for the walk way or just show them as closed, as they were made with two slot in sections.
Here are some pics also showing my work station and new light/magnifier.
OC
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GrantGoodale reacted to mhmtyrl in Çektirme by mhmtyrl - FINISHED - Black Sea Coaster
some more weathering, very close to end...
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GrantGoodale reacted to mhmtyrl in Çektirme by mhmtyrl - FINISHED - Black Sea Coaster
hello everybody
I have made some progress with painting the hull, I used acrylic. I applied double sided tape or masking fluid while weathering. double sided tape application removes some random parts of the paint, when you repaint it with a diluted paint or leave it as it is, then you have a weathered appearence.
in the last picture you see my cat "Köfte" (meatball) examining the art piece and making suggestions
Mehmet
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GrantGoodale reacted to rafine in Granado by rafine - FINISHED - Caldercraft - 1:64
Some further progress on Granado. First, I added the cap rail from the kit and painted it black, leaving the outer edge unpainted and sanded flush to the hull to allow for later mounting of the sheer moldings. I then added the stanchions, kevel cleats, sheave blocks and rough tree rail parts from the kit. All of these were painted black.
After completing that work, I decided to make up the rudder and associated items. The rudder was cut from holly sheet, using the kit part as a template. After shaping the fore edge, I added a sole plate and back piece made from boxwood strip. I then added the pintles, using the PE brass parts from the kit, painted black. Lastly, I added the PE gudgeon parts to the hull.
At this point, I had to suspend work on Granado temporarily. While I was out, a workman in my house managed to severely damage my completed Cheerful. This will require me to re-rig significant portions, as well as redo some other items. I intend to do this before continuing on Granado, although I must admit that the only thing I like less than repairing damage that I have caused is to repair damage caused by others. For those wondering, Cheerful was not yet in a safe display case.
Bob
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GrantGoodale reacted to Jerry in BLUENOSE By Jerry - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
Good afternoon everyone..
I'm sure the next phase of construction, being so repetitive, will not be aas enjoyable as the past work. Making and gluing in place 110 false timber frames doesn't seem like a lot of fun but it does get the hull ready for the deck furniture, and I always enjoy that part of the build. Although I have filled and sanded quite a bit, I'm positive there will be more to do along those lines before the hull is given any coats of finish. The model seems very smooth at this point but there are still some uneven places, some tiny crevices and other ugly bumps to repair and smooth out. I haven't decided if I'm going to brush paint or spray the finish........although, I'm leaning toward the latter. On any event, here are some more photos of the new transom which is the latest place to be almost completed,
Best,
Jerry
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GrantGoodale reacted to Jerry in BLUENOSE By Jerry - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
Hello Everyone..
Well, we're now into August and modelling Bluenose is moving along. The deck is completed and varnished and the extension planks are in place. The stern will be worked on next but in the meantime here are some additional photos of this Bluenose as it sits today.
Best to all,
Jerry
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GrantGoodale reacted to EJ_L in La Couronne by EJ_L - FINISHED - Corel - 1:100 - 1637 Version
Latest update has the tall tower on the port side quarter galley built and the balcony completed. I also went ahead and installed the decorative carvings. I decided to use the metal ones provided by the kit. They are not the greatest looking, but for now they will work. I would like to one day replace them with wooden ones that I carve myself however, as my carving skills are not that great yet it will wait. I figure I can always pop off the metal ones to replace them when I can.
Work is still progressing on the port quarter galley. The small tower is in production and hopefully I can get it done today and start building the center cabin.
Better get back to work!
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GrantGoodale reacted to EJ_L in La Couronne by EJ_L - FINISHED - Corel - 1:100 - 1637 Version
I'm trying to show some more of the in between steps and not just the finished product. Here is one of the port quarter galley towers being test fitted together. I still have some final sanding to do to close out gaps and smooth it up.
I am glad I decided to build these myself. You can see the hexagonal blocks that came with the kit. The instructions call for the window frames to be glued to the surface and the roofs were supposed to be those smooth cones. By building my own walls, cutting out the windows and opening up all the window panes, you can now shine a light into the windows and see inside if you wished. Granted there is nothing to see but you can still do it. The best part of those blocks was using them as a template and support while I glued the new walls together. Helped to hold the correct angles.
I m hoping to make some good progress over the weekend. Would love to get the port side done but that may be too much to hope for. We shall see.
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GrantGoodale reacted to rwiederrich in Great Republic 1853 by rwiederrich - FINISHED - four masted extreme clipper
Well I spent another hour today finishing up the copper plates and dull coating the copper. I placed the hull on her mount temporarily where she will be displayed.
I also posted a few of the room she will live in.
Now I need to focus on deadeye and chainplate location...on the channels.
Rob
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GrantGoodale reacted to rwiederrich in Great Republic 1853 by rwiederrich - FINISHED - four masted extreme clipper
Well I painted the copper metallic and it looks far better in my opinion...more like weathered muntz metal.
Rob
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GrantGoodale reacted to RiverRat in RATTLESNAKE 1780 by RiverRat - Mamoli - 1:64 - Massachusetts privateer
Well! Long time, no sea!
Finally getting back to this. Finished installing the sheave blocks in the bulwarks, except for a little sanding down and touching up/repairing chipped inner planking to do yet. The inner planking is only 0.5mm and I had some delaminating until I settled down and got more careful.
Somewhat of a pain-in-the-@r$e process, 75% happy with how they look, and 100% relieved to get through it!
Here are two typical. A couple better, some not.
Next, after the touching up: thoroughly review the planking tutorials (it's been too long since last time....) and plank the lower hull.
Cheers!
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GrantGoodale reacted to mikiek in US Brig Niagara by mikiek - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64 - First wooden ship build
Question for the group. If the upper tackle in this pic is frapped. What is the bottom one called? Or at the very least how is it done?
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GrantGoodale reacted to mikiek in US Brig Niagara by mikiek - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64 - First wooden ship build
After the tackle blocks are reaved but before they are hooked to the eyebolts, the plan is to pull the line so the blocks are at the appropriate distance from each other. I stuck 2 pieces of thick wire into my mock-up station about as far apart as the tackle blocks will be. I put a small loop in each wire so that I can hook a tackle between them and the wire stretches them taught. Then it's just a matter of applying some glue to the line(s) in between the blocks and then wrapping the excess line around the glue. After the glue dries I just hooked the finished tackle to the gun & bulwark.
That's how I did the samples. It really didn't take more than a minute. The key is getting proper spacing of the blocks before frapping, but that should be the same measurement on each gun. The 2 tackles for running out the gun should be the same measurement. Same for the 2 tackles for lateral adjustment.
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GrantGoodale reacted to Mirabell61 in SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse 1897 by Mirabell61 - FINISHED - scale 1:144 - POF - first German four stacker of the Norddeutscher Lloyd line
Update...
am still building the profiled edge of the boats deck, am pleased with the way the stanchions fit for soldering, it provides a strong hold...
Nils
the profile is done in 3 sections, each about 250 mm long
the small brass brackets will get a drop of CA later on to fasten and hold the boat deck edge
here the lower portion ( 6,5 mm tube ) aft mast is set in, considering its correct rake angle, it rests in the ships "spine" square bar down, just above the keel.
Also some of the porthole sleeves and their "glassing" in one of the deck housings can be seen...
status overall view
drilling the 0,8 mm stanchion holes into the edge profile. A simple little jig (slotted wooden chunk) holds the T-shaped profile for drilling