
GrantGoodale
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GrantGoodale reacted to EdT in Young America 1853 by EdT - FINISHED - extreme clipper
Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 154 – Quarter Davits
It seems like a while since the last post. Progress has been slowed by research, documentation and drafting for the rigging. However, about a week ago the last of the four boats was completed and since then the quarter davits have been made and fitted. The first picture shows the completed 22’ cutter that will be secured to the starboard davits.
The 6 sweeps were made from drawn bamboo flattened at one end.
The quarter davits were secured outside the hull just aft of the main channels. The forward davits were supported by the channels. The aft pair were held by iron brackets. One of these and its bolt is shown in the next picture.
This is a top bracket – longer to account for the inward slope of the sides. The lower brackets are shorter with a hole only in the top. All were made from the brass rectangular section shown in the picture. In the next picture a lower bracket is being installed.
The rails were mortised to fit these. The next picture shows the top end of one of the davits in the lathe after cleanup of the solder and rounding of the top bearing.
The ends were fashioned by the method used for the poop handrail stanchions. The next picture shows one of these shaped.
After cutting to size, this davit was fitted as shown in the next picture.
The next picture shows both starboard davits fitted with their hooks installed.
The last picture shows all four davits.
These will probably be blackened to simulate iron, but I have not decided. They appear black in one of the photos. I will probably put these into storage with the boat until later. There is quite a bit of rigging to be installed along the rails that will best be done with maximum access. The above picture shows a break in the belaying pins that extends almost the length of the boats. Pins forward of the six at the forward end of the space will extend uninterrupted all the way to the cargo opening and virtually all will be used. There were a lot of sails on one of these ships. A half dozen square sails per mast, an equal number of studding sails on the forward masts, plus quite a few fore and aft sails. While I do not intend to install sails, I do plan to install most of their rigging, excluding most of the studding sail rigging and other items like staysail sheets. I expect access to be an issue.
Ed
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GrantGoodale reacted to EdT in Young America 1853 by EdT - FINISHED - extreme clipper
Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 153 – Ship’s Boats 9
Well, time is passing quickly and work on YA’s small boats has been going slowly – much too slowly for someone with my temperament, but the end is in sight. I am sure that many, like me, will be glad to something new after all these small boat pictures. This post should just about do it. In the first picture, the last of the small boats, the 22’ cutter that will later hang from quarter davits, is getting its keelson installed.
Since this boat will be hung upright, the internals will be visible. In the next picture some grating that will be used for a floor under the stern seats is being assembled on a spacing template.
The members of this grating are less than 1½” wide (.020”) on <3” spacing, made from Castelo. The assembled section is shown below, before sizing and framing.
The grating was made, for the most part, as shown in earlier posts, or perhaps in Naiad posts, using the milling machine for precision and in this case to slit the milled strips without damage. The grated flooring can be seen in the next picture where one of the thwarts is being installed.
In the next picture the boat is ready for painting.
The missing wales will be added after both they and the hull are painted. The next picture shows the almost completed boat.
All that remains is to add the lettering, the oars, the rudder and some iron hardware.
I have not been happy with the grated platforms at the helm, seen in earlier posts, so I took the opportunity to replace them with some grating of the smaller size, as shown in the last picture
.
Ed
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GrantGoodale reacted to EdT in Young America 1853 by EdT - FINISHED - extreme clipper
Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 152 – Ship’s Boats 8
I am almost there with the boats and looking forward to getting on with something different. In the last part the frames and keel assembly for the 22’ cutter were fitted to the plug. This boat will hang from quarter davits on the finished model. In the first picture the rabbet if the stem is being roughed out with a V-gouge.
In the next picture the rabbet is being pared out at the stern.
This was followed by some filing and cutting of the rabbet along the keel. The starboard garboard strake is being installed in the next picture.
Additional planking has been installed in the next picture and the last installed strake is being beveled at the stern.
The angle of the bevel becomes more perpendicular to the side at the ends of the boat to allow the lapstraked planking to blend flush at both ends. The planks also need to be tapered to fit fairly and come out right at the top. In the next picture the planking is complete except the the wale strake that will be fitted after painting.
After some cleanup and dressing the planking lines, the boat will be removed from the plug for internal work and finishing. In the meantime the other boats have been completed and one of the longboats is shown chained down to the skid beams in the next picture.
The chains have been fitted with covering to protect the boats. One end of the chain is hooked to an eyebolt and the other is lashed to another eyebolt on the other side. In the next picture the boat on the port side has been secured and wood chocks have been installed on the beams to restrain movement of the boats.
The last picture shows the 25’ cutter temporarily in place and complete except for the rudder hinges.
This boat will be held in storage and secured later after rigging is belayed between it and the rail.
Ed
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GrantGoodale reacted to DocBlake in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style
Thanks, guys...I'm getting there! I spent some time yesterday carving the timberheads. They are made of boxwood for a nice contrast with the black rail. The plans call for 12 : 6 per side. Also, the plans say they should be 3/8" tall. I thought 12 looked too busy, so I decided on 8 total instead. I also went back to Dr. Feldman's book on constructing the original AVS and found that his timberheads were 1/4" tall. I made mine 9/32" tall; sort of a compromise!
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GrantGoodale reacted to DocBlake in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style
I mounted the rudder to the hull. The system used to create the gudgeons and pintles is different from what I've been used two. In my last two rudders, the pintles were short lengths of brass rod, soldered to the brass strap that attached them to the rudder. The gudgeons were likewise brass tubing soldered to the straps attaching them to the hull. This method is different. After cutting the recesses into the rudder to allow the pintles to slip over the gudgeons and into place, the straps are glued in place. The pintles are simply pins pushed into the wood of the rudder. No soldering! The gudgeons are made of little wood semi-circles with a hole drilled in to receive the pintles. They are then painted black. The straps for the gudgeons are just strips of bras glued and nailed to the hull on each side. Again, no soldering!
The rudder has no false keel and is mounted so the bottom edge is about even with the bottom of the keel itself.
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GrantGoodale reacted to DocBlake in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style
I'm starting to prepare the great cabin for framing. The roof deck clamps are in place and the aft-most roof beam has been glued to the transom framing. the problem is that the framing is too long and sticks up above the beam. I used my new Hishika saw to easily saw through the maple frames and remove them. I now need to fit each beam so that the roof (poop deck) sits flush on each and flows smoothly from the bulkhead of the great cabin to the stern. The first photo shows two frames cut, and the others too long. The second shows the Hishika saw cutting the framing, and the third is the final result.
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GrantGoodale reacted to DocBlake in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style
I added the reinforcing bands to the pumps. I'm playing around with adding some furniture and a couple of paintings on the wall of the great cabin. The portrait is stuck up there with double sided tape for the photo.
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GrantGoodale reacted to druxey in Greenwich Hospital barge of 1832 by druxey - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
Well, the sweeps are now fixed in position, after a rare weekend off work. Hopefully I made the right call on displaying them in this way.
I still have the two ensigns to complete and fly on their staffs before calling it quits. I hope you enjoy the pictures.
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GrantGoodale reacted to RGL in SMS Emden by RGL - FINISHED - Revell - 1/350 - PLASTIC
I haven't posted for a while as it has taken forever getting these davits done. The rear deck ones needed some rods so they will not snap off the side of the hull, then some washes to bring out the details. Next will be the ships boats then the rigging for the davits.
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GrantGoodale reacted to RGL in SMS Emden by RGL - FINISHED - Revell - 1/350 - PLASTIC
Finally finished off the masts. I have not tidied up yet but will save that for when I have completed everything. I have now done the flag halyards and the aerials in .01mm thread. I could add more but I think that's enough as it's nerve racking. The top mast has 2 aerial spreaders which I used some 3mm stanchions. the last shot is off the comparison t the Varyag to date.
From a normal distance it has come up OK.
I intend to finish off the deck equipment next, then the railings and individual stanchions before moving n tot he life boats. Maybe in that order.
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GrantGoodale reacted to RGL in SMS Emden by RGL - FINISHED - Revell - 1/350 - PLASTIC
The bulk of the rigging is now done. Lots of clean up to do particularly where the stays meet the deck, but overall it's the best I can do. I now have to add the aerials. I have used two diameter rigging line, the smallest the size of a human hair and just as hard to use but comes up OK.
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GrantGoodale reacted to Mark Pearse in 28' Ranger-type Yacht by Mark Pearse - FINISHED - 1:12
HI everyone, thanks for the interest.
The hull profile has been cut down, & I've started to put in the deck beams & cockpit area supports. The cockpit area has a series of different heights: a scuppers area that is the same as the top of the transom; a bit lower is the seat tops, with a slightly higher curved-top thwart at the front of the cockpit, & lowest the cockpit sole height which is just a little above the waterline. The framing & beams are glue-laminated curved & straight beams, all in Spotted Gum. The sizes are not meant to be to scale but they are probably not far off. It will be lined in 2mm plywood & painted, with clear finished details. I've added a photo that helps show the final layout. One nice detail is the removable timber panels either side of the hatch.
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GrantGoodale reacted to Telp in HM Brig Supply by Telp - Caldercraft - 1:64
Well that's today's efforts completed, back to work tomorrow then a long weekend in London. Found the walnut wood very nice to sand and decided to sort any gaps as I go. An old trick I use to use when I was an aircraft painter was to mix body filler with a small amount of water mixed to a paste then gently fill in any small areas where the planks were not quite square. Captain minion is happy enough for now.
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GrantGoodale reacted to flyer in Yacht America by flyer - FINISHED - Mamoli - scale 1:66 - with some alterations
Build log schooner America
While working on HM Schooner Pickle I started to look out for a next project. As I really did like the simple elegance of the schooner and a friend of mine had long reserved some space in his office for a dust catcher in form of a model ship the decision to build another schooner was taken. This friend has family connections to the US and I always liked the elegant, innovative design of America and so this vessel was chosen. Also the Mamoli kit comes in scale 1/66 which is close enough to 1/64 to make all fittings in this scale available for a bit of kit enhancement. A decade ago I had built Mamolis La Gloire and found the kit of good quality (...for that time - I had never seen a JoTiKa kit yet).
Mamoli seems presently to be out of service but I was lucky to find a kit in a Swiss model shop.
The Kit
The first impression was quite good. A tidy box with cleanly separated parts in various compartments. The quality of the wood is only average but the cast parts look good. The plans seem to cover the whole build although the written instructions are meagre and sometimes a bit difficult to understand. The original is Italian, which I don't speak, but by combining English and German translations (by Google?) and some educated guess I should be able to get the meaning of it.
The coppering
Mamoli uses an ingenious simple way to imitate the coppering of the lower hull with small wooden tiles. The same method was used in Keith Juliers earlier books and looked to be an clever approximation.
However as the excellent copper plates of Victory Models are available I will use them. This asks for some re-planning as 0,5mm strips will be replaced by thin copper. Therefore lower hull and rudder will have to be different.
The skeleton
Keel and frames are of quite soft 3,5mm plywood and need some reworking to fit. The two deck parts equally need a rework but altogether a skeleton is quite easily formed. The slender elegant lines are now visible and I'm definitely hooked - a beautiful design.
Visible is also the that stem and sternpost need to be made as separate new parts with a strength of 5mm. Also the rudder will need a similar replacement.
Some additional wood strips are necessary to cover the lower hull and at the same time I can adjust the deck planking.
dry fit of the skeleton
Pickle's bosun standing on Americas deck is a bit overwhelmed by the sheer size of this modern schooner
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GrantGoodale reacted to Erik W in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Erik W - 1:48 scale
I planked the counter. Since this area will be painted red, I didn't bother running a pencil between the planks to make them stand out. The result being, the 8 planks look like a solid sheet! Since I've gotten pretty good at getting the planks snug against one another, I'm curious if once painted, this area will look solid, or if we'll be able to see the plank edges. I guess I could have worse problems than smooth planking with no gaps.
Erik
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GrantGoodale reacted to Kevin in HMS VICTORY by Kevin - FINISHED - Caldercraft - 1/72
good evening everyone, ratlines are taking me forever, but considering, when all the sails are in position very little will be seen, one or two will need to retied as they look a little sloppy, but with the diorama that i intend they will be full of little people
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GrantGoodale reacted to Mike Y in Beavers Prize 1777 by Mike Y - 1:48 - POF - Hahn style
Final result. As you can see, I was not really careful with the wood selection in the beginning, so there is a spot of lighter pear around the midship. I began to sort the wood into lighter and darker color later on, and now it is visible. Forever. Well.. Let's call it an artistic touch
Overall, I am pleased with the colour, but surprised it became reddish. It will probably get darker and fade away over time.
There is also a big contrast between the along-the-grain wood covered with WOP (all the parts of the keel) and cross-grain wood with oil applied. It is literally the same wood, where I selected a pretty dark pieces for the keel! I swear! Now it looks like two different woods. Let's call this a feature too
I am done with the fairing, and done with the hull structure. HOORRAY!
Now I can finally relax, watch the oil dry and start making the deck clamps. Big relief! The hull is not screwed up while fairing, the viking funeral is cancelled
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GrantGoodale reacted to Mike Y in Beavers Prize 1777 by Mike Y - 1:48 - POF - Hahn style
Yay, the fairing is finally finished! It was a nasty process with lots of curves, and final finish done by scraping with xacto blades.
But in the end no frame got hurt, no iron bolts got exposed (though some come really close to the edge).
Applied one coat of a non-diluted, 100% pure tung oil (tried diluted oil - result was blotchy, meh).
I was applying a very moderate amount of oil and wiping it with a cloth quickly to prevent uneven result. Covering only the outside surface, no oil at all was applied inside the hull (because deck clamps would be glued to it). The process was very relaxing, finished in the middle of the night..
And you can imagine my surprise when I checked the inside of the hull and saw OIL there!
Seems like it really penetrated through the entire frame, except the thicker floor timbers. You can see the oil avoiding the lamination seems, where glue blocks the oil from penetrating.
I really thought it goes just 1-2mm inside the wood, but no, it is more like 5mm, and maybe even 10mm if you take the grain direction into account.
At the same time, it is fairly simple to scrape it away with xacto blade. Miracle. Capillary suction sucked a pretty thick oil, which was applied in a very moderate amounts.. Who could have guessed.
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GrantGoodale reacted to xken in USS Constitution by xken - Model Shipways - Scale 1:76.8
Thank you all for your kind words and I am just glad to share what I can. I moved on and finished up the starboard side created the artwork for the shields and printed out two sets; one in color and one in gray scale which was used as a pattern to cut brass shields to mount the colored set on. Once out of the printer I sprayed them with an initial light coat of Clear Satin and then a second wet coat. This sets the ink and also makes the paper stiffer for easier cutting out.
While waiting for paint steps to dry I mounted the carved sections in place very carefully using CA applied with a broken jeweler's saw blade a drop at a time. When glue built up on the teeth I just broke the end off for a new set of saw teeth. Once the sections were glued in place then the shields were added.
After all the glues were set both boards were sprayed with Clear Satin for a uniform finish.m When dry then press fir in place. I will let them season for a while before permanently gluing in place.
Here are a couple a couple of pictures. The port side closeup and then a starboard side stand off. She now has a face.
Now to fiquire out the bow and stern bumpkins and work on the outer hull details.
I thought I would just share this for any who wish to follow later or try their hand at this technique.
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GrantGoodale reacted to Kusawa2000 in HMS Agamemnon by Kusawa2000 (Mike Draper) - FINISHED - Caldercraft - Slightly modified version
Hey Everyone: Just a quick update.. working on getting the masts installed. Don't remember this being as much work as it has been. Managed to get the lower foremast completed and now working on the lower main mast. It will be good to get these done as Im keen on getting started on the shrouds and ratlines (I know I will regret that statement but Im keen to start rigging).
Anyhow, enjoy the quick pic
Mike Draper
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GrantGoodale reacted to jim_smits in HMS Hood by jim_smits - Hachette - 1:200 - part works
Hi all!
It's been a busy week and finally got the last of our stuff out of the old house and handed the keys back to the letting agents yesterday.
However still managed to find 20 mins here and there everyday to keep the hood build going. All the frames are complete and I've glued the main skeleton of the build together. Lego blocks and clamps were used to make sure everything was as true as possible. The build has also been screwed a base board to keep everything in place during planking.
I've tested the frame positioning with the deck pieces and everything is largely correctly in place. A few of the deck pieces will need a little extra sanding to get a nice fit, and a couple of the pieces are ever so slightly warped so they will need a little soak and reshaping.
This takes care of the first 10 issues or so. The next few issues start deviating to parts of the superstructure but I may skip and proceed straight to planking the hull. I just need to do some reading ahead and make sure that nothing is missed.
Further updates to follow....!
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GrantGoodale reacted to Mirabell61 in SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse 1897 by Mirabell61 - FINISHED - scale 1:144 - POF - first German four stacker of the Norddeutscher Lloyd line
Many thanks Ed,
it`s fun now, doing the little fitting out details.
The short "waist" railings are made from brass wire and -pins, have to clean up the solderings a bit. On the sides of the forecastle deck are now the the swanneck-vents of the sanitary stations below
Nils
this short railing is only 8 mm high and has to fit in the appropriate space
.... needs touch up and cleaning
swanneck vents
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GrantGoodale reacted to mar3kl in Vasa by mar3kl - Billing Boats - scale 1:75
I'm still in flag limbo. I did find a nice stern lantern which I mounted to the transom:
The Corel Vasa flags showed up a few days ago. They are better quality than the Billings ones, and more interesting looking. Printed on both sides, and on lighter weight fabric that isn't so water-repellent. But I'm still having problems getting them to furl, and the artwork has black outlines around the design elements on two of the flags, giving them a cartoon-like quality.
So I scanned the flags onto my computer, and I'm getting the images vectorized so it's easy to clean them up. Then I'm going to try three approaches. First, I bought some sheets of ink-jet-printable silk, attached to paper with an adhesive backing. The silk is much lighter weight than the Corel flags. I'm going to print a double image of each flag onto the silk, fold it onto itself, then see if I can get the result to hang naturally. If that doesn't work, I'm going to fold the silk around some aluminum foil primed white. That'll make the result thicker and heavier, but it should be bendable. If that doesn't work, I'm going to try the same white-primed aluminum foil trick, but print onto decal film and attach the decals to each side of the foil.
If that doesn't work, the Vasa enters its display case sans flags. A man's gotta know his limitations.
The base for the display case is being built, but likely to take a while.
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GrantGoodale reacted to Gerhardvienna in USS CAIRO by Gerhardvienna - RADIO - live steam
Back again from a short break, thank you all for watching & your nice likes!
The next steps for the large skylights are done, all window frames are ready cut, and the first grill is soldered. The large grills are a lot harder to make, they have 9 fields instead of only 6 at the smaller ones.
The frames, all have carved cutouts for the grills and glasses
All frames fit to the body og skylight
The grill for the first frame
Grill set in for a test before painting
Regards
Gerhard
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GrantGoodale reacted to lambsbk in USS Constitution by lambsbk – Revell – 1/96 - PLASTIC – With Fiber Optics
I have a broken plastic sign holder from the office that is not being used. It has the right curvature for the beam camber. I did a couple tests with different glues (styrene) and unfortunately the Evergreen plastic stuck to the plastic sign as well. So instead I added a Ziplock bag 1 ply thick and stretched it with Duck Tape. No sticking this time. It was initially set up in a convex style configuration...
... but I quickly realized the beams would not be flat to the deck in this configuration so I reversed it to concave. I have to keep the plastic down with weights and clamps as they are glued but so far so good.