qwerty2008
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qwerty2008 reacted to Piet in Hr. Ms. O 19 1938 by Piet - FINISHED - scale 1:50 - submarine of the Royal Navy Netherlands in service 1939 - 1945
Hello all,
Well, I drew up a bunch of frames for the deck structure and cut them out and glued them to a 1/4 inch poplar board. Then I proceeded to cut them all out and started to final fit them to the hull.
I also thank Freek for Fred Huygen's website and I was able to get in touch with him. I asked him if he has any drawings for the little dingy and lo and behold he just happen to have the lines drawings and the measurements. Now it's just a matter of translating all that in a wooden model. That in itself will be a challenge because of the size, tiny.
Okay, here are two pics of the hull with most of the deck frames temporarily placed on top of the hull at their proper locations. I need to make about a dozen more though. So far it's looking okay.
The deck frame bulkheads are temporarily placed on top of the hull looking from the stern.
The deck frame bulkheads are temporarily placed on top of the hull looking from the bow.
That piece of wood between the steel angle and the hull is place the hull at right angles to the build board.
Cheers,
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qwerty2008 reacted to Cap'n Rat Fink in Poplar wood
Sinan,
Poplar is very versital for model building, it also turns well.....my smasher barrel is poplar.....
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qwerty2008 got a reaction from aykutansin in Byzantium by qwerty2008 - Scale 1:20 - RADIO - based on the Pride of Baltimore
Not much progress since my last post. Today I made a mockup deadeye.
Lextin aka qwerty2008
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qwerty2008 reacted to michael mott in Bristol Pilot Cutter by michael mott - 1/8 scale - POF
Hi John, yes I will need to add a sheave at the bottom of the topmast for the heelrope. so the topmast can be housed.
Michael
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qwerty2008 reacted to michael mott in Bristol Pilot Cutter by michael mott - 1/8 scale - POF
John, Mark, Carlos, thank your for checking in and your kind words.
Today I put the boat on the floor so I could work at the top of the shrouds I chose to fix them in a similar manner to the lower ends. by dropping the model to the floor I could stand and the bolster was at 65 inches above the floor and the top of the topmast was 84 inches.
I set all the deadeyes first then wrapped the shrouds around the mast and added some tension as I threaded the crimps and shrink I began with the forward starboard the forward port then hooked on the forestay which I made from 3/32 it was a lot tougher to work with than the 1/16th, then continued with the rear starboard then rear port shrouds.
I will do the seizing tomorrow to give my fingers a rest. Time for the new boom, first the jaws were glued on then given a rough shaping. I will add some leather when the fixings are completed on the jaws. the wood is clear fir.
The brass goose neck will be removed and a platform fitted for the gaff boom
then a smaller mast started with a square section of clear fir and shaped down so that it could be slid up through the yoke, now I need to make the Fid and metal plate.
thats it for now.
Michael
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qwerty2008 reacted to DSiemens in Mercury by DSiemens - FINISHED - BOTTLE
Thank you John. I enjoy your comments.
Augie a good influence? Well..... Thanks for the compliment. I will try to post more as I find time. You wouldn't have any to spare would you.
Thanks Michael. Some times I think it's to much detail for this scale but on the other hand I like pushing my self to these limits.
Thanks Texxn5. It's getting tedious at this point those darn cannons are a pain in behind. I'll keep it up though.
Well it's been a while since I've posted or even been around. I blame work. I won't go into that heavily but long story short I have a ton of financials to do by yesterday and not much time for much else. Seems as though I've been too tired to reply to posts let alone build. I'm hoping to have work ship shape by the end of June though and then I can get back to the ship yard more often.
I did make some progress today. Not much but some. I finished off the cannons on the port side and added the hatches.
Still a lot more to go.
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qwerty2008 reacted to michael mott in Byzantium by qwerty2008 - Scale 1:20 - RADIO - based on the Pride of Baltimore
Good to see that you can find some time to continue the build. Moving is always a messy business. the deadeye looks fine.
Michael
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qwerty2008 reacted to michael mott in Bristol Pilot Cutter by michael mott - 1/8 scale - POF
Daniel thanks for the kind words.
Druxey, thanks yes it feels good to finally have solved this one.
Bob thanks, it was a bit more difficult to work with than I anticipated.
John thanks again for all your encouragement and critical support.
Today I finished seizing the other three shrouds, and I realized that I did not want the forstaye to lay on top of the shrouds. there are some great drawings in the book "The Gaff Rig" by John Leather ISBN 0 229 97489 9 published by Adlard Coles Limited. That show some different variations on Cranes for raising the Gaff, some with a seat for the forestay. so this was today's project after finishing up all the seizings on the shrouds.
I needed to make the crane so that I could determine the new length of the forestay.
I did a scribble on some 1/8th inch thick brass sheet and drilled a few holes.
Then I used the jewelers saw to fret out the shape
The long section was then turned in the lathe while held in the four jaw chuck and threaded 5x40
I test fitted it to the mast.
next was the toughest part filing it to the soft shapes, and a final buffing on the wire wheel, which gives the brass a sort of "cast" look.
And a shot of it on the mast.
I will drill and add a 1/16th pin in the lower end to prevent it from rotating and also file a seat for the forestay before it is locked onto the mast.
Michael
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qwerty2008 got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Triton by qwerty2008 - FINISHED - BOTTLE - cross-section - from memory
Since I couldn't work on my 1:48 scale Triton cross section as much as I would like I decided to make a smaller one in a bottle. I went mostly by memory for the design it is made mostly from card and balsa wood the cannons were turned from bamboo on my drill press all the coloring was done with redwood stain and black Rust-Oleum spray paint sprayed into a jar then thinned (probably a bit too much note the bleeding on one of the cannon carriages) with acetone. I made the model in pieces so that I could fit it threw the neck of the bottle then I assembled it inside the bottle it came out a little crooked but looks OK. I still need to put on some finishing touches on the outside of the bottle before I'm done it took less then two days to to get to this point.
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qwerty2008 reacted to st george in Triton by qwerty2008 - FINISHED - BOTTLE - cross-section - from memory
Very cool, how on earth did it fit?
David
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qwerty2008 reacted to Pete38 in Triton by qwerty2008 - FINISHED - BOTTLE - cross-section - from memory
WOW!!!!!!! That is something you don't see every day. Really like it.
PS: Do you got a bottle to fit mine
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qwerty2008 reacted to michael mott in Triton by qwerty2008 - FINISHED - BOTTLE - cross-section - from memory
Qwerty I thought I was mad, but you Sir are insane. It is a pity that you did not include the mast and spars though.
Michael
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qwerty2008 reacted to michael mott in Bristol Pilot Cutter by michael mott - 1/8 scale - POF
John, we need tools to do the job, right? sorry I spelled it wrong.
Sherry thanks this afternoon my thumbs are sore from cutting and squeezing all sorts of bits.
Mark, thanks for the compliment, regarding the ebony I already had a short bit of ebony dowel from another project so it was quick.
Germanus thanks for your observations, on this one I have to agree with John the difference between steel rope and fibre rope determines the method.
so to round out the day after a fair bit of finger work I am ready to do more seizing.
I will tackle that tomorrow it is time for a
Michael
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qwerty2008 got a reaction from trippwj in Laser cutters
My dad was unable to get new machine but has found a used one within our price range that he will bid on tomorow morning. Cross your fingers
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qwerty2008 reacted to michael mott in Bristol Pilot Cutter by michael mott - 1/8 scale - POF
Matt yes the boat will have to be lowered or the ceiling raised.
Germanus, I looked on the site you linked and their metal wire sounded pretty small it was listed as bronze wire 7 strand #73 drill perhaps I was looking in the wrong place .
Popeye thanks.
I did a little experiment with some bicycle brake cable this morning it is about the right diameter but a little stiff the experiment sold me on the idea of wire rope for the shrouds and forestay though.
I tried a few different ways to seize the wire using fine multi-strand electrical copper wire on the lowest twisted to look line fine line. (looks ok but tough to work with)
the next one up is solid copper wire (doesn't look right)
the next one was three strands of the solid copper ( Way too thick)
the top one is the end of some fine rope made from polyester upholstery thread. (the best looking) but the line is a bit heavy so I think this is the way I will head . I will source some flexible stainless wire approx 1/8th diameter and use upholstery thread lines for seizing and serving
The lanyard is some small diameter shroud I grabbed just to hook up the forestay I will use the right diameter lanyards when this is all sorted.
Michael
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qwerty2008 reacted to Yambo in Laser cutters
I found this after a quick google - http://forums.turbocad.com/index.php?topic=1789.0
It's a TurboCad forum and it seems that TurboCad can save as .dxf but there might be issues.
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qwerty2008 reacted to Yambo in Laser cutters
I don't know about the machines themselves Lextin but I've had some bits and pieces laser cut by an acquaintance in Marmaris (I live in Turkey). I draw the piece on AutoCad, save it as a DXF file so that his software will recognise it and a few minutes later I have a piece of wood exactly the size I want. It's cool. But, if your drawing is wrong . . .
The first time I tried the process out was for a set of hands for a cuckoo clock. After drawing the two hands (I used the old broken hands as a guide) I snipped off a bit of 1mm mahogany ply (surplus material from a laser cut sheet from a boat kit). I laminated both sides of the ply with some thin fibreglass, got them cut and they came out really good. On the drawing I reduced the size of the spindle by around 0.1mm and the hands fitted perfectly.
I'm just finishing off a 1:10 model of a CLC Skerry and I could easily have had all the bits laser cut. I didn't though, I just had the long hull panels done that way There's a picture on post #27 of the Latest Full Profile thread. I should probably update it . . . I've just drawn up the rudder parts on AutoCad and printed them off but I'll be cutting them out on the scroll saw. I'll have them done in the time it would take me to get into town and back.
I like the technique. But again the drawing needs to be right.
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qwerty2008 reacted to Dan Vadas in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Carl, those are the Draft (or Draught) Marks - a gauge of how much the ship is loaded.
Rudder Coat
A feature rarely seen on a model is the Rudder Coat - a tarred canvas that prevents water from entering through the helm port.
I made it from 1500 thread per inch Egyptian Cotton, which I colored with diluted Walnut wood stain. This was then PVA glued into place - one face at a time allowing each one to dry before proceeding to the next :
Wedges were used to hold the upper edges in place while the glue dried. The extra will be trimmed off later :
Danny
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qwerty2008 got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Cutter by qwerty2008 - FINISHED - BOTTLE
I bought a cork today and popped it in the neck of the bottle, now the model is finished.
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qwerty2008 got a reaction from Piet in Cutter by qwerty2008 - FINISHED - BOTTLE
I started on the turk's head knot for the neck of the bottle and was wondering if I should just go with the two strand (image 1) turk's head? or should I make it a three strand turk's head? or should I just wrap the remaining rope around the neck (image 2) to push the turk's head to the top of the neck?
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qwerty2008 reacted to JerryTodd in Byzantium by qwerty2008 - Scale 1:20 - RADIO - based on the Pride of Baltimore
This seemed the quickest way to get the spar dimensions to you...
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qwerty2008 reacted to michael mott in Bristol Pilot Cutter by michael mott - 1/8 scale - POF
John thanks.
Germanus, Yes you are thinking as I was with regard to the strap washer, the shape will mirror that of the gammon iron. My thoughts about the finishing are to keep the bright work bright and to keep paint to the absolute minimum, basically the hull outside, all the other woodwork will get a coat of clear varnish, the deck will be oiled with teak oil. When I make another model and it follows an actual boat I will make the model look like the prototype, as for this model (which is essentially my learning exercise in boat building) I feel that I can be close to tradition and also be creative. and draw from many boats mixing older with more modern.
Michael
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qwerty2008 reacted to michael mott in Bristol Pilot Cutter by michael mott - 1/8 scale - POF
So you're in the club too Mark! Druxey thanks for the welcome
This evening I started on the forestay fitting for the stem.
tomorrow I will silver solder the parts together, and drill the holes. I will make a separate keeper plate for the Gammon Iron.
Michael
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qwerty2008 reacted to DSiemens in Mercury by DSiemens - FINISHED - BOTTLE
Got the port side done and the rudder in place. Still need to add the keel which is why I left the rudder so long. My philosophy is cut big and sand to size. So far it works.
I also decided to change the way I did the windows and the transom. The ship lacked color so I cut off the old transom added color to the plans in Photoshop and printed a new one. I like this much better. Then like an idiot I nick it with the dremel. So if you see some paint differences that's why.
I also added gold paint around the windows. This actually did two things added color and the build up of the paint gave it a more defined windowsill look. I'm much happier with my windows now.
Now I'm finally getting to the itty bitty fun parts.
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qwerty2008 reacted to DSiemens in Mercury by DSiemens - FINISHED - BOTTLE
Got some more work done. I'm not going to worry about scribing planking on any of the other ships the channels covered it all up. I tried a new idea and cut out the windows straight from the plans and glued them onto the side and back of the ship. I like the look and it's much more accurate then trying to paint it on.
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