Chuck

Funny...I will add one.  Its my last vise.  I cant seem to quit.
 
Yes, she will have guns.   Prototype below.  But with the carriages painted red.   

I havent decided on how many yet.   She was supposedly launched with 26 twelve pounders and 6 six pounders.   But my research indicates that during the revolution she carried 24 twelve pounders and 8 six pounders.   
 
I am leaning towards the later because that is the time period I am building.  It also allows me to show the last gunport closed which I prefer and also having 6 quarter deck guns and 2 f'castle guns.

Funny...I will add one.  Its my last vise.  I cant seem to quit.
 
Yes, she will have guns.   Prototype below.  But with the carriages painted red.   

I havent decided on how many yet.   She was supposedly launched with 26 twelve pounders and 6 six pounders.   But my research indicates that during the revolution she carried 24 twelve pounders and 8 six pounders.   
 
I am leaning towards the later because that is the time period I am building.  It also allows me to show the last gunport closed which I prefer and also having 6 quarter deck guns and 2 f'castle guns.

Does the 1/48 Chuck have a cigarette hanging out of his mouth?
 
Just curious - are you fitting her with guns?

Funny...I will add one.  Its my last vise.  I cant seem to quit.
 
Yes, she will have guns.   Prototype below.  But with the carriages painted red.   

I havent decided on how many yet.   She was supposedly launched with 26 twelve pounders and 6 six pounders.   But my research indicates that during the revolution she carried 24 twelve pounders and 8 six pounders.   
 
I am leaning towards the later because that is the time period I am building.  It also allows me to show the last gunport closed which I prefer and also having 6 quarter deck guns and 2 f'castle guns.

I have completed all of the partners and coamings......I can almost start planking the deck now.  I forgot one last detail which I will show you guys soon.   But here are some pics. 
 
The foremast partners are made from laser cut parts and then I added the bolts.  I used 15 pound filament for those.  Use a #75 drill bit for the holes.
 
You can also see the base plate for the stove.   You have a few options with this.  I have laser cut a nice base for you.  At this time the base was most likely just a large iron plate....but in some cases they used flagstone or slate.  If you want to depict the iron plate....just flip it over and paint it matte black.   But if you want to show some slate or flagstones, I have laser etched the other side with a stone tile pattern.
 
Simply paint it matte black first but keep the coaming natural.  Then use some weathering powders on the tiles to make them only slightly lighter.  Leave the etched grout lines (which are deeper) dark black.   But use some grays and rust colors to make a subtle stone base.  Dont over do it!!!
 
The main mast partners were done the same as the fore mast partners.   None of these are glued in position yet but I will be doing so soon!!!






Any comments or questions!!!!!!!

Thanks....indeed it holds a close resemblance.   I am sad to say.    LOL.  It freaks out my kids when they see it.
 
Chuck

Thanks....indeed it holds a close resemblance.   I am sad to say.    LOL.  It freaks out my kids when they see it.
 
Chuck

Hoping to try everything before deciding.  Here is the dark roof again but I made it much lighter.  I also painted the top blue to match the frieze which is like the minerva model.   Now I cant make up my mind.  I like them both.  I will study these photos and make a decision with your help. Always a lot of fun right....I do appreciate the help and your thoughts on this.  
 




 
 

Thank You!!!
 
I added the columns to the QGalleries.  The top and bottom of the columns were done using a scraped strip of boxwood.  Basically you scrape the strip like you would make a molding.  Then cut off tiny pieces that become the top and bottom of each column.  You still must file the sape on each side to finish it off.  This was a 3/32" x 3/64" boxwood strip.
 
Then the fluted column was added between these two pieces to complete each column.  These are laser cut from .025" thick boxwood.  They have laser etched flutes.  
 
Note how just a small strip of blue remains on each side of the columns.  I will start working on the other side so now so I complete the galleries at the same time.  Then I will put the shingled roof on each qgallery.
 

Just a small update...I have put the seats in the galleries.  This means I can start closing them up next.  The seats are made of two laser cut pieces that are 1/32" thick.   The front panel and the top.   You still need to bevel and tweak the edges for the best fit.
 

Work has started on the qgallery framing....
 
The continuation of the upper counter is of course first.  Based on the reference marks from my template, I added the two beams that represent the top and bottom framing.  The top frame is 1/8" thick.  They are all laser cut for you by the way although a bit longer.  The top frame needs to be beveled to sit properly against the transom edge.    This image is from the 3/16" scale model and it shows the framing best.  You can see the bevels and fairing outboard.

On top of the upper qgallery frame sits a laser cut piece that is very thin.  It is just 1/32" x 1/32".  But it is curved to follow the inside curve of the frame.  This will become important later.  You should add this now.  Here is what that looks like on the new model.  Also note the pie shaped piece that forms the lower frame.  This is 1/16" thick.  The aft edge is beveled to fit under the edge of the transom.  You can see that this lower piece follows the same angle as the top frame.
 

Once these frames are glued on the outside edges must be faired just like the hull would be.  This is in preparation for the planking that will be glued to form the upper counter as it wraps around and forms the qgallery base.  The planking is actually just one piece and it has also been laser cut.  Again its a bit over-sized because everyone's model will be slightly different.   It is 1/32" thick.  Once glued on, you can sand the top and bottom edges flush with the framing.  (Also the aft edge)  The photo below shows it all sanded and completed.
 
You will have to bevel the forward edge of this shell before you glue it on....this is done so it fits snug and tight against the hull planking.

Finally, you can add the fancy molding that defines the upper counter.  These are made from boxwood.  They should be 1/8" wide.  All of the strips were scraped in their usual way to form the molding.  The one thing I would mention which is an exception....the upper molding along the transom is actually 1/16" thick.  This is the only one that is thicker.  We need it to be thicker so it stands proud of the transom to support all of the columns and carvings between the windows.  But I used the same scraper to make this one that I used for the thinner strips.
 
In addition, I also scraped the fancy molding that is shown on either side of the stern post.  These define the bottom edge of the lower counter.  It has a slightly different fancy profile but is also 1/8" wide.  It finishes off the lower counter quite well and neatens it all up.  It separates the hull planking and any messy ends of those planks you might have been less successful with.  Just cover the seam slightly to hide any defects. 
 

In the photo above you can also see that I tested the drop in position as well as the figure that sits on the end of the transom.  Jack did a great job with these and they fit really well.  They look great!!!
 

If you wanted....you could add the drop permanently at this point but dont add the figure.  I was just testing how it fit.  In addition I thought I would test how well the friezes fit and what they would  look like.  These are also NOT glued on yet.  They are just lightly tacked on so I could see how they look.  I wanted to see the color and shape of these and if they actually fit.  I have a bit of tweaking to do on these but I do think they look good.  What do you think?  They are literally the actual friezes from the contemporary model.  They are replicated as best I could.....but are very very close.  You can check them out in our gallery on the contemporary model.
 


 
 

Thanks Greg, Yes indeed there are quite a few angles.   So far so good though.
 
Just a small update, but its an important one.  The image below shows the transom and quarter gallery filler.  Notice the top edge of the transom.  You can see all of the layers and this is not very desirable since this area outboard will be left bright and visible.  It looks ugly.   To clean this up, we need to add a strip along the top edge.  This will have a cleaner finished look.  But its full of curves and also has the stern frames protruding through it.  This could make it tricky to achieve.   
 

But I wouldnt try doing this in one piece using a continuous strip that needs to be notched out around the stern frames.  That would be nuts considering the compound curves.
 
So I decided instead to add the cap of the transom in sections which proved to be much easier and really not that difficult at all.  The cap is very thin.  In fact the thinner the better.  I milled a 1/64" thick strip that was 3/16" wide.   Such a thin strip of any wood is very flexible. But Cedar in particular is crazy flexible and very strong.   To demonstrate this, I literally milled a strip on my Byrnes saw and then tied it into a knot.  I didnt apply any heat or water.  The photo below shows the strip after I took it directly off the saw and tied it.
 

 
Of course I cut a new strip!!!!  Then I cut it into segments as shown below to finish the top of the transom so it wouldnt look so ugly.  The fancy molding on the transom will cover the seam outboard and the top surface will look nice and clean.  You can see I have a few sections left to finish it up.

You can see in this image below that no layers can be seen any more.  You shouldnt do the side of the transom....dont put a strip there.  Only the top edge gets it.  The sides will be completely covered with the figure that will eventually be placed there.  You wont see those layers.
 

I also cut a new set of windows using yellow cedar rather than boxwood.  These actually work better in my opinion.  Th e color is better and they are no more fragile than the boxwood versions.  So I am going to go with Cedar.  The laser char is much lighter as well because Boxwood burns a whole lot more!!!  So its not as noticeable.  I coated the thin cap on the right side with some wipe on poly so you could see it better.  I wanted to show you how thin it is.  When you mill the strip....keep it thin.   It makes it a lot easier to work with.
 

Yes the rabbet actually stops at that step.  This is a common feature and is actually shown on most original drafts.   The issue is that all ......and I mean all kit MFGs just ignore this feature.   
 
You can see it on the original draft where the dimension of the keel changes.  It might be tough to see in this photo but its there as well on the contemporary model.  Our model has the exact same number of strakes by the way.
 

 
Chuck

Thanks....indeed it holds a close resemblance.   I am sad to say.    LOL.  It freaks out my kids when they see it.
 
Chuck

Thanks....indeed it holds a close resemblance.   I am sad to say.    LOL.  It freaks out my kids when they see it.
 
Chuck

Thanks....indeed it holds a close resemblance.   I am sad to say.    LOL.  It freaks out my kids when they see it.
 
Chuck

Thanks....indeed it holds a close resemblance.   I am sad to say.    LOL.  It freaks out my kids when they see it.
 
Chuck

Thanks....indeed it holds a close resemblance.   I am sad to say.    LOL.  It freaks out my kids when they see it.
 
Chuck

Thanks....indeed it holds a close resemblance.   I am sad to say.    LOL.  It freaks out my kids when they see it.
 
Chuck

Thanks....indeed it holds a close resemblance.   I am sad to say.    LOL.  It freaks out my kids when they see it.
 
Chuck

I forgot to mention that I will not be drilling the deck for the masts since there wont be any.  I simply painted the circles black on the false decking.  The partners are really thick and then there will be the mast coats so these holes will be pretty deep.  So it will look nice and neat this way and nobody will ever know.  AND they are so deep that if anyone was crazy enough to rig her, that they would be sufficiently deep enough to stick your masts into.
 

I have completed all of the partners and coamings......I can almost start planking the deck now.  I forgot one last detail which I will show you guys soon.   But here are some pics. 
 
The foremast partners are made from laser cut parts and then I added the bolts.  I used 15 pound filament for those.  Use a #75 drill bit for the holes.
 
You can also see the base plate for the stove.   You have a few options with this.  I have laser cut a nice base for you.  At this time the base was most likely just a large iron plate....but in some cases they used flagstone or slate.  If you want to depict the iron plate....just flip it over and paint it matte black.   But if you want to show some slate or flagstones, I have laser etched the other side with a stone tile pattern.
 
Simply paint it matte black first but keep the coaming natural.  Then use some weathering powders on the tiles to make them only slightly lighter.  Leave the etched grout lines (which are deeper) dark black.   But use some grays and rust colors to make a subtle stone base.  Dont over do it!!!
 
The main mast partners were done the same as the fore mast partners.   None of these are glued in position yet but I will be doing so soon!!!






Any comments or questions!!!!!!!

Back to the Winnie....
 
To make the gratings for the gun deck you will need 3 packages of my cambered grating mini kits.  I will not be including these in the package for chapter 4 because I sell them in either cedar (less expensive) or boxwood.   Both would work and you guys can choose.  You will also need the grating jig.  One jig should last you the entire project.
 
To start, figure out how many cambered laser cut grating strips you will need to fit the space in your coaming.  Only build what you need.  For example this grating below on left side needed just seven grating strips in the jig.  My coaming were designed so each grating will fit perfectly when finished.  So dont use more than the space needs.
 

Then use the supplied strips and press them into the notches carefully.  You will notice they will probably be too tight at first.  This is by design.  You need to run some sandpaper down the strip until it becomes a nice press-fit into the notches.  Once again only use the number of strips you need.  In this case 13 strips pressed firmly in position...
 
At this stage you should look it over to make sure no grating strips went crooked while you were fitting the batten strips.  If they did your holes wont be equal in shape and size.  Fix those now using a toothpick if they lean over.  Its easy to do.
 

Then paint on some watered down tite-bond.  Get it in all the nooks and crannies.   Not too thick.   If the holes start clogging....add more water.
Wait about 2 minutes but not so long that the glue will dry.  You want to carefully pry the grating free of the jig before it dries and is glued to the jig!!!
 
Then clean up the jig for the next grating.   But you are not done yet.  Brush more glue on the bottom underside of the grating.  Set it aside to dry fully.
 

Now you are probably saying.... how in world will these ugly dirty gratings look good.  Right now they look awful.
 
Snip off the excess from the perimeter and file the sides smooth.  Check the fit in the coaming.   Then start sanding the top surface.  In the center photo below you can see I have sanding that grating only on one side.  The finished grating can be seen coming to light.
 
The one on the right is completed.   These are cedar gratings by the way.   Now should you sand the bottom too?   You dont have to.....BUT, I am sure you have seen those contemporary models and have seen how thin they are.  I wouldnt recommend going too thin.   But it does change the way the grating looks in the coaming.   
 

 
And here are the finished coamings with the gratings in position.   
 

ANY QUESTIONS????

Sure the lighter one is cedar.....other than the slight color difference they both look and perform the task beautifully.  Keep in mind I just took this with my phone.   But you get the idea.
 

 
Chuck

I forgot to mention that I will not be drilling the deck for the masts since there wont be any.  I simply painted the circles black on the false decking.  The partners are really thick and then there will be the mast coats so these holes will be pretty deep.  So it will look nice and neat this way and nobody will ever know.  AND they are so deep that if anyone was crazy enough to rig her, that they would be sufficiently deep enough to stick your masts into.