Chuck
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Chuck got a reaction from jml1083 in Medway Longboat 1742 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1/2" scale
No its scraped off the model see below. You can see the profile. And some pictures with better lighting. I had the brightness up too high on the last ones.
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Chuck got a reaction from coxswain in Medway Longboat 1742 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1/2" scale
No its scraped off the model see below. You can see the profile. And some pictures with better lighting. I had the brightness up too high on the last ones.
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Chuck got a reaction from kees de mol in Medway Longboat 1742 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1/2" scale
No its scraped off the model see below. You can see the profile. And some pictures with better lighting. I had the brightness up too high on the last ones.
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Chuck got a reaction from Obormotov in Medway Longboat 1742 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1/2" scale
I added the inboard sheer strip which is also laser cut to shape. It is 1/8" wide and really finishes off the cap rail. Then rather than paint the top of the cap rail red which would have been smart, I decided to work more on the frieze. Once that was added I can use the bottom edge of the frieze to align the molding strip below it. The molding strip is 1/8" x 3/64" and it is scraped to a simple profile.
The interesting thing you might note is that the molding strip below the frieze is NOT yellow cedar. The molding is actually boxwood. I find it is the best material for scraping moldings. I will post an illustration of the profile I chose soon. But if you look closely you wont see any real difference in color or appearance in the boxwood strip in comparison with the yellow cedar planking. They work really well together.
The frieze itself is an exact copy of the one on the contemporary model. I took the image of the cont. model and cropped and sized the frieze strip from it. After printing it out I went back in and cleaned it up with some paint and color pencils and scanned it again. That was cut out and applied to the model.
I am still working on the frieze for the transom.
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Chuck got a reaction from Mike Y in Medway Longboat 1742 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1/2" scale
No its scraped off the model see below. You can see the profile. And some pictures with better lighting. I had the brightness up too high on the last ones.
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Chuck got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in Medway Longboat 1742 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1/2" scale
I added the inboard sheer strip which is also laser cut to shape. It is 1/8" wide and really finishes off the cap rail. Then rather than paint the top of the cap rail red which would have been smart, I decided to work more on the frieze. Once that was added I can use the bottom edge of the frieze to align the molding strip below it. The molding strip is 1/8" x 3/64" and it is scraped to a simple profile.
The interesting thing you might note is that the molding strip below the frieze is NOT yellow cedar. The molding is actually boxwood. I find it is the best material for scraping moldings. I will post an illustration of the profile I chose soon. But if you look closely you wont see any real difference in color or appearance in the boxwood strip in comparison with the yellow cedar planking. They work really well together.
The frieze itself is an exact copy of the one on the contemporary model. I took the image of the cont. model and cropped and sized the frieze strip from it. After printing it out I went back in and cleaned it up with some paint and color pencils and scanned it again. That was cut out and applied to the model.
I am still working on the frieze for the transom.
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Chuck got a reaction from jml1083 in Medway Longboat 1742 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1/2" scale
I added the inboard sheer strip which is also laser cut to shape. It is 1/8" wide and really finishes off the cap rail. Then rather than paint the top of the cap rail red which would have been smart, I decided to work more on the frieze. Once that was added I can use the bottom edge of the frieze to align the molding strip below it. The molding strip is 1/8" x 3/64" and it is scraped to a simple profile.
The interesting thing you might note is that the molding strip below the frieze is NOT yellow cedar. The molding is actually boxwood. I find it is the best material for scraping moldings. I will post an illustration of the profile I chose soon. But if you look closely you wont see any real difference in color or appearance in the boxwood strip in comparison with the yellow cedar planking. They work really well together.
The frieze itself is an exact copy of the one on the contemporary model. I took the image of the cont. model and cropped and sized the frieze strip from it. After printing it out I went back in and cleaned it up with some paint and color pencils and scanned it again. That was cut out and applied to the model.
I am still working on the frieze for the transom.
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Chuck got a reaction from Obormotov in Medway Longboat 1742 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1/2" scale
I am working on having the package available to build the hull by mid September if everything works out. Then a rigging and masting package will follow after.
Chuck
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Chuck got a reaction from Erebus and Terror in Medway Longboat 1742 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1/2" scale
I added the inboard sheer strip which is also laser cut to shape. It is 1/8" wide and really finishes off the cap rail. Then rather than paint the top of the cap rail red which would have been smart, I decided to work more on the frieze. Once that was added I can use the bottom edge of the frieze to align the molding strip below it. The molding strip is 1/8" x 3/64" and it is scraped to a simple profile.
The interesting thing you might note is that the molding strip below the frieze is NOT yellow cedar. The molding is actually boxwood. I find it is the best material for scraping moldings. I will post an illustration of the profile I chose soon. But if you look closely you wont see any real difference in color or appearance in the boxwood strip in comparison with the yellow cedar planking. They work really well together.
The frieze itself is an exact copy of the one on the contemporary model. I took the image of the cont. model and cropped and sized the frieze strip from it. After printing it out I went back in and cleaned it up with some paint and color pencils and scanned it again. That was cut out and applied to the model.
I am still working on the frieze for the transom.
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Chuck got a reaction from coxswain in Medway Longboat 1742 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1/2" scale
I added the inboard sheer strip which is also laser cut to shape. It is 1/8" wide and really finishes off the cap rail. Then rather than paint the top of the cap rail red which would have been smart, I decided to work more on the frieze. Once that was added I can use the bottom edge of the frieze to align the molding strip below it. The molding strip is 1/8" x 3/64" and it is scraped to a simple profile.
The interesting thing you might note is that the molding strip below the frieze is NOT yellow cedar. The molding is actually boxwood. I find it is the best material for scraping moldings. I will post an illustration of the profile I chose soon. But if you look closely you wont see any real difference in color or appearance in the boxwood strip in comparison with the yellow cedar planking. They work really well together.
The frieze itself is an exact copy of the one on the contemporary model. I took the image of the cont. model and cropped and sized the frieze strip from it. After printing it out I went back in and cleaned it up with some paint and color pencils and scanned it again. That was cut out and applied to the model.
I am still working on the frieze for the transom.
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Chuck got a reaction from Mike Y in Medway Longboat 1742 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1/2" scale
I added the inboard sheer strip which is also laser cut to shape. It is 1/8" wide and really finishes off the cap rail. Then rather than paint the top of the cap rail red which would have been smart, I decided to work more on the frieze. Once that was added I can use the bottom edge of the frieze to align the molding strip below it. The molding strip is 1/8" x 3/64" and it is scraped to a simple profile.
The interesting thing you might note is that the molding strip below the frieze is NOT yellow cedar. The molding is actually boxwood. I find it is the best material for scraping moldings. I will post an illustration of the profile I chose soon. But if you look closely you wont see any real difference in color or appearance in the boxwood strip in comparison with the yellow cedar planking. They work really well together.
The frieze itself is an exact copy of the one on the contemporary model. I took the image of the cont. model and cropped and sized the frieze strip from it. After printing it out I went back in and cleaned it up with some paint and color pencils and scanned it again. That was cut out and applied to the model.
I am still working on the frieze for the transom.
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Chuck got a reaction from Elijah in Medway Longboat 1742 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1/2" scale
I added the inboard sheer strip which is also laser cut to shape. It is 1/8" wide and really finishes off the cap rail. Then rather than paint the top of the cap rail red which would have been smart, I decided to work more on the frieze. Once that was added I can use the bottom edge of the frieze to align the molding strip below it. The molding strip is 1/8" x 3/64" and it is scraped to a simple profile.
The interesting thing you might note is that the molding strip below the frieze is NOT yellow cedar. The molding is actually boxwood. I find it is the best material for scraping moldings. I will post an illustration of the profile I chose soon. But if you look closely you wont see any real difference in color or appearance in the boxwood strip in comparison with the yellow cedar planking. They work really well together.
The frieze itself is an exact copy of the one on the contemporary model. I took the image of the cont. model and cropped and sized the frieze strip from it. After printing it out I went back in and cleaned it up with some paint and color pencils and scanned it again. That was cut out and applied to the model.
I am still working on the frieze for the transom.
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Chuck got a reaction from AnobiumPunctatum in Medway Longboat 1742 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1/2" scale
I added the inboard sheer strip which is also laser cut to shape. It is 1/8" wide and really finishes off the cap rail. Then rather than paint the top of the cap rail red which would have been smart, I decided to work more on the frieze. Once that was added I can use the bottom edge of the frieze to align the molding strip below it. The molding strip is 1/8" x 3/64" and it is scraped to a simple profile.
The interesting thing you might note is that the molding strip below the frieze is NOT yellow cedar. The molding is actually boxwood. I find it is the best material for scraping moldings. I will post an illustration of the profile I chose soon. But if you look closely you wont see any real difference in color or appearance in the boxwood strip in comparison with the yellow cedar planking. They work really well together.
The frieze itself is an exact copy of the one on the contemporary model. I took the image of the cont. model and cropped and sized the frieze strip from it. After printing it out I went back in and cleaned it up with some paint and color pencils and scanned it again. That was cut out and applied to the model.
I am still working on the frieze for the transom.
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Chuck got a reaction from thibaultron in Medway Longboat 1742 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1/2" scale
I added the inboard sheer strip which is also laser cut to shape. It is 1/8" wide and really finishes off the cap rail. Then rather than paint the top of the cap rail red which would have been smart, I decided to work more on the frieze. Once that was added I can use the bottom edge of the frieze to align the molding strip below it. The molding strip is 1/8" x 3/64" and it is scraped to a simple profile.
The interesting thing you might note is that the molding strip below the frieze is NOT yellow cedar. The molding is actually boxwood. I find it is the best material for scraping moldings. I will post an illustration of the profile I chose soon. But if you look closely you wont see any real difference in color or appearance in the boxwood strip in comparison with the yellow cedar planking. They work really well together.
The frieze itself is an exact copy of the one on the contemporary model. I took the image of the cont. model and cropped and sized the frieze strip from it. After printing it out I went back in and cleaned it up with some paint and color pencils and scanned it again. That was cut out and applied to the model.
I am still working on the frieze for the transom.
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Chuck got a reaction from JeffT in Medway Longboat 1742 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1/2" scale
I added the inboard sheer strip which is also laser cut to shape. It is 1/8" wide and really finishes off the cap rail. Then rather than paint the top of the cap rail red which would have been smart, I decided to work more on the frieze. Once that was added I can use the bottom edge of the frieze to align the molding strip below it. The molding strip is 1/8" x 3/64" and it is scraped to a simple profile.
The interesting thing you might note is that the molding strip below the frieze is NOT yellow cedar. The molding is actually boxwood. I find it is the best material for scraping moldings. I will post an illustration of the profile I chose soon. But if you look closely you wont see any real difference in color or appearance in the boxwood strip in comparison with the yellow cedar planking. They work really well together.
The frieze itself is an exact copy of the one on the contemporary model. I took the image of the cont. model and cropped and sized the frieze strip from it. After printing it out I went back in and cleaned it up with some paint and color pencils and scanned it again. That was cut out and applied to the model.
I am still working on the frieze for the transom.
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Chuck got a reaction from KenW in Medway Longboat 1742 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1/2" scale
I added the inboard sheer strip which is also laser cut to shape. It is 1/8" wide and really finishes off the cap rail. Then rather than paint the top of the cap rail red which would have been smart, I decided to work more on the frieze. Once that was added I can use the bottom edge of the frieze to align the molding strip below it. The molding strip is 1/8" x 3/64" and it is scraped to a simple profile.
The interesting thing you might note is that the molding strip below the frieze is NOT yellow cedar. The molding is actually boxwood. I find it is the best material for scraping moldings. I will post an illustration of the profile I chose soon. But if you look closely you wont see any real difference in color or appearance in the boxwood strip in comparison with the yellow cedar planking. They work really well together.
The frieze itself is an exact copy of the one on the contemporary model. I took the image of the cont. model and cropped and sized the frieze strip from it. After printing it out I went back in and cleaned it up with some paint and color pencils and scanned it again. That was cut out and applied to the model.
I am still working on the frieze for the transom.
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Chuck got a reaction from dvm27 in Medway Longboat 1742 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1/2" scale
I added the inboard sheer strip which is also laser cut to shape. It is 1/8" wide and really finishes off the cap rail. Then rather than paint the top of the cap rail red which would have been smart, I decided to work more on the frieze. Once that was added I can use the bottom edge of the frieze to align the molding strip below it. The molding strip is 1/8" x 3/64" and it is scraped to a simple profile.
The interesting thing you might note is that the molding strip below the frieze is NOT yellow cedar. The molding is actually boxwood. I find it is the best material for scraping moldings. I will post an illustration of the profile I chose soon. But if you look closely you wont see any real difference in color or appearance in the boxwood strip in comparison with the yellow cedar planking. They work really well together.
The frieze itself is an exact copy of the one on the contemporary model. I took the image of the cont. model and cropped and sized the frieze strip from it. After printing it out I went back in and cleaned it up with some paint and color pencils and scanned it again. That was cut out and applied to the model.
I am still working on the frieze for the transom.
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Chuck got a reaction from Obormotov in Medway Longboat 1742 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1/2" scale
This is 1/2" scale. I am slowly catching up with my inventory. In fact other than a few sizes of blocks everything is in good shape. I have 175 products now or SKU numbers. Three weeks ago I was either out of stock or nearly out of stock with 70 of them. But over the last three weeks I have been working like a dog and its now down to just ten items. Unfortunately these last ten will take a while.....they are mostly blocks which I purposely ignored working on so that I would be able do quickly attend to all of the other stuff. Now that the other stuff is good to go I am busy knocking off the blocks now.
Aside from that....I am nearly finished working on the Stern Mini Kit for the admiralty workshop as well. That should be done this week. That will leave me with plenty of time to go back and forth between the Winnie and the longboat. The Pegasus Xsection will sit idle until this is completed because I think its important to get another group project going here and also in my local club. I anticipate this longboat will be a very quick project. It is NOT a very complex model to design or build at all. I have set a personal and probable deadline of September to get the longboat all finished up. Then I will get back to Pegasus.
I have another update on this project coming today which will show you just how quickly this will come together.
Chuck
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Chuck got a reaction from Elijah in Medway Longboat 1742 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1/2" scale
I am working on having the package available to build the hull by mid September if everything works out. Then a rigging and masting package will follow after.
Chuck
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Chuck got a reaction from mtaylor in QUEEN ANNE BARGE by Chuck Seiler - Syren Shipmodel Co. - Scale 1:24 - circa 1705
Good to know......if you need new frames just let me know which ones.
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Chuck got a reaction from Richmond in QUEEN ANNE BARGE by Chuck Seiler - Syren Shipmodel Co. - Scale 1:24 - circa 1705
Very nicely done....its a really fun project to build. Enjoy the process and as I have mentioned before....I love to see what all of you guys decide to do with the model. Its a great solid foundation for adding so much more and making it your own unique model...
I am actually laser cutting more of these today!!!
Chuck
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Chuck got a reaction from Obormotov in Medway Longboat 1742 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1/2" scale
Same with this one...but there will be no comparison in my opinion.
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Chuck got a reaction from thibaultron in Medway Longboat 1742 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1/2" scale
I am working on having the package available to build the hull by mid September if everything works out. Then a rigging and masting package will follow after.
Chuck
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Chuck got a reaction from Elijah in Medway Longboat 1742 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1/2" scale
Same with this one...but there will be no comparison in my opinion.
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Chuck got a reaction from JeffT in Medway Longboat 1742 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1/2" scale
I am working on having the package available to build the hull by mid September if everything works out. Then a rigging and masting package will follow after.
Chuck
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