Remcohe

Thanks all for your kind comments. Greg the pillars were cut freehand and with the help of a piece of paper with the cross slide settings written down.
 
More beams, knees and now its also time to add the hammock battens. They are fragile once glued in place and easily knocked off (yes I tried it...)
 

 

 

 
Remco

Thanks guys. Druxey, actually the drawers are made with half blind dovetails
 
For the utensils I thought to just borrow the admiral's but somehow they don't fit.....
 

 
Well a scaled down version then.... I leave it up to you to guess how I made these...
 

 

 
Enough playing around let's get back to the serious stuff (but maybe next build a doll house?)
 
Remco

Thanks all for your kind comments. Greg the pillars were cut freehand and with the help of a piece of paper with the cross slide settings written down.
 
More beams, knees and now its also time to add the hammock battens. They are fragile once glued in place and easily knocked off (yes I tried it...)
 

 

 

 
Remco

Thanks all for your kind comments. Greg the pillars were cut freehand and with the help of a piece of paper with the cross slide settings written down.
 
More beams, knees and now its also time to add the hammock battens. They are fragile once glued in place and easily knocked off (yes I tried it...)
 

 

 

 
Remco

Thanks all for your kind comments. Greg the pillars were cut freehand and with the help of a piece of paper with the cross slide settings written down.
 
More beams, knees and now its also time to add the hammock battens. They are fragile once glued in place and easily knocked off (yes I tried it...)
 

 

 

 
Remco

Thanks for the very kind comments.
 
I started working on the sail room, a lot of preparation went into making a jig to cut the mortises for the loovers. After that was set up it was pretty straightforward (I thought, but making the different stanchions with the mortices on the right sides took more than one try....)
 

 

 
The sail room will be made off the model, it's a big 3D jigsaw and I foresee trouble ahead to get the last side in place. But we'll see.
 

 
I also got some fabric to make a couple of sails. I'm wondering if their shouldn't be racks of some sort to store the sails. 
 

 
Remco

Thanks for the nice compliments.
 
 
 
Sure, if I can hire you to do the drafting of the furniture, as I love your drawings. So just send your idea's and we'll make it a joint effort.
 
The upper half of the cupboard as two features, one shelf for pots and one to hold plates, I got the idea of some pictures I found of galleys.
 

 
 
 
Remco

Interesting discussion, unfortunately my NMM plans don't show the position of the lanterns.
 
Meanwhile I've made some storage space for the galley, I wasn't pleased with MKI
 

 
so I build MKII with thinner hinges and a working drawer. Behind it I'll make an open cupboard.
 

 

 
Remco
 

Thanks all for your kind comments. Greg the pillars were cut freehand and with the help of a piece of paper with the cross slide settings written down.
 
More beams, knees and now its also time to add the hammock battens. They are fragile once glued in place and easily knocked off (yes I tried it...)
 

 

 

 
Remco

Thanks all for your kind comments. Greg the pillars were cut freehand and with the help of a piece of paper with the cross slide settings written down.
 
More beams, knees and now its also time to add the hammock battens. They are fragile once glued in place and easily knocked off (yes I tried it...)
 

 

 

 
Remco

Thanks all for your kind comments. Greg the pillars were cut freehand and with the help of a piece of paper with the cross slide settings written down.
 
More beams, knees and now its also time to add the hammock battens. They are fragile once glued in place and easily knocked off (yes I tried it...)
 

 

 

 
Remco

Thanks all for your kind comments. Greg the pillars were cut freehand and with the help of a piece of paper with the cross slide settings written down.
 
More beams, knees and now its also time to add the hammock battens. They are fragile once glued in place and easily knocked off (yes I tried it...)
 

 

 

 
Remco

Thanks all for your kind comments. Greg the pillars were cut freehand and with the help of a piece of paper with the cross slide settings written down.
 
More beams, knees and now its also time to add the hammock battens. They are fragile once glued in place and easily knocked off (yes I tried it...)
 

 

 

 
Remco

Thanks for the appreciation. Greg's right, starting with a cross section  (and a cross section is already a big project!) is good advise.
 
Today something different. For some time I've been using a small board as a movable workstation, so I can move is out of the way if I need to install something in the hull. As you can see I don't use a building board to hold the hull as I work mostly seated. The board is also used for my sanding block and today I added a small edge to is so it works as a shooting bord now. I had to adapt the sanding block so it will ride along the edge. A good sanding station helps to make perfect joints ( and sharp chisels....).
 
 

 

 

 
Remco

Well here she goes......
 

Here's most of the framing work, the dreaded hawse timbers as most of you will remember and the reinstallement of the port stills

Thanks all for your kind comments. Greg the pillars were cut freehand and with the help of a piece of paper with the cross slide settings written down.
 
More beams, knees and now its also time to add the hammock battens. They are fragile once glued in place and easily knocked off (yes I tried it...)
 

 

 

 
Remco

Thanks all for your kind comments. Greg the pillars were cut freehand and with the help of a piece of paper with the cross slide settings written down.
 
More beams, knees and now its also time to add the hammock battens. They are fragile once glued in place and easily knocked off (yes I tried it...)
 

 

 

 
Remco

Thanks all for your kind comments. Greg the pillars were cut freehand and with the help of a piece of paper with the cross slide settings written down.
 
More beams, knees and now its also time to add the hammock battens. They are fragile once glued in place and easily knocked off (yes I tried it...)
 

 

 

 
Remco

Thanks all for your kind comments. Greg the pillars were cut freehand and with the help of a piece of paper with the cross slide settings written down.
 
More beams, knees and now its also time to add the hammock battens. They are fragile once glued in place and easily knocked off (yes I tried it...)
 

 

 

 
Remco

Thanks,
 
Today I started making the coamings for the hatch gratings.  There are three,  but only two need coamings.   The main hatch is shown here.  The second smaller grating will be just aft of the windlass.
 
The gratings were made using the Syren grating kits with camber already built in them.
 

 
Then the coamings were built up around the finished gratings.  Too often I see folks build the coaming following the plans and then when it comes time to add the grating it wont fit.  Sometimes you end up with holes along the coaming or have to shave down the grating too much to fit it into the coaming.  By building the coaming around a finished grating I wont have this issue.  Now my grating may end up being a hair larger or smaller than the plans but that is less important than having it look correct.  We are talking about maybe .025" larger or smaller...thats acceptable.
 

 
The coamings were made with the usual lap joints.  Note the fore and aft sides have a roundup.  These coamings are 1/4" high.  Others will be less and not as thick...they are all different but for the two gratings the coamings are 1/4" high x 3/32" thick.  But dont forget that the planking will go around them so only 3/16' will be above the planked deck.
 
Then a right angle jig was used to round off the corners except for what will be the bottom 1/16".   The jig is 1/16" thick which will be the same thickness as the planking.  I added a strip inside the coaming on the port and starboard sides to create a lip to support the grating as well.  
 
 
 
To finish it off I softened the hard corners all around the top edge of the coaming.   I may or may not paint the coaming red and leave the grating bright.  But I dont know yet.  I have seen Cutter models done both ways.   There will be a lot of other deck fittings painted red so I dont want to go overboard... .  Tomorrow I will make the coaming for the smaller grating behind the windlass.
 

 

 
Chuck

Hi Danny,
Two things of note after I tell you what an unbelievable build, in minute detail AND tutorial help for the rest of us. I look forward to your next enterprise. Firstly, I told you some time ago that your skills were second to none... You suggested I look at Rehmco"s and Toni"s builds. I didn't until a week ago, because I didn't believe it possible. Without taking ANYTHING away from yours...Mother of God! They are also exquisite. Secondly, maybe now the rest of us who have been putting it off, can start / resume our builds, using the three (and more) "How to.." manuals you guys have provided. My congratulations to you.
With regards and respect,
Russell

Some small progress: hardware ports:

 
 
 
To get an idea of the proportions, the one you see in the picture at the top is the tip of 0.4 mm with which I performed the holes

 

 

 

 

 

Stern Lights Fitted
 
Not far from the finish line now . I've fitted the three open Stern Lights that I made a few years ago :
 

 

 

 
The only things left to do now are the Capstan Bars, and all the coils for the belaying.
 
 Danny

David - Thank you for answering George's question.
 
I've finished fitting the flags. I'm not sure whether my method of hoisting them is suitable for the period, but they work quite well this way.
 
I made two toggles for each flag. One is fitted to the bottom corner of the flag, the other to the halyard at the top end. When no flag is flown the toggle and eye in the halyard are joined together :
 

 

 
The halyard goes through the sheave in the truck :
 

 
The toggle in the halyard passes through the eye in the top of the flag :
 

 
The other end of the halyard has an eye through which the toggle in the bottom corner of the flag passes :
 

 
The halyards for both flags belay to small cleats :
 

 

 
Some views of both flags. I briefly soaked them both in water, shaped them and let them dry overnight before fitting them :
 

 

 

 
 Danny