Remcohe

Thanks all for helping me to sort this out. 
 
Jan, 0,5 mm copper rod scored with a sharp blade made the screw head.
 
Sorry Grant, no way I can make working screws on this scale
 
So that said, the gudgeons are made, again from brass strip and bar silver soldered together and formed to follow the hull curvature. I'll probably use some castello shims to compensate for the missing hull planking. Some adjustments are still needed before I can bolt the gudgeons permanently to the hull. Somehow gudgeon #5 ended up under the transom planking
 
 

 

 
Remco

Thanks all.
 
David B, well the thing is I'm building Admiralty style so as I'm not adding any more planking it looks like the straps are underneath the planking. But if you  look closer you can see small shims I used to compensate for the lack of planking on the lower two gudgeons.
 

 
Remco

Thanks all.
 
David B, well the thing is I'm building Admiralty style so as I'm not adding any more planking it looks like the straps are underneath the planking. But if you  look closer you can see small shims I used to compensate for the lack of planking on the lower two gudgeons.
 

 
Remco

Thanks Augie and Chuck, also thanks for the offer to re-cut the windows. You are right the angle was
off and now makes this an oh crap moment. I adjusted the rear most upright and that corrected the
angle for the rest of the windows.
 
Here is the new angle.
 

 
 
For the roof I had to make shingles and as Chuck described slicing them from a strip of 1/8” boxwood instead of
cutting from a 1/32” sheet was much easier. The pieces are cut a little thinner than 1/32” and then sanded to clean
them up and make them even thinner. The shingles were placed one row at a time. Once dry the tops of the shingles
were sanded smooth to match the roof angle so the next row would sit flat.
 

 

 

 

 

 
This catches me up on the work I had done while my pc was down. Now I have to decide do I rip it all out and get the
new windows at a different angle or continue on and make the columns for between the windows. Hmmmmmm.  

Hi All. Sorry for the delay in posting but between pc problems, the holiday and general family stuff I’ve been a
little busy. That’s not to say I haven’t gotten any modeling done. Well now that I have a new pc and I’m not using
the Admirals laptop and the backup files have been transferred I’ll start getting caught up.
 
I have completed the moldings on the transom and while doing so I noticed a minor problem. Self induced I must say.  
The upper counter is supposed to be uniform from port to starboard. Mine wasn’t! It was easy to correct this but in doing
so it threw off the height of the bottom of the quarter galleries. They are supposed to set on top of the black strake. Mine
will be into the black strake. It was the only way I could correct my error without tearing out the transom and wales. It just
goes to show the relationships between so many portions of the build. Miss on the wales placement and it alters the counter
which alters the quarter galleries.  
 
 

 

 

 
Here you see a set of laser cut lights and trim on laser board that I got from Chuck. This is really nice
stuff. Very thin and delicate but durable. I don’t the gentlest touch but the outer lights survived my
handling.
 
 

 
 

 

 
More to come in a bit.

Thanks all.
 
David B, well the thing is I'm building Admiralty style so as I'm not adding any more planking it looks like the straps are underneath the planking. But if you  look closer you can see small shims I used to compensate for the lack of planking on the lower two gudgeons.
 

 
Remco

Thanks all.
 
David B, well the thing is I'm building Admiralty style so as I'm not adding any more planking it looks like the straps are underneath the planking. But if you  look closer you can see small shims I used to compensate for the lack of planking on the lower two gudgeons.
 

 
Remco

Thanks all.
 
David B, well the thing is I'm building Admiralty style so as I'm not adding any more planking it looks like the straps are underneath the planking. But if you  look closer you can see small shims I used to compensate for the lack of planking on the lower two gudgeons.
 

 
Remco

Thanks all.
 
David B, well the thing is I'm building Admiralty style so as I'm not adding any more planking it looks like the straps are underneath the planking. But if you  look closer you can see small shims I used to compensate for the lack of planking on the lower two gudgeons.
 

 
Remco

Thanks all.
 
David B, well the thing is I'm building Admiralty style so as I'm not adding any more planking it looks like the straps are underneath the planking. But if you  look closer you can see small shims I used to compensate for the lack of planking on the lower two gudgeons.
 

 
Remco

Nigel thanks for your kind comments I am happy that you are enjoying the journey.
 
Druxey, thanks.
 
Mark, in a word Yes. I'm pleased you have found some of these processes useful.
 
Steve and Mark, that make at least three of us
 
Thanks for all the likes
 
Pressing on with the con rods today the first task was to split and solder the brass for the big end bushing, I decided to make these individually so that I could check that it was going to work.
slitting the rod

 

 
soldered ready for machining
 

 
turning down to the flange diameter
 

 
The final bore was done with a 1/8th end mill after first using a centre drill then a 3/64th drill.
 

 
Turning the central part was very tedious with very light cuts and double checking the diameter after each pass of the tool.The bush was then parted off. 
Tthe bore is .125" and the body diameter is .156" so the thickness of the bearing wall is only .0155" and that made me very cautious.
 

 
I used a soldering iron and a pair of tweezers inside the bore to unsolder the bushing, it popped apart very cleanly.
 

 
I turned and hardened a new button for the bottom of the big end of the con rod.
 

 
when everything was cleaned up the moment of truth,...... it fit Yea...a little stiff but not much
 

 
Then I wanted to check the height inside the cylinder and was very pleased with the outcome, I did notice that I plopped the top part of the crankcase on backwards after uploading the photographs... excitement I guess.
 
 
Now I have to repeat the process all over again tomorrow and I also have to relieve the bottoms of the cylinder liners to clear the con rods. I had drawn this in the details but have not done it yet, once that is done tomorrow the the piston with be able to move up and down in a complete cycle
 
 
Michael
 
 
 
 

Thanks all.
 
David B, well the thing is I'm building Admiralty style so as I'm not adding any more planking it looks like the straps are underneath the planking. But if you  look closer you can see small shims I used to compensate for the lack of planking on the lower two gudgeons.
 

 
Remco

Thanks all.
 
David B, well the thing is I'm building Admiralty style so as I'm not adding any more planking it looks like the straps are underneath the planking. But if you  look closer you can see small shims I used to compensate for the lack of planking on the lower two gudgeons.
 

 
Remco

Thanks all.
 
David B, well the thing is I'm building Admiralty style so as I'm not adding any more planking it looks like the straps are underneath the planking. But if you  look closer you can see small shims I used to compensate for the lack of planking on the lower two gudgeons.
 

 
Remco

Thanks all.
 
David B, well the thing is I'm building Admiralty style so as I'm not adding any more planking it looks like the straps are underneath the planking. But if you  look closer you can see small shims I used to compensate for the lack of planking on the lower two gudgeons.
 

 
Remco

Thanks all.
 
David B, well the thing is I'm building Admiralty style so as I'm not adding any more planking it looks like the straps are underneath the planking. But if you  look closer you can see small shims I used to compensate for the lack of planking on the lower two gudgeons.
 

 
Remco

Hi everyone,
 
Well, after a number of rejects, I finally made a master 32 pound cannon for casting. A few details. First, I decided to use the Sherline angle cutting device for the angled cuts, since the angle to the hind of the second reinforce is different from the angle ahead of the reinforce. I used some very handy angle gauges to set the device to the 1 degree and then 1 1/2 degree parts. This was infinitely easier than calculating the tangents of the angles,  and then trial and error setting the angles. The second photo shows setup using the 1 and 1/2 degree gauges.
 
I have a digital readout on my lathe, but this does not work on the angle device. So I had to count turns for distances. To facilitate this, I adapted an old Sherline hand wheel that can reset to 0, turning it down to fit the angle device. This helped enormously with incremental counts down the length of the cannon.
 
And then I drew up a recipe (fourth photo), converting actual scale lengths to numbers of full turns of the hand wheel plus numbers of increments in part of a turn. You can see this in the photo as, for example, 9T 38, which means nine full turns plus 38 increments. Each horizontal and then vertical cut is color coded the same so I could keep track of where I was.
 
Inspired by Michael Mott's machining, I used a center bit in the mill as seen in the first photo, for drilling the hole for the trunnion. This helped keep the hole accurately located while drilling into a curved surface (the trunnion is off center by half its diameter). It worked perfectly. Thanks, Michael!
 
I intend to cast these, so the muzzle mouth has a dowel on it, onto which I will attach a funnel head for making the mold.
 
At last, I can think about making molds!
 
All for now,
 
Mark

Thanks all for helping me to sort this out. 
 
Jan, 0,5 mm copper rod scored with a sharp blade made the screw head.
 
Sorry Grant, no way I can make working screws on this scale
 
So that said, the gudgeons are made, again from brass strip and bar silver soldered together and formed to follow the hull curvature. I'll probably use some castello shims to compensate for the missing hull planking. Some adjustments are still needed before I can bolt the gudgeons permanently to the hull. Somehow gudgeon #5 ended up under the transom planking
 
 

 

 
Remco

A long overdue update, be it small is more than one way
 
The tiller hole was repositioned and the hoops were added
 
The pintles are browned, bolted & screwed to the rudder, (okay I simulated the screws.....)
 

 

 
Next up the Gudgeons, any ideas how long they need to be? TFFM only shows one, are #2 to #5 all the same length?
 
Remco

Thanks all for helping me to sort this out. 
 
Jan, 0,5 mm copper rod scored with a sharp blade made the screw head.
 
Sorry Grant, no way I can make working screws on this scale
 
So that said, the gudgeons are made, again from brass strip and bar silver soldered together and formed to follow the hull curvature. I'll probably use some castello shims to compensate for the missing hull planking. Some adjustments are still needed before I can bolt the gudgeons permanently to the hull. Somehow gudgeon #5 ended up under the transom planking
 
 

 

 
Remco

That's really looking fantastic Remco.
 
Happy New Year!
 
Cheers,

Jan, the bottom of the rudder should be higher than the top of the false keel. Otherwise the false keel (if it comes of when hitting ground) would rip off the rudder in the process. The issue occurred when I marked the hight of the pintles using the pre cut slots on the sternpost. I should have noticed it then  
 
Remco

Thanks all for helping me to sort this out. 
 
Jan, 0,5 mm copper rod scored with a sharp blade made the screw head.
 
Sorry Grant, no way I can make working screws on this scale
 
So that said, the gudgeons are made, again from brass strip and bar silver soldered together and formed to follow the hull curvature. I'll probably use some castello shims to compensate for the missing hull planking. Some adjustments are still needed before I can bolt the gudgeons permanently to the hull. Somehow gudgeon #5 ended up under the transom planking
 
 

 

 
Remco

A long overdue update, be it small is more than one way
 
The tiller hole was repositioned and the hoops were added
 
The pintles are browned, bolted & screwed to the rudder, (okay I simulated the screws.....)
 

 

 
Next up the Gudgeons, any ideas how long they need to be? TFFM only shows one, are #2 to #5 all the same length?
 
Remco

Thanks all for helping me to sort this out. 
 
Jan, 0,5 mm copper rod scored with a sharp blade made the screw head.
 
Sorry Grant, no way I can make working screws on this scale
 
So that said, the gudgeons are made, again from brass strip and bar silver soldered together and formed to follow the hull curvature. I'll probably use some castello shims to compensate for the missing hull planking. Some adjustments are still needed before I can bolt the gudgeons permanently to the hull. Somehow gudgeon #5 ended up under the transom planking
 
 

 

 
Remco