Erik W

I entered into this hobby 6 months ago from a background of decades of model railroading and military modeling, working in plastic, resin, and brass.  One thing I noticed right away was that the quality improvements in most commercially available wooden ship kits have been non-existent or not improved at nearly the same rate as the other hobbies I've been doing.  When I selected the longboat as a first build, I was committed to building it as-is.  The results were fine, but I really wanted to work with better materials on a second build, so chose Chuck's Cheerful.  To me the Cheerful is the best of both words.  The customer buys the materials a-la-carte, so there is no wastage, and they don't need to acquire expensive power tools (and figure out where to house them) if you don't want to.  Clear instructions are also provided for those, like me, who admittedly don't know what they're doing.  If there weren't small, cottage manufacturers like Chuck and Crown Timberyard, I wouldn't be getting into this hobby.
 
To show a visual contrast, here is the stern lantern of the Model Shipways Essex, their newest kit, and what Chuck offers. I'm blown away that in the second decade of the 21th century, a manufacturer would actually include parts like that in their kit.
 
That said, I agree with Blue Ensign, to each their own.  Some of the best results on this forum were kits to start with, and examples of excellent modeling.
 
Erik 

After completing my Battle Station model in 1/24 scale, I was anxious to do another project at that large scale.  An entire ship at 1/24 would require an addition to our house, so I settled on a cross section.  I have plans for the HMS Granado in 1/24, but decided to launch a Triton cross section instead.  As soon as I enlarged the keel plans to 200% I realized a potential problem.  The lines on the plans themselves are 1/32" wide at that size!  I'm going to have to be very careful in sizing parts for this build.
 
I started with a piece of boxwood , dimensioned it on my table saw and thickness sander and cut a shallow kerf on each side for the rabbet.  I enlarged the kerf to a "V" groove with wood carving tools and square edged sanding blocks.  I made the false keel out of rosewood, and the keelson out of swiss pear.  I've posted some photos of my progress.
 
I'm requesting access to the Triton download area so I can continue this build.
 
Dave

Thanks, everyone.
 
Good to hear from you, Robin.  I hope you will soon be feeling better.
 
Frank, a good question.  I believe the best way to have clamped these two pieces would have bee to chuck a length of the spindle and use it to precisely center the two pieces then push up the chuck to clamp them - hopefully not gluing in the spindle piece.  Unfortunately I had not yet turned these, but an improvement would certainly be to turn them first and then use them when boring the hole and in the chuck to clamp the pieces.  I aligned them by feel and this seemed to work OK, but using a positive alignment in the hole would be better.  A good fit here is necessary so the head fits squarely on the spindle.  In retrospect I might also have bored the spindle hole in the lathe either before parting off the top, or after gluing it back on.  The actual spindle could then be used to size the hole.  Good question.
 
Grant, I am no expert and sometimes need to try different things - and scrap some work - to find a solution.  There are some good tips in the Unimat and Sherline instruction manuals and there is also a useful manual sold that uses the Sherline tools in its examples.
 
Ed

As usual very nice work all around Bob, but I especially like how the pumps turned out. 

Awesome Bob.  It looks great!
 
Erik

I've now completed the next segment of the interior detailing. This included four more guns, the pumps, the entry ladders, four deck ringbolts and the interior scupper openings.
 
The guns were made and rigged as on the previous guns.
 
The pumps were made from boxwood strip.  Square pieces were drilled out and then shaped to octagon with sanding sticks. The handles and their mounting brackets were shaped from strip and pieces of wire added. The bands are black painted paper. The drains are bits of black painted tube, inserted in drilled holes.
 
The ladders are boxwood strip. They were very simply made, without use of slotting tools or fancy jigs. As a result, they are certainly not perfect, but after a couple of tries, I was satisfied.
 
The scupper openings are drilled holes, which do not go through to the exterior openings, but match up closely with them. They were painted graphite with a toothpick.
 
The ringbolts again are blackened brass.
 
Bob

Ed,
 
I've been following this build closely, and reading through both of your Young American build logs.  You're doing superb work.  It's a testament to your enthusiasm for this project, your writing style, and you photographing every step, that someone like me, who always was interested exclusively in naval subjects, now has an interest in clipper ships! 
 
Do you plan on rigging both of these?
 
Erik

I built several kits over the years and the main reason was the tools and equipment needed to do it any other way.  I remember doing a Harvey by A&L  the wood was dry brittle and warped and the fittings were horrid.  This was when I started to bash the kit.  I gave the finished model to my mother who was thrilled.  Since then I have bashed every kit I got.  However over the years I was able to accumulate the tools that would help me to replace or rebuild the parts I was not happy with.  At the Chicago clubs we always encouraged kits and working with them.  
David B

I entered into this hobby 6 months ago from a background of decades of model railroading and military modeling, working in plastic, resin, and brass.  One thing I noticed right away was that the quality improvements in most commercially available wooden ship kits have been non-existent or not improved at nearly the same rate as the other hobbies I've been doing.  When I selected the longboat as a first build, I was committed to building it as-is.  The results were fine, but I really wanted to work with better materials on a second build, so chose Chuck's Cheerful.  To me the Cheerful is the best of both words.  The customer buys the materials a-la-carte, so there is no wastage, and they don't need to acquire expensive power tools (and figure out where to house them) if you don't want to.  Clear instructions are also provided for those, like me, who admittedly don't know what they're doing.  If there weren't small, cottage manufacturers like Chuck and Crown Timberyard, I wouldn't be getting into this hobby.
 
To show a visual contrast, here is the stern lantern of the Model Shipways Essex, their newest kit, and what Chuck offers. I'm blown away that in the second decade of the 21th century, a manufacturer would actually include parts like that in their kit.
 
That said, I agree with Blue Ensign, to each their own.  Some of the best results on this forum were kits to start with, and examples of excellent modeling.
 
Erik 

One thing as a consumer I appreciate about the small size of this segment of the hobby, is the interactions between modelers/customers and these small manufactures (who are also modelers), are more personal.  Ship modeling definitely has more of a family feel to it.  That's one of the things that appeals to me.  Ask a manufacturer a question, and you'll quickly get an answer. 
 
That said, I am conscious of the fact that if we all constantly email Chuck, and others, that it takes time away from them making great products for us! 
 
Erik

I entered into this hobby 6 months ago from a background of decades of model railroading and military modeling, working in plastic, resin, and brass.  One thing I noticed right away was that the quality improvements in most commercially available wooden ship kits have been non-existent or not improved at nearly the same rate as the other hobbies I've been doing.  When I selected the longboat as a first build, I was committed to building it as-is.  The results were fine, but I really wanted to work with better materials on a second build, so chose Chuck's Cheerful.  To me the Cheerful is the best of both words.  The customer buys the materials a-la-carte, so there is no wastage, and they don't need to acquire expensive power tools (and figure out where to house them) if you don't want to.  Clear instructions are also provided for those, like me, who admittedly don't know what they're doing.  If there weren't small, cottage manufacturers like Chuck and Crown Timberyard, I wouldn't be getting into this hobby.
 
To show a visual contrast, here is the stern lantern of the Model Shipways Essex, their newest kit, and what Chuck offers. I'm blown away that in the second decade of the 21th century, a manufacturer would actually include parts like that in their kit.
 
That said, I agree with Blue Ensign, to each their own.  Some of the best results on this forum were kits to start with, and examples of excellent modeling.
 
Erik 

Ed,
 
I too learn many valuable tips and techniques from your explanations of your machining methods and set-ups. They make perfect sense when you explain them, but nevertheless fit firmly in the category of, "ahhhh!, Now why couldn't I think of doing something that way?" Thank you for sharing your knowledge, skills and techniques so freely.

Humble beginnings.  I glued the two halves of the false keel together.  The plywood is perfectly flat and straight, so the false keel is absolutely straight.  I added some scrap strip wood for reinforcement along the joint.  I then glued on the 1/8" x 1/16" rabbet strip along the length of the bottom.  I drew the bearding line on the starboard side of the false keel to match the line on the port side.  I'll tweak it a bit before I start removing material.  I also marked each slot, both sides, where the number/lettered bulkheads will go.
 
I threw in a penny and pencil to give an indication of size.

 

 
Erik

Hello Erik,
 
Great start! I know that this is going to be a wonderful build for you as well as for all of us watching.
 
Have fun,
 
Mike

Humble beginnings.  I glued the two halves of the false keel together.  The plywood is perfectly flat and straight, so the false keel is absolutely straight.  I added some scrap strip wood for reinforcement along the joint.  I then glued on the 1/8" x 1/16" rabbet strip along the length of the bottom.  I drew the bearding line on the starboard side of the false keel to match the line on the port side.  I'll tweak it a bit before I start removing material.  I also marked each slot, both sides, where the number/lettered bulkheads will go.
 
I threw in a penny and pencil to give an indication of size.

 

 
Erik

I entered into this hobby 6 months ago from a background of decades of model railroading and military modeling, working in plastic, resin, and brass.  One thing I noticed right away was that the quality improvements in most commercially available wooden ship kits have been non-existent or not improved at nearly the same rate as the other hobbies I've been doing.  When I selected the longboat as a first build, I was committed to building it as-is.  The results were fine, but I really wanted to work with better materials on a second build, so chose Chuck's Cheerful.  To me the Cheerful is the best of both words.  The customer buys the materials a-la-carte, so there is no wastage, and they don't need to acquire expensive power tools (and figure out where to house them) if you don't want to.  Clear instructions are also provided for those, like me, who admittedly don't know what they're doing.  If there weren't small, cottage manufacturers like Chuck and Crown Timberyard, I wouldn't be getting into this hobby.
 
To show a visual contrast, here is the stern lantern of the Model Shipways Essex, their newest kit, and what Chuck offers. I'm blown away that in the second decade of the 21th century, a manufacturer would actually include parts like that in their kit.
 
That said, I agree with Blue Ensign, to each their own.  Some of the best results on this forum were kits to start with, and examples of excellent modeling.
 
Erik 

Mike,  Y
 
Yes!  I know sailors are a superstitious group, so I can see how that would extend to those of us that build ships.  The White Towel might be the secret!     One great thing about jumping into the Cheerful build now is that I can learn from other's endeavors.  Between that and The White Towel, I'll be unstoppable!
 
I'm glad to have other folks following my build.  It helps me motivate!
 
Erik

Erik, I'll follow your log with great interest. If I see you longboat, I am qiute sure that you'l build an excellent model. Chucks drawings compared with the originals from the NMM are outstanding

Christian,
 
Thanks for the kinds words!  I'm happy with the results.  And I'm looking forward to making progress on my more involved second build, HM Cheerful: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/12512-hm-cutter-cheerful-1806-by-erik-w-148-scale/?p=378598

Erik

One thing as a consumer I appreciate about the small size of this segment of the hobby, is the interactions between modelers/customers and these small manufactures (who are also modelers), are more personal.  Ship modeling definitely has more of a family feel to it.  That's one of the things that appeals to me.  Ask a manufacturer a question, and you'll quickly get an answer. 
 
That said, I am conscious of the fact that if we all constantly email Chuck, and others, that it takes time away from them making great products for us! 
 
Erik

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 133 – Capstans 1
 
Young America had two capstans, one aft of midship on the main deck and one on the forecastle.  These were lighter and smaller than the massive two-deck capstans we are used to seeing on 18th century warships.  Since the windlass handled the weighing of the anchors, the two capstans were used for lesser loads, for example mooring, raising spars or heavy cargo handling.  These were often ornate, featuring polished brass rings and made of decorative woods like mahogany.  I based the design of the model anchors on American styles described by Campbell in his China Tea Clippers and by Crothers on his drawings of the ship.  I will try to provide an (admittedly incomplete) overview of how these were made.
 
The first step was to make the drumheads.  A picture of one of the finished drumheads mounted on its spindle is shown in the first picture.
 

 
The drumhead, and indeed all the wood parts for these are cherry for the darker color.  The rings and cap are polished brass.  The holes for the capstan bars are 3” square.  The parts are laid on a copy of the drawing made for these – one of the earlier of many revisions.  The realities of working many of the planned details at this scale – like mortises for the whelps, etc. caused me to simplify some of the construction while retaining the essential appearance.
 
The first drumhead parts to be made were the brass rings and caps, so these could be fit to the wood head as it was machined.  The next picture shows one of the rings about to be parted off in the Unimat® lathe.
 

 
The central shaft left in this picture would be used to make the caps.  The next picture shows the rings made for the two capstans plus a spare.
 

 
In the next picture a cylinder is being turned that will be used to make the two cherry heads. 
 

 
The excess length was provided to allow for chucking pieces for each head.  The grain direction of the piece shown is perpendicular to the lathe centerline.  The turning is centered at the tailstock.  Precise centering of these for turning the ring seats and boring the hole for the spindle was critical so that all would be concentric.  The cylinder at this stage was left larger than the 34” diameter drumhead.  In the next picture the first piece is being parted off.
 

 
In the next picture one of the cylinders has been placed in a three-jaw centering chuck on the rotating table on the milling machine and is being centered on the spindle.
 

 
The dial indicator mounted in the spindle was used to center the cylinder within one or two thousandths of an inch using the cross feeds on the mill.  In the next picture a center hole has been bored and the 1/8” milling bits is being used to enlarge the hole to the 14” diameter of the capstan spindle.
 

 
This was done by offsetting the y-feed to the enlarged size then boring the hole by rotating the table.  The rotating table and the y-feed were then used to cut mortises for the capstan bars as shown below.
 

 
The 1/32” end mill was lowered 3” into the end and set using the vertical calibrated mill wheel (z-axis).  When the four cuts (8 slots) were finished, the piece with the chuck was returned to the lathe as shown in the next picture.
 

 
In the picture an oversized top piece is being parted off.  After cleaning out the slots with a small square edged file, the cap was inverted and glued to the cylinder in the lathe as shown below.
 

 
The glue joint is clamped using the flat end of the drill chuck screwed tight with the tail stock wheel.  When dry, this piece was ready for turning the final diameter, fitting the rings, shaping the top, and parting off to yield the piece shown in the first picture.  To be continued…
 
Ed
 

I entered into this hobby 6 months ago from a background of decades of model railroading and military modeling, working in plastic, resin, and brass.  One thing I noticed right away was that the quality improvements in most commercially available wooden ship kits have been non-existent or not improved at nearly the same rate as the other hobbies I've been doing.  When I selected the longboat as a first build, I was committed to building it as-is.  The results were fine, but I really wanted to work with better materials on a second build, so chose Chuck's Cheerful.  To me the Cheerful is the best of both words.  The customer buys the materials a-la-carte, so there is no wastage, and they don't need to acquire expensive power tools (and figure out where to house them) if you don't want to.  Clear instructions are also provided for those, like me, who admittedly don't know what they're doing.  If there weren't small, cottage manufacturers like Chuck and Crown Timberyard, I wouldn't be getting into this hobby.
 
To show a visual contrast, here is the stern lantern of the Model Shipways Essex, their newest kit, and what Chuck offers. I'm blown away that in the second decade of the 21th century, a manufacturer would actually include parts like that in their kit.
 
That said, I agree with Blue Ensign, to each their own.  Some of the best results on this forum were kits to start with, and examples of excellent modeling.
 
Erik 

The building board for my model is finished. I use a design really similiar to that what Ed has shown in chapter 4 of his HMS Naiad build log.
 
For my building board I used 12mm birch plywood. The base board has a size of 120 x 50 cm. For the supporting bars I've chosen a height of 10 cm.

 
On the baseboard I screwed 4 boards from 6mm birch plywood to fix two aluminum rails because I don't have a mill to cut the gap for these. For the centerline I inked one longitudinal edge of the middle plates with black acrylic paint. After brushing the surface with white acrylic paint the center line was made visible with a scalpel blade that was dragged along the edge.

The keel is laid down.

The picture shows the current version compared with the old keel in 1/48.



Due to the larger scale it is much easier to display small details such as the treenails to scale correctly.



The next steps in the construction of the complete keel arrangement are the same as described in my old build log. I will only change some smaller details.
 

Its not about offending anyone...its just that a beginner needs time to develop the expertise to recognize what is better or what is sub par.  This only happens with the passing of time and learning.  The other ingredient is passion.  The willingness to want to "upgrade" has to do with how passionate one is about the hobby as they progress...as well as budget.   You would not believe how many times I am asked by a beginner why my blocks have two holes and not just one.  Most dont yet realize or ahve not learned yet that its because the two holes simulate a sheave. It more accurately reflects the true shape and function of a block.  Once they learn that they can make a better choice as to whether it is worth the money for increasing accuracy and the overall look and feel.
 
It takes time and kit companies know this.   So with the overwhelming majority of builders being new or intermediate they cant possibly get folks to try and take the initial plunge if all the kits were filled with exceptional parts.   For those who do have the expertise and grow to be passionate enough about the hobby....there are places to go...like the Lumberyard and Syren.   Its a much smaller group of customers.  Both have their place...its no different than any other hobby.  The typical larger kit company will never produce a kit with parts like I make....it cant be done.  They wouldnt be a large company with so many customers if they did.  Thats why I am a small company with many less customers.  
 
You can sell 500 kits of the Sultana per year or 35 Cheerful packages......different audiences at different levels of the hobby .  Its the same for all hobbies.  I could have made one phone call to Model Expo and sold my Cheerful Kit design in a heartbeat.  But my guess is they want to sell more than 35 per year and what you would end up getting would be much different than what I currently offer....for the same reasons.  Its nothing to be shocked about.  Its just the way it is and always will be.