Erik W

A few quiet minutes between the holidays can be usefully filled...😀
 
Equipment of the mizzen topsail yard – Vergue de perroquet de fouge
In the meantime I have started equipping the mizzen topsail yard of the La Créole. The first step was to make the necessary blocks and thimbles, as shown in the first picture.


The tye block has a length of 5 mm and is therefore the largest block at the mizzen topsail yard.


The next picture shows the size ratio of the tye block of the mizzen topsail yard to the tye block of the mizzen topsail yard. The difference is clear, as the mizzen topsail yard itself is significantly smaller and therefore lighter.


In the last picture the first rigging elements are already attached, such as the tye block with the stropped blocks for the bunt lines, the truss and the quarter blocks.


I cannot tell from the images available to me to what extent the mizzen topsail yard was equipped with a jackstay. I can't find any information about this in the monograph either. Nevertheless, I tend to equip the mizzen topsail yard with a jackstay.
Up soon …
 
Wish you all a happy new year!

Thanks for all the 'likes" folks.  I spent the last week building the companionway, so I'm now finished with the deck fittings that will be placed along the center line before planking the deck.  For the companionway I used pencil to darken the board seams.  I also slightly beveled the edges of where the companionway lid and doors are hinged.  I applied several layers of much thinned red paint that allowed the board seams to show through.  After painting was complete, I used a pin wash made of black oil paint thinned with Turpenoid that I applied to the hinged joints in the lid and doors, as well as around the bottom and side edges of the doors.  Annnnnnd  . . . . you can't really see any of all that effort in the photos.  Super frustrating!  I must've taken 30 photos of the finished companionway, with different background colors, and lighting and lighting angles, trying to show the board seams showing through the semi-opaque red paint.  What you see is the best I could come up with.  The funny thing is the board seams are so pronounced when viewing in person that I had seriously considered painting one more coat of red over the whole thing, particularly on the lid (which you don't see any seams at all in these photos).  And I was worried the black wash was too pronounced.  None of which you can see in the photos.  Can you tell I'm still annoyed?  Haha.
 
At any rate, the next step is gluing all these deck fitting on to the deck.  Some other Cheerful build logs have good advice on getting these aligned correctly.  After that, it's on to deck planking.
 
Erik

Druxey, Thanks for the kind words.  One thing I like about the manual low-tech approach, being relatively new to the hobby, is it has helped me really understand the strengths and weaknesses of the boxwood I'm working with, and what it can and can't do.  There really is something special about working with wood, as compared to styrene, plastic, resin, etc.  It's hard to put into words, but there's an added level of enjoyment that working with the wood provides.
 
Erik

Thanks for all the 'likes" folks.  I spent the last week building the companionway, so I'm now finished with the deck fittings that will be placed along the center line before planking the deck.  For the companionway I used pencil to darken the board seams.  I also slightly beveled the edges of where the companionway lid and doors are hinged.  I applied several layers of much thinned red paint that allowed the board seams to show through.  After painting was complete, I used a pin wash made of black oil paint thinned with Turpenoid that I applied to the hinged joints in the lid and doors, as well as around the bottom and side edges of the doors.  Annnnnnd  . . . . you can't really see any of all that effort in the photos.  Super frustrating!  I must've taken 30 photos of the finished companionway, with different background colors, and lighting and lighting angles, trying to show the board seams showing through the semi-opaque red paint.  What you see is the best I could come up with.  The funny thing is the board seams are so pronounced when viewing in person that I had seriously considered painting one more coat of red over the whole thing, particularly on the lid (which you don't see any seams at all in these photos).  And I was worried the black wash was too pronounced.  None of which you can see in the photos.  Can you tell I'm still annoyed?  Haha.
 
At any rate, the next step is gluing all these deck fitting on to the deck.  Some other Cheerful build logs have good advice on getting these aligned correctly.  After that, it's on to deck planking.
 
Erik

Thanks for all the 'likes" folks.  I spent the last week building the companionway, so I'm now finished with the deck fittings that will be placed along the center line before planking the deck.  For the companionway I used pencil to darken the board seams.  I also slightly beveled the edges of where the companionway lid and doors are hinged.  I applied several layers of much thinned red paint that allowed the board seams to show through.  After painting was complete, I used a pin wash made of black oil paint thinned with Turpenoid that I applied to the hinged joints in the lid and doors, as well as around the bottom and side edges of the doors.  Annnnnnd  . . . . you can't really see any of all that effort in the photos.  Super frustrating!  I must've taken 30 photos of the finished companionway, with different background colors, and lighting and lighting angles, trying to show the board seams showing through the semi-opaque red paint.  What you see is the best I could come up with.  The funny thing is the board seams are so pronounced when viewing in person that I had seriously considered painting one more coat of red over the whole thing, particularly on the lid (which you don't see any seams at all in these photos).  And I was worried the black wash was too pronounced.  None of which you can see in the photos.  Can you tell I'm still annoyed?  Haha.
 
At any rate, the next step is gluing all these deck fitting on to the deck.  Some other Cheerful build logs have good advice on getting these aligned correctly.  After that, it's on to deck planking.
 
Erik

I had great fun making the companionway, yours looks good pin wash or not. 

Keep up the momentum. It’s looking great Erik. 
Steve

Thanks for all the 'likes" folks.  I spent the last week building the companionway, so I'm now finished with the deck fittings that will be placed along the center line before planking the deck.  For the companionway I used pencil to darken the board seams.  I also slightly beveled the edges of where the companionway lid and doors are hinged.  I applied several layers of much thinned red paint that allowed the board seams to show through.  After painting was complete, I used a pin wash made of black oil paint thinned with Turpenoid that I applied to the hinged joints in the lid and doors, as well as around the bottom and side edges of the doors.  Annnnnnd  . . . . you can't really see any of all that effort in the photos.  Super frustrating!  I must've taken 30 photos of the finished companionway, with different background colors, and lighting and lighting angles, trying to show the board seams showing through the semi-opaque red paint.  What you see is the best I could come up with.  The funny thing is the board seams are so pronounced when viewing in person that I had seriously considered painting one more coat of red over the whole thing, particularly on the lid (which you don't see any seams at all in these photos).  And I was worried the black wash was too pronounced.  None of which you can see in the photos.  Can you tell I'm still annoyed?  Haha.
 
At any rate, the next step is gluing all these deck fitting on to the deck.  Some other Cheerful build logs have good advice on getting these aligned correctly.  After that, it's on to deck planking.
 
Erik

Thanks for all the 'likes" folks.  I spent the last week building the companionway, so I'm now finished with the deck fittings that will be placed along the center line before planking the deck.  For the companionway I used pencil to darken the board seams.  I also slightly beveled the edges of where the companionway lid and doors are hinged.  I applied several layers of much thinned red paint that allowed the board seams to show through.  After painting was complete, I used a pin wash made of black oil paint thinned with Turpenoid that I applied to the hinged joints in the lid and doors, as well as around the bottom and side edges of the doors.  Annnnnnd  . . . . you can't really see any of all that effort in the photos.  Super frustrating!  I must've taken 30 photos of the finished companionway, with different background colors, and lighting and lighting angles, trying to show the board seams showing through the semi-opaque red paint.  What you see is the best I could come up with.  The funny thing is the board seams are so pronounced when viewing in person that I had seriously considered painting one more coat of red over the whole thing, particularly on the lid (which you don't see any seams at all in these photos).  And I was worried the black wash was too pronounced.  None of which you can see in the photos.  Can you tell I'm still annoyed?  Haha.
 
At any rate, the next step is gluing all these deck fitting on to the deck.  Some other Cheerful build logs have good advice on getting these aligned correctly.  After that, it's on to deck planking.
 
Erik

Thanks for all the 'likes" folks.  I spent the last week building the companionway, so I'm now finished with the deck fittings that will be placed along the center line before planking the deck.  For the companionway I used pencil to darken the board seams.  I also slightly beveled the edges of where the companionway lid and doors are hinged.  I applied several layers of much thinned red paint that allowed the board seams to show through.  After painting was complete, I used a pin wash made of black oil paint thinned with Turpenoid that I applied to the hinged joints in the lid and doors, as well as around the bottom and side edges of the doors.  Annnnnnd  . . . . you can't really see any of all that effort in the photos.  Super frustrating!  I must've taken 30 photos of the finished companionway, with different background colors, and lighting and lighting angles, trying to show the board seams showing through the semi-opaque red paint.  What you see is the best I could come up with.  The funny thing is the board seams are so pronounced when viewing in person that I had seriously considered painting one more coat of red over the whole thing, particularly on the lid (which you don't see any seams at all in these photos).  And I was worried the black wash was too pronounced.  None of which you can see in the photos.  Can you tell I'm still annoyed?  Haha.
 
At any rate, the next step is gluing all these deck fitting on to the deck.  Some other Cheerful build logs have good advice on getting these aligned correctly.  After that, it's on to deck planking.
 
Erik

Thanks for all the 'likes" folks.  I spent the last week building the companionway, so I'm now finished with the deck fittings that will be placed along the center line before planking the deck.  For the companionway I used pencil to darken the board seams.  I also slightly beveled the edges of where the companionway lid and doors are hinged.  I applied several layers of much thinned red paint that allowed the board seams to show through.  After painting was complete, I used a pin wash made of black oil paint thinned with Turpenoid that I applied to the hinged joints in the lid and doors, as well as around the bottom and side edges of the doors.  Annnnnnd  . . . . you can't really see any of all that effort in the photos.  Super frustrating!  I must've taken 30 photos of the finished companionway, with different background colors, and lighting and lighting angles, trying to show the board seams showing through the semi-opaque red paint.  What you see is the best I could come up with.  The funny thing is the board seams are so pronounced when viewing in person that I had seriously considered painting one more coat of red over the whole thing, particularly on the lid (which you don't see any seams at all in these photos).  And I was worried the black wash was too pronounced.  None of which you can see in the photos.  Can you tell I'm still annoyed?  Haha.
 
At any rate, the next step is gluing all these deck fitting on to the deck.  Some other Cheerful build logs have good advice on getting these aligned correctly.  After that, it's on to deck planking.
 
Erik

Thanks for all the 'likes" folks.  I spent the last week building the companionway, so I'm now finished with the deck fittings that will be placed along the center line before planking the deck.  For the companionway I used pencil to darken the board seams.  I also slightly beveled the edges of where the companionway lid and doors are hinged.  I applied several layers of much thinned red paint that allowed the board seams to show through.  After painting was complete, I used a pin wash made of black oil paint thinned with Turpenoid that I applied to the hinged joints in the lid and doors, as well as around the bottom and side edges of the doors.  Annnnnnd  . . . . you can't really see any of all that effort in the photos.  Super frustrating!  I must've taken 30 photos of the finished companionway, with different background colors, and lighting and lighting angles, trying to show the board seams showing through the semi-opaque red paint.  What you see is the best I could come up with.  The funny thing is the board seams are so pronounced when viewing in person that I had seriously considered painting one more coat of red over the whole thing, particularly on the lid (which you don't see any seams at all in these photos).  And I was worried the black wash was too pronounced.  None of which you can see in the photos.  Can you tell I'm still annoyed?  Haha.
 
At any rate, the next step is gluing all these deck fitting on to the deck.  Some other Cheerful build logs have good advice on getting these aligned correctly.  After that, it's on to deck planking.
 
Erik

Thanks for all the 'likes" folks.  I spent the last week building the companionway, so I'm now finished with the deck fittings that will be placed along the center line before planking the deck.  For the companionway I used pencil to darken the board seams.  I also slightly beveled the edges of where the companionway lid and doors are hinged.  I applied several layers of much thinned red paint that allowed the board seams to show through.  After painting was complete, I used a pin wash made of black oil paint thinned with Turpenoid that I applied to the hinged joints in the lid and doors, as well as around the bottom and side edges of the doors.  Annnnnnd  . . . . you can't really see any of all that effort in the photos.  Super frustrating!  I must've taken 30 photos of the finished companionway, with different background colors, and lighting and lighting angles, trying to show the board seams showing through the semi-opaque red paint.  What you see is the best I could come up with.  The funny thing is the board seams are so pronounced when viewing in person that I had seriously considered painting one more coat of red over the whole thing, particularly on the lid (which you don't see any seams at all in these photos).  And I was worried the black wash was too pronounced.  None of which you can see in the photos.  Can you tell I'm still annoyed?  Haha.
 
At any rate, the next step is gluing all these deck fitting on to the deck.  Some other Cheerful build logs have good advice on getting these aligned correctly.  After that, it's on to deck planking.
 
Erik

Good day all,
Starboardside chapter 3 finished. Hopefully chapter 3 finished these Christmas Holidays…
I added some extra fancy molding above the QG windows as my roof and fancy molding was a little high and I didn’t like the large blue space above these windows. Also on the contemporary model I spotted something that looks more or less the same…
The roof and channels are not glued on permanently yet ofcourse!
Frank.

...and the pedestals are done.
I left a wee bit extra material at the foot and more again at the head so it can be adjusted to fit the space when the time comes.
All is stored away at the moment.
As I might not post again until the new year I would like to thank all those that have been following, visiting occasionally, and offering encouragement.
Wishing all a very Merry Christmas and a most enjoyable New Years!
 

Mike,
 
My plan is once I fasten the skylight in place and begin the planking around it, I'll make the final call at that point.  Obviously, if I chose to, repainting the corners will only take a few seconds.
 
Erik

Over the last week I finished the larger grating, the small coaming for the galley stack, and built the skylight mini kit.  I got the idea to paint the inside of the skylight black, as well as the framing underneath the skylight below the false deck.  Once complete, I didn't like the completely blacked out interior though.  It made the skylight look like the glass panels were painted gloss black rather than being clear, since there was absolutely nothing visible inside.  So . . . I painted the interior of the skylight wood color and will put a small planked section low down in the framing underneath the skylight.  It's a subtle thing that no one will consciously notice when viewing the ship, but by having something visible inside the skylight area it hints at an interior, rather than a completely black void.  Live and learn.  Also, I test fit planking around the skylight and didn't like the look of the 90 degree red corners at deck level after rounding off the coaming corners, so I carefully scraped the red paint off.  It looks a little funny now, but will look sharp and clean when the decking is complete.
 
Erik

Over the last week I finished the larger grating, the small coaming for the galley stack, and built the skylight mini kit.  I got the idea to paint the inside of the skylight black, as well as the framing underneath the skylight below the false deck.  Once complete, I didn't like the completely blacked out interior though.  It made the skylight look like the glass panels were painted gloss black rather than being clear, since there was absolutely nothing visible inside.  So . . . I painted the interior of the skylight wood color and will put a small planked section low down in the framing underneath the skylight.  It's a subtle thing that no one will consciously notice when viewing the ship, but by having something visible inside the skylight area it hints at an interior, rather than a completely black void.  Live and learn.  Also, I test fit planking around the skylight and didn't like the look of the 90 degree red corners at deck level after rounding off the coaming corners, so I carefully scraped the red paint off.  It looks a little funny now, but will look sharp and clean when the decking is complete.
 
Erik

Over the last week I finished the larger grating, the small coaming for the galley stack, and built the skylight mini kit.  I got the idea to paint the inside of the skylight black, as well as the framing underneath the skylight below the false deck.  Once complete, I didn't like the completely blacked out interior though.  It made the skylight look like the glass panels were painted gloss black rather than being clear, since there was absolutely nothing visible inside.  So . . . I painted the interior of the skylight wood color and will put a small planked section low down in the framing underneath the skylight.  It's a subtle thing that no one will consciously notice when viewing the ship, but by having something visible inside the skylight area it hints at an interior, rather than a completely black void.  Live and learn.  Also, I test fit planking around the skylight and didn't like the look of the 90 degree red corners at deck level after rounding off the coaming corners, so I carefully scraped the red paint off.  It looks a little funny now, but will look sharp and clean when the decking is complete.
 
Erik

Hello,
wish everyone here in the forum a .
Completion: Equipping the fore topsail yard - footropes and stirrups / Marchepieds et étriers etc.
By pulling in and tensioning the lanyard, the two halves of the jackstay were tensioned. The loose end of the ropge was carefully wrapped around the lanyard and tightened, as shown in various historical drawings.

 
The footropes and stirrups for this yard were then made in the same way as for the main topsail yard, but with slightly reduced rope diameters.
The following picture shows the already prepared stirrups. Thimbles are spliced into one end of them, through which the rope of the footrope will later be pulled. The other ends were formed with served eye splices, which are then lashed to the jackstay.

 
The next picture shows the finished footropes with details.

 
I continued with the lower blocks for clewlines l = 3.5 mm and the toggles to connect them to the topgallant sheets. As already mentioned, I made these from dogwood, a very hard and fine-grained wood, which is ideal for these small parts.

 
The following picture shows the stropped blocks for the clewlines, one is connected to a sheet. Next to it is a block for the main braces for comparison.

 
Here you can see the stropped blocks for the braces before they are placed on the yardarms.

 
Here you can see how the studding sail booms are attached.

 
The next pictures show the fore topsail yard equipped with the necessary elements for rigging. 

 
 
Last but not least, a picture of the yards fitted out so far.
Quite a jumble... 😊 

 
We continue with the cross yard. 
To be continued ... 

Made and fitted the lowest breasthook to the stempost/bow. Started with fitting a cardboard template. Traced that onto my blank and cut it on the scroll saw. Fitted again then sanded the bevel. Dry fitted in photo below.

Over the last week I finished the larger grating, the small coaming for the galley stack, and built the skylight mini kit.  I got the idea to paint the inside of the skylight black, as well as the framing underneath the skylight below the false deck.  Once complete, I didn't like the completely blacked out interior though.  It made the skylight look like the glass panels were painted gloss black rather than being clear, since there was absolutely nothing visible inside.  So . . . I painted the interior of the skylight wood color and will put a small planked section low down in the framing underneath the skylight.  It's a subtle thing that no one will consciously notice when viewing the ship, but by having something visible inside the skylight area it hints at an interior, rather than a completely black void.  Live and learn.  Also, I test fit planking around the skylight and didn't like the look of the 90 degree red corners at deck level after rounding off the coaming corners, so I carefully scraped the red paint off.  It looks a little funny now, but will look sharp and clean when the decking is complete.
 
Erik

Over the last week I finished the larger grating, the small coaming for the galley stack, and built the skylight mini kit.  I got the idea to paint the inside of the skylight black, as well as the framing underneath the skylight below the false deck.  Once complete, I didn't like the completely blacked out interior though.  It made the skylight look like the glass panels were painted gloss black rather than being clear, since there was absolutely nothing visible inside.  So . . . I painted the interior of the skylight wood color and will put a small planked section low down in the framing underneath the skylight.  It's a subtle thing that no one will consciously notice when viewing the ship, but by having something visible inside the skylight area it hints at an interior, rather than a completely black void.  Live and learn.  Also, I test fit planking around the skylight and didn't like the look of the 90 degree red corners at deck level after rounding off the coaming corners, so I carefully scraped the red paint off.  It looks a little funny now, but will look sharp and clean when the decking is complete.
 
Erik

Over the last week I finished the larger grating, the small coaming for the galley stack, and built the skylight mini kit.  I got the idea to paint the inside of the skylight black, as well as the framing underneath the skylight below the false deck.  Once complete, I didn't like the completely blacked out interior though.  It made the skylight look like the glass panels were painted gloss black rather than being clear, since there was absolutely nothing visible inside.  So . . . I painted the interior of the skylight wood color and will put a small planked section low down in the framing underneath the skylight.  It's a subtle thing that no one will consciously notice when viewing the ship, but by having something visible inside the skylight area it hints at an interior, rather than a completely black void.  Live and learn.  Also, I test fit planking around the skylight and didn't like the look of the 90 degree red corners at deck level after rounding off the coaming corners, so I carefully scraped the red paint off.  It looks a little funny now, but will look sharp and clean when the decking is complete.
 
Erik

On mine the corners of the skylight are much less rounded than the coamings making the square off for the planking barely visible. As you noted, whatever works for you with your more rounded corners.