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Mumin

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Everything posted by Mumin

  1. To prevent this you can impregnate the paper with undercoat (primer) varnish. Just cover the whole sheets, before cutting out individual parts. In Poland the brand of choice is "Capon" (nitrocellulose based), but I guess any will do. Just test on the scrap paper (e.g. cutouts with the part numbers) -- the varnish can dissolve the printing ink.
  2. Looks like HobbyZone introduced another model. Smaller (60cm vs 100) and simpler, but for half the price: http://www.hobbyzone.pl/en/boat-building-tools/105-small-building-slip.html
  3. Actually it's "home of paper [models]". "Paper house" would be "бумажный дом" (bumazhnyi dom). The model looks promising and with all other options available maybe you will have the full battle of Tsushima diorama? Mumin
  4. With butapren you apply the glue to both surfaces, then wait about 15-20min until the glue dries. Only then you put the parts together and the glue bonds immediately. So there is no squeeze out. As the glue is water resistant, you cannot remove it with water. The excess glue can be removed with acetone or benzine (petroleum ether), but only before it cures. Solid glue can be removed by scraping. You cannot use the sandpaper, as the glue is elastic.
  5. There is also Polish manufacturer Bojer (family owned, the main person is Jerzy Borwiński, the name of the company is a bit misleading, meaning "sand/ice yachting"). They have four models up to date, all lasercut in 1:40 scale. The quality (what I have read on forums) is above average comparing to European biggies (AL, Occre, Amati).
  6. And the suitcases. And the chairs. And the grand piano. All this while the ship was lying at an angle of 80° on the side. Seems legit...
  7. The single most expensive element of the shipmodeling is the modeler's time. Take your average overtime wage, multiply by 0,5-1 hour daily times 5-10 years spent on the model. Several hundred $$ spent on the kit is just peanuts in comparison. So replacing every substandard piece of the kit (and actually saving the time it would require to bring it to acceptable quality) makes sense in economic terms.
  8. Good luck with this kit, it looks great and has somewhat unorthodox hull construction. Take a look at those links, may come handy: Photo build log: https://plus.google.com/photos/118352369589541721632/albums/5931202021827923873 Build log (in Russian, but lots of photos): http://forum.modelsworld.ru/topic13249.html Actually they have the whole forum on this model: http://forum.modelsworld.ru/forum110.html
  9. The procedure is as follows: First they calculate the custom fee (according to the type of merchandise, for some -- eg. toys and toy parts -- the fee is 0%). Then if applicable, they add the excise tax (I belive it concerns only alcohol/tobacco and such). Then they calculate the VAT on everything (value of the goods+customs+shipping). And post/courier service adds its own fee. In Poland the parcels of total (i.e. including shipping) value below 150€ are free of these taxes. I don't know, if this limit is the same for all EU. The official EU page lists the custom fee as 2.7% http://ec.europa.eu/taxation_customs/dds2/taric/measures.jsp?Lang=en&SimDate=20151116&Area=US&Taric=8465912000&LangDescr=en
  10. I would guess that 17000 is for very small bit diameter. General rule (as I understand) is the smaller the size and the softer material, the higher the rate.
  11. The manual of my 'dremel-ish' tool has a neat table with suggested speeds: Soft metal cutting 33,000rpm Wood grinding 31 Hard metal cutting 29 Metal engraving 25 Smoothing of sharp or uneven edges 21 Drilling 17 Rust removal 13 Tool sharpening 9 Polishing 5 You yould also find those helpful: http://mdm.boschwebservices.com/files/Dremel%20Rotary%20Tool%20Bit%20100,%20105,%20106,%20107,%20108,%20109,%20110,%20111,%20112,%20113,%20_%20(EN)%20r22502v55.jpg https://www.dremel.com/en-au/customerservice/ManualsAndLiterature/Documents/08-09%20Accessory%20Guide%20Poster.pdf
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