michael mott

I think we have forgotten just how skilled many craftsmen and skilled artisans were in the past. I believe that their skill was predicated on a greater amount of time honing their skills and being taught the value of doing a job with the greatest care and attention, and not necessarily the fastest cheapest way. 
 
250 years ago some extremely fine optical and scientific instruments were made, not to mention clocks and watches, so I am not surprised by the quality of work done then.  I am more surprised by that same quality today.
 
We seem to be living in an instant world that is in a constant hurry to finish everything at the lowest cost. What I find so refreshing about this hobby is that this hurry is for the most part ignored.
 
Michael

I think we have forgotten just how skilled many craftsmen and skilled artisans were in the past. I believe that their skill was predicated on a greater amount of time honing their skills and being taught the value of doing a job with the greatest care and attention, and not necessarily the fastest cheapest way. 
 
250 years ago some extremely fine optical and scientific instruments were made, not to mention clocks and watches, so I am not surprised by the quality of work done then.  I am more surprised by that same quality today.
 
We seem to be living in an instant world that is in a constant hurry to finish everything at the lowest cost. What I find so refreshing about this hobby is that this hurry is for the most part ignored.
 
Michael

Any tool that is purchased and not used!
 
The whole Metric/Imperial debate is funny. The martians were laughing all the way to Jupiter eating their fig newtons about that crash.
 
A bigger issue than Imperial /Metric is Chinese language versus English or Malian or Hindi or Turkish or Russian. Were all different it's a big world and it would be so boring if we all used the same language and measuring systems, there would be nothing to debate.
 
All this is better than pointing sticks at each other though.
 
Michael

I think we have forgotten just how skilled many craftsmen and skilled artisans were in the past. I believe that their skill was predicated on a greater amount of time honing their skills and being taught the value of doing a job with the greatest care and attention, and not necessarily the fastest cheapest way. 
 
250 years ago some extremely fine optical and scientific instruments were made, not to mention clocks and watches, so I am not surprised by the quality of work done then.  I am more surprised by that same quality today.
 
We seem to be living in an instant world that is in a constant hurry to finish everything at the lowest cost. What I find so refreshing about this hobby is that this hurry is for the most part ignored.
 
Michael

It would be kinda tough to measure out to 5 significant places.     When I was in Engineering the rule was:  "Measure with a laser inferometer.  Mark it with a piece of chalk.  And cut it with an axe."    

Rob perhaps if you cut them into shorter lengths then you could first of all split them in half with and ax and a small heavy hammer.
Take say an 16 inch pieces which is approx 600 mm place the axe squarely across the centre of the log and hit the back of the axe with the hammer this will split the log lengthwise into two halves, take each of the halves and split them up into quarters. you can then set your axe to a position that is about 30mm  parallel to one of the first split faces and repeat the splitting. I have done this on quite a few occasions, and the advantage is that the wood slits along the grain which relieves some of the inherent stresses the wood dries quite well this way.
 
Here is a series of pictures that i just took perhaps 15 minutes worth of time to cut a 200mm log of wet aspen
 sorry I did not have any other on hand.
 

1 chainsawed the knot off the end

2 chainsawed about 14 inches of straight grain

3 Set axe across centre.

4use hammer to split wood

5 two halves ready to be quartered

6 set axe to approx 30mm and split again

7 and again

8 veiw showing the quarter cutting no sawdust yet other than the chainsaw

9 Piece clamped ready to smooth out a little prior to sticking

 few wet shavings the piece is ready to dry.
 
Ron think about how long you really need the wood to be, most of us cut the wood up into shorter lengths anyway and a 12 -15 inch 300 to 400 mm length is easy to split with an axe.
 
I hope this helps. good luck with the wood.
 
Michael
 
 

Rob perhaps if you cut them into shorter lengths then you could first of all split them in half with and ax and a small heavy hammer.
Take say an 16 inch pieces which is approx 600 mm place the axe squarely across the centre of the log and hit the back of the axe with the hammer this will split the log lengthwise into two halves, take each of the halves and split them up into quarters. you can then set your axe to a position that is about 30mm  parallel to one of the first split faces and repeat the splitting. I have done this on quite a few occasions, and the advantage is that the wood slits along the grain which relieves some of the inherent stresses the wood dries quite well this way.
 
Here is a series of pictures that i just took perhaps 15 minutes worth of time to cut a 200mm log of wet aspen
 sorry I did not have any other on hand.
 

1 chainsawed the knot off the end

2 chainsawed about 14 inches of straight grain

3 Set axe across centre.

4use hammer to split wood

5 two halves ready to be quartered

6 set axe to approx 30mm and split again

7 and again

8 veiw showing the quarter cutting no sawdust yet other than the chainsaw

9 Piece clamped ready to smooth out a little prior to sticking

 few wet shavings the piece is ready to dry.
 
Ron think about how long you really need the wood to be, most of us cut the wood up into shorter lengths anyway and a 12 -15 inch 300 to 400 mm length is easy to split with an axe.
 
I hope this helps. good luck with the wood.
 
Michael
 
 

Rob perhaps if you cut them into shorter lengths then you could first of all split them in half with and ax and a small heavy hammer.
Take say an 16 inch pieces which is approx 600 mm place the axe squarely across the centre of the log and hit the back of the axe with the hammer this will split the log lengthwise into two halves, take each of the halves and split them up into quarters. you can then set your axe to a position that is about 30mm  parallel to one of the first split faces and repeat the splitting. I have done this on quite a few occasions, and the advantage is that the wood slits along the grain which relieves some of the inherent stresses the wood dries quite well this way.
 
Here is a series of pictures that i just took perhaps 15 minutes worth of time to cut a 200mm log of wet aspen
 sorry I did not have any other on hand.
 

1 chainsawed the knot off the end

2 chainsawed about 14 inches of straight grain

3 Set axe across centre.

4use hammer to split wood

5 two halves ready to be quartered

6 set axe to approx 30mm and split again

7 and again

8 veiw showing the quarter cutting no sawdust yet other than the chainsaw

9 Piece clamped ready to smooth out a little prior to sticking

 few wet shavings the piece is ready to dry.
 
Ron think about how long you really need the wood to be, most of us cut the wood up into shorter lengths anyway and a 12 -15 inch 300 to 400 mm length is easy to split with an axe.
 
I hope this helps. good luck with the wood.
 
Michael
 
 

I could have added to the other thread I suppose but it wasn't my serving machine.
 
After getting frustrated with the tiny bit of serving that I did yesterday I opted to make a tool that was a little flexible in its uses.
Raiding the scrap boxes for wood and metal after doodling while having the early morning coffee I came up with a design that I hope will serve me well enough.
 
I found a nice piece of Fiddle-back figured  Maple for the base, a short length of 3/8 anodized aluminum tube, some scraps of Ebony.
 

 
The sliding maple blocks on the aluminum tube were made from salvaged maple I found at the dump.a while back.
 

 
I cut a channel in the block first with a 3/8 end mill then glued in a block that was 1/64th thinner to the back side this was in order to allow it to slide and to act as the base for the threads for the locking thumb screws. I shaped the ebony just because I could.
 

 
I mounted everything on a single pedestal so that I could slide them off and put on different clamps or devices yet to be imagined. I also thought I was being original until I noticed that a lot of other fine builder had used sewing bobbins for the thread.
 
That universal mind just keeps cropping up.
 
The end caps in the aluminum tube are ebony.
 

 
I used Dafi's method of clamping the rope in the rotating holder just simple tapered wedges. the rotators are turned from a length of 3/8 brass hex stock.and are a snug fit into the small shouldered ball races that a friend gave me, he was a helicopter mechanic, and the bearings get replaced after so many hours. I have hundreds of them all different small sizes. If anyone needs a couple let me know.
 
The thumbscrews were turned from some brass pinion stock that I have had lying around for years and since I do not have a knurling tool this was the next best thing. they are threaded 4x40
 
The rod for the bobbin was set so that the bobbin could just turn freely and with a layer or two of card slid under to add tension. It can also just slide off.  I did not get into the complexity of gearing as the hex rotators turn freely enough.
 

 
A clamping arrangement will be added to the tops of the sliders for doing the seizing of the shrouds around the deadeyes.  That's it for now.
 
Michael
 
 
 
 
 
 

First a modification to the ropewalk by adding some more holes in a square configuration allows for the easy winding of shrouds.
 

 

 
A simple and quick change to set up.
 
The issue of the long end is solved by laying it in one of those clear plastic shipping tubes that brass tube comes in , I actually needed 2 of them as the shroud was longer than 36 inches.
 

 
Procedures become clear as we figure out stuff and the winding was done at the left hand side which although worked well enough, I needed to be careful because the shroud was being wound up to the right it was in an unwind mode to the left .  
 

 
I will swap the rotators end for end so that the winding one is to the right side that way the shroud will be wound up all the time. As the serving is being laid on. This will have the added advantage of allowing the some of the served end to be fed through the winding end if a longer section of serving is needed . The shorter distance between the rotators helps to reduce the amount of tension needed to keep the shroud taught when serving.
 
The other thing I notice was that the bobbin came off the brass centering sleeve, this had the effect of letting the bobbin sit on the wood base, this gave the bobbin enough friction so that the tension of the windings were consistent and also the bobbin was pulled along the length by the thread that was feeding onto the shroud.
 
By doing this work slowly and by simply turning the rotator by hand the lay can be very easily controlled and it really does not take that long.
 

 
The way of clamping the deadeyes used the basic principle of pegs in a hole.
 

 
the seizing then went easily, A change I would make on a new one would be to add a little more distance between the aluminum bar and the shroud this would facilitate an easier access for my big fingers, Of course tweezers and dental hooks would also help.
 

 
Michael
 

Matt your model and work is absolutely stunning!!!.
 
Michael

Goose-neck Part 2
 
continuing on this picture does show the roller reefing that inspired my version.
 

 
the worm was held in place with two retainers that were filed up and bolted with 2x56 round headed machine screws, the shaft through the worm is 1/8th diameter filed square at each end, so the the reefing can happen from either side.
 

 

 

 
The part of the goose neck that is fitted to the mast was inspired by one from Cockwells web site .
 
The first step was to machine up the block to mate to the boom(this needed extensive fining to allow the boom to swing when I mated the two parts together) the top and bottom straps were silver soldered to the block this also annealed the bands.
 

 

 

 
I used this same technique for the base step band.
 
The soldered and formed piece. ready for clean up, .. files, emery paper , steel wool .
 

 
Final assembly
 

 

 
end of roller reefing
 
Michael
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Doris I have to echo what Anja said
 
I cannot think of anything else to say.
 
Michael
 

Doris I have to echo what Anja said
 
I cannot think of anything else to say.
 
Michael
 

I could have added to the other thread I suppose but it wasn't my serving machine.
 
After getting frustrated with the tiny bit of serving that I did yesterday I opted to make a tool that was a little flexible in its uses.
Raiding the scrap boxes for wood and metal after doodling while having the early morning coffee I came up with a design that I hope will serve me well enough.
 
I found a nice piece of Fiddle-back figured  Maple for the base, a short length of 3/8 anodized aluminum tube, some scraps of Ebony.
 

 
The sliding maple blocks on the aluminum tube were made from salvaged maple I found at the dump.a while back.
 

 
I cut a channel in the block first with a 3/8 end mill then glued in a block that was 1/64th thinner to the back side this was in order to allow it to slide and to act as the base for the threads for the locking thumb screws. I shaped the ebony just because I could.
 

 
I mounted everything on a single pedestal so that I could slide them off and put on different clamps or devices yet to be imagined. I also thought I was being original until I noticed that a lot of other fine builder had used sewing bobbins for the thread.
 
That universal mind just keeps cropping up.
 
The end caps in the aluminum tube are ebony.
 

 
I used Dafi's method of clamping the rope in the rotating holder just simple tapered wedges. the rotators are turned from a length of 3/8 brass hex stock.and are a snug fit into the small shouldered ball races that a friend gave me, he was a helicopter mechanic, and the bearings get replaced after so many hours. I have hundreds of them all different small sizes. If anyone needs a couple let me know.
 
The thumbscrews were turned from some brass pinion stock that I have had lying around for years and since I do not have a knurling tool this was the next best thing. they are threaded 4x40
 
The rod for the bobbin was set so that the bobbin could just turn freely and with a layer or two of card slid under to add tension. It can also just slide off.  I did not get into the complexity of gearing as the hex rotators turn freely enough.
 

 
A clamping arrangement will be added to the tops of the sliders for doing the seizing of the shrouds around the deadeyes.  That's it for now.
 
Michael
 
 
 
 
 
 

Russ, Sherry, John, Germanus and Alex. Thank you all for your kind comments.
 
I picked up some Gutterman Black No 50 cotton thread today and followed Longridge's method of using 4 x 3 strand ropes, I only used 3 threads instead of 4 in the three strands of the smaller ropes I should have used 4 threads in each strand. It was a lot of work regardless.
 

 
The four ropes each rope was formed from 9 threads instead of 12, so I ended up making the shrouds a little on the light side.
 

 

 
I did some seizing with the same No 50 threads and test fitted the shroud rope around one of the deadeyes, I was a little disappointed because of the mistake with the numbers of thread in the smaller ropes, because this made the shroud 16 threads thinner than it should have been.

 

 
I need to make a serving jig and a better clamping method than the crocodile clip stand for doing the seizing. I am also thinking that a geared powered ropewalk with be the ticket, So I will have to get cracking on one of those as well. I must admit I got tired of winding by hand.
 
Michael

John, Russ, Doris, Carl, Popeye ,and Bob, thanks for dropping by.
 
Today I whipped up (pun intended a little serving tool that will also be able to be used as a clamping jig. I will post full details on the tools and jigs section. Here is a shot of the tool in action I used black on white for the photo.
 

 
The sewing bobbin which can be easily loaded on the sewing machine is a slide fit on the shaft and close enough to the base that a layer or two of card acts as a brake. I used Dafi's method of securing the rope in the tubes with wedges, The tubes are  running in ball races to reduce the friction.
 
The slides cad be easily slide off the aluminum bar. and locked with the little thumb screws
 
 
 
Michael.

I could have added to the other thread I suppose but it wasn't my serving machine.
 
After getting frustrated with the tiny bit of serving that I did yesterday I opted to make a tool that was a little flexible in its uses.
Raiding the scrap boxes for wood and metal after doodling while having the early morning coffee I came up with a design that I hope will serve me well enough.
 
I found a nice piece of Fiddle-back figured  Maple for the base, a short length of 3/8 anodized aluminum tube, some scraps of Ebony.
 

 
The sliding maple blocks on the aluminum tube were made from salvaged maple I found at the dump.a while back.
 

 
I cut a channel in the block first with a 3/8 end mill then glued in a block that was 1/64th thinner to the back side this was in order to allow it to slide and to act as the base for the threads for the locking thumb screws. I shaped the ebony just because I could.
 

 
I mounted everything on a single pedestal so that I could slide them off and put on different clamps or devices yet to be imagined. I also thought I was being original until I noticed that a lot of other fine builder had used sewing bobbins for the thread.
 
That universal mind just keeps cropping up.
 
The end caps in the aluminum tube are ebony.
 

 
I used Dafi's method of clamping the rope in the rotating holder just simple tapered wedges. the rotators are turned from a length of 3/8 brass hex stock.and are a snug fit into the small shouldered ball races that a friend gave me, he was a helicopter mechanic, and the bearings get replaced after so many hours. I have hundreds of them all different small sizes. If anyone needs a couple let me know.
 
The thumbscrews were turned from some brass pinion stock that I have had lying around for years and since I do not have a knurling tool this was the next best thing. they are threaded 4x40
 
The rod for the bobbin was set so that the bobbin could just turn freely and with a layer or two of card slid under to add tension. It can also just slide off.  I did not get into the complexity of gearing as the hex rotators turn freely enough.
 

 
A clamping arrangement will be added to the tops of the sliders for doing the seizing of the shrouds around the deadeyes.  That's it for now.
 
Michael
 
 
 
 
 
 

Well that certainly was a bit of a shock.
 
I will not try to rebuild everything back to the begining but here is a brief overview of from there to here.
 
This pilot cutter is based on some plans that were published by MAP
(Model and Allied Press) back in the early 70's and those plans were actually
based on the fishing smack CK482. Those of you who have seen the build in the past
will already be familiar with what I have done so far.
 
The model is

LOD 63 inches

LOA 84 inches

Beam 18 inches

Draft 10 1/2 inches

My intention is to sail this model here are a few pics of the build





The frames are Jellutong, and the planking on the hull is Cedar.





 
The roller reefing is custom built around a worm gear on hand.

The mast is Clear Fir and the boom is Spruce.


 


The deck is double planked the lower planks are white pine glued and treenailed
into place the top planks are clear Fir the caulking is coloured Carpenters
glue the top planks will also be treenailed in place.
 
The cockpit surround is Honduras Mahogany as is the forward hatch and the cabin
sides.
 

 
The underside of the
cockpit coaming the walls will drop into the opening 2 1/14 inches and there
will be a gasket around the edge of the deck under the coaming. The cockpit
will be fixed into the hull with a couple of brass machine screws then a teak
floor grate will cover those. this way I can access the rudder controls and
keep the water
 

 
I have learned form this experience to back up everything and am now building my log in MSword and posting to the site.
 
It is great to have the site back.
 
Michael
 

Russ, Sherry, John, Germanus and Alex. Thank you all for your kind comments.
 
I picked up some Gutterman Black No 50 cotton thread today and followed Longridge's method of using 4 x 3 strand ropes, I only used 3 threads instead of 4 in the three strands of the smaller ropes I should have used 4 threads in each strand. It was a lot of work regardless.
 

 
The four ropes each rope was formed from 9 threads instead of 12, so I ended up making the shrouds a little on the light side.
 

 

 
I did some seizing with the same No 50 threads and test fitted the shroud rope around one of the deadeyes, I was a little disappointed because of the mistake with the numbers of thread in the smaller ropes, because this made the shroud 16 threads thinner than it should have been.

 

 
I need to make a serving jig and a better clamping method than the crocodile clip stand for doing the seizing. I am also thinking that a geared powered ropewalk with be the ticket, So I will have to get cracking on one of those as well. I must admit I got tired of winding by hand.
 
Michael

Well John putting the bulwark on was tough enough for me. it is amazing what the camera sees that I don't. this is all for now.
 
 
 

 

 

 
Michael
 

Bob thanks for those kind words. here is a link to a one man art show I had a few years ago.
http://s5.photobucket.com/user/my30mm/library/artshow%20dec%2005?page=1
 
David Thanks for dropping by.
 
A long time ago I was given a block of Lignum Vitea, it is tough as nails but slippery, due to the oils within the structure of the wood.
 
First I made a dowel
 

 
Then indexing along I cut the grooves for the shrouds and lower brackets.
 

 
Then a different form tool to round the edges
 

 
there is no sanding the finish is just from the tool.
 

 
Next the blank was cut into smaller blanks with a jewelers.
 

 
Then a small brass split chuck was made to hold the rough blanks
 

 
The shaping tool for the face
 

 
First one
 

 
I am really impressed with the way this wood turns on the lathe.
 

 

 
Now I need to sort out a jig to drill the holes. That rope does look like old hemp rope.
 
Michael

Buck that french polishing looks rather splendid, want to come and do my grand piano! just kidding I don't have one. It is great to see some traditiona finishing methods being used amid all the new polyurethane type finishes.
 
Michael

I managed to get one of the chainplates roughly shaped today it is mostly tapered with a parallel section below the spacing block. I thought a decorative flourish works for the bottoms.
 

 

 

 
The screws are 1 inch long 4x40 brass machine screw.I need to reshape the head to get rid of the slots.
 
Most of the day was used up collecting some firewood and helping a friend move some steers and Heifers.
 
Michael

Bob thanks for those kind words. here is a link to a one man art show I had a few years ago.
http://s5.photobucket.com/user/my30mm/library/artshow%20dec%2005?page=1
 
David Thanks for dropping by.
 
A long time ago I was given a block of Lignum Vitea, it is tough as nails but slippery, due to the oils within the structure of the wood.
 
First I made a dowel
 

 
Then indexing along I cut the grooves for the shrouds and lower brackets.
 

 
Then a different form tool to round the edges
 

 
there is no sanding the finish is just from the tool.
 

 
Next the blank was cut into smaller blanks with a jewelers.
 

 
Then a small brass split chuck was made to hold the rough blanks
 

 
The shaping tool for the face
 

 
First one
 

 
I am really impressed with the way this wood turns on the lathe.
 

 

 
Now I need to sort out a jig to drill the holes. That rope does look like old hemp rope.
 
Michael