shiloh

Right on Jud.
If you have ever been on a cruise ship and tried to swim in a pool with choppy seas you get a ride of your life. Most of the time they empty the pool when things get too rough.
In this case I will add baffles but I also need to keep the tanks tied together so you would not need to shift water from one to the other. 

Put some baffels in your tanks. Unless you have driven a tanker truck half full you probably don't apreciate the amount of thrust moving water can create, baffels help control the speed of the water movement in closed tanks.
jud

Put some baffels in your tanks. Unless you have driven a tanker truck half full you probably don't apreciate the amount of thrust moving water can create, baffels help control the speed of the water movement in closed tanks.
jud

Those adjusting screws are gib screws. They control the tightness of the slides by varying pressure on the metal pads. The are usually satisfactory straight out of the box. The rocking you describe sounds abnormal: the x-y table should be rock-steady. Are the Allen screws you used to attach the table to the base too long and bottoming out before the heads tighten down?

I can,t remember exactly where the play was in mine when it was new but i solved it by adjusting ,tighting the 3 adjusters you show . There is an explanation on how to do this in the instructions ,i suggest you read them first .

I bought a variable potentiometer and wired it to dim..   During the day, the lights can't really be seen, at night, they were too bright.  I think it's a 100 ohm variable.  But given the prices of LED's and the various forms they come in, one doesn't even need to add current-limiting resistors (like I did), they're built in.

That would be quite a find if that's the ship and can be salvaged to any degree ! Fascinating ! Thanks for posting that link.
 
Joe

Jeff, sounds like you are using your JAX Black on uncleaned surfaces. The instructions say to brush on or immerse clean metal ...... What you think is clean, probably is not clean enough. Metal is fussy when it comes to plating or etching, do some research, probably some cleaning suggestions on the bottle of JAX Black.
jud

Hi Nenad,
 
The 'Like" of course is for some support as I am very sorry to hear your mother in law is unwell once again...will hope and pray the antibiotics help.
 
Love your CS cabin build work, looking really good.  
 
As for the firewood...yep it is that time of year here as well..just glad my wood is also split and stacked given fall is now in full swing!
 
Cheers,
 
Nigel.

I'm with Nigel.. the "like" is for support and I too hope the antibiotics help.   
 
My firewood is in place as I order in late May/early June and it sits in the sun all summer and dries. 
 
Nice work on the deckhouses....  I hope all things work out for the better with you and your mother-in-law.

I would not be surprised if wet leather was sewn onto the unserved rope loops. A baseball stitch would allow for less mass but a two needle stitch would also allow for a stretch fit that would have then been shellacked or varnished after drying. The ships I rode were still using leather in some rigging, such as lifelines or awning cables, brass grommets used in the sheeting. When a kid Dad used to rope me using a grass rope with a brass honda, that sucker hurt when it hit your head, makes me think that whatever was used in the bolt rope loops, probably did not have a lot of mass.
jud

A wreck in 18 feet +/- that has lain for 374 years in oxygen rich shallow water, nice find. I would doubt that much is left of her, unless she was quickly buried in sand and silt with encrustations quickly covering any exposed metals. Ceramics would survive but in 18 feet of water, extensive salvage probably took place down through the years. Salvage and disruption caused by salvage probably has left little to be recovered today. Regardless, I hope a through search using every recovery technique be used, shallow water might even allow for a Coffer Dam to be placed around the wreck and the recovery could be done in mud, need to leave some water, so further damage is not caused by drying. Conservation facilities need to be available on site so any and all recovered items could start a stabilization process immediately. Those doing such recovery are more knowledgable than I on this subject, be watching to see what is eventually done, if anything.
Hope this wreck is an exception, to the ravages of man and time, and reveals much about the times she was sunk.
jud

Hi,
In fact wreck of Solen was discovered in 1969.
http://www.wreck-diving.pl/Gulf_Wrecks/strony/Solen_16m.html
 
Solen is seventeenth century wooden Swedish warship - galleon, built for the Royal Swedish Navy. Solen was bought by the Swedes in the Netherlands, then rebuilt into a warship and armed in Alvsborgu.
During the Polish-Swedish war Solen attending in Swedish forces blocking the Gulf of Gdansk. The captain of the ship was Alexander Foratt. Solen also participated in the Battle of Oliwa in 28 November 1627. Then the ship was mistakenly taken for the flagship and it was attacked by the Polish smaller galleon Wodnik. During the unarmed combat and the shelling of small arms, among others died Captain Foratt. When the battle taken unexpected turn for the Swedes, the Swedish skipper blew up Solen. The ship sunk, but the 46 crew members survived.
 
The history of finding the wreck:
In 20 October 1969, while work on the construction of the North Port of Gdansk, workers found a sailing ship wreck, which was identified with high probability as the "Solen" and marked as W-6. The part of the groundswell survived, but it is devoid of the bow. The wreck lay at a depth of 16 meters, at distance of 3 nautical miles on northeast of the entrance to the port of Gdansk, in position 54°28' north latitude and 18°42' east longitude. During the pioneering in Poland exploration work, Solen was taken up by the Central Maritime Museum in Gdansk.
In 1969 the eleven cannon barrels was brought out from the wreck, from which eight were cast in Sweden (with the Waza’s coat of arms), two were Polish and one Russian. Over the next year more than 6 000 items were recovered. Divers found nine cannons, cannonballs, ceramics, coins and many others utilitarian things. Because the wreck lay at the entrance to the port, on 10 September 1980 Solen was moved to another location in the region of Gdynia Orłowo. Exhibits taken from the Solen are in the Central Maritime Museum in Gdansk.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battle_of_Oliwa
 
Tadeusz
 

A wreck in 18 feet +/- that has lain for 374 years in oxygen rich shallow water, nice find. I would doubt that much is left of her, unless she was quickly buried in sand and silt with encrustations quickly covering any exposed metals. Ceramics would survive but in 18 feet of water, extensive salvage probably took place down through the years. Salvage and disruption caused by salvage probably has left little to be recovered today. Regardless, I hope a through search using every recovery technique be used, shallow water might even allow for a Coffer Dam to be placed around the wreck and the recovery could be done in mud, need to leave some water, so further damage is not caused by drying. Conservation facilities need to be available on site so any and all recovered items could start a stabilization process immediately. Those doing such recovery are more knowledgable than I on this subject, be watching to see what is eventually done, if anything.
Hope this wreck is an exception, to the ravages of man and time, and reveals much about the times she was sunk.
jud

Lever's '85 fathoms' is for merchant ships in the coal trade.  A cable as a measurement is 100 fathoms or 600 feet.
NOTE to the wise:  Darcy Lever, 'The Young Sea Officer's Sheet Anchor' is practically required reading, a comprehensive compendium of the things a new seaman or young officer needed to know.  Lever covers most things above decks, not concerning himself much with the building of the ship, but with the setting up and operation.You can get it in a Dover publication for not very much $$.
 
When the cable is not entirely out, it is wrapped around the bitts and set up with stoppers, lashed to eyebolts on deck or on the knee of the bitts.  The stoppers are to prevent the wrap from coming off.  Belaying it to the mast below decks is to prevent the whole thing going overboard and being lost.
The bitts might be 'buried', but that is because the ship rises above the level on which the hawse holes are.  The bitts are normally on the same deck as the hawse holes.
Duff, about halfway up, where I89 and I91 cross.

Yes, the bitter end was belayed to the foot of the foremast.
Most representations I've seen show coils of cable in sort of a rectangular form, smaller coils inside larger ones.  These were very stiff things, think of almost rebar what with the triple rope construction and all the tar and serving, parcelling and keckling they put on them.
If there is a platform or orlop deck, there would be battens on the deck to keep the cable well-aired to aid drying.

Aboard the Helena CA 75 there was a water tank in each Gun Room of the 8" turrets that would hold the normal 2 bag charge. No tanks in the Magazine or the Upper and Lower Powder handling Rooms. We were using modern Smokeless Powder as a Propelling Charge, there was a Black Powder ignition charge in a packet attached to the rear of the Powder Bag, which was always on the up side when placing the powder bags into any of the Hoists or Scuttles. The Black Powder was one important reason for the water tanks in the Gun Rooms, Smokeless powder is fairly stable and the grains were large enough to quickly clean up in the event of a broken powder bag, If something happened in the gun room that might spark the Black Powder, it went in the tank so the gun room was safe from a self inflicted explosion. Also the powder handling devices were made of aluminum or brass at all points of contact except the chamber of the gun.
All the BS because I would expect to see a water tub in the Outer Powder Handling Room for safety reasons, perhaps also in the Magazine, could not see any in the illustration. Might also be water tubs, on deck near the shown powder passing Deck Ports.
jud 

Aboard the Helena CA 75 there was a water tank in each Gun Room of the 8" turrets that would hold the normal 2 bag charge. No tanks in the Magazine or the Upper and Lower Powder handling Rooms. We were using modern Smokeless Powder as a Propelling Charge, there was a Black Powder ignition charge in a packet attached to the rear of the Powder Bag, which was always on the up side when placing the powder bags into any of the Hoists or Scuttles. The Black Powder was one important reason for the water tanks in the Gun Rooms, Smokeless powder is fairly stable and the grains were large enough to quickly clean up in the event of a broken powder bag, If something happened in the gun room that might spark the Black Powder, it went in the tank so the gun room was safe from a self inflicted explosion. Also the powder handling devices were made of aluminum or brass at all points of contact except the chamber of the gun.
All the BS because I would expect to see a water tub in the Outer Powder Handling Room for safety reasons, perhaps also in the Magazine, could not see any in the illustration. Might also be water tubs, on deck near the shown powder passing Deck Ports.
jud 

Rope stretches when tension is applied. The rate of stretch slows over time but it will continue to stretch until it fails. Not much tension put into a model while being rigged so any stretch caused by rigging may remain undetectable for years, if the building environment remains constant over the model's lifetime. Wetting and hanging with a small weight won't hurt a natural fiber rope, nor will hanging under tension, harm a synthetic or composition rope. Some rope may not display stretch quickly, it was mentioned a water-glue mix being applied to the rigged composition line with good results.
Pre-stretching will do no harm unless overdone, might be good insurance.
jud

Hi,
 
There are a couple of ways to go about this process...I won't go into that except for this much ....
 
You can create a master...from nearly any material, mold it in a type of heat resistant silicone, and make injected waxes for the investment casting process, or you can create wax masters for either 'one off' ( risky ) or to use for other forms of molding, and again making additional wax copies for the investment process.
 
The "Investment" is a type of refractory grade material, similar in appearance to plaster, but capable of allowing very high temperature materials to be poured or cast into it. Brass, silver, gold, platinum, etc.
 
No matter which way you tackle the front end work, once you create a 'tree' of wax masters and set up, pour and create the investment mold, the mold is then cured and baked in a high temp oven for very specific cycle of temps and time to both cure the investment AND melt out the wax masters....leaving behind the exact cavity of the master which then gets filled with your casting Metal. - The 'Flask' ( the part that is the investment mold in a metal cylinder ) will be taken from the oven or kiln, and either gravity or vacuum cast with the metal that is ready and waiting. The flask needs to be at a quite high temp when this is done. Again, a separate topic all its' own....for another thread maybe one day.
 
Throughout the process, there is a small percentage of shrinkage produced at the different stages, and knowing both the molding materials and the final casting materials will be a part of the initial design...i.e; the original master is often created at anywhere from 1-3% oversize to account for this. For very small parts this process shrinkage may not be noticeable, but if the parts have a bit more size or mass, and are requird to fit as a part of an assembly.....well, you get the idea.
 
The good thing about creating a silicone mold for wax injecting, is that if you decide you want more of the castings, you simply make more of them and repeat the investment process for more metal castings.
 
BTW - there are quite a few silicone mold materials to choose from and the type of investment will depend on the desired finish, type and temp of the metal to be cast....none of these parts of the process are " one size fits all ".
 
I hope I have not added any confusion here....hopefully it sheds a little light on the process. There are a few decent videos on the internet out there, but most that I have seen are less han satisfactory for really explaining things well.
 
- Joe

Rope stretches when tension is applied. The rate of stretch slows over time but it will continue to stretch until it fails. Not much tension put into a model while being rigged so any stretch caused by rigging may remain undetectable for years, if the building environment remains constant over the model's lifetime. Wetting and hanging with a small weight won't hurt a natural fiber rope, nor will hanging under tension, harm a synthetic or composition rope. Some rope may not display stretch quickly, it was mentioned a water-glue mix being applied to the rigged composition line with good results.
Pre-stretching will do no harm unless overdone, might be good insurance.
jud

Rope stretches when tension is applied. The rate of stretch slows over time but it will continue to stretch until it fails. Not much tension put into a model while being rigged so any stretch caused by rigging may remain undetectable for years, if the building environment remains constant over the model's lifetime. Wetting and hanging with a small weight won't hurt a natural fiber rope, nor will hanging under tension, harm a synthetic or composition rope. Some rope may not display stretch quickly, it was mentioned a water-glue mix being applied to the rigged composition line with good results.
Pre-stretching will do no harm unless overdone, might be good insurance.
jud

Hi Nenad.
 
Also what Patrick said and Mark.
 
Denis.

I have made spar stock by gluing 4 square sticks together.  If you watch carefully for any warp in your square stock, you can position them so the warps cancel each other out.  From there, just make the square into a circle.  Or octagon, whatever is required.

Sunk in Kula Gulf: The Final Voyage of the USS Helena and the Incredible Story of Her Survivors in World War II
By John J. Domagalski
Washington, DC: Potomac Books, 2012
6-1/4” x 9-1/4”, hardcover, xvi + 237 pages
Photographs, maps, notes, bibliography, index. $32.95
ISBN: 9781597978392
 
 
John J. Domagalski is on something of a roll, bringing out a new book on American naval history during World War II in the Pacific every couple of years. He brings a very interesting perspective to these works, since they are primarily based on extensive interviews with surviving veterans of the conflict—he has met with almost fifty of these men to record their stories.
 
Sunk in Kula Gulf shares many characteristics with his previous book, Lost at Guadalcanal. The framework is provided by careful and wide usage of well-established secondary sources selected from the many books published on the United States Navy’s war in the Pacific over the past half century. Into this he incorporates the personal recollections of the veterans and extensive details drawn from extant official combat reports in the archives. The net result is a very rich story that has an immediacy and a human connection that more academic analyses will omit.
 
Domagalski is not the first author to tap into the power of enriching stark official reports with personal narratives—John Lundstrom comes to mind as another practitioner. Nevertheless, Domagalski is extremely successful in skillfully blending the unadorned factual details of the cruiser Helena’s fight at Kula Gulf in July 1943 with the fascinating and utterly absorbing perspectives of the sailors who fought the ship. This is really history with a human face.
 
It helps greatly that Domagalski is a very good writer who is able to bring his reader along with him as he tells his story. His prose is simultaneously lucid and compelling. This style of history may not appeal to professional academics but Sunk in Kula Gulf include important material that might otherwise be lost, presents a powerful story, and tells it very well indeed.
 
James Johnson
San Diego, California