dkuehn

OK, just took a few pics of the pre-prototype model of Sphinx, so you can see where I am up to.
 
Please bear in mind that this model is disposable, no paint, no varnish, it has been dropped a couple of times, as the starboard  forecastle bulkhead can testify, and no PE as yet, which is why I have just use brass rod for the chain pump handles, just to make sure all holes for this align correctly. This is just to make sure designed parts fit, and if not, changed and replaced.
 
Today I glued the forecastle and quarterdeck beams in place, and finished the final deck engraving designs for the forecastle. I think once upper decks are fixed, my only real design job is for the inner upper bulwarks.

Since I've been doing a few photos on something else, I thought I'd take this one of the EIGHT ship's boats I've built for VM so far.
 
I can almost do these with my eyes closed now. 😆
 

Other bits and pieces...
 
Not sure what will stay and what will go in finished kit...

Two more almost ready...

I don't think they have them yet. We ordered right from Chris. https://vanguardmodels.co.uk/

First planking complete and sanded smooth. This is 1mm thick x 5mm wide limewood, much easier to work with than 1.5mm thick lime (Took a day to plank and 20 minutes to sand). Hull lines are quite planking friendly, so not much overlap to sand. No changes needed for the bulkheads, as all planks sit just right on each, so this means I have no more work to do on main skeletal structure. No gun ports to mark out and cut out, too, they will just need a slight file so they are flush with the main frames.

Come on Glenn! A little stress and aggravation is just what the doctor ordered. 
 
Seriously I think they would be a great addition to the completed model.  

I always think that (even now)! when it comes to making them, but once I get started, I am always surprised that they are all completed in a couple of days.
 
The new boats will have planking laser cut on a 0.6mm pear sheet, so not so thick (although you still have to taper them yourself, you need something to do..)
 
ETA - I think Sphinx will work just fine without boats, as the quarterdeck will be designed to be only partially planked, showing the deck beams..

Do not tease us like that, Chris. Seeing the "what might have been" makes it difficult to concentrate on the project in front of me.  

This is what I did. My wales took up most of the space and the boom crutch parts 128 tied into the wales so I left it at that. 
 
I just build for fun and I'm not worried about getting things perfect, so obviously keep that in mind with anything I say or do. 😃

Last update.
She is finished!
It was a fun build and I enjoy it every minute.
Time to do some rigging at another model 🙂
The last picture is her final place where she is gonna stay.
 
Sjors
 
 

I've added the base stem piece and then added the ply bulwark pieces. I'm not a big fan of one piece bulwarks, preferring to frame them, but I chose to go with the kit parts here. They actually went on pretty easily and smoothly, after soaking in hot water and shaping around a former. 
 
I've now begun the first lower hull planking.
 
Bob

After wrestling with computer issues that were preventing me from posting, I can now document some progress. I have completed hull framing, added the cabin deck and the two sub-decks ,as well as the temporary bulwark cross pieces. Lastly, I have faired the hull. Now, it's on to the bulwark pieces and then the first planking.
 
Bob

I really like brushing the glue on after it's put together. None of the panic and stress of trying to quickly fit everything with glue on it.  Just casually fit it together and brush on glue. Much more relaxing. 

Thanks Bob - I do enjoy Chuck's tools. The rope walk is a lot of fun (if that's the right word?) as well. Every time I use it I think I get better results.
 
Thanks Derek and Glenn as well and for all the likes!
 

As stated above, I used the AotS book for the shroud and backstay arrangement. Even without serving the ropes I feel like the 4mm of space from the instructions would be tight; I highly recommend adding some room here. for the seizing I used a needle to thread the line through the served rope at the start of the seizing and then to half square knots on top and below before finishing with a square knot (below), adding a drop of fly tying glue and trimming the ends. The fly tying glue does darken the line, but it is not that noticeable unless you are looking for it (or get close and use flash on your camera). 


 
With the mast up, I'm scratching my chin a little trying to determine how to get the deadeyes on. I'm postponing this by practicing making a loop for them on a spare piece of rope (and eventually a jig for height). I think actually placing the deadeyes on the shrouds might have to wait until I get a solid chunk of time to devote. My spider-sense is warning me of some frustration is ahead 😁, but as with all the steps prior, once I find the right routine for me that'll pass as well.
 
 

Really looking nice.
 
Chuck is my go to for how things should look, but unlike his planking info, he doesn't go into a lot of detail about how he does rigging.
He does provide a lot of good images about how it should look.
 

 
Something to strive for..

And these tiny items were installed; first, pilot hole was drilled, then simulated bolts were inserted into... during this process i lost 4 of them; they simply flew somewhere off my tweezers when i picked them up...
 

Then i also installed top of the knight heads, after lots of sanding and forming...
 


Happy modelling..
 

My wallet is already quivering with anticipation. I can hardly wait for the Sphinx to come out, it's going to be one hell of a beautiful kit. 

The pins were installed into anchor's rode... a bit of a CA was applied to holes before...
 

Cut extras and sanded...
 

A layer of stain was applied...
 

The ring were simulated with plastic sheet, 0.2mm thick and covered with black paint.. i could have used paper as well, but wanted to test the plastic.
 

 

In one of the ship builder' videos i noticed that builder simulated bolts of the guns's breech eyebolts out of a piece of brass wire, 1mm thick. Not sure if this is historically accurate as i did not see any traces of it on the plan or instructions, but decided to do it as it appears to be nice addition to overall ship appearance.

First, starting with poor-man lathe...
 

Managed to reduce the wire using files of different types..
 

I will cut this piece so will have two for one cannon...

The length is 0.5mm
 

And after about a hour, all done...
 

i have two extras, just in case...

Happy modelling..
 

I really like brushing the glue on after it's put together. None of the panic and stress of trying to quickly fit everything with glue on it.  Just casually fit it together and brush on glue. Much more relaxing. 

My first progress post. I have done the basic hull framing. Here are my initial thoughts: 1) the laser cutting is excellent. The parts come out of the carrier sheets cleanly and easily.; 2) the fit of the framing parts is generally very good, but I did find it best to lightly sand the slots on each part to ease the fitting, while not making a sloppy fit. I used an emory board for this; 3) I followed the recommendation to dry fit all of the parts and then to brush glue onto the finished assembly. This was the first time that I had tried this method and it worked very well. I used diluted Titebond; 4) the framing is as square and stable as any kit I have ever seen.
 
Bob

Caboose pipe was assembled and installed on the ship, after being blackened and polished...
 


Ship anchors were attacked next. The rings were made of 0.6mm wire. The rods were removed from the frame..
 

There was a small gap between rod and anchor i have filled with a small piece of wood...
 

 


The anchor was glued to rod and rod was sanded to remove laser burns.
 

 

Then the ring was inserted into anchor and glued to stay in place.
 


Then i started to wind a thread around the ring, and periodically fix it with a glue..


 

 

 

 

 


Happy modelling..
 
 

My wallet is already quivering with anticipation. I can hardly wait for the Sphinx to come out, it's going to be one hell of a beautiful kit. 

My wallet is already quivering with anticipation. I can hardly wait for the Sphinx to come out, it's going to be one hell of a beautiful kit. 

Belaying pin racks installed..
 

Pins will be dropped in later but every pin needs to be cleaned of a burr that was left on the bottom... no a big deal just it will be visible if not removed..




The windlass was installed first by testing its position and drilling two holes for pins that will be "holding" it to the deck.. mounted on the deck afterwards. It is slightly difficult to remove extra wire from simulated pin once windlass is in position so i tried to push the wire in as much as possible and still to have some amount sticking out for visibility.
 




The windlass was put in position after the ship bell was mounted as well since it has to have correct position on the deck.
So, now to the bell. This part was really interesting. I wanted to actually have a fully workable bell (with a sound) but it was not possible due to the nature of simulated bell. Well, it is actually simulating...
To make it as close as possible as a real bell, i added a dinger, made out of the wire that goes thru the top of the bell and into the wooden part. The end of this wire was twisted and squeezed in attempt to simulate a dinger as close as possible. With this scale appears to be simulating nicely..
     

Then the axel was inserted; since i already have a bell handle going thru the yoke, was unable to insert an axel all the way thru so i cut the axle in two pieces. Before that, proper hole was drilled all the way thru the yoke and bell rocker.
 

Then the bell was inserted and axle was pushed thru one side of the yoke..
 

Same was done for the other side.
 


And bell functionality was tested, without sound...
 
   
The extra wire from axle was removed and ends were finished...  
The completed bell looks like this:
 

It will go on the ship next..

For fun, i started inserting pins into racks...
 


Happy modelling..