markjay

Post Twenty-four
At this point I skip sections 165-191 and move to fit the keel, stem, and sternpost pieces.
I want the keel pieces in place to modify the build board for the upright hull which will be used for most of the fitting out and detailing.
All these pieces fit together nicely.
Note: The keel facings are numbered 437/439 (Fore) and 438/440 (stern) – not as shown in the manual. The pieces are  port and starboard specific.

0832
I found the trickiest part was fitting the stem facings. I needed to further tweak the planks ends using a micro chisel to allow the facing pieces to sit flat against the stem at all points, and line up with the peg slots.
 
The hull will remain inverted for hull planking and that board has been modified to protect the vulnerable stem piece.

0833

0835
The stem protectors can be swung in and out of position.
It would be a tricky issue if the delicate figure seating at the prow was to be broken off.

0840

0841
The upright building board has now been modified to support the planked hull.

0842

0838
Indy is now secure and sitting level, I don’t want this beast moving around whilst I am working on her.
 
On with the show.
 
B.E.
19/04/2023
 

Wishing you a quick recovery Chuck, take your time and get well.
 
B.E.

Yes I agree.  In fact,  The Admiral has given me orders so I dont get pneumonia.  She has ordered me to shut down the store for at least a week or maybe two so I can get well and restock slowly.   She is a smart lady.
 
So unfortunately guys...forgive me for shutting down again.   I have nothing in stock anyway so it will give me some time to catch up.  But not for a few days at least.  I need a few days to get better.   It really knocks the hell out of you.
 
Chuck

Very dapper, fashion-forward! Can't wait to see her with her copper bottom and chrome fenders.

Thanks for the update. Looks great!

Thanks for the update. Looks great!

Just a quick update before I soon hit the copper.
 
Te hull is now more or less painted. A few touch-ups here and there, and there will be a flat coat afterwards. I added the sheen simply because it's less likely to mark when handling the hull. All paints here are from the forthcoming Grecian paint set.

 
 
 
The first task is to paint the outside band in off-white. This was left a while to cure before then masking it to add the black.

 
 
 
Once the hull was painted black, more judicious masking was done so the inner bulwarks could be painted. For this, I mixed about 95% green and 5% black.

 
 
 
The upper edge of the green was then masked and black paint carefully added to the upper section of the bulwark.

 
 
 
The finished paint job looks like this. Notice that I had masked off the slots for the channels, and also the inner bulwark positions for the various rails.

 
 
Off to cut a few more copper tiles!
 
 

More experiments making blocks and deadeyes with new mystery material.  No laser char.
 
I call the ebony deadeyes and blocks...."Febony"   as they are not real ebony but its impossible to tell really.   The blocks and deadeyes are made from the same material I experimented with making delicate scrolls.   Again....no laser char which is fantastic.
 
These are my same old multi layer mini kits.   I just used the new material to see how they would look.  Tested a medium brown as well.   No dying or staining needed.  They are the same color all the way through.  These are all 4mm deadeyes.
 



 
Chuck
 
 

Post twenty-one
Light at the end of the tunnel.
I am now alternating the plank strakes from top down and keel up which should leave the final strake below the round of the hull at midships.
This is a good place to have it in case the final strake works out to be less than uniform in shape.

0752
So, Gromit, how’s it looking – RUFF.
Have faith Gromit, there’s a fair bit of fettlin’ to do yet.

0761
Five strakes now remain, and I have re-marked the ‘ticks’ hopefully for the last time.

0755

0757
Don’t say it William, I’ve heard it all from Gromit.

0760
Has it only been three weeks since I started planking, how time flies when you’re having fun. 🙄
 
Onwards…
 
B.E.
15/04/2023
 

Thanks for the update. Looks great!

Absolutely gorgeous!
 

Thanks for the update. Looks great!

Thanks for the update. Looks great!

...Continued.
 
All gun ports are now cleaned up and the tops of the bulwarks sanded. The hole for the bowsprit entry is also cleaned up with the bulkheads being cut back to the same position. Also note the single-piece Wales have been installed.
 

 
 
Before the stern can be fitted, the tail end is tickled with a rough stick.



 
 
 
And the MDF structures at the stern can now be sheathed in pear, making them look far prettier.


 
 
The rudder tiller exit fascia is now built and fitted.

 
 
 
...and Grecian now looks like this. Gorgeous lines.

By popular demand...an update!
 
Before the planks could be added, the inner lower counter was glued into place with both pins and clamps holding it until dry. The hole on the left side denotes the ablutionary facilities escape hole.
 

 
 
 
The job of adding first planks could now start. A reasonable amount of taper at the bow, but none at the stern for this one.



 
 
 
With the lime planking complete, the keel is then faced on both sides with engraved, 1mm pear. Location pegs are there to assist with getting the parts in absolutely the right place. This is all then thoroughly clamped until set. Adding these parts has created a rebate which will help with the second layer of planks.

 
 
 
The rudder post is now built up in the same manner, then glued into position on the hull.


 
 
 
Gluing the post in place allows us to correctly glue the outer lower counter. This doesn't need to be soaked, but just make sure it's thoroughly clamped while the glue sets!

 
 
 
Everybody loves planking, and I'm no exception. I couldn't wait to get all this done and sanded. Now she's looking the part...

Thanks for the update. Looks great!

🤣🤣🤣

Post Eighteen
 
Planking continues – Garboard strake
This is the point where I need to fit the Garboard plank to determine the planking requirements for the remaining area.
Garboards can be tricky planks to fit in terms of shape and where to end, and they always cause me some head scratching.
 
Some may think why bother, this is only the first planking that is to be covered, and perhaps even covered again by coppering.
For me it’s about keeping options open.
 
If the second planking is good enough not to be covered, then fitting a garboard on the first planking run will give a valuable insight for shape and position on the second show planking.
It does mean that extra planking widths will be required.
 
I am using a 10mm wide board, but I need to temporarily fit the keel and stem pieces to properly work out the shape and termination point at the bow.
0685
A real pleasure to get the keel elements in place even if only for a while. Beautifully cut, a perfect fit, and great to have a quality wood finish for the parts rather than mdf.
 
Perversely my next move is to cut an mdf stem piece against which to form the Garboard. I can’t risk the proper stem during the working process.

0689
Time to fire up the scroll saw.

0692
I don’t see any reason not to leave the keel pieces in situ at this stage, as the Garboard is the only plank that abuts, and it will assist the fitting.

0693
 A lot of time is spent tweaking the plank to gauge the right position. I’m never fully confident that I’ve got it right, but whatever the outcome doing it on the first layer will show the way for the second planking.

0695
I take the pre-caution of taping the keel, in part to avoid the planks getting glued to the keel at this point.

0698

0699

0700

0701

0702
 
I can now begin the next phase of planking.
 
B.E.
07/04/2023
 

Post Seventeen
 
Hull planking.
On my builds I have always tried to follow the procedure I will use for the show finish. Perhaps with a little less adherence to a full tick strip method, but still utilising tapering, edge bending, and spiling as a method to achieve a reasonable planking job.
This gives me an insight into how the timbers will flow when I get down to the ‘proper’ job using show timbers.
The planking will be done with the hull inverted, this gives me better control.
 

0658
I opted to plank a first section down to the lower deck level which involves five strakes.
I used tape to indicate the line at the bow.
 
Starting at the Bow and using a tick strip I have calculated that very little taper is required – less than 1mm starting at Bulkhead four.
 
Joining all planks at the central bulkhead is a practical approach, but the look of it offends my eye even tho’ this is only the first layer. We all have our foibles, I guess.
 
I work side and side about, strake by strake.
I opted to fit a long forward plank, and a shorter aft plank cut from a longer strip to facilitate the bending.

0655
The aft plank is soaked, and the bend at the aft end is formed by heat.
 

0657
The bends up to the lower transom are fairly easy to form if sufficient soaking time is allowed.

0667
Once formed I temporarily pin them in place and heat blast them.

0660
At the bow end the lower two strakes required a little edge bending around bulkheads two and four to achieve the fit.

0664

0668

0671
Still in very much a rough state which the sanding should take care of.

0677

0680

0681

0684
I like to check the planking run with the hull the right way up, looking ok so far I think.
 
B.E.
05/04/2023
 
 
 

good evening everyone
day 34
been a few days since my last post
2nd planking is going on, its never as good as i envisage it to be, but considering im not painting it, its is better than i normally present my work
the transom is in pear and i decided to remove it as i think it would look better in Boxwood, 

I was conflicted with one more thing.
This lowest part, the Gun Deck, is a place that cannot be seen unless the lattice window of the Main Deck is opened.
Reserve space for the Bowsprit in advance.