kmart

Also been working on the other Gun deck fittings

 

Stove....

 

Again, as it will be barely seen under the deck...  I didn't add a whole lot of detail  to it.  

Stove pipe I left long.  will cut it down to proper height after I install the spar deck.

BTW,  being new to soldering.. I think It came out well.

By eye the diameter seems to large, but its same diameter as the kit supplied piece. 

Ridding bits

 

Double Capstan.

Not the kit supplies pieces only for the Spar deck.

So I made identical pieces and made it the proper double.

They do separate so I can install.  

Again more micro soldering to get the copper band on the top of each.

Will stain and then gloss varnish to get the riding bits and capstans looking like bright work.

 

Couple of shots of  them installed.

 

Note that's the kit stove pipe.  Not mine.   Might go with the kit one... I think it looks more accurate then mine.

Prepping the 4 stairs that go from the gun deck down to the lower deck

 

I had created the Channels earlier in the build.   I've now attached them and added some black

 

Lots more soldering practice preparing the chain plates

I studied a bunch of other peoples build to get ideas on how to make these before I got a method down that works for me.

 

Unfortunately I didn't take any pictures of the process.

I'll try to describe.  Hopefully it makes sense without pics.

First.... I used the kit supplied photo etched parts.

Before cutting them free... I pulled out the tinyest nails I have in my spare parts boxes.

I re-drilled out all the holes on the chain plates and their smaller support pieces.

     My impression as it would be very difficult to open theses holes up after they are detached. 

Made sure the nails would fit through the holes.   I don't want to fight this later when nailing them into the hull.

Then I cut the parts all free.

 

Next I nailed a small put a small pin in a block of hardwood.   You can put the deadeye on this pin through one of the holes in the deadeye.   That basically holds the deadeye stationary for the next steps.

 

On the chainplate, I use a razor blade to fold the end over to make a  very small U at the end opposite of the hole.  

     ---

     |

     --------------------------------------0 

 

Next I cut a length of 24 gauge copper core wire.  ~ 2"  long.

using small pliers to I wrap the wire around the deadeye once and cross the  wires once at the bottom.

  Remember , the deadeye is held stable by that pin while you wrap that wire around it. 

 

 Take the u end in the chainplate and hook the two ends of the copper wire where they cross.. so both ends of the wire pass through the U.  The bottom of the U is now pinned between the ends of the wire and the deadeye.  

 

Put a drop of solder at the opening part of the U soldering the u to the wire.

 

Trim off the ends of the wire.

 

That's its.    The deadeyes even spin so I can later adjust their position.

Repeat 65 more times.

( Side note... Because I'm going for an 1812 build, I compared a few different references to determine how many and what size deadeyes,  chains and eyes I needed.     The MS plans are based on the current rigging not the 1812.  I can share the configuration I chose if people are interested in that.  )     

 

Production line of deadeyes....

Large,  Medium, Small and Eyes

Testing them out

 

That almost brings my log current to where my build is.

By my next posting (hopefully without the long delay in postings again)  I hope to report on the finished gun deck.    

 

Then I'll go over how I'll support the Spar deck.   I'm not doing the full beams  (again as they wont be seen at )  so I have my own unique method.  We'll see how it works out.      I'll cover that next time.

 

Best

K 

 

 

 

The 30 gun deck cannons took awhile.   Just about done with them

 

Decided not to blacken the ringbolts.

Also only going to simulate the breach line.   not all the gun rigging.

As it will all be covered up with the spar deck,  I'll only detail enough that can be seen by peaking through the gunports

 

Gun #1

All thirty

By eye,  they are all centered in their gunports and have the same elevation .... Came out better then I hoped for. 

 

Oh and yes.. Got the upper gunport lids attached as well.  Painting top and bottoms of the gunports (top and bottom lids)  wasn't bad.    but getting the white edges was ugly. plenty of black marks on the edges if you look close. 

 

I was going back and forth on weather to rig the lifts on the upper ports.   I made a few attempts and didn't like the results.   I figured .. no one would be able to see the lifts when the lid is in the up position so I left them off.   After I glued them all on, now I regret not rigging them.  

Gun breech lines not glued to sides yet.   I put a simple overhand know at the ends.   Will touch  the knot with glue and then stick to side in the right position.   Again just simulating... as no one will be able to see them once spar deck is on. 

 

I have no idea how others manage to attach ring bolts into the side of the bulwarks and then rig them in proper.   I'm beyond impressed for those who can do that.  Even at this larger scale...  rigging them in that small space is way to small for my  paws to manage.   You need to have surgeon level skills....

Nice view looking from the stern

The modified trucks on the cannon works great.  They have plenty of surface area that it glues down securely to the deck.

 

15 guns mounted.  15 more to go.

Hello all.    Thanks for the interest in my build.

OK,  I have been delinquent in posting updates. My bad.    I have been lurking and watching your logs for inspiration!

And  I have been making progress on my build.   

I'll post some pics and commentary shortly.

But as a tease:   Areas I've done some work on: (all in various stages of progress,  none complete yet)

• Gun deck cannons
• Ship stove and chimney
• Channels
• Dead eyes and chain plates
• Fixed a major screwup on the bottom copper
• Upper gun port lids
• Gun deck riding bits
• boomkins
• Support for the Spar deck

 

 

Starting to work on Guns for gundeck.  So need to make 30 of them .   

I am going to use the ME cannon set.  Not the dummy barrels that cam with the kit.

Fairly common issue is the cannon carriage is to short.  Without modification the barrel it will sit too low in the gun port.

My solution was to replace the dowel axels with a taller pieces of basswood to raise the overall height.

 

The wheels will just glue right on to these pieces flush with the deck.

The wheels themselves will hide most of the piece.  So they wont be as obvious.

 

In  some of my past builds, I've had canons break loose.

The tiny wheels/trucks  just don't have enough surface area connecting the deck to stay stuck.   

I tiny bump and they break loose.   Typically this after deck is closed up and I can no longer access to fix.   

With these pieces, there will be a lot more surface area on the bottom piece's to glue to the deck.   

 

Mass producing the  carriages

Testing them on the ship

 

 

 

 

For the wheels themselves,   still want to show the nub of the axis.

Trying to clean, enlarge the hole to fit the axes will split the wheel.

 

Soo ill try using toothpicks.  Glue the wheel on

Saw off the pointy end flush with wheel.  That's  the side that will be glue to the new piece of wood/axil.

On the center side of the toothpick,  I'll cut short length after the wheel to simulate the end of a axil

 

 

 

 

Once the carriages are done.  30x4  = 120 wheels to make.  Geesh.   

Then I'll start looking at rigging.  At a minimal I'll rig  the breech's on all of them.

I'll do more excessive rigging on the 8 cannons that can be seen though the open grating on the spar deck. 

As I'm aiming for an 1812 version of the ship,  I'm leaving waist hatches off.  

 

 

 

 

Gregg,   Definity encourage you to join the Connie Club.  The ship itself as a subject is a work of art.  The Model Expo kit is great.  And there are multiple build logs as great reference material.  Jon's is a great log.   Also look up  usedtosail  finished build log.  Its  effectively a full blown  practicum.  

But its not for the faint of heart and  definitely not a race.    I also started my build in 2017.  At my current rate.. I'll need more than a few years to complete.    Having Jon at roughly the same build phase has been great encouragement to keep me progressing and a great reference/ideas..   We might have leap frogged each other a few times. 🙂

 

Yup Jon... I cant believe its been almost a year since my last post.    But the break was needed, and I'm glad to  to get back to the shipyard.  I'll post my progress on my guns shortly.   I'm not super detailing them as you did.   I'm just using the stock ME canons/carriages.  (Not the dummy from the kit but the full cannon set.)     I came up with a different way to  modify  the carriages to make them the proper height.   Haven't decided how much rigging ill give them yet.

 

Jon....   

Wow,, Just Wow.  I took a bit of Hiatus from my Connie build.  Come back to find you've been going crazy with your awesome build.  Progressed well past where I'm at.     

It will take me awhile  just to go through your log and catch up.

I'm working on my gun deck now.    Just started assembling  the guns.  So really interested in you log entries  on that section.

 

KenM 

Your moving right along at a great pace.  She is looking really nice.    

Looking great.  Like how you made the rails.   I may copy that techneque when i get to that step.     Question for you.  What brand of paint and color did you use for gun carrages.   I have the me paint set and the carrage red.  But it looks to bright.   The color you used looks better

 

Great build Jeff!   You did Victory proud!

Continuing on,  The stern windows, 

As the ME kit is of a modern version of the ship,  the kit does not include the window like they do with the  quarter galleries.

But to look right, the windows need to be sized and be comparable to the quarter galleries.

and did I mention they are TINY!

 

Modern Stern

 

The stern I'm aiming for...

First Attempt. 

Did lots of math.  Calculated all the spacers I needed.   

Cut up lots of tiny pieces of wood.

 

Started framing out the windows using the spacers to make square frames

Then added the two sets of vertical sashes?  inside each frame.    Again using the spaces to get them perfectly positioned

 

So far so good.

BUT,  when I took them out of the jig.   started to try and add the super tiny cross pieces.

They were just too tiny to align right, and the surface area holding the frames together was soo small.  

The frames kept falling apart.  I got a pile of wood pieces that looks like the first pic, but covered in glue.

 

Attempt #2

Looking at the plans,  I thought   hmmm that kinda looks like a  deck grating,  but just larger holes...

 

 

So,  While I never successfully made my own gratings before.  I kind knew the general idea.

Lots more measurements, math and cutting more spacers.. I made a pile of these....

 

Glued them together.   (this time they stayed stuck together)  and got these.

 

Cleaned them up...

 

 

Still needs some more sanding and cleaning.  Just set in place but....

 

They are actually the same height as the quarter gallery windows, even though they don't look like it in the pic.

They came out way better than I expected.

 

 

 

 

Next up, start the gun-port lids.

Soo  they gun-port lids all come laser cut...     Nice!

But it would be too easy if they just fit in the ports.  No chance of that!

Actual, after I cut  them out  and sanded off the char, the height was perfect, but the width was about 1 mm too wide.

Now as the lids will be open,  no one in the world would notice them being 1 mm too wide.   But it would bother every time i looked at her me sooo.

they must be fixed.

 

Because the hole for the cannon and the portholes are in the center,  I cant just take 1 mm off one side.  Need to take 0.5 mm of each side.  

Evenly and square.   And then do it 64 times..  (16 ports a side x2 sides x top and bottom piece)

 

There is no way I can cut that precise and that consistently on my mini table saw.  Plus the piece are so small... Id loose a finger tip in the attempt.  : -(  Had to find another way.

 

So I cut 2 strips of basswood the proper width  of the ports.   In this case exactly 15mm wide. 

Drew a center line on all the lid pieces

Drew a center line on the strip of wood I cut

Put some double sided tape on one one piece

and

 

 

More double sided tape and  Sandwiched the second piece on top of the lids.

 

Sanded down the 1/2 mm sticking up.  Repeated on the other side.

And you get...

Yes they are all the same size.  

What I was more amazed at was the gun-port frames were remarkably consistent.   With only a couple of minor exceptions, lids all nicely fit the ports without adjustments.

 

I still have to add the tiny photo etched hinges, and then paint both sides.   That shouldn't be to hard.

 

What I'm really stumped on is how to attach the things to the hull.

The bottom hang straight down so I can almost just glue them right to the hull.   But the upper lid is angled up.  And any for kind of attachment,  the eyebrows will be in the way of the attachment point.   

Any ideas/ suggestions on how to attach the lids?

 

 

 

  

 

Marking the Copper line

 

So first.... need to get the ship at the right angle to the reference baseline.   

The Keel is not parallel with the baseline.  The bow end of the keel is about 8 mm higher than the baseline  than the stern.  

 

When I roughed out my stand.. i didn't account for that and made them the same height.  That's incorrect. 

The bow stand needs to be slightly higher.  But NOT mm.  something less than that.

took me longer to do the geometry than to actually fix the stand.  fix was just a shim of basswood glued on the bottom

 

   

 

Then cleaned up.   trimmed both to have similar silhouette 

Notice how the stand in foreground... the slot where keel rests is a bit higher.When the hull now is in the stand,  is correct relative to the reference  baseline in the plan.

 

Next I need a waterline marker.  I inherited the drafting / architecture tool from my Father. (Never used it until now)  Taped a pencil to it and presto  ...perfect waterline marker.

 

calculated based on reference line + height of stand +height of top of copper-line.  Adjusted pencil height to same... and marked away.

 

Sorry... Didn't take a picture with just line.   Here is taped right below the line and right above the bottom sill of the gun-ports. (ie bottom of white stripe).  

Checked bow and stern to make sure it looked parallel / aligned on both sides.

Yes its level.. the picture is taken at a off angle.

 

 

 

Annnd..   starting to paint

 

 

Tape comes off

 

Then I taped and painted between the top of the white stripe and the just below where the channel/chain-plates  will go.

 

 

Hey Chuck.   

I have RW kit on my shelf.   But years down the road befor i start her.   Ill follow you build in the meantime.  If you havnt aready.  Search the forum.  There was two fabulous builds of RF completed in 2019.  Both with great build logs.     Also. Before they went out of business.  Euromodel had a user build practicion on their website free to download.  Had 13 or 14 large pdf  on slmost every aspect of build.   If you dont have that but want it.  PM me and i can send you.

K

Jonathan.  My sympathy on the loss of your Mother.

 

I like how you built your sheaves.   Im aproaching that part soon.   Hadnt yet figured out how i was going to male them.   May do a varient of your techneque.    

K

Congrats.  Very nicly done.  I also like how your sails came out

Lol.  Well they are medical syrnges.  But wont be injecting myself with glue using them.  That would be a quick way to harden the arteries. 😁  

Not pointy hypodermic needle .  More like eyedropper tip.

Dont need perscription.  

They actually work great for applying glue. Very small amounts in controlled fashion in exact spot.    Glue doesnt dry out or clog in there.   Just use a micro drill or t pin as a cap.   Glue stays good.  No clogs.  Have used same syringe for a year now as my primary glue application tool.

 

John.and usedtosail. Thanks for the positive comments.  Means a lot to me.

 

Im not so much fast as ocd.   Wont touch the model for months and months.   Then i get a long week like over Christmass and i disapear into worshop for entire duration.  Only emerging to eat and sleep.    I get obsessed  to complete a phase and reach that next milestone.   

Sooo.   Starting the white stripe

decided to go with Vallejo paints instead of my old stock of floquil.

After testing on some sacrificial wood.   Vallejo was just so much easier to use.  Went on with a brush very easy. levels right out nice,  no smell.

and the color look good.    I was also really worried about using that really old Floquil.  It looked ok, but didn't want to risk the model with it.

 

 

This is coat #1.  you can barely see it.. but its there

I put on very thin layer at a time.

it levels out very nice straight from the bottle.  not thinned.

Dries quick so I left 1 hr between re-coats

 

This is around coat #4.

 

After last coat  (#6)

I also started preparing the Eyebrows (Rigloi??)

cleaned them up and painted black.  

Will glue them on.. so its wood to wood   before I put black on the hull.

 

Used double sided tape to stick  them to a board.  Made it much easier to hold them while painting

 

Nest up..

While looking at pictures of the real ship.. I did see that there is a series of bolts on the side of the hull

Basically just below the sill of and between each of the main gun ports   :    .   :   2 - 1 -2 pattern

So thinking about if I wanted to add this detail.

I haven't really seen it on other  builds.  but they are noticeable enough on the real ship to at least consider adding.

I'm guessing these are at back of the ring bolts used for the cannon tackle.    the pattern and location certainly seem to match.

 

Thinking ahead  for the inboard green bulwarks on the spar deck will also have all the bolts heads .

So I did a few tests to see if I can simulate bolts at the right scale to be used for both.

 

Made a few test strips with very small brass nails but the heads still looked way to big/ out of scale.

So I went and looked at several of the other Connie build logs I follow.

 

JSGerson log.   He had a ingenious  method with a brass die punch.  His turned out great with that method ..  but I neither have a punch or  the patients or skill John had to make the 1000s  bolt heads by that method and come out looking good.

 

UsedtoSail's is my other go to log

(I reference that all the time.  Its basically a build practicum the way he organized it!)

He used small drops of white glue.   turned out looking real good as well.   and easy to replicate.

 

so i copied the white glue technique.  (using my yellow wood glue).

 

I apply the glue using  a small medical syringe.  can put out very small drops.

so I mad a test plate and painted with black.

 

Looks big in the picture.. but the "bolt heads"  are  ~0.5 mm diameter.  so they look the right scale.

That test strip took me all of 1 minute to make all those heads..  So that looks like a winner as the way to go.

 

I'll definitely do this for the bolts on the bulkheads.   

Now I just need to decide if I want to add the bolts to the side of the hull below the gun-ports.

Probably will ..  but still  TBD

 

That's about it for now.

Will let the white  acrylic paint fully cure for the week.... while I go to back work for the week.

Want it fully Dry before I use masking tape on it.  I've read that acrylics dry to the touch fast, but take a while to truly harden and cure.

Else they can peel right off.

 

Should be ready to  add the black next weekend.

Then she will really start to look like Connie.

Hello Delphic,

 I'll grab a front row seat on this one.    Right at the start of your build.

Always liked the looks of USS  Rattlesnake.   Always; eyeing that one when it goes on sale... maybe after I finish the kits already sitting on my shelf.  🙂

  

1 more update.  

 

So when I put in the gundeck planking and bulwarks... at the time I didn't put in the green waterway.

Time to correct that.    Because its the gun deck and will be barely visible.. I didn't try to do the proper shape  Just left it a rectangular  profile.

Painted up several strips and added.

 

 

And side view...If you look close in addition to the waterway...  I've been adding some of the pre-paint details

 

You can see I have the lower deck port lights also installed.

     They will get painted in position when the hull is painted.

     I ordered a bottle of Microscale  Krystal Clear.

     After painted.. will use that to make the porthole glass... as well as the glass panes in the stern windows.

 

I'll add the Scupper ports and the gun-port eyebrows next before I paint the black.

Also created and installed  molding /trim between the channels.

In AOS it actually shows 3 rows of trim.

       the one as seen above. 

       another one that runs through the center of the spar deck gun-ports

      and a third below the channels but above the gundeck gun-ports.    

  

The trim itself is 1 mm  high.  by 2.3 mm wide and there is a grove down the middle.

The groove is 1/2 mm deep

Took me forever to figure out how to make that.

Still deciding if I will add the other two rows.

To make ,  I uses a dremel  (sears actually) router table that I have  (but never used until now)

Used the smallest engraving bur  bit.  And was super careful not to route my fingers when working with strips that small

 

 

Hopefully fairly soon I'll get to post some pictures with her white strip on.  🙂

 

K

 

 

More updates

So in addition to making the channels.  I'm getting the hull closer to painting.

 

First step.. Sanded the whole hull with 320 grit.

Next I used Areo Gloss Filler to coat the hull.

This is what they used back in the 70 and 80s to make model rockets.

Its basically a lacquer based sanding sealer with fine filler.

They discontinued it for years.. but was in the hobby shop and they had some in stock.

So I bought.

 

 

Brushed on the hull...  Let dry

Sand again  320 grit

 

Second coat + sand.

And the result..

going to add some of the hull details before I actually start..  hut the hull itself is all ready for paint

 

As for the paint.

In my stash I actually have some still good Floquil.

New bottles   unopened until recently to check to confirm they are still good

2 bottles of engine Black  ( plan to use this.   will test to make sure its  not glossy)

1 Bottle of Dull Black

1 bottle of Grimy Black.   (might be good for the cannon barrels)

1 new bottle of flat while   (White Stripe)

1 navy aged white

 

I took a few large squares of basswood.  (same as hull material)

first prepped with the Areo Gloss.

Now am paining with the colors to see how they come out before I commit on the hull.

 

 

Time for my next post.    While I haven't posted in awhile I have been making progress on my build.

 

First up.... I finally got around to fixing the forward gun-port.   From way back last year.. when I framed in the gun-ports, I used a jig to ensure all the ports were equally sized and square.   The jig also spanned athwart ship to do the matching gun-port on opposite side.   This worked great for almost all the gun-ports.   The foremost  port is where the hull curves in to at the bow.   Well using my jig,, these forward ports came out square and matching with its pair.    But because of the curve of the hull and geometry...:-)  it was larger than the other ports.... 

Fix was to insert a new side piece of the port to make it the proper width.   Then added a piece of hull planking (vertically).  (i know wrong but no way to put in proper horizontal planks that small).

sanded the new plank in flush.

 

Later I'll use some wood filler.    Once painted it should be invisible.

 

 

Looks pretty rough hear but it cleaned up well..   better pictures of fix later.

 

 

Next up... started roughing out the channels.  

cut out blanks to the proper size...

From plans... measured  and positioned  them on the hull where the belonged.

 

Because there is not a lot of surface area to later glue these on,  and because of the stress of the shrouds... 

 1) drilled small holes in the hull facing edge.    

  2)  drilled matching holes in the hull.

3) used small brass rode..  into the matching holes.

So now the channels stay in place..  (not glued yet.   But the rods will help me align them later and give a lot more strength when I do glue them on.

Speaking of gluing.   I am planning to attach the channels permanently prior to painting.   Want a wood to wood matting.   to add strength.

ie not tried to glue to a painted surface.    The risk is these will be in the way / risk breaking during other parts of the build.   Well see how it works out.

 

 

 

Next,  I used Microsoft Visio..  build a template to match the channels.  Then figured out exactly where the notches for the chainplates will go.

also spent hours going over the plans... all the way through Standing and running rigging  to figure out where eyebolts will also go.   Want this all added in advance of attaching to the hull.

 

 

 

More details on the channels. 

Notches,  eyebolts and some of the  wire rods.

 

 

🙂   lol.  Very slowly.  It wasnt acualy that hard but it did take a long time.  Traced the opening.   Drillied the holes leaving lots of space away from the lines.   Hacked the big stuff out with the mini carving tools.     At that point.. using a very sharp exacto knife was able to clean up to the lines.  Its basswood so it cuts easy and clean.  But did i mention it was slow work.  

Thanks everyone for the great feedback.

So i am now leaning towards using rhe areo glow.   Will do some test runs on scrap.   Will test with the acylic i have. But also look to see if i can find a laquer paint to compare.  Waiting a week or to to harden i can do.   Waiting months is a bit much.   

Hello All.

So Background.   I am currently building Model Expo - USS Constitution.

I have the basic hull all planked.  Used wood filler where needed and have her   sanded down with 300 grit.

And am planning/ prepping phase to paint the hull.

 

 

 

 

I am a complete novice with painting.   Past models I just brushed on a primer  then a coat of color.  But most of them had very limited painted areas on them.. 

The Constitution I want to do better / proper.  and not look amateurish.  

 

As its the Constitution...  color wise its easy.

Bottom will be copper foil tap from waterline down.

Top sided will be solid flat black with the white Gun port Strip.

 

I plan to brush on.   Will most likely be Acrylic Paint.

I had bought the Model Expo paint kit when I first bought the model.  Well its been a few years (5+) since i bought them..Went to open them and they are all dried up. not usable.

 

At hobby store  was asking painting advise and the knowledgeable owner suggested to use  2 coats of Areo Gloss fillercoat Dope.  Sand between coats,

(The stuff you used on model rockets as a kid...I would not have even thought of using that...but he strongly recommended it..)

Then acrylic paint on top.. He recommended Tamiya

 

 

 

1) is this a good approach.  I would not of thought of Areo dope to prep the hull

       I didn't even think they made this anymore.

2) Is this compatible with Acrylics?

       The hobby store owner said it was  but looking for second confirmation

3) Would I need a primer coat between the Areo and the Acrylic

4) Is Tamiya a good acrylic for this application

5) For below the waterline...  can copper foil tape go right on the Areo dope.?

      I'm assuming it will adhear well

And then when its done painted.. does acrylics require a clear top coat of some sort to protect it?

 

 

Other related questions

 And how does everyone handle the hull details... 

There are things like steps on the tumble-home and a thin, narrow molded plank that goes on the side of the hull,or the chainplates channels

Do you paint the base hull and then glue these parts on the paint.

or do you glue all the detail parts on first then paint over them first pass.

My thought  is ... wood to wood will adhere better.. especially for small parts will little surface area to glue to.

Will it these parts adhear to the painted surface as well?

I am thinking I mask off the areas where parts will be glued on later... to keep the wood to wood contact.  then hit those with paint they are glued on.

 

I know.. lots of questions... 

Any and all advice requested

 

And yes,  I'll definitely try any techniques on scrape wood before committing to the hull and causing a major disaster.

 

PS  I do have a stock of old Floquil paints.  I know those are great paints.   Unfortunately I have only 1 bottle of Black.   Cant risk its not enough to do the whole hull. Grrr  if only i had 2 bottles.

K

 

 

 

 

 

 

Jonathan and GrandpaPhil...  Thanks for the feedback.

The more I'm looking at it, the more I like it.  Once cleaned up and detailed it will work.

 

So onto my progress.  slow but moving forward.

I needed to prep the quarter gallery windows.   so after tracing out where the windows will go... I drilled a bunch of holes in the block

 

 

Then carefully carved, cut out the openings

 

 

From the backside

 

both Quarters with  windows roughed in

Set on the Hull

 

And the port side

Once cleaned up and painted..  I think they will come out looking decent.

I cant believe how long a 4 small block took me to make.    (days)

 

That's it for today.

 

 

And Happy Veterans Day for all of you who have served.  

We owe you more than we could ever possibly repay!   Thank you.