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Everything posted by CDW
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Sides came off and the wooden deck was applied before gluing the superstructure sides in place. Will have to mask off the deck before painting the superstructure. In the end it’s much ado about little because another deck covers most all of the wood deck beneath. The second deck is resting in place without glue, just sizing it all up.
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Seems to me an automated self leveling feature would be well worth the extra investment. Maybe the newer machines are better about staying level. I printed out a set of big adjustment screws that helped a lot, too.
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I'll do a bit more searching before I decide on the hull, meanwhile the superstructure side is coming off and will lay the wood deck first. It would have been nice if the sides could go on first and then would not need to mask the wooden deck before painting the superstructure.
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I know it's been said the HMS Hood was (dark?) gray below the waterline, but it's odd I could not find a single full hull photo of the ship with the lower hull depicted as gray. Everything I see is hull red below the waterline. Seems to me if I paint my hull gray or dark gray below the waterline, I am going to own the one unique ship who is depicted as such.
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Put the upper and lower hull together along with the main deck pieces, then began adding the superstructure sides when I realized I may be getting ahead of myself. Not sure the wooden deck appliqué fits along side or underneath the sides. If underneath, will need to remove the side I added. No construction sequence is given so it’s hit or miss.
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The CR10 was the second 3D printer I bought. The first was a Prusa and I learned in a month it wasn't quite enough to do things I wanted to do. My CR10 is a version 1 machine, so am interested to learn what kinds of upgrades were done since I bought mine in 2018. One thing I learned before I boxed it up was that I needed to purchase a semi-expensive slicer program. I was using Ultimaker Cura 3.3.1 for free. that program was good enough for most things until I began a project that required more advanced software. I am 3 years behind the curve at this point and am not familiar with what's new.
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You're going to do great with it I am sure. I thought the Geisenau had two main guns in each turret instead of three as depicted in the kit, but then again, I am not well read on that particular ship. Perhaps it went through variations in it's career.
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By far, this has been the most fiddly component constructed so far. It should be less intense moving forward.
- 225 replies
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My son-in-law is a machinist involved in the manufacture of nuclear submarines. I found it interesting to learn that each of the various companies involved in the manufacturing process each produce a complete cross section piece of the submarine in a fashion similar to how your Corvette goes together. All the pieces are sent to a central facility as they are completed, then assembled as a complete ship just as you are now building your model. I do not know if larger ships are built in this fashion, only that it applies to nuclear subs.
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Thanks much OC. You are going to do fine with your Hood. Looking forward to seeing it go together!
- 225 replies
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You've done a beautiful job on this project Alan. Have thoroughly enjoyed following the build and have learned a lot from watching. Can't wait to see what you do next!
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One more layer goes on top of this one, then it will be finished. Reminds me of the IJN battleship designs which have very similar control towers (if that is the correct term).
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On radio controlled aircraft built from 3D printed parts, CA glue is being used. This takes into account the stresses the airframes undergo while flying and in various maneuvers. Very good strength of bond. Of course, there is no distortion from CA glue but there is a risk involved inhaling the fumes created by CA which is not to be underestimated. Many modelers have had serious medical complications from breathing CA fumes.
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Yves You have done a remarkable job to produce the entire hull on your first try in 3D printing. The finished product looks outstanding. You are encouraging me to bring my machines back out of storage.
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While it’s not finished, I am tired of working on this piece for now and am taking some photos for the record.
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That resin looks so much like water, it's as if you could literally jump inside. Beautiful work, Alan.
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Was able to get several hours of work in on the Hood but still didn’t finish the bridge. A couple of the quad .5 inch guns mounted on top.
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Engine builders did a lot of mixing and matching with other small block cranks/rods with the 400 block to come up with different configurations of bore/stroke/cubic inches and drastically changed the way the engines performed. One of those combinations used a 327 crankshaft and I forget which rods, but it ended up 383 cubic inches, and had a big bore with a shorter stroke giving it higher top end RPM's. It was a drag racer favorite as I recall.
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In between the 283 and 350 small blocks came the 327 small block. My big brother bought a brand new short block 327 crate engine from the Chevrolet dealer the first year they came out, 1963 I think. He ran a set of fuelie heads which were the "thing" back then because of the size of the intake valves and porting. He dropped that engine into his '55 Chevy and it was a real runner. Last small block variations were the 307 and 400 cubic inch. The 400's were my favorite small block Chevy to street rod because the high torque made it so much fun from stoplight to stoplight.
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