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CDW

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Everything posted by CDW

  1. CDW
    Okay....this one is done, vini vidi vici.
  2. CDW
    Thanks Denis! I got all my ordnance installed and all the decals are on. I will give it a dull coat tonight, then take some photos after that. This one is history. On to the next project. Need to decide what it will be...decisions, decisions.
  3. CDW
    Thanks!
  4. CDW
    Have you run across anyone who is making/selling resin engine kits? In the late 90's, early 2000's, there were several cottage industry people making really nice race engine replicas. Now, I have not seen any around. They were not cheap back then, but they were very nicely done and would give a whole lot of extra to any scale racing model.
  5. CDW
    Wow, some great Henry J pics! For a no-graphics/no-decals car, that 6th picture down from the top is a great looking Henry J gasser, for sure. For a name, got to love the Mr. Nasty gasser. His flames are sub par, but I like the old school look of that one, too.
  6. CDW
    I have never used Life Color paints, so cannot make any comments on the suitability of either of the two thinners with that paint.
  7. CDW
    The Anglia was a popular gasser body style. One named Underdog was a local favorite for me. He ran a straight six and that thing was so darned consistent, he took home trophy after trophy almost every weekend. An excellent driver.
  8. CDW
    Very interesting project JCT. I remember building the model long ago, but I don't remember ever seeing an actual Henry J at the strip, or on the street for that matter. I guess they were not a prolific car back then.
  9. CDW
    Thanks JCT. Thinned india ink would work just fine provided you first put down a good gloss clear coat. That's a must.
  10. CDW
    More photos after the dry brushing with white pigment powder.
  11. CDW
    Here, I have applied a gloss clear coat over the entire model in preparation for some Tamiya panel line shading solution, brown and gray. First the brown panel line solution is applied with any excess swabbed away with q-tips. Then the light gray wash goes down with the same q-tip treatment. Last, a light dry brushing with Vallejo white pigment powder over the model.
  12. CDW
    You mean to tell me all this is nothing more than a made for TV crap-fest? 😮
  13. CDW
    As a thinner for Tamiya paints as well as the Mr Hobby/Mr Color line of paints, you will not find a finer thinner than this: https://spraygunner.com/gsi-creos-mr-color-leveling-thinner/ It's fabulous. Mix 50-50 with the paint. As an alternative, use common rubbing alcohol (60% alcohol or higher) as a thinner. Works well with Tamiya paints and I use it all the time for a quick drying time. Mix 50-50. Cheap and easy to find.
  14. CDW
    You did a great job on the USS England, Jack. How did you like the Gator Grip glue for your photo etch? I think it makes the task lots easier to align and comes out much neater and cleaner.
  15. CDW
    Mine is rather low on looks, but I save a ton on batteries.
  16. CDW
    Thanks for the comments, Richmond. If you go to Flory Models on Youtube, you can see tons of good examples of dry brushing techniques from Flory. He's a great modeler. Tamiya and Mr Hobby actually make panel line washes. They are much different than the Flory clay pigment washes. To be honest, they are little more than the "old school" washes we used long ago from Turpentine (or Turpenoid) with a dash of artist oil paint of your choice. I believe they have mixed in some naptha to help it dry faster. The down side to the old school wash of turpenoid and artist oil was a slow drying time. Also you have to take some extra care with that type of wash as it (turpentine) will soften the underlying paint.
  17. CDW
    Thanks Patrick Swordfish now has legs. Rigging is finished. More fiddly bits to add tomorrow. Decals soon.
  18. CDW
    Thanks Denis. Tamiya provides a 1:1 drawing of the finished airplane and camo scheme in the kit. I photo copy the drawing, then cut it apart to create my painting masks. Makes it quick and easy to get the almost identical paint/camo scheme as is shown on the plans. This plane did have some tricky masking that had to be done on small areas in various places.
  19. CDW
    Thanks Lou. Right now, the flying wires (photo etched) are taking me a little longer than I anticipated. Tamiya provides a little punch tool on the photo etch fret for pre opening the holes in the wings and fuselage where the photo etch wires will attach (slide in fit). The tool doesn't actually give quite enough of an opening, resulting in fiddling around later trying to get the wires to fit. It wouldn't be a problem if I had anticipated it ahead of time, but I didn't. So far, that's my only little hang-up with this kit. But all things considered, flying wires from ez line or similar thread is not a quick proposition either. But I do feel a little more comfortable with thread than I do the photo etch though. This is my first biplane rigged with photo etch flying wires.
  20. CDW
    A dry fit along the way to the finish of the Swordfish construction. Many modelers have said this is the finest fitting, best engineered kit Tamiya had made. Those comments came a decade ago. Perhaps there are even better kits from Tamiya today, but I can vouch for the engineering and fit of this model. Goes together very well indeed.
  21. CDW
    I knew guys who destroked the 400's as well. A 327 crank and I forget which rods they used. I think it came out to around 350 cubic inches, + or -. Big bore, short stroke. Hand grenades. 😁
  22. CDW
    Is that a Henry J in the strip tank?
  23. CDW
    The 400 was my all-time favorite small block Chevy to build as a street rod mill. I used to harvest the 400 blocks from junk cars and keep them in my garage for engine building. While many sought out the 4 bolt main bearing blocks, I preferred the 2 bolt mains and would have the bolts added at the machine shop for the 4 bolt setup. It turned out a beefier, stronger, main bearing cap setup IMHO. You just can't beat the torque performance of a 400 small block in a street machine. Loved it. Great bore-stroke ratio.
  24. CDW
    Thanks OC I was doing some reading on the Swordfish this weekend. As you probably know, she came into the war an outdated old bird, but she stayed in service during the entire duration of WW2. She served in the North Atlantic under severe conditions, doing anti submarine duty. While often times weather was too severe for the more modern aircraft to even be on the flight deck, the Swordfish was airborne, doing her thing. She was radar equipped, too.
  25. CDW
    Here are the results of this weekend's labor. Masking and painting all the main pieces. With a few unexpected interruptions, was unable to get as far along as I wanted. Over the course of this week, want to get the remainder of the model finished. We shall see. The colors used are Tamiya flat white; Tamiya gray violet (gray + a dash of purple); Tamiya dark green (IJN green + green); Tamiya rubber black The color call outs call for Tamiya rattle can colors for the gray violet and dark green (AS4 and AS9) but I detest rattle cans, so I mixed it by eye to my own until I was satisfied with it. The wing roots are not finished. Flat black walkways need to be masked and painted on. v

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