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CDW
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Everything posted by CDW
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Thanks for the link. Looks like the consensus of opinion with other modelers is all the formation lights hold to the standard navigation routine of red on the left and green on the right. -
Very nice!
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Green Elephant funny car by jct - FINISHED - 1/24 - PLASTIC
CDW replied to jct's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
I have never seen decals behave that way, JCT. It must have been a bad batch of decal paper they printed those decals on. I don't know any other explanation for it. I recently learned the company I used to buy my blank decal paper from went out of business. I have a good size quantity on hand, but after this will have to look for another vendor. The company I used (now out of business) was known as Bel Decal, in Florida. If you ever by chance look for blank decal paper to print your own decals, be advised there is specific paper for ink jet, laser, and various other uses including ceramics. It's not "one size fits all". -
You did a marvelous job on the funny car Denis. I hope there are more to come from you later on down the road. Very neat and clean. The Mooneyes Dragster I told you about is now part of the Don Garlit's racing museum here in Florida. Don Garlits was a local boy and as you can imagine, he was a driver I admired and followed closely as I grew up. Not many remember today, but Art Malone was a pioneer drag race/master engine builder. He and Garlits teamed up to build some very famous and record breaking dragsters. Here is a link to a great photo of the Mooneyes Dragster:
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That engine was used in the Revell kits of the Orange Crate and the Moon Eyes Dragster way back when. And yes, the supercharger is crankshaft driven through the timing cover. I have both those ancient kits in my stash by the way.
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Oh, one more thing...anyone have an idea of what color formation lights on the tops of the wings and rudders might have been. I'm guessing clear but I'm not sure and the references I have don't show that detail.
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Thanks for the comments and likes. To finish this model, I will add final details, final decals, and a dull clear coat. Will do a simple base for it to sit upon, maybe something like a grass runway and maybe a table or two to set the maintenance panels on. RE: the landing gear...they are an enigma to me. So long and spindly looking. Makes one wonder if they could have held up over time, particularly as a carrier based plane where aircraft are known for abusive conditions for landing gear. One plane that comes to mind is the F7F Tigercat. It had some very spindly legs as well but they seemed to hold up during the Korean War, so go figure.
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Drawing very near to the finish line for the J7W1 Shinden.
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Wow, that looks great Denis! Love the details 1/16 scale provides.
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I did this vintage gasser on here already in the past year, but I can start another one. Been thinking of doing an AA Fuel Altered.
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Green Elephant funny car by jct - FINISHED - 1/24 - PLASTIC
CDW replied to jct's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Between the sixties and seventies, safety zone grew a lot due to faster dragsters. Many drag strips had to take safety measures to remain open. 1/8 mile was an option I never liked much. -
I really like those decals. Going to be a great looking FC
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If you take a close look at the guns in this photo, notice that the guns were first painted, assembled and installed into the gun bays. Then the fuselage body panels were assembled and the entire airframe was painted (Japanese Green). All this was done without the guns being masked as it would have been difficult to do so. In any event, all it will take in the end is to dry brush them with the Mr Color Metal (dark iron) to regain that metal look. The Mr Color Metal paints are very good for dry brushing. Similar to the old Testors Metalizer paints, but superior. They can be buffed after airbrushing to give that polished metal look. With small parts like the gun barrels, the paint can be brushed on as well but it must be buffed to shine afterward. It's interesting how all the green color paint can be applied to the fuselage and the guns still retain most of their original look without masking.
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Yes, you brush it on, allow to it dry, then give it a wipe down with a soft paper towel that's very lightly moistened. The beauty of the Flory clay washes is that they will wash off. If you don't like the look, wash it off and rework it. As well, if you wipe too much off, just add some more. It's a very forgiving product. Of course, once you get the look you want, seal it down with a clear coat of your favorite varnish.
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After:
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The horrifying look of a freshly applied dirt and grime wash. Thought it interesting to show the "before", then "after" photos when it's done. This is a Flory Models clay wash, not a diluted acrylic, enamel, or oil wash. It behaves differently than these as you will see later on.
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Thanks for the kind words James. The Ki-45 will be released here on Feb 6. I have mine pre-ordered and am eagerly awaiting it.
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Yes, I believe you are correct. A local business who specialize in airbrush sales recently expanded their line of products to include GSI Creos products. Until then, these products were unavailable to me.
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There does seem to be a difference in the products offered for sale in the USA. Perhaps due to different environmental laws, but I am not certain. In the USA, Mr Hobby is the umbrella company, and their range of paints include Acrysion (acrylic) as well as Mr Color (solvent based). Either range works with their leveling thinner.
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I generally start with a 50-50 mix and adjust from there for best results. I've been using this new Mr Color Procon Boy Platinum airbrush for this build, and a 40-60 mix seemed to work best through it. So far, I like this airbrush a lot. It's good to have another quality airbrush available for a small cost compared to the H&S ones I normally use. Indeed, Mr Color leveling thinner is the best for color coats, but I find that isopropyl alcohol dries a little faster for me when I mix it for a primer. I guess it's just an old habit more than anything. The Mr Color Acrysion paints seen more akin to enamel to me. Maybe they are a acrylic-enamel hybrid of some sort, but I have only used their leveling thinner with them.
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Seems to have worked okay today. Keeping my fingers crossed. The only thing I'm noticing now is that the pictures displayed in my post are not in the same order I uploaded them, but that's no big deal. I can live with that.
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Just testing to see if my picture posting issue has been resolved.
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She is beautiful and fearsome looking at the same time. What a fantastic piece of German engineering.
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Sigh.... Only 4 of the 5 photos uploaded. 😵 1 photo failed to load for reasons unknown, but it's the same problem I've been experiencing all week long, along with other members. The wonky looking starboard panels over the gun bay and engine bay are being held in place with blue tack for painting purposes. The panels will later be left removed to display guns and engine details.
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