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CDW
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Everything posted by CDW
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I got some of the post shading done and wanted to see what kind of photos I could get get by taking them outdoors in natural light. It is cloudy and overcast today, but it's remarkable to me how much better outdoor light enhance color photographs. I also wanted to check to see if rebooting my modem solved the picture posting issue I'm having.
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It's more of a case of: there is not another decent model of the Ki-45 Nick out there aside from the ancient 1:48 scale Nichimo kit that was produced when you and I were kids (or close to it). Quite a surprise to see Zoukei-Mura coughing up the dough to take a roll of the dice on a Ki-45 kit. I think it deserves support from modelers who want subject material that's been unavailable until now. I'm pumped up over the Ki-45, for sure.
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First paint coat before post shading, touch ups, and detailing, top and bottom. Frog masking tape (disclaimer: no frogs were harmed during the masking and painting of this model) 😵 Top: Mr. Color Acrysion #36 IJN Green (40%) + Mr Color Leveling Thinner (60%) Bottom: Mr. Color Acrysion #61 IJN Gray (40%) + Mr Color Leveling Thinner (60%) Post shading (to be done later): Mr. Color Acrysion #60 IJA Green Detailing: Flory Models Washes (plan on using brown for the time being) (one photo of top looks ultra light because of camera flash too bright/white)
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Magnificent. All your attention to the small details has really paid off. Very impressive model.
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- BlueJacket Shipcrafters
- Stephen Hopkins
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One of my favorite online hobby shops is spruebrothers.com I went to the site yesterday with the intention of ordering another copy of the Shinden. But then I saw where Zoukei Mura will release for sale the Ki-45 Nick on February 6. I ended up buying the Nick instead. 🙂
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Here she has just received her coat of primer. For primer, I used Tamiya flat white xf-2 reduced with IP alcohol in a ratio of 6 parts alcohol to 4 parts xf-2. The closeup photos are for @Imagna The canards have flaps. I just may get the paint job done sooner than I thought. Keeping my fingers crossed.
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Yes, there was an unsuccessful flight attempt (1st) where the prop struck the ground on takeoff/aircraft rotation. There are small caster wheels attached to the lower portion of the vertical stabilizers. Perhaps these were an addition after the first unsuccessful takeoff. As you may know, this airplane was designed for navy/carrier use. The videos depict the aircraft taking off from what appears to be a grass runway. Perhaps the casters dug into the ground allowing the prop to strike the earth, then again, maybe there were no casters on the first flight attempt. In either event, a takeoff from a carrier deck would be much different than a takeoff from a grass runway and would likely yield different results. As for the canards, I do think they were functional as the model clearly shows movable flaps. I have no plans for a diorama for this model. When I enter it in the coming show in April, will offer it for sale. Maybe on a 2nd build, I will consider doing a diorama along with other changes/things I will do differently. Learned a lot putting this first one together. Not certain the kit is still in production though.
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Yes, it appears it did. However it was never given operational status as far as I know.
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Thanks OC. I'm just trying to keep pace with all the fine work you're doing on the Pearl.
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Thanks Denis. Can you imagine how hard-hitting four 37mm auto-cannons would be? These things were designed to annihilate B-29's.
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Wow, this looks amazing. All that hard work you've done is really coming together down the stretch.
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I say we gas this baby up, take her out to the street in front of your house and light those big slicks with a burnout or two just to test it out. Lookin' great, Denis!
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Thank you Richmond. I appreciate that. Getting ever so close to the overall painting stage now. Need to add the vertical stabilizers, the canards, flaps and ailerons, first before beginning the paint work. The panels you see removed over the engine and gun bays will stay removed for display purposes. I hope to get paint on the model over the coming weekend but that may be too ambitious. Will just have to wait and see how it goes. This "upload failed" fiasco continues. Some of my pictures uploaded, some did not. Apparently I'm not the only one having this problem but it may be regional to some extent.
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Beautiful model. Just think, when your great grandfather built that model, the ship had only been gone 40 years or less. Almost contemporary for his time. $86,000 dollars was a fortune to have earned on the first voyage as stated by placard. Amazing history in several ways. As for a box, I would consider building myself a wooden frame, perhaps from 1" x 2" or similar, then covering the frame with 3/8" or 1/4" plywood. Cardboard is too flimsy if you plan to store it that way for a long while. Just my opinion of course.
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Excellent choice of decals/scheme. I like the graphics on that car.
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You did an amazing job with the kit stock wiring and plumbing. That stuff is a real challenge. Everything coming along so nice.
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With Pontos detail sets, the dry transfers are the waterline marks. Not sure about Mark 1, but I would guess they are like Pontos in that regard.
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Over time, I have built many, many, model aircraft. This one is a totally different animal. To be honest, it would take a 2nd build to really feel I had done my best with it because it's too difficult to see what's ahead as you build the 1st one. There are lots of things I would do different in a 2nd attempt.
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It took today's allotment of time to paint and fit the exhaust collectors to the engine panels, then fit the engine panels and rear engine cowling to the fuselage. Getting all this to fit is tricky to say the least. To a moderator (if one is reads this)....in the past few days, I am having lots of issues trying to upload photos to MSW threads. Keep getting a "upload failed" 200 error message. Is this a problem on my side or is it a server side issue? Never had it happen before now.
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Oh yeah, heat, sunlight, and humidity are major killers of decals. A couple of little tricks... 1. you can tape a "yellowed" decal sheet to your window for the day and the natural light will bleach it back to clear. 2. Future floor polish (now known as Pledge brand) airbrushed to cover an old decal sheet and allowed to dry will cure micro cracking. After the Future has been applied, you will of course need to cut each and every decal out with a pair of scissors.
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All the skins are fitting together nicely now (keeping my fingers crossed. This session's mock up has the engine test fitted into it's place.
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Beautiful gold finish on those parts...I really like it. Did you use their base black as a primer before applying the gold finish?
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I have some funny car decals you can have, but they are not specifically for a Ford Mustang funny car. I have an 8 1/2" x 11" sheet of white decal paper you can have as well if you would rather do your own. Just find the color images you want in the scale you want, save them to a flash drive, then take the decal paper with flash drive to Kinkos or Office Depot and they can laser copy them for you on your decal paper. The only thing you need to do yourself is give them a clear coat after they are printed and before you put them in water. I have done this many times with my ink jet printer.
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I have a 1:4 scale Stampe SV-4 in my stash, an RC flying model. Beautiful airplane and very aerobatic.
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