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CDW

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Everything posted by CDW

  1. Looks like the shipping box dimensions are 17.6" x 10.4" x 10.2". So I imagine the hull length is somewhere near 17" in length. I have this model in 1:350 scale and it's length is around/about 9" - 10". Not huge, but a large enough scale that it will have great detail potential. The only reservation I have about the model is that it's main construction is resin. Not my favorite medium, but it's likely this model will be a very limited production run. They're probably not investing a ton of money in molds and instead going the limited production, resin production run.
  2. Here, I've masked and painted the lower half of the lower superstructure red, and the funnel yellow. The red is Mr Color Acrysion flat red, the yellow is Tamiya flat yellow.
  3. Dry fit to check fit. The fun part is coming soon...the weathering, ropes and nick nack details.
  4. I bought the 1:144 Revell Snowberry a few months ago, but held off on starting it until detail sets came out for it. Today, the upcoming Pontos detail set came up for pre-order and I snagged one before they get sold out. These Pontos sets come and go quickly sometimes and I didn't want to miss it. It will add a lot to the Revell Snowberry kit. https://freetimehobbies.com/1-144-pontos-model-hmcs-snowberry-flower-class-super-detail-set-for-revell-preorder/
  5. That ice breaker model comes complete with all the Pontos details as best I can tell.
  6. The hull red and black hull colors do not lend well to a defined water line. So I thought it might look better if I created a thin white later line. To do so, I cut a thin strip of white decal paper to a width that looks suitable and apply it along the waterline. The decal paper is ink jet waterslide paper sold by a company that's now defunct, Bel Decals. I was sad to learn they went tango uniform, but fortunately for me, I bought white and clear decal paper in bulk packs of 25 each, 8 1/2" x 11" sheets, before they went the way of the Dodo Bird.
  7. The model's hull had a raised, molded on water line mark that looked to be in an identical position as the waterline in the picture. It's what I followed in any event.
  8. I believe this 1:250 ship model that's coming out soon has my name written all over it. Man, this thing is so darned tempting! https://freetimehobbies.com/1-250-lighthouse-models-antarctica-observation-ship-soya-plastic-model-kit-preorder/
  9. Really nice save/reconstruction of that chassis. Great looking green color on the sheet metal as well. What color/paint is that? Almost looks like a clear green over aluminum.
  10. Another round of masking and painting this morning after adding the fenders to the sides of the hull. Tamiya rubber black + Mr Color leveling thinner
  11. I didn't choose to do it, but was tempted to model this old hulk:
  12. Deck is Mr Color Acrysion red + Mr Color Leveling Thinner, bulwarks are Tamiya rubber black + Mr Color Leveling Thinner. Bulwarks are just sitting on deck, not cemented in place yet.
  13. My color scheme for the tug will be a black hull and bulwarks, red upper deck and lower main deck, white main superstructure, red bottom and white top upper superstructure, red railings, yellow and black funnel. Everything will be weathered and detailed to look like a well worn tug. Will probably use a fictitious name of my own choosing for the boat with waterslide decals of my own making.
  14. After the Tamiya White primer, the hull bottom got 2 coats of Tamiya Hull Red reduced with Mr. Color Leveling Thinner. Above the water line will be black. Prior, the rudder support was glued to the hull before adding the rudder and prop shaft bearing. Some Tamiya fill and sanding was needed on the hull-rudder support join. To be expected on an old kit like this. Fit is often sloppy. I will look through my spares box to try and find a replacement prop. The prop supplied with the kit looks horrible.
  15. I shot some flat white Tamiya paint reduced with alcohol as a primer on the hull and deck, and on the bulwarks. The halves on the bulwarks were glued together before they were primed and will be installed after the main deck has been painted red. The bulwarks will be black. This will help avoid a tricky masking job on the bulwarks.
  16. If you take on an old kit like this, you will spend time sanding and filling to get a presentable finish.
  17. I am not a fan of clear.
  18. I pre ordered the 1:32 Zoukei-Mura Ki-45 Nick. Today it arrived on my doorstep via FedEx. The shipping box was very large and at first I thought they used an oversized box to help protect the model kit inside, but once I picked it up, immediately knew from the weight of it there was a whole lot of plastic inside this box. Taking it inside and opening the shipping box, it dawned on me what a huge kit this is. Opening the kit box, you find another box inside that one - for extra rigidity. When you get inside that box, you find tree after tree of model airplane parts...almost 600 of them. One of the reasons for the high parts count is that Zoukei-Mura decided to mold the outer skins in both clear plastic as well as opaque, giving the modeling the option to decide whether he wants a clear outer skin to show off all that amazing inner detail or use the opaque skin and just concentrate on getting a beautiful painted finish. Either way, this model is just loaded with detail and looks to be nothing short of amazing in the details it offers. I am going to start this build thread by showing about half the parts trees inside the box. In a later installment, I'll show the other parts, the instruction booklet, and the decals. I will slowly start this thread, then gradually build up momentum once I finish a couple of other small projects. Maybe it's pie in the sky, but I hope to have this model finished by mid April 2019. We'll see.
  19. The hull had the typical raised letters used by Revell and others in that era to indicate their copyright date. The main deck had raised details that needed to be removed along with some other extraneous and unsightly irregularities. After cutting those away, I had some gouge marks that needed a quick swipe of Tamiya White Putty then a sanding after the putty dried. The deck was then attached to the hull with Tamiya thin liquid cement and held in place to dry with rubber bands. I believe those removed raised details (mostly coils of rope) will be easy to recreate with appropriate sized thread and will look much better at the end of the build.
  20. Oh yeah, a vent makes sense. The model has several of these molded onto the superstructure. I will sand away the molded ones and scratch build those. Some of the molded on details look pretty crappy on this kit to be honest about it. It's gotta go.
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