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CDW
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Thanks Denis -
Phantom Henry J Gasser by jct - FINISHED - 1/24 scale - PLASTIC
CDW replied to jct's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
I remember this license plate site, or one like it, from many years ago. How the heck did you find it? Nice find. I had forgotten all about it until now. I used to be part of 'Model Car List', an email model car forum of sorts. The thing shrunk away members over the years until there's hardly nothing left. Model car hobby was huge at one time. -
Yes...I thought I had run out of the Xtreme Metal primer. Turns out I had only misplaced it. Tamiya as a primer worked just fine. Just like it works fine with Alclad as well.
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Moving right along...began doing the airframe paint work today. The kit color call-out indicates light olive as the airframe color. I chose to use the Mr Hobby Acrysion line of paint for this one. With this paint, it is important to use their thinners for best results. It's more unforgiving that Tamiya paints which can adapt to several different reducers. With Acrysion, only their cleaner and Mr Hobby 400 leveling thinner will do a proper job of reducing the paint and cleanup afterward. Water, or even alcohol won't touch this paint for cleanup. it's listed as an acrylic, but it seems to me it has more the qualities of a lacquer paint rather than a water based acrylic. Water based it is not. That I can tell you for sure. I pre shaded before putting on the main coat/s of paint. The Acrysion paints work you a little harder than Tamiya or some of the other acrylics out there while you're laying down the paint. It also takes longer to dry. But it dries to a beautifully smooth semi gloss finish. That I believe is due to the self leveling qualities of the reducer. Causes it to dry slower and smooth itself out. Here are some photos of the preshaded paint.
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If the truth was known, the Revell kit was probably molded for them by Trumpeter in the first place as Revell kits sure as heck are not made in Germany or the USA. Modelers would be surprised by how many manufactured kits are actually made by the same factory. I know of at least 4 or 5 companies who label kits as their own but are made by Trumpeter. That's just the way it is. A friend of mine goes to China and has the factory make electronic RC aircraft components for him that he labels as his own and sells in the USA. These components are the same thing that's sold by other well known brands, made at the same factory assembly line. Happens all the time every day.
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I don't know what it is, but it's something unique to the Missouri. I just looked through my 1:200 Pontos Iowa update set and it does not have it.
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These days, when your government can take your photograph and use your image for whatever purpose they may deem necessary (facial recognition), all without your permission, we have problems much larger than model submarines. Having said that, I sure hope to see someone start a build log on this impressive plastic monstrosity. Huge project! By the way, that RC sub site is quite impressive as well.
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Okay, now I know what you mean. However, I was looking at your finished model and thinking how the rigging for your torpedo net booms might be very similar to what would have been found on the Mikasa I was working on. I temporarily stopped construction when it came to the torpedo net boom rigging because I had no idea how the booms were rigged. The Pontos set for my Mikasa did not come with a drilling template.
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I'll have to go back and re-read though this thread. I am unaware of a template that holds the net. My Pontos set did not come with anything like that, nor gave any indication of how it might be done. In any case, yours came out great.
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The entire model is an outstanding piece of work, but the way you figured out that torpedo net rigging then modeled it is most impressive. It's quite a maze of rope, cables, and pulleys. What kind of Jedi mind tricks did you use to keep the net held in place while you lined it up and rigged it to the booms? That's clearly an alignment nightmare to overcome.
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Brother, you done GOOD! I only recently realized how good cell phone photos can be. Maybe in some cases even better than cameras that cost quite a bit. Your photos look great to me, I like them a lot.
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Phantom Henry J Gasser by jct - FINISHED - 1/24 scale - PLASTIC
CDW replied to jct's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Every 4th of July my dad would take us to Daytona for the Firecracker 400. Saw all the great drivers and iconic cars of the 60's and early 70's. My dad was a huge race fan for just about any racing venue...horse races, car races, motorcycle races. Have great memories of those things. In the 60's, my dad and older brothers chipped in together and bought a racing go kart. A Dart Kart. It had twin Westbend racing engines. That thing was crazy fast and dangerous, too. My brother darn near killed himself in that thing. -
Phantom Henry J Gasser by jct - FINISHED - 1/24 scale - PLASTIC
CDW replied to jct's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Denis hit the jackpot with that Sox and Martin super stock kit. That's a very fine kit in my opinion. Looks great when finished. I think I have one of those, unbuilt in my garage. Now it will bug me until I go search. -
Here are close up photos of the repaired areas after painting with aluminum. As you know, shiny aluminum color will show up any and every scratch like a magnifying glass. Here there are none. Looks more like a welded seam instead. Also, another benefit of the Xtreme Metal paints...they do not discolor or peel like other metallic paints like Metalizer or Alclad paints will do when masking tape is applied then removed. Really a tough durable finish unlike it's brethren paints.
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You are exactly right Denis. Let the liquid cement do the work...and DON"T get your fingerprints into it.
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Both things are happening Mark. The glue softens the stretched sprue and then it can be gently pushed into the gap. By using the thin liquid cement, the plastic sprue sorta' melts into the gap. I use the back side of a small pair of tweezers to push the softened sprue into the gap. After it's all in place, I give it all another pass with liquid glue.
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I agree whole heartedly. It's a lot of fun seeing the Black Pearl come alive with detail like this. You'll have one-of-a-kind when you're done with her.
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I forgot to mention...after the base coat of Tamiya gloss black goes down and paint is thoroughly dry, I give it a light polishing/wet sanding with 6000 wet or dry paper before the Xtreme Metal color goes on to ensure a more perfect finish.
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Thanks OC. It's just another modeler's tool to add to the tool bag.
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Main float - base coat is Tamiya gloss black; finish coat is AK Interactive Xtreme Metal aluminum. Similar to Alclad, the Xtreme Metal paints go down in very light coats, not heavy. Difference between Xtreme Metal and Alclad is the former requires no clear coat while Alclad does.
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While I was working on the next step of the Arado build, ran across one of the only fit issues I've found with this kit. It's a very minor but annoying gap that appears when the top of the main float is attached to the two sides. Not only is the gap annoying, but it would be very noticeable once the part is finished and painted. When you look closely, there is fine engraved detail all around the small gaps. Filler putty and sanding would potentially cause one to lose a lot of that detail. Over the years, I learned to use stretched sprue with thin liquid cement to fill in these small gaps without obliterating the surrounding detail. The following photos show the gaps and how I use the stretched sprue with thin liquid cement to fill them in. As you will see, the gaps are nicely filled without even sanding...and the surrounding details are all left totally intact. If you haven't tried this method of gap filling, give it a try. It's cheap, easy to do, and very effective.
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🙂 Thanks Denis. I can bring and enter up to 10 models, with lots of different categories/sub categories available. I have attended this particular event for decades since it's so close to home. They used to hold the event at a hotel/resort on the gulf and we would always make a weekend stay of it. Wife and kids loved it back in the day. The vendor area alone is worth a visit - there are always bargains to be found.
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