JeffT

Thank You....I just added more images of the contemporary model to the gallery album. 
 
Also this is a good one that shows the cathead as you guys will soon be adding it to your model.   Interesting white painted panels but I didnt care for that look.  So I am going all natural.  Again note how the bottom edge of the cathead lines up with the bottom edge of the molding on the hull.  Keep this reference in mind when you cut those notched.   Outboard side of notch to the molding like this.  The inboard side is taken all the way down to the deck.
 

 

 
 

Thank you, Jeff and Keith!

More photos, explanations as follows...I'll call this set "Drilling and sawing"...necessities.
 
The rigging pulleys ( I believe the braces)  along the bulwark sides (2 places, each side) do align nicely with the built-up woodwork, but I chose to run a drill through them so that there is free clearance when it comes to rigging. Getting the line through the pulley UNDER the shroud stool will be lots o' fun!
 
First. drilling the catheads. Although not detailed in the manual, I know that when rigging rears it's head, I'll want to have the anchors trussed-up nicely near the cathead weighing lines. Good idea to have rope passing through the cathead for this. The small, cleverly built-up pieces have photo-etched tiny holes that...uh, go nowhere. That is, until I took my #72 thumb drill (.61mm dia) and pierced all six holes (love these little buggers). Make sure to drill on a flat surface and hold your drill as perpendicular as you can since it's easy to miss and drill off center, which would not be good.*
 
*Ignore this commentary should you be building the Sphinx kit as an "admiralty-styled" model without rigging, which I suspect some will do as it is designed at least partially for this specific modeling approach.
 
By test fitting the catheads into the foc'sle surround you'll quickly see that the "openings" for mounting these to the deck are inadequate and rather than try to coax an opening to fit the cathead into the bulwarks through via a square hole with a file and X-acto knife, I decided to saw a tight-fitting slot from the top nearly all the way down to the deck surface. Some may already note that there are TWO (2) additional wrap-around pear wood pieces that must also be mounted to this bulwark arrangement (to basically thicken it). These will also need the "slice" in order to accommodate the cathead(s). Shown here: the starboard cathead is temporarily plugged into place (purposeful tight tolerance here) and the port side shows the opening I've made for each. Be careful to not saw down too far on the exterior of the prow. I did pop-out the corresponding S & P gunwales to check that the depth-of-mounting for the steeply-angled catheads would be adequate to sit below this finishing pattern provided as a single, long piece (both sides). I'll see very soon how the cathead's external supports mate-up and meet as they should. 
 
There is some tricky modifying here to both the PLYWOOD as well as pear patterns; I have no idea why one would try to fiddle this area by opening the square holes to allow the catheads to fall into place properly (through three separate stacked pieces, on each side). Perhaps I'm missing something here, but when holding the gunwales to their respective mounting positions, the fit of the cathead to the deck and below the gunwale looks fine to me: no gaps, weird, wrong angles, etc.
 

Since I'm playing "catch-up" with my postings I'll mention that these first Build Log photos are NOT SEQUENTIAL. Obviously, I've spent a number of hours getting to point A (the first photo-😁)...and these photos I'll explain, but there may be random "backtracks" as I continue here.
 
The Gratings and the companionway close-up: the purpose here is highlighting the little black beads that simulate cannonballs which are a nice scale-accurate (or close to it) inclusion in the kit's "fittings" box. The little balls were too shiny for me; my 5 yo granddaughter  asked me: "Gampy, where did you get those cute little beads?"...uh... Good question, out of the mouth of babes. So I went back painted all of them FLAT BLACK MATTE. Just a tiny touch to each with a small brush. They now look like iron balls and not something random one finds in the beading aisle at Joanne's Fabrics. Not a big deal, but we collectively agonize over minor stuff like this; it's sort of what this hobby is all about- sort of. You don't need to look too close to see the ordnance as they appear in shiny bead black. 
 
Next photo, a close-up of deck goodies showing: A. a breech-rigged cannon; B. how I've finished my upper interior bulwarks (with the kit's included spirketting and laser cut deck clamp pieces); C. the hanging knees behind the quarterdeck beams; and D. the pump's iron fittings (also in flat black matte paint to show proper - non rusted - iron) and mid-deck bitts and a partial companionway (with the little "beads").
 
I am often asked how I get the nice warm look to most of my period models. Nothing unusual here: four shades of Minwax, available at Lowe's. Natural, (my favorite for most quality hardwoods I use and the extensive amount of pear that's included in this kit; Golden Oak for areas that I want to appear darker than the warm pink hue of pear and simulate a more accurate color for oak; Weathered Oak whose name speaks for itself. I used this on this kit's maple, one-piece deck patterns ("patterns" is a general name Vanguard gives to many pre-cut, precision lasered items in this kit). I've applied this stain to the gun deck. I may apply a "second coat" before I button-up everything amidships. A can not shown ( I misplaced it, somewhere...), Chestnut stain. This color I use on my deadeyes and most rigging blocks. I understand chestnut was used extensively by the British navy for this purpose - along with lignum vitae pulleys, both purpose-suited because of their inherent hardness. I'll stain my deadeyes soon, before they get mounted in their iron chains.
 
It should be noted that I paint and stain all my modeling components as I build. I am constantly opening and closing various jars and cans as I build. Simply stated, I make "aesthetic decisions" as I work; these are typically about color of individual component finishes - like cannon balls! I also depart quite often from proscribed building steps for a host of reasons which should become apparent as I develop this log. I need to mention that the build manual and the extensive plans that come with this kit are excellent and generally-speaking, the construction steps are sequenced in a manner that most will appreciate, especially intermediate level modelers.
 
Lastly, the tools I use to remove "char" from all the laser-cut wood in the kit. I've probably spent 60 hours alone (so far) removing "Char."🤯
My tools for this boring, but essential task: lots of emery/nail sanding files I buy at beauty supply stores. They last forever. But I buy new ones often as I frequently wash them and they soften and go limp after a while. Everyone knows there's not a lot you can do with a limp file.
When I'm de-charing, I often slap the file on my jeans (don't tell my wife) to unpack the fine sanding dust. Works. But they do eventually need to be taken to the sink. Moving on, two from my set of diamond-encrusted mini-files shown here. The tapered round one is especially useful. Worth the money. My soft, sable hair brush. The brush I continually use on all the various surfaces of the model for clean-up as I build. It is helpful to dust the char off tiny pieces like the miniscule hanging knees shown here. The curved stem piece appears to cast a shadow; actually that's the very dark "char" that needs to be diligently removed. Goodbye Char!
 
And, yes. I did leave it on all my cannon carriage wheels. Good idea, Jim! The manual says this is an option. I obviously agree.
 
More to come....
 
 

I received a very nice delivery from UPS this morning. Yes the V2 kit has arrived.
 

 
 
My plan with the V2 Sphinx kit build is to:
 
a) take my time, making sure I am totally happy with everything before parts are finally assembled
b) try to be much more careful with this build, my aim is to significantly reduce the number of silly mistakes I normally make
c) try out some different ideas to improve my building skills, using the additional spare parts I've ordered.
d) take note of the lessons learnt so far with my current build, which has become a practice build
e) to have fun and to enjoy the V2 Sphinx kit build and to start and keep a build log charting my progress.
f) to continue with the V1 kit build for the time being which is now being used as a practice build.

Another little update.
 
Since the beginning of 28th September until last week, we had builders here to convert our garage into a proper unit, split into two rooms, one room for the laser cutting and raw materials, and another for packing (and gym...). They did quote 2 weeks, but it was over 5 weeks. We have a new roof, floor levelled and walls skinned in OSB boards, including the partition.
 
All new shelving arrived yesterday, so this week we are fitting the rooms out. Next Monday my new laser machine arrives, so I will be able to develop much larger kits (Sphinx is the largest I could go with my current machine, unless I split the keel, and I prefer not to do that if at all possible)
 
I now have all Vanguard Models kits in stock, after a nightmare couple of months chasing suppliers up with my orders (notably, photo etched brass). As I have mentioned, because of the headaches this has caused me lately, my next three kits are having the photo etched sheets produced locally here in the UK. They cost more, but then again, all photo etch  suppliers are increasing prices anyway, due to shortages of raw materials.
 
Right now, I am laser cutting the Nisha and Erycina production parts. Today I received the 3-d printed castings for the kits, as well as sample sail sets for each. The production versions are being made now, so will hopefully be ready in time for the kit releases.
 
I have read all the build logs, most notably the Sphinx logs. When designing/developing Sphinx, my design philosophy for this kit (aside from wanting to develop kits that I would want to buy) was to make the build as painless as possible for builders who were used to kits like Fly, Vanguard, Duchess etc.. So intermediate modellers.
 
I wanted to include cut parts that are never really included in older kits, where these parts are either left off altogether, or the modeller needs to make them from strips of wood or blocks of wood. All they then need is final finishing and, in some cases, like the quarter gallery, all three edges require shaping. But for the most part, if the parts are not painted, the top and bottom edges need slight filing/sanding to remove the char, which, being laser cut, I can do nothing about. Sphinx will still take a while to build, but a lot of that time should be cleaning up pre cut parts, and not making them from scratch.
 
In summary,  wooden model kits are not designed to fall together when you shake the box (as many allude to Tamiya), but each part still needs to be worked on and test fitted multiple times, and maybe adjusted, before fitting. Sphinx takes 8 hours to produce each kit.
 
I have said before, if I designed each kit like most other mainstream manufacturers, I could honestly produce a dozen or so new kits per year, as there's really nothing to them. But where is the fun/challenge in that?
 
When we get time, we will add a section on my website, grading each kit according to the experience required to build each kit.
 
Cheers,
 
Chris

The other approach to reduce sanding is the scrape the char with a #11 blade.  A lot of it can be removed quickly leaving a lot less to sand. Of course holding these small parts in one hand with a blade in your other hand requires extreme caution and going very slow.

Hi Melissa. Thanks for your service. Welcome to MSW. 
 

Just a quick update, the bulkhead screen which was curled has now been straightened with an "invisible mend" I used a thin plank glued to the deck keep the bulkhead screen straight along its length. Looks much better now.
 

 
I have started to fit the side infill parts. On the next build I think I might change the sequence and fit the infills to the aft bulkhead before fitting the forward bulkhead so there is a bit more room to play with. I need to get my brush out to dust away the unwanted particles, which can be seen in the photo below.
 

 
I received a very nice delivery from UPS this morning. Yes the V2 kit has arrived.
 

 
My plan with the V2 Sphinx kit build is to:
 
a) take my time, making sure I am totally happy with everything before parts are finally assembled
b) try to be much more careful with this build, my aim is to significantly reduce the number of silly mistakes I normally make
c) try out some different ideas to improve my building skills, using the additional spare parts I've ordered
d) take note of the lessons learnt so far with my current build, which has become a practice build
e) to have fun and to enjoy the V2 Sphinx kit build and to start and keep a build log charting my progress.
 
 
 

Post Thirty-two
 Planking by numbers, the Pearwood journey begins.
Soaked and clamped the patterns are shaped to the hull form.

0985(2)
While I wait for the planking patterns to dry out I make up a  range of sanding sticks using P240 grade paper.

0983(2)
Some of them are size specific ie for gunports, others narrower to get into smaller places.
Small ones are also used for char removal on small pieces.
Once the initial bite has gone from the papers I use the older ones for finer sanding.
 
Time to fit those pretty planking strip patterns.
I begin the fixing by clamping the Rear upper pattern in its correct position, and then trial fitting the Fore pattern to ensure that everything lines up before committing to glue.

0996
I keep a jar of clean water handy to wash off any glue marks that may get on the Pearwood surface from handling.

0997
I fit the upper aft patterns next, and repeat the process for the lower patterns.
I think I exhausted my entire eclectic stock of  clamps on this.

0999
The lower patterns I found more tricky to fit as they had a tendency to curl on the bottom edge, requiring pinning. There was also a slight mismatch  on some of the port edges even tho’ the sections seemed to meet up in the critical areas.
 
I had originally contemplated planking the lower portion  of the pattern area, but once again find myself seduced by Chris’s design.

1012(2)
The only modifications I made was to remove the closed lids of the Bridle ports on the fore sections, and  cut the doorway for the Quarter gallery on the aft sections.

1011
The doorways were cut post fitting from the opposite side of the hull by marking the outline with micro drill holes.

1003
I use a drill ca’d into a length of dowel for reach.*
I otherwise followed the arrangement set out in the manual.
* This is a useful device for drilling holes in bulwarks where space and angle are an issue.
With Sphinx, Chris has thoughtfully pre drilled the holes for the gun tackle  hardware, so no drilling is necessary.

1015
With the patterns in place I am better able to see what is required regarding port linings.

1013

1018(2)
It is a bit of a pain, but leaving the core of mdf uncovered is not something I would want to do.
Linings or stops are a pretty basic addition to a build of this scale, and consist of a cill and two sides, there is no top lining.
Again I will use 0.6mm Boxwood strip,(true scale) anything thicker would reduce the port sizes too much.
I will defer this job and fit it in with other work over the next couple of stages.
 
Following on from the patterns there are two further strakes of pre spiled planking, but before these are fitted I need to look at the outer patterns for the stem, keel, and sternpost, and the outer lower counter pattern.
 
B.E.
02/11/21
 
 

Prior to retiring a few years ago I stockpiled a few kits to build.  The eyes have since gone and I have a few kits left over that I'm willing to give to anyone willing or able to come pick them up.  I don't want to mess with mailing anything.  I live in the Zanesville, Ohio area.
 
I have Model Shipways Newsboy, HMS Bounty Launch and Flying Fish.
I also have Model Trailways Concord Stagecoach.
All kits are new and complete.
 
I have two of the Model Shipways USS Niagara boxes stuffed full of wood and spare items from my futile attempts to build that kit three times.  All three attempts were abandoned at varying stages.  Lots of stuff in them.
 
I have extra line, barrels, buckets, fixtures, paints, sail cloth so on and so forth that are also all part of the give-away.
 
It's either give them away or toss 'em onto the burn pile so come and get 'em.
 

Hello everyone,
 
I've been lurking on the site for a while and have been extremely impressed with the quality of advice and experience shared here!  I'm a 61-year old retired woman living happily in Saratoga Springs, NY.  (I suspect I'm one of the very few women on this site!)  I have long admired wooden ship models that I have seen displayed in various museums around the world over the years for their intricacy and accuracy.  I've wanted to take the plunge and build my own for some time now, and have been reading up on the topic.  With the winter now approaching, it seemed an opportune time for a good indoor project such as this.
 
The advice to beginners on MSW is excellent and on the mark.  Though I would love to build the Viking Drakkar, a Greek Bireme, and of course - given where I live - Henry Hudson's Half Moon, I've decided to start with the Swampscott Dory from Bluejacket to gain some basic skills and experience.  It looks fun, but still challenging, and I'm totally fine if it takes me six months or so to finish it.  I'm more interested in the process than the finish line.  I'll be closely consulting the build logs of others who have built this kit to learn from their experiences (and so I can make my own original mistakes!)
 
A bit about me - I'm a retired Army officer (Military Intelligence branch) and I was fortunate to live and travel throughout Europe and the Middle 
East.  I'm an avid and lifelong amateur astronomer, another hobby requiring a lot of patience and gradual skill-building.  I am interested in and read extensively on the history of the ancient world and the early modern period of the 17th and early 18th centuries.  I'm fortunate to live where I do, at the nexus of New Netherland, New France, and New England.  I look forward to participating on this site and learning more about this fascinating hobby!
 
Melissa T.

Here are the final shots as promised.
 

















 

Its going to be a spectacular model Craig but the port holes are a significant piece of work. And now I know what Kentucky windage is
Alan

I added the breasthook at the bow.  This was straight forward.  It is laser cut.  Unlike the one on the gun deck at the bow I cut this one in one piece.  So you may have to adjust and tweak it to fit snug and tight against the bulwarks a the bow.   Dont forget to chamfer the top and bottom edge on the aft side.  That is customary.   Unlike last time you see I also added some bolts.  There are four on each arm or side of the breasthook.  I used 30lb black fishing line for this.
 

In the same photo above you can also see the cathead I made.  But most important in that photo is the slot for the cathead.  Note how it has been notched out with a sharp chisel and blade.  I did so on the inboard side right down to the deck.   Take the INBOARD side down to the margin plank.  Remove the waterway as well.  Do this carefully.  You will need sharp chisels or blades.  Careful not to mar the deck.
 
On the outboard side it is a bit different.  See below.  I only notched the outboards side down to the top of the frieze.....OR better yet described, remove the fancy molding where the  notch will be.  Then deepen the notch down to the bottom edge of the molding that remains.  Its not as deep as the inboard side.  This is what will give the cathead its proper angle.
 

I hope this makes sense so far...
 
The catheads...
 

These are pretty easy to make but dont rush it.   The main cathead is in three layers.   The two outboard layers define its shape.  They line up with the front or OUTBOARD end of the cathead.   But this is very important.  The goal here is to not show the seams between the three layers if possible.  To minimize this, you MUST thoroughly clean the char from the edges of the center piece.  Its 1/4" thick boxwood so there is a lot of char.  Dont be afraid to scrape it and sand it.  I compensated for this and if you dont clean it well enough, the two outside sheaves of the cathead will be too wide.   So do go ahead and sand away!!!  Also test the sides periodically to check the width of the two outer sheave slots.   
 
Glue the layers up with tite-bond.  Make sure you line everything up and center the side pieces up and down.  Then sand them smooth top and bottom.  But also sand the center to the shape of the outside layers.  That shape is very important.  Note the finished cathead in the photo above.  Use a sharp chisel to get most of the heavy stuff off and when you get close to the shape switch over to a sanding stick.  Sand it to match the shape....test it in the slot on the model.  ONE MORE NOTE:  the front side of each cathead is NOT at a 90 degree angle.  It isnt supposed to be.  It is a much steeper angle actually and that is a detail not usually shown n models.  The angle of the front of the cathead is important and before you glue the star onto it you should make sure its flat and shaped appropriately.  Look at the laser cut sheet and I think you can better see the actual shape of the cathead on the side panels.  I made sure I gave you guys an extra cathead just in case.
 
The front piece is similar.  It has that wonderful star pattern etched onto it.  Sand the four sides flush.  But also try and scrape some of the char away from the perimeter of the star.  I used the tip of a #11 blade to scrape away a good amount of the char around the outside of the star.  It cleaned up really good.  I found it easier to do after I glue it onto the cathead.
 
Test it on the model...
 

In this photo above you will also notice how I added an iron band around the outboard end.  Its very thin.  I just used some black tape for this.  Dont make this too heavy and wide.  Just a really thin band.   Use the seam from the star piece as a guide.  Cover up that seam or at least put the band right up against it.   It really finishes it off wouldnt you say?
 
When positioning it....the inboard side is also very very important.  Remember you want it to look like one piece with the cat tail under the beams.  Do your best to line them up assuming you positioned all that stuff carefully enough early on.  
 
See below.  we are just trying to simulate the cathead and cat tail being in one piece.  Do the best you can.  Its a very difficult part to make otherwise.  Especially with a cathead as detailed as this one.  Oh and yes there are laser cut sheaves for the cathead as well.  You can see them in the photos.  Just glue them into the slots for them.  
 

I am not sure I pulled it off 100% but its real close.  I am happy with the results.  Especially after looking at how the catheads are usually portrayed on most kits.  They seem like afterthoughts.  But they are an important detail in my opinion. 
 

Now to do the other side....any comments or questions??

I have completed the task of fitting the cabin bulkhead assemblies. I need to rethink this task when I redo this on the V2 kit build
 
The instructions state "Glue the corresponding parts together using wood glue and clamp all the way around so the parts can’t curl. It’s important to make sure that everything is aligned properly" As soon as I applied the titebond the bulkheads started to curl. I clamped the assemblies as shown in the build manual, however once I removed the clamps all three bulkhead assemblies were curled. I dampened the bulkheads and clamped them against a flat surface overnight. The bulkheads were still curled once the clamps were removed. I tried clamping the bulkheads again once the window panes and frames were fitted. The window panes and frames were secured in place using acrylic varnish, as per the build instruction recommendation. Next time around I need to get the window panes better positioned so there is room for the frames to be located within the openings both back and front.
 
The two deck beams to which the bulkheads are glued to were added. I had to modify the aft screen deck beam (beam m) slightly to make it fit.
 
The fore and aft bulkheads were straightened when fitted as the two bottom tabs and clamping to the upper deck beam sorted the curling issue. The screen bulkhead is still curled however, and probably needs a couple of thin planks fixed to each end to cure the curl. The Cabin Bulkhead Infill Patterns are still be to be fitted.
 
I added a 6mm dowel to check the mizzen mast could be fitted.

 
I also checked the Mizzen Mast Base fitting noting the elongated hole needs to run from bow to stern as can be seen in the next photo.

 
The curling of the screen bulkhead can be seen clearly in the photo below. I could probably fettle it with some support strips, but I'm not sure if it is worth the effort given this is a prototype build and most of this area is covered by the upper deck. One of the forward window frames seems to have come loose (2nd one on right hand side) so will need to be moved back.

 

Try here Matt.
 
And here.
 
 

Hello everyone, what has happened in the last few days, well, I provided the doors with liquid glass and continued with the interior decoration.  Sheets and pillows sewn as well as 5 sacks, 11 barrels made as good as possible.  Unfortunately, I don't own a lathe or turning machine, so a mandrel and the drill had to do its humble job, I'm not yet satisfied with the result.  Fittings (barrel rings) as well as frames and lids still have to be made.  I wish everyone a nice evening.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hello everyone!
One thing I really hate in kit building is making thimbles from photoetched brass (you know which manufacturer I'm talking about :). I have never been able to make a good one, the halves never stick together and it is impossible to blacken afterwards. Now nobody has to deal with this nightmare anymore as we have several sizes of high quality machined thimbles for sale (the pictures are clickable and link to the store page)
 
 

 
 
 

Post Thirty-one
A backward step
Having fitted the port linings I added a further coat of paint prior to fitting  the pre formed planking strip patterns which effectively take the planking down to the bottom of the Gunport pattern.
These look good and do save a lot of fine cutting around gunports.
However, trial fitting of the planking patterns raised doubts in my mind about the linings.

0964
I  originally fitted port linings in advance of fitting the outer planking patterns in an effort to avoid getting paint on the pattern edges.
They would in normal practice be fitted once the outer planking had been completed.

0961
I have at this point soaked the bow patterns and clamped overnight.

0965(2)
With the patterns applied I’m unhappy with the look. I think they should really meet the inner line of the outer patterns rather than of the  gunport pattern, so off they must come.

0974(2)
The sad detritus litters the deck.

0969
That’s two days of my life I’ll not get back, a penalty of kit fiddling. Hey ho.
 
B.E.
29/10/21

Opening gunports and Char Removal:

 

 
Admiral isnt too happy about this task, amount of mess this generates, phuh.
 
Next up:
Port Gallery changes and "Gallery Drop"
 
Still waiting for Blackening solution and Acetone.
 
On a side Note, Amati did decide to send my order to Germany (i have placed an order on their website giving my Parents shipping address in Poland but then i sent them an E-Mail asking them to send this to Germany citing the EU Anti-Geoblocking and anti-cartell regulations...) - i think i will describe this in another Topic as i have very strong feelings about this situation...
 
 

Jacek,
I'm building the Sphinx kit too, but not posting a Build Log per se. I do have photos and notes in the Kit Review Thread and I'll be posting additional photos as I move along on my build.
 
You mentioned seeing some different treatments to the decorations for this model.
 
These photos show my alternative treatment to some of the decorative pieces in this kit. The resin cast piece at the stern spoke to me: "GIve me lots of interesting colors!" The headworks/stem P/E pieces are painted with a base coat of ochre and then given a wash (the same Citadel Seraphim color per previous post here) to darken the nooks n' crannies. Acrylic paint, both. This treatment is to specifically simulate "carved wood," not the trompe l'oeil (fools-the-eye) embellished style of ornate painting. I considered doing this with a paper appliqué, but decided that at 1:64 scale, my hand couldn't do this approach justice. The very small upper foc'sle bulwark decorations have small touches of a deeper golden bronze color that help to make these more interesting to look at.
 
Since I posted the stern photo here I have removed the two upper counter decorations (on either side of the "badge") and refinished the black. These were too much to my eye, OTT, particularly after painting the upper fascia the way I envisioned it. My model (built as sister ship HMS Camilla) will have her name on the piece of .o2 thin pear that is now shown blank. I haven't decided on the color yet, but it will likely be the same blue hue I've used with creme or white lettering.
 
Part of the fun with Vanguard's excellent kits is the many things one can do to "customize" - personalize their model.
 
Hope these stimulate some additional ideas!
Ron
 

Just before I read your post I had been fitting my interpretation of the frieze decoration to my model of H.M.S Sphinx.
 
Reading from various sources about ship decoration during the Georgian period I was not convinced that a small 20 gun frigate would have had that much gold gilt work and the frieze was more likely to have been painted in yellow or ochre paint if indeed it was decorated at all.
As I wanted to include all the exquisite etched brass pattern that Chris W. has provided I decided to use a white primer followed by a coat of light yellow acrylic colour by Vallejo. When dry this was then coated in Humbrol Clear gloss varnish. The detail on the etch is then highlighted with a wash of Seraphim Sepia from the Citadel range of washes called "Shades".
 
The photo shows the fitting of the first row of decoration on my model and I am very happy with the result. Over the next couple of days I will apply the the rest of the decoration.
 
I hope this gives you some idea of the possible alternatives.
 
Chris

 

Wow. Looks like a great kit.