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Everything posted by Jonesey

  1. Personally I think you'd be better off planking the deck yourself Colour one long edge and one short edge of each plank with a black felt tip (one that doesn't run!) to simulate the calking before applying glue
  2. Looking good David! Patience is definitely the key
  3. Yes, regarding that Elmers link on Amazon UK, it says "product currently unavailable" which is a shame
  4. Your build looks absolutely fine so far, well done I'm delaying the option to fit copper tiles until I see how the first layer of planking turns out. I'm more or less at the same point as you on my Corel build but the really challenging parts are up next - lower hull/stern/bow I'd post some pictures but I'm currently soaking up the sun in Gran Canaria 😎
  5. Had a bit of an accident tonight. I snapped off the top of one of the bulkheads 😕 After sanding the edges down there was a gap of about 2 mm which meant the piece I intended to glue back on was 2mm lower than it should be, so I had to make a small filler to raise it back up If it all sticks ok, it shouldn't be a problem as the top deck isn't glued down yet and the offending piece will be hidden on the outside by the hull planking and on the inside, it's covered by the top deck Set me back by another evening though.
  6. Thanks for the pictures mate, just what I was after
  7. Looking good mate. Next time you take some photos, could you do a couple looking at the stern? I'm curious as to how it all fits together back there
  8. Hi DA Regarding your plan to glue whilst the wood is still wet - don't forget the wood can/will shrink when drying and the last thing you want is for unsightly gaps to open up on your hull Best to dry fit and shape whilst wet, let dry, then glue.
  9. Had a break from stern fillers today and did some other stuff Finished installing the gun port backings and painted them black. Cut, shaped and dry fitted the deck beams part 28 Tested the fit of one blank without bending, just to get a feel for how much bending is required All in all, I thoroughly enjoyed today's efforts The lower deck I've attempted to age it. I applied some walnut stain (which comes out black) then scraped it back to reveal the original surface. The walnut has really penetrated into the deck but looking it closely, it's left some lovely black lines in the grain after scraping I'm not worried about some of the blacker areas towards the front & rear of the deck as these areas will be hidden by the main deck
  10. Of course I don't mind. Great to have you on board my friend Just as I'm following your build
  11. Plenty of dry fitting to come! Thank you Sea Hoss (great name & avatar)
  12. Nice insight Phil. I did manage to look at a couple of pictures from Challenger's build and they show about 80% of what I'd like to see, but I think a germ of a plan is forming inside my less than stellar mind - so I'll let it runs it's course and see what it comes up with Thank you
  13. Thank you Vane for your kind words of encouragement I must admit it's a bit disheartening to ask questions which seem to be ignored by members of the community All I'm really trying to avoid is making mistakes but with some of these issues I seem to be literally making it up as I go along with little or no guidance I will keep on muddling through as best I can
  14. I'm so glad I found this thread. I'm having the same problem with the stern fillers as Rob was having way back on page 1 Beautiful build by the way. Looking forward to planking now and hopefully getting the hull finished
  15. Which brings us to my issue. Looking at the plans, plates E & F show the placing of the stern fillers I'm concerned about how these actually get shaped into place Looking at the diagram in E, you can see the original piece supplied by Corel mounted on the frame. The piece shown on the right of the figure shows a dotted line which is meant to be carved out. So far so good Now compare it to the diagram labelled F looking vertically down, the piece is shaped with a nice curve where it attaches to frame 14 But in E, it's shown as a straight cut which doesn't make sense. Likewise, the taper of the bottom of the piece in F again shows a curve, but in E there appear to be more material left than is carved out in F Totally confused by this. I don't want to remove too much material as correcting this afterwards would be a major pain and I want to try and get this right. so, any ideas dear people?
  16. Hi all It's been a while since I last posted so a quick update followed by my current problem. Work has been slow just having evenings & weekends to work in the shipyard, but I've done the lower deck planking, fitted the bow filler pieces, installed the gun port backing on the starboard side and have started work on the stern fillers
  17. So if you're double planking, presumably you would need to cut away enough material from the keel to accommodate both layers yes?
  18. I do like your hatches, racks & ladders! Did you have to craft the ladders or are there pre-built parts I haven't cone across yet?
  19. Are you intending to use the supplied gun ports/hatches or you going to make your own?
  20. She's a real beauty. I recently started again on my Corel 1:98 Victory but I'm nowhere near as far advanced as you are - haven't even started on the hull planking yet. Your work is an inspiration!
  21. I see what you mean about the supplied rope, it just doesn't fall naturally like a real rope would. Apart from that your cannons look really good
  22. I certainly will mate It was so hot in Portsmouth last Saturday (for England!) I couldn't stay below decks for too long it was just stifling - God knows what it would have been like in the heat of battle with cannons blazing Have you taken a look at any of those moulded bits yet? They're tricky buggers to remove from the backing card and even trickier cleaning them up And there are loads of them 😂
  23. Yes, treated myself to a trip to Portsmouth last Saturday. In "the flesh" she is absolutely awesome!

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