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Julie Mo
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Julie Mo got a reaction from Omega1234 in Adding Weight to the Keel of a non-RC Model
This is what I was thinking, Bill.
I really don't want to permanently secure the model to a stand. I think I will be wanting to pick it up on occasion. And I think being able to take it off the stand will help in dusting it off. There is no glass enclosure in my crystal ball.
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Julie Mo got a reaction from mtaylor in Adding Weight to the Keel of a non-RC Model
This is what I was thinking, Bill.
I really don't want to permanently secure the model to a stand. I think I will be wanting to pick it up on occasion. And I think being able to take it off the stand will help in dusting it off. There is no glass enclosure in my crystal ball.
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Julie Mo reacted to jud in Adding Weight to the Keel of a non-RC Model
Even secured in a solid mount, lowering the center of gravity is always a good plan, never know when that might save Her from being tipped over and falling to the floor.
jud
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Julie Mo reacted to reklein in Adding Weight to the Keel of a non-RC Model
Try pouring some shot into the hull till it feels right. Then solidify it by pouring in some epoxy.
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Julie Mo reacted to Patrick Matthews in Adding Weight to the Keel of a non-RC Model
Will anyone be picking up the model? Or will it be firmly, permanently, and safely mounted on pedestals?
If pedestals are in the model's future, spend some time on internal structure to accept the mountings... and lose little sleep on the weight.
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Julie Mo got a reaction from Omega1234 in Adding Weight to the Keel of a non-RC Model
When I pick up the hull of my model it just feels too light. When I imagine it being complete, it would seem correct that anyone picking up the model (like me) would need to feel weight in the keel.
I am about to glue on the deck and I am having a hard time proceeding without putting some weight in the keel area. Just something that would add weight in the bilge/keel area.
Has anyone ever done this? If so, what did you use and did it meet your expectations?
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Julie Mo got a reaction from mtaylor in Adding Weight to the Keel of a non-RC Model
When I pick up the hull of my model it just feels too light. When I imagine it being complete, it would seem correct that anyone picking up the model (like me) would need to feel weight in the keel.
I am about to glue on the deck and I am having a hard time proceeding without putting some weight in the keel area. Just something that would add weight in the bilge/keel area.
Has anyone ever done this? If so, what did you use and did it meet your expectations?
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Julie Mo got a reaction from Retired guy in Endeavour 1934 by Julie Mo - Amati - Scale 1:35 - America's Cup UK J-Class Challenger
I got all the mahogany strips for the keel glued in place and smoothed. It turned out okay.
Then came the lacquer, mostly to protect the bare wood from contaminants.
I took the hull outside to spray the lacquer. With the house closed up, the lacquer smell permeates every room, even with the shop door closed. So the hull got a little sun today.
After I get the deck glued down, I'll trim the planks flush.
On a sad note, when I was gluing the keel strips in place, I used rubber bands around the hull. At one point I placed the stern on the floor to put some rubber bands on at the bow. The bow was leaning on my knee with the keep in the air. The weight of the keel spun it around and I heard a sickening CRUNCH! I looked at the stern and about half of the planks on the transom broke off below the rail line. Two steps forward, one step back...
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Julie Mo got a reaction from PeteB in Endeavour 1934 by Julie Mo - Amati - Scale 1:35 - America's Cup UK J-Class Challenger
I got all the mahogany strips for the keel glued in place and smoothed. It turned out okay.
Then came the lacquer, mostly to protect the bare wood from contaminants.
I took the hull outside to spray the lacquer. With the house closed up, the lacquer smell permeates every room, even with the shop door closed. So the hull got a little sun today.
After I get the deck glued down, I'll trim the planks flush.
On a sad note, when I was gluing the keel strips in place, I used rubber bands around the hull. At one point I placed the stern on the floor to put some rubber bands on at the bow. The bow was leaning on my knee with the keep in the air. The weight of the keel spun it around and I heard a sickening CRUNCH! I looked at the stern and about half of the planks on the transom broke off below the rail line. Two steps forward, one step back...
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Julie Mo got a reaction from Retired guy in Endeavour 1934 by Julie Mo - Amati - Scale 1:35 - America's Cup UK J-Class Challenger
Here's the damage:
There's a little crack that was washed out when I took the picture. It's just above the bitter end of the transom planks that are broken off. So they all had to be removed.
When I started removing the top planking, it took some of the sub planking with it.
On the transom there was an extra sub planking laid in so I pared it smooth with a chisel and cleaned up the edges. I could have used some mini chisels for this operation.
I couldn't get the last two planks to stay so I had to remove them for later installation. They are in place now so I'm waiting for the glue to set.
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Julie Mo got a reaction from PeteB in Endeavour 1934 by Julie Mo - Amati - Scale 1:35 - America's Cup UK J-Class Challenger
Here's the damage:
There's a little crack that was washed out when I took the picture. It's just above the bitter end of the transom planks that are broken off. So they all had to be removed.
When I started removing the top planking, it took some of the sub planking with it.
On the transom there was an extra sub planking laid in so I pared it smooth with a chisel and cleaned up the edges. I could have used some mini chisels for this operation.
I couldn't get the last two planks to stay so I had to remove them for later installation. They are in place now so I'm waiting for the glue to set.
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Julie Mo got a reaction from Salty Sea Dog in Endeavour 1934 by Julie Mo - Amati - Scale 1:35 - America's Cup UK J-Class Challenger
Here's the damage:
There's a little crack that was washed out when I took the picture. It's just above the bitter end of the transom planks that are broken off. So they all had to be removed.
When I started removing the top planking, it took some of the sub planking with it.
On the transom there was an extra sub planking laid in so I pared it smooth with a chisel and cleaned up the edges. I could have used some mini chisels for this operation.
I couldn't get the last two planks to stay so I had to remove them for later installation. They are in place now so I'm waiting for the glue to set.
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Julie Mo got a reaction from Salty Sea Dog in Endeavour 1934 by Julie Mo - Amati - Scale 1:35 - America's Cup UK J-Class Challenger
Thanks guys! Always nice to hear compliments from the pros. That means a lot to me.
Sam, yes, I should be able to repair it. I just have to remove the old planking from the transom and replace it. The only hurdle working on the transom is getting some sort of clamping or banding that won't pop off. I don't remember how I did it the first time but I'm sure I'll figure something out.
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Julie Mo got a reaction from md1400cs in Endeavour 1934 by Julie Mo - Amati - Scale 1:35 - America's Cup UK J-Class Challenger
I got all the mahogany strips for the keel glued in place and smoothed. It turned out okay.
Then came the lacquer, mostly to protect the bare wood from contaminants.
I took the hull outside to spray the lacquer. With the house closed up, the lacquer smell permeates every room, even with the shop door closed. So the hull got a little sun today.
After I get the deck glued down, I'll trim the planks flush.
On a sad note, when I was gluing the keel strips in place, I used rubber bands around the hull. At one point I placed the stern on the floor to put some rubber bands on at the bow. The bow was leaning on my knee with the keep in the air. The weight of the keel spun it around and I heard a sickening CRUNCH! I looked at the stern and about half of the planks on the transom broke off below the rail line. Two steps forward, one step back...
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Julie Mo got a reaction from Salty Sea Dog in Endeavour 1934 by Julie Mo - Amati - Scale 1:35 - America's Cup UK J-Class Challenger
Yes, Richard, I will be using nitrocelluose lacquer. In fact I did a light spray on one side of the hull today. It's primarily to protect the mahogany planks from oils and other contaminants until I'm ready to do a final spray.
Hi Bill,
I've been using CA glue sparingly because it can be such a mess, though I haven't tried the CA/PVA trick. With those thin strips I glued to the keel, that would have indeed been a trick. Sometimes I wish I could shrink myself because working with these tiny parts is VERY challenging!
What I most like CA for is filling in those tiny areas too small to use wood slivers. I take some sawdust from the same wood and fill in the gaps. Then I dab CA on it. After it's cured, I sand it smooth. It's great if you aren't planning on using stain or dye but sometimes the CA-sawdust composite can be darker than natural wood after a clear finish.
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Julie Mo got a reaction from KeithAug in Endeavour 1934 by Julie Mo - Amati - Scale 1:35 - America's Cup UK J-Class Challenger
I got all the mahogany strips for the keel glued in place and smoothed. It turned out okay.
Then came the lacquer, mostly to protect the bare wood from contaminants.
I took the hull outside to spray the lacquer. With the house closed up, the lacquer smell permeates every room, even with the shop door closed. So the hull got a little sun today.
After I get the deck glued down, I'll trim the planks flush.
On a sad note, when I was gluing the keel strips in place, I used rubber bands around the hull. At one point I placed the stern on the floor to put some rubber bands on at the bow. The bow was leaning on my knee with the keep in the air. The weight of the keel spun it around and I heard a sickening CRUNCH! I looked at the stern and about half of the planks on the transom broke off below the rail line. Two steps forward, one step back...
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Julie Mo got a reaction from tadheus in Endeavour 1934 by Julie Mo - Amati - Scale 1:35 - America's Cup UK J-Class Challenger
I got all the mahogany strips for the keel glued in place and smoothed. It turned out okay.
Then came the lacquer, mostly to protect the bare wood from contaminants.
I took the hull outside to spray the lacquer. With the house closed up, the lacquer smell permeates every room, even with the shop door closed. So the hull got a little sun today.
After I get the deck glued down, I'll trim the planks flush.
On a sad note, when I was gluing the keel strips in place, I used rubber bands around the hull. At one point I placed the stern on the floor to put some rubber bands on at the bow. The bow was leaning on my knee with the keep in the air. The weight of the keel spun it around and I heard a sickening CRUNCH! I looked at the stern and about half of the planks on the transom broke off below the rail line. Two steps forward, one step back...
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Julie Mo reacted to cog in Endeavour 1934 by Julie Mo - Amati - Scale 1:35 - America's Cup UK J-Class Challenger
You could make a mold to keep her from moving around, and have notches to attach rubber bands to ... or ridges for clamps (i.e. on the mold )
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Julie Mo reacted to RichardG in Endeavour 1934 by Julie Mo - Amati - Scale 1:35 - America's Cup UK J-Class Challenger
Sorry to hear about the backward step.
The two steps forward are really good though.
It's been nice to see you back and working on this.
Richard.
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Julie Mo got a reaction from DaveRow in Endeavour 1934 by Julie Mo - Amati - Scale 1:35 - America's Cup UK J-Class Challenger
I got all the mahogany strips for the keel glued in place and smoothed. It turned out okay.
Then came the lacquer, mostly to protect the bare wood from contaminants.
I took the hull outside to spray the lacquer. With the house closed up, the lacquer smell permeates every room, even with the shop door closed. So the hull got a little sun today.
After I get the deck glued down, I'll trim the planks flush.
On a sad note, when I was gluing the keel strips in place, I used rubber bands around the hull. At one point I placed the stern on the floor to put some rubber bands on at the bow. The bow was leaning on my knee with the keep in the air. The weight of the keel spun it around and I heard a sickening CRUNCH! I looked at the stern and about half of the planks on the transom broke off below the rail line. Two steps forward, one step back...
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Julie Mo got a reaction from zoly99sask in Endeavour 1934 by Julie Mo - Amati - Scale 1:35 - America's Cup UK J-Class Challenger
I got all the mahogany strips for the keel glued in place and smoothed. It turned out okay.
Then came the lacquer, mostly to protect the bare wood from contaminants.
I took the hull outside to spray the lacquer. With the house closed up, the lacquer smell permeates every room, even with the shop door closed. So the hull got a little sun today.
After I get the deck glued down, I'll trim the planks flush.
On a sad note, when I was gluing the keel strips in place, I used rubber bands around the hull. At one point I placed the stern on the floor to put some rubber bands on at the bow. The bow was leaning on my knee with the keep in the air. The weight of the keel spun it around and I heard a sickening CRUNCH! I looked at the stern and about half of the planks on the transom broke off below the rail line. Two steps forward, one step back...
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Julie Mo reacted to src in Enterprise by src - Constructo - 1:51 - or Lessons in Adapt Improvise and Overcome
Almost done with the Starboard ratlines. I still have to fill a few areas in. I would have more to show for the last two weeks but I surprised Better Half with a trip to Maui for putting up with my work shenanigans over the last 8 months or so.
Edit: Just for Carl, a new backdrop:
Starboard ratlines
Our view from the balcony
We woke up to this view every morning.
Ok Then, Back to modeling!
Sam
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Julie Mo reacted to src in Enterprise by src - Constructo - 1:51 - or Lessons in Adapt Improvise and Overcome
Epsom salt showers Carl? I suppose you could fill a big bucket up with hot water and Epsom salts then pour it over your head. Not sure it will impart the intended effect though. Perhaps we could stretch you on a rack? Hope your feeling better.
So far I have rattled the Port side and I am now on to the starboard side. I have not trimmed the Port lines yet, leaving myself some adjustment after I get more experience I may want to go back and do some additional work. Over all I am pleased with what I have done although that perfectionist part of me wants all the lines to have a consistent swag. They vary a bit, not the end of the world but my eye is drawn to things like that.
I am actually enjoying the experience so far, lets see how I feel after another couple of weeks. Fortunately I only have two small masts with 4 shrouds each to do, I suspect if there were more shrouds I might feel different.
Ok then, enough rambling, PICTURES!!
I need to find a better back drop than TFFM, they are great books but a little distracting for a backdrop. My beige walls however just swallow up the ratlines.
Sam
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Julie Mo reacted to src in Enterprise by src - Constructo - 1:51 - or Lessons in Adapt Improvise and Overcome
Your back must still be bothering you then Carl.
And so it begins, my first ratlines are on. 2.5 hours to get tp this point! Need some adjustment still, they are not secured yet, I want to get some practice first. The macro shots really show the variations I have.
Not sure if I am going to try to fix the middle lanyard or not it means replacing the entire lanyard and the difference in the length of the seizing (frapping?) isnt as noticeable from a regular viewing distance.
Onward!!
Sam
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Julie Mo reacted to src in Enterprise by src - Constructo - 1:51 - or Lessons in Adapt Improvise and Overcome
Lower Rats are done, on to the stays.
First challenge of the morning was how to make a mouse? My lath wont grip a piece of dowel smaller than 1/2" and I needed something on the order of .165 -.170". I chucked up a piece of dowel in my hand drill and started grinding away with a small rasp. I finished up with sand paper and needle files. The next head scratcher was how to get a .060 hole centered all the way through. Never did solve that one, I am close but off by a couple thousandths, I can live with it. I bit-O-paint and I was ready to go.
Now a question, as I have mentioned several times I am using Chucks Syren instructions as well as TFFM for my rigging. They are at odds as to where to belay(?) the Main Stay. Chuck has the stay going down to the Foremast and (lashed, reeved, belayed??) to hearts. TFFM has the Stay passing by the Starboard side of the Fore Mast and anchoring to the Head. Any thoughts as to which would be more common here? I can certainly do either and be fine with it, like usual though I am interested in information for the future.
Pictures below, I have been too lazy to clean my bench lately so I have cropped the junk out, no full hull pictures today.
Oh! An additional question, is the stay run properly around the head?
Thanks
Sam
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