Dubz

Yes, I will try to keep the updating of progress on both of the projects .
Daniel

Both are fantastic Daniel but as you might guess the Trinnidad is my favourite     .I am glad you have carried over the upper jig design from The Nuestra Senora  .I hope you will keep updating us of progress,if only so I can carry on drooling like Ulises  
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

The scale of Santisima Trinidad is 1/72. The box on the top is originally reinforcement of the hull during building but Nigel Brook notify me on this forum that it would be also great for putting it upside down as you wrote so in production version I will make it little higher for this purpose
 
Daniel

Chapter thirteen started off easy enough by making the two raised deck sections at the fore and main masts. I just added some small strips to finish off the edges.  I’ll enlarge the mast holes later.
 

 
 
Then I moved onto the main fife rail.  You know, Chuck seems like a really nice guy but then he goes and tells you to take these flimsy, 1/32” thick laser cut pieces of basswood, with holes in them no less, and round off their edges!!!  Well all I can say is thank God for scotch.  Maybe I just didn’t have a good method for doing this but these pieces are a true test of your patience.  I walked away from these parts three or four times after breaking and gluing them back together the same amount of times.  For those that are working on this model take your time and use very soft hands as you work on these parts.  I finally finished both rail pieces and glued them together. They’re not the best but I ran out of scotch, only kidding, I have plenty.
 
For the legs I chucked a 1/16” dowel into my drill press and turned them to resemble the draw as close as possible.  After cutting them to length I inserted pins into each end to help secure them in place.  The parts were then stained and assembled.  Belaying pins were added prior to mounting on the model.
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 121 – Coach
 
The coach was really just a vestibule at the break of the poop to provide access from the main deck to the entrance of the “mezzanine” level cabin deck below.  It is an interesting and intricate structure.  Its forward end is just large enough to fit an entrance door on each side and that part is supported on a coaming on the main deck.  The aft part merely provides headroom above the main deck level over the head of the staircase that leads down to the cabins.  At the break of the poop is a double-door entrance to the head of the cabin deck staircase.  As mentioned before, the design of all this interior work is speculative.
 
The first step was to make and fit the starboard side panel on the coamings on both decks and to the bulkhead at the break of the poop.  In the first picture that wall has been built up of planks in the usual way and then cut to fit.  In the picture the forward corner post is being glued on.
 

 
In the next picture the studs on the inside of the wall have been installed and the door opening cut out flush with those members using the circular saw for most of the cut length.
 

 
A panel for the entrance door was then cut and fitted to reinforce this very fragile structure and provide a base for the door paneling.  In the next picture the panel is being glued in.
 

 
The outer door jambs and header are being added in the next picture.
 

 
In the next picture the door has been paneled inside and out and the wall installed on the coamings.
 

 
I made the doorway into the cabin itself a bit more ornate, using the same wood and trim style used in the cabins as shown in the next picture.
 

 
In this picture the double doors have been fitted with simple brass hardware.  As with the cabin woodwork, I used black walnut for the doorway.  In the next picture the finished forward bulkhead is in place and aft bulkhead is being glued in.
 

 
The wall on the port side consists only of the stud framing – to provide some visibility to the interior.  In the next picture that framing has been installed and other work is in progress.
 

 
In the picture the overhead rafters have been installed as well as the structure and panels on either side of the doorway.  The exterior end trim pieces are being glued on in the picture.  The last picture shows the freshly painted roof on the finished coach.
 

 
This picture also shows a new entryway on the port bulwark and some modifications that I will explain in the next part.
 
Ed

Hello All,
As I promised here are some photos of the prepared kits Santisima Trinidad (after aplication of filler and sanding first planking) and Dutch Statenyacht. The Santisima Trinidad is my biggest project, length of only hull is almost 90cm. In these kits will be all planks of first planking cutted by laser for easier build.
best regards
Daniel Dusek

Update
 
 
parts (some) of the decoration for bow and stern..... (first trial...)
 
Nils
 

 
up and in the centre of the golden decoration at stern is the badge with the "Kaiser.Eagle". This is printed in appr. scale on Photopaper, and the badge baseplate is cut out with a hole-punch  tool. Because of the rubber plate under the soft anealed  brass stockplate the edges become that rounded badge character
 
 

 
a small drop of semi-thickened-viscosity CA mounts the emblem to the badge base, so it looks like a small button
 
 

 
the upper bow decoration gets the mini-badges with the state Bremen`s "Himmelsschlüssel" (sky key), which the NDL line showed on their liners. The metal antique bronze decor base parts  will be goldened as well
 
 

 
the little blue "sky key" badges are made in the same way, but smaller in diameter
 
 
 
 

a few shots of the interior work, showing marquetry flooring in great cabin

further progress January 2015

some carving work

I then paused to take on my biggest challenge, which was to carve the figurehead.  I estimate that it took me a total of about 70 hours to complete the four major pieces of the group.

Hello there......
I'm back     
 
After a long period of doing a lot of stuff that has nothing to do with modelbuilding I will try to go further where I left a few moths ago.
Moved to another city but in the same country I have my own workshop again .
I found out one thing......don't move the model !!!!!!!!
I did that and a few repairs where in order.
As you can see I have not done all the repairs on the ropes at the gun port lids.
All the ropes are not straight anymore !
I have to change that.
But I want to show you that I'm still do something.
And I have only done the starboard side, so a small repair ( I hope ).
 
Sjors
 

Gun and sweep ports:
Wow, what a job! It seems an eternity of measuring, fairing, cutting, gluing and sanding the gun and sweep ports. But, they are finally done, together with the sheave frames (two each, port and starboard). The eight pics, below, memorialize the effort.
 
#1.  I pinned a batten on the starboard side of the hull to get a good run for the gun port sills. I guess fairing was OK up to now because the run was smooth with no dips or twists and was pretty close to the laser guide marks on the bulwarks. 
 
#2.  The sills were cut and glued on the starboard side. Seems like this should have been a simple step, but I cut the sills too short too often and then recut them a bit longer and sanded them to a comfortable length so they didn't push the bulwarks our of square. I then sanded the sills inboard and outboard.
 
#3.  I added the sills to the port side then sanded the them inboard and outboard. I kept in mind Chuck's warning to maintain a smooth curve and fair the work as you go. I then measured, cut and glued the lintels, port and starboard, measuring 15/32"up from the top of each sill. Because the sills had a decent run, the lintels came out OK. The lintels were then sanded inboard and outboard, watching that the bulwark extensions at the cap rail didn't get too thin, and trying to maintain the contours of the bulwark extensions along the length of the lintels.
 
#4.  Then things got a bit dicier. I clamped the port template that Chuck was kind enough to send and saw that the bulkheads were nearly spot on. However the starboard template indicated that the bulwarks were out of square. (For all of the effort I put into squaring the bulkheads to the bulkhead former, I could have done better. I think that the error occurred at the filler-block stage. I measured the thickness of the fillers between each bulkhead on the port and starboard side of the bulkhead, keeping those measurements constant. Instead, I should have measured the distance between each bulkhead, port and starboard, from a consistent place, for example from the tip of the stern at the center of the bulkhead former. I must have made a measurement error in one of the first filler blocks on the starboard side and simply repeated that error as I completed the filler blocks on that side. With this error, the vertical gun-port frames on the starboard side would be way off measurement.
 
However, I took great solace in Chuck's repeated message that adjustments to the vertical frames were easily made. So, onward and upward. . .
 
#5.  I marked the vertical frames on the port-side sills (the accurate side) where the template indicated they should be placed. The vertical pieces were measured, cut and glued, making sure that the vertical frames were 15/32" apart, top and bottom. This is where the adjustment comes in. I ignored the starboard template. Instead, I pinned a long piece of dental floss (it doesn't stretch) to the center of the tip of the stem. (You can just see the floss at the bow.) I then used the floss to measure the distance from the pin to each port-side vertical frame. I then swung the floss to the starboard side and marked the same place where the port-side vertical frame was placed. Hopefully, the port and starboard gun-port frames will now be exactly opposite one another. 
 
#6.  The template (with the sills and lintels cut away) was re-clamped to the port side (the accurate side). The placement of the vertical sweep port frames was marked on the sills and the horizontal sweep port frames were added, port and starboard, 1/8" above the sills. The horizontal frames were then sanded inboard and outboard. I paid close attention to keeping the contour of the bulwark extensions along the entire length of the horizontal sweep-port frames.
 
#7.  I measured, cut and glued the vertical sweep-port frames on the port side where marked. (I used a small piece of 1/8" x 1/8" strip as a tool to make sure that the sweep ports were square.) The vertical frames for the sweep ports were then added to the starboard side using the same dental-floss measuring method to make sure that the sweep ports will be opposite one another, port and starboard. More sanding until the sweep port frames blended into the gun port framing. I then made framing for the four sheaves ( a la Dubz)--one each above bulkheads D and 4, port and starboard. (The sheave frames are just visible in pic #8.)
 
#8.  More sanding and fairing. The framing now feels smooth to the touch and looks good to the eye. I sure hope that it is up to snuff when planking begins.
 
 
On to the stern frame. . .
 








 
 
 
 

Shaped the pintles & gudgeons. out of a flat brass strip. Drilled holes for pinning to ship. Figured out a way around the soldering. Since the glue wasn't holding the pins on the pintles I made a much longer pin & inserted them up into the wood with CA glue. They are pinned in the notch in the rudder & come straight down laying against the pintles. It looks just like it was attached to the pintle & no one can tell that it goes past the pintle & up into the wood. I did add some CA where they touch in the bend of the pintle. This works well & is very sturdy.
 

Except for the two door handles that are missing, the Companion is done. They will go on when I get some wire with the right gauge thickness, 30 or smaller. I only have a 35mm lens so photos of these small objects are not really a good representation since I have to crop the image. This of course decreases sharpness. I can see where a macro lens might come in handy here. Anyway, you should be able to get the general idea of what it looks like.
 
Now it's back to the hull.
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 120 – Main Deck Cabin 2
 
Work on the deck cabin continued.  In the first picture the starboard side has been installed and the forward bulkhead is in the process.
 

 
All the bulkheads were made to fit into the rabbet on the coaming.  In the next picture, both end bulkheads are in place and the framing for the port side is being installed.
 

 
Pine strips with wedges were used along the floor to hold the studs against the coaming at the bottom.  The reinforcing pine batten is still pasted in place.  This side of the structure will be left open for visibility into the framing below.
 
In the next picture the pine batten has been removed and masking tape has been placed on the deck framing to prevent small pieces from dropping through.  These can now be very difficult to extract.  The first of the rounded up roof rafters are being fitted.
 

 
In the next picture these have been installed.  A number of them have been fitted with hanging knees to provide some wind bracing.  This structure had to be quite strong.
 

 
In the next picture the masking tape has been removed and the tops of the end bulkheads trimmed out in readiness for the roof planking.
 

 
The next picture shows the initial strake of 3” x 7” roof planking being aligned against a straightedge and pinned in place.
 

 
There is a strake with a water stop to be fitted outside of this one, but I wanted to paint that first and use the next inner strakes for alignment.  The next picture shows that outer strake being fitted against the two initially installed planks.
 

 
In the next picture the planking has progressed almost to the centerline.
 

 
The last picture shows the finished roof.
 

 
The ends of the planks have been sanded square and notches cut through the water stop for the two transverse skid beams that will cross the roof.  The roof has been coated with acrylic sanding sealer, sanded smooth and painted with the same color blue as the waterways.  The paint is acrylic.
 
The next task is to construct the coach – the entrance to the cabin deck.
 
Ed

Ok here we go.
 
When cutting a brass rod with a sharp knife a burr is created, I use this both to my advantage and at one point it needs to be removed (otherwise you'll have trouble inserting the bolt in the predrilled hole. Here are the steps involved:
 
1. This is the rod after the last bolt was cut
2. The burr is removed using a small steel ruler
3. A new diagonal burr is created to have the bolt firmly set in the predrilled hole ( I use bot 0,5 mm brass rod and a 0,5 mm steel drill to drill the holes, without the diagonal burr the fit is a bit loose)
4. Cutting off the bolt creates a burr this is the dome of the bolt
 

 
Tools needed (I won't cover the use of Liver of Sulphur which I use to blacken the bolts after they are in place):
 

 
Step 1 This is the rod after the last bolt was cut
 

 
Step 2 The burr is removed using a small steel ruler
 

 
Step 3 A new diagonal burr is created by rolling a sharp blade overt he rod to have the bolt firmly set in the predrilled hole
 

 

 
Step 4 Cutting off the bolt creates a burr this is the dome of the bolt
 

 

 

 
 
I use a brass rod with a small hole in the point to push the bolt into place leaving the dome of the bolt proud to the surface. When the are all done I treat them with liver of sulphur to blacken them.
 

 
The end result (it's hard to capture but each bolt has a nice subtle dome):
 

 

 
Remco
 

My wood order arrived and I was able to complete the bulwark planking. As Chuck has done, I did the spirketting in two layers. A nice easy method. After finishing the planking, I painted it, using my last bottle of Polly Scale ATSF red. Still a little left in the bottle.
 
I also did the skylight. I chose not to use Chuck's mini-kit for the skylight, but to build it from scratch, from the plans. This produced a slightly different skylight from the kit and Chuck's prototype. It was made from boxwood strip with clear plastic "glass". As previously indicated, I am leaving it unpainted.
 
Next, I will be moving back to the outer hull to do some of the detailing work there.
 
Bob
 
 

Then I tried to make some figurines of sailors in 1/72 scale. I hope I will be able to prepare some figurines for resin production, here are some pictures of virtual model and printed one, height of the figure is 25mm.

Hello All,
Last two weeks I tried to do some sculptures for the new kit-Dutch Statenyacht. I decide to try to learn work in 3D sculpting software-SCULPTRIS and then to print in on 3D printer. As I found the SCULPTRIS is superb software for that and it is free, here is the link: http://pixologic.com/sculptris/
On the lictures you can see the SCULPTRIS virtual model of fish sculpture and result from 3D printer.

Dirk, if you continue to build another couple of ship models before you turn back to your Syren I may perhaps be able to catch up with you 
 
Thomas

First I would like to thank everyone for all the 'likes' and for the kind words of encouragement, they're much appreciated.
 
Continuing with the aft deck fixtures I made the water pumps from some brass and copper tubing I had.  The pieces were soldered together and given a coat of paint.  It’s amazing what a couple of coats of black paint will cover up.  The parts were then assembled as described in the instructions.
 


 
The aft cannons were set in place and rigged pretty much the same as the carronades, just not as many.
 

 
The tiller was made as shown in the instructions and as I was thinking about how to attach the split rings to it I remembered that I had won a serving tool in a raffle at the Northeast Ship Model Conference last April.  So I tried my hand at serving some rope to lash the rings to the end of the tiller.  It took a few attempts but I finally got the hang of it.
 
 

 
Finally I rigged the ships steering mechanism.  My final configuration is a conglomeration (say that five times fast) of a number of layouts I studied on this forum.  I thought that the position (angle) of the line from the tiller to the bulwark would work more efficiently if it was more in line with the arc the tiller would travel in instead of being perpendicular to it.  To accomplish this instead of moving the eye bolts on the bulwarks farther aft which would have crowded the aft cannons, I made the tiller a little longer.  I also added two blocks at the base of the ship’s wheel to keep the line lower to the deck.  To give myself a little more room to install these blocks I decided to reposition the wheel to the outside of the support legs.  I’m not sure if this is historically correct but it made rigging the line easier and I thought it would give my helmsmen a little more room to steer.  I also had to remove the binnacle that was already installed because the spacing between the wheel, binnacle and companionway didn’t look right.  Before reinstalling the binnacle I decided to add a compass in it.
 
 

90% hidden? Yes, but you - and we - know that it's there! Lovely forelocked bolt and square nuts on that intake.

Sorry for the long wait, 'life' got in the way....
 
Dave, the wood will darken over time, I like the color of free boxwood too.
Greg, the thought crossed my mind :-)
 
The new pumpwell is installed and the next set of beams too. A bit tricky as they are curved in two ways. 
 

 

 

 
Remco

I finished the remaining 11 carronade barrels. I used Cladercraft’s 18 pdr barrels (image 1) which - as already mentioned several times in this forum - fit Chuck’s Syren carronade drawings very nicely. I modified them a little by reducing the elevation screw holder in size (image 2a, lower barrel original size, upper barrel reduced size), milled 2 slots for breech ring and gun sight pieces (images 2b and 2c), milled a flat area over the predrilled hole to mount a little brass cube with a pin as basis for the barrel hinge (image 1 and image 3a), and after silver soldering, drilling the hinge hole, and a “little clean-up” with a rotary tool and diamond burr ended up with the finished barrel (image 3b). Image 4 shows the 11 finished carronade barrels after blackening and coating them with Model Master’s Flat Lacquer overcoat.
 
Thomas
 

Image 1
 

Image 2
 

Image 3
 

Image 4