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dgbot

Gone, but not forgotten
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  1. Like
    dgbot reacted to Dan Vadas in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans   
    Cathead Supports
     
    These are quite tricky to make. They curve around between the Main Rails and the Upper Cheek, finishing at the start of the Eking Rail (which comes next).
     
    First I made a card template of the curve, and removed a section of the Sheer Rail and Waist Rail to accommodate them :
     

     
    To shape these I used a piece of over-thick stock into which I sanded the inner curve on the disc sander, finishing it off with a round sanding stick :
     

     

     
    After much dry fitting and adjusting a molding was scraped into the outer face and a scarf joint for the eking rail was cut in. Then I glued the supports in :
     

     

     
      Danny
  2. Like
    dgbot reacted to Dan Vadas in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans   
    False Rails
     
    These are decorative boards which sit on top of the Main Rails. They give a little privacy to the aft Seats of Ease. The central portion of these are carved down :
     

     
    Aft Seats of Ease
     
    I've also fitted the Aft Seats of Ease. These fit into the space between the false rail and the bow of the ship :
     

     

     
    Continued in next post .....
  3. Like
    dgbot reacted to rfolsom in Cutty Sark by rfolsom - Billing Boats   
    Bouncing around again;  I'm back to the cathead testing.  I found out sheaves could be done pretty easily by forming a ring of #24 steel wire, and inserting into the slots.  I also put the first coat of black paint on.  I'm not sure if the exact dimensions of everything is correct, so I haven't put anymore details on at the moment.  This is a test assembly, and although I'd like to use it on the actual ship, I'm not above remaking it when everything is finalized.
     
    Oh, and what looks better, white inner ends (of the catheads) (per current restoration)  or all black??  Was one scheme original?
     
    Cheers!
     
    ~Bob


  4. Like
    dgbot got a reaction from Dimitris71 in USS Maine by dgbot - HMV - 1/250 - CARD   
    The next piece of business was the roofs of the for and aft cabins.  Basically cut them out and put in the plugs for the holds.
    This was straight forward just keep a steady hand and a sharp knife.  The holds were put together by folding them and adding a piece of paper to the back to aid in the glue up.  Then everything was glued together






    David B
  5. Like
    dgbot reacted to Piet in Hr. Ms. O 19 1938 by Piet - FINISHED - scale 1:50 - submarine of the Royal Navy Netherlands in service 1939 - 1945   
    Hello all, today I completed the piping on the torpedo launcher unit, I think    At least I'm calling that part done.  
    I started with fabricating the door hinging mechanism and have to simplify it.  In order for me to make the slide shoe movement I would have to fabricate a flanged U channel for the shoe to slide in and also keep the shoe locked inside.  It's like a square tube with a slid cut in the top.  
    Oh I guess I could probably make something like it with the shoe having a foot that keeps it inside.  Even at this scale of 1:50 it's just too small to make it look authentic and is not worth my efforts with the great probability that I would have to discard many trial pieces and damaging the other stings close to the front end of the launcher.
     
    Sooooh, I'm making a hinged arm on both ends that are pinned to the door actuator arm and the piston rod.  I can't CAD a picture of it - - - but wait, let me make a quick sketch so yuns see what I plan to do.  First I though of making a fake shoe just to make it look close to what the original photo shows but thought better of it to just forego the fake stuff.  
     
    It'll be enough of a challenge to make the pivot arm pivot on the pins without soldering it all locked up tight.  I already started the pin for the doorarm, which is temporarily kept long till I have made the articulating rod.  I used a very small piece of 0.8 brass tube on the end of a brass rod and soldered them together.  This'll act as a head and had to file it down to about a fraction of a mm so it can clear the forward flange of the torpedo tube.
    I have bend one eye on one end of the articulating rod, waiting to see how long to make it before I can bend the other eye.
    Then the actuator piston rod, that'll just be a brass rod bend 90 degrees with an eye on the lower leg as my sketch shows.
     
    You can see the door hinge arm with pivot pin and the start of the articulating rod.  Right now I'm just experimenting with this and let yuns know and see how it came out.  Keep your fingers crossed and wish me luck 
     
    Well, here are the pics, the top one is with all the piping completed with the hinge pin and articulating arm next to it.  The other one is my sketch of the planned door actuating mechanism.
     

    All piping is now installed to the best of my ability including the cross-way pipes with their little gizmos and the two side gizmos that may be check valves.  You should be able to see the hinge pin on the door arm and the unfinished articulating rod laying in front of the launcher.
     

    With my explanatory dialog above this should be easy to follow.  Watch out, the ink is still wet so don't smudge it     I hope all y'all agree with my plan.
     
    Cheers,
  6. Like
    dgbot got a reaction from Dimitris71 in USS Maine by dgbot - HMV - 1/250 - CARD   
    The next part or front turrets I am not sure of the terminolgy were cut out and built up.  Once the part was dry I used a bamboo skewer to form the folds and bends.  This was then glued into place.  One of the things I was worried about was alignment so the assembly was not glued down yet.




    This might seem a little childish but I have already learned the hard way plus the warning from Brian C to be careful.  Down the road I am glad I did.
    David B
     
  7. Like
    dgbot got a reaction from riverboat in USS Maine by dgbot - HMV - 1/250 - CARD   
    The next piece of business was the roofs of the for and aft cabins.  Basically cut them out and put in the plugs for the holds.
    This was straight forward just keep a steady hand and a sharp knife.  The holds were put together by folding them and adding a piece of paper to the back to aid in the glue up.  Then everything was glued together






    David B
  8. Like
    dgbot reacted to dvm27 in HMS Kingfisher 1770 by Remcohe - 1/48 - English 14-Gun Sloop - POF   
    A wonderful story, Remco, but you will have to change one detail. Calico cats are overwhelmingly females except for the rare hermaphrodite (I've seen only a couple in 35 years of practice). I'd need a higher resolution photo to verify it though.
  9. Like
    dgbot reacted to Omega1234 in Ingomar by Omega1234 - FINISHED - 1/278 - Hereshoff designed schooner   
    Hi everyone! Well, the deck saga continues! I decided that my second attempt at building the deck, was ok, but, after putting so much effort into Ingomar's accommodation, I felt that it had too many planks and obstructed the view too much. So, I set about building a third deck. As you'll see from the photos of the three decks, the one in the foreground is the third attempt. It has fewer planks, thus leaving more of the deck exposed. I think It looks far better than the one before.
     
    I've also made a start on the most rearward accommodation, which was at the very stern of the ship where the rudder housing is. This was where six unfortunate crew members would have slept; in basic pipe cots! They could access this accommodation via a tiny deck hatch aft of the rudder post. What they must have given for the more luxirious berths I can only guess. Nonetheless, as you'll see from the photos, they don't look like much (literally like six tiny white rectangles to simulate the pipe berths), but I'll add pillows and some coloured blankets later on.
     
    There's also a couple of photos of the main table in the grand saloon, amidships. If I can, I'll try to put some books on it, just to make the saloon look more lived in.
     
    Lastly, you'll see that I've also started to paint the hull. I've sanded it with wet and dry sandpaper, and applied one thin coat. I'll continue to sand and paint until all the blemishes are filled.
     
    Anyhow, have a nice week, everyone!
     
    All the best.











  10. Like
    dgbot got a reaction from pete48 in KA-6 Australia II 1983 by pete48 - 3/16" = 1' - SMALL   
    I would love to get inside there someday.  I have heard there model collection is out of this world.
    David B
  11. Like
    dgbot got a reaction from riverboat in USS Maine by dgbot - HMV - 1/250 - CARD   
    The next part or front turrets I am not sure of the terminolgy were cut out and built up.  Once the part was dry I used a bamboo skewer to form the folds and bends.  This was then glued into place.  One of the things I was worried about was alignment so the assembly was not glued down yet.




    This might seem a little childish but I have already learned the hard way plus the warning from Brian C to be careful.  Down the road I am glad I did.
    David B
     
  12. Like
    dgbot got a reaction from Piet in Hr. Ms. O 19 1938 by Piet - FINISHED - scale 1:50 - submarine of the Royal Navy Netherlands in service 1939 - 1945   
    Great work and I hope you get better soon.
    David B
  13. Like
    dgbot got a reaction from Dimitris71 in USS Maine by dgbot - HMV - 1/250 - CARD   
    Before I finished the house I cut out the Aufbauwand hinten and started building it up.  The first part was the easiest just fold and attach to the wall.





     
    David B
  14. Like
    dgbot got a reaction from Captain Slog in USS Maine by dgbot - HMV - 1/250 - CARD   
    The next part or front turrets I am not sure of the terminolgy were cut out and built up.  Once the part was dry I used a bamboo skewer to form the folds and bends.  This was then glued into place.  One of the things I was worried about was alignment so the assembly was not glued down yet.




    This might seem a little childish but I have already learned the hard way plus the warning from Brian C to be careful.  Down the road I am glad I did.
    David B
     
  15. Like
    dgbot got a reaction from riverboat in USS Maine by dgbot - HMV - 1/250 - CARD   
    Before I finished the house I cut out the Aufbauwand hinten and started building it up.  The first part was the easiest just fold and attach to the wall.





     
    David B
  16. Like
    dgbot reacted to scott larkins in Rattlesnake by scott larkins - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64   
    With the eye bolts in hand it was time to continue the cannons.  Cannons are pretty easy to put together.  Like I said seveal pages ago when I did my first cannon to line up the cannon ports, you will have to put that piece at the back to make sure the cannon is level.   And you will have to be careful drilling the holes for the axles.  It would be easy to bust through the bottom of the carriage.
     

     

     

     
    These are the blocks that will be put at the back of the cannons that you see in the picture below.  I figured I'd get the blocks all tied up first before I attempt to put them on the cannons or the gunwales.  As I'm working on this model I am learning to think ahead and make things, well..... as easy on myself as I can.  There's no accounting for size issues though.  These old eyes just ain't what they used to be.
     

  17. Like
    dgbot reacted to scott larkins in Rattlesnake by scott larkins - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64   
    Well, I ran out of eye bolts.  Seems MS only sent me enough to do half of my ship.  So while I waited I did some other pieces.  Here is one of the two anchors.
     
    I found that the wood top piece (actually metal) center hole was too big for the anchor neck.  I was going to put them together using epoxy anyways, I just had to use a little bit more.
    It was helpful to use bees wax on the string.  Took a little of the fold out of it.  But for the big anchor rope I also had to put the string in a vice and hang some weights over night to help.  I'm pretty happy with how this came out.
     

  18. Like
    dgbot reacted to scott larkins in Rattlesnake by scott larkins - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64   
    And finally the toilets and finishing pieces.  Again, remember, you are going to be putting the bow sprit rope through the slots in the platform.
     

     
    Tried my best to make my piece as close as possible to the plans.  Yeah, my slots are wider but I did my best.  The final piece was cleaned up from what you see here.  I little fine cutting under a magnifying class helped.  LOL, kind of looks like the grill to an old WW II jeep.
     

     

     
    I was amazed that I got those toilets and plank to fit the first time in the small area.  I can't believe there is so many pieces of wood in such a small area.  Forward thinking was most critical in planning out the work of the bow.  I can't warn you enough, think ahead on this step.
     

     

  19. Like
    dgbot got a reaction from shipmodel in USS Maine by dgbot - HMV - 1/250 - CARD   
    Before I finished the house I cut out the Aufbauwand hinten and started building it up.  The first part was the easiest just fold and attach to the wall.





     
    David B
  20. Like
    dgbot reacted to FKarl in 1:426 USS Arizona   
    railings were more tedious than I thought. only did one side..... broke a few in the "sawing process" although it worked fairly well and is a technique I will use in the future I am sure.
    been working along pretty steadily and just about finished. I tried my hand at weathering (deck) and need more practice for sure.... overall I am pleased with my efforts though. Decals and "optional" rigging still to go... here are a couple progress photos. The railing got sanded as best as I could but I wish it had come out better.  
     
    one question. I was unable to find exactly how they retrieved the planes? I know with the crane... but exactly how did they "hook up"? I cant imagine they put anyone over the rail to use cables and hooks. Stymied.



  21. Like
    dgbot reacted to Dan Vadas in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans   
    .... continued.
     
    Once the head timbers were all installed I could fit the rest of the ledges. Note the parallelogram shape of the carlings for the fore Seats of Ease. Apart from the aft ones which fan out the ledges are all parallel, even if they don't look like it (camera angle) - they have a slight roundup to match the head beam :
     

     

     
    Saddle
     
    Another thing that could now be finished off was the Saddle at the fore end of the main rails. First I cut a piece out oversize and finessed the under side to fit over the rails. This was then glued in place before final shaping :
     

     

     
    The saddle after shaping :
     

     

     

     
      Danny
  22. Like
    dgbot reacted to Dan Vadas in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans   
    Thank you Druxey, Mark, Kevin, Brian, Geoff, Grant and Larry.
     
     
    I know I've had plenty of practice at building workshops over the last few years Geoff, but NO .
     
     
    It's not my screen going black that's the problem Larry. The actual Window shuts down and I have to click on it (anywhere) to re-open it so I can continue typing. For some reason it's working fine this morning - go figure. I'm still going to take the puta in for a cleanout later this week - I'm pretty sure I have some kind of annoying virus .
     
     
    Just for you Grant ..... .
     
    After marking the positions of the ledges on the head beam and knees I removed them and cut in the mortices :
     

     
    I then glued them back in permanently :
     

     
    Head Timbers
     
    Next up were some of the most difficult items to make in the whole ship - the Head Timbers. Getting the shape for these required a lot of measuring and card templates. Unfortunately I was without my camera for a while when I was building these, so I didn't get any pics of their actual shapes before I'd glued them in. Here are a couple of pics from above :
     

     

     
    And some from below. The head timbers have a molded covering board on their outer edges. The Lower Rail has also been fitted :
     

     

     
    Continued next post .....
  23. Like
    dgbot got a reaction from pete48 in KA-6 Australia II 1983 by pete48 - 3/16" = 1' - SMALL   
    And the winner of the cup!!!
    David B
  24. Like
    dgbot reacted to pete48 in KA-6 Australia II 1983 by pete48 - 3/16" = 1' - SMALL   
    Today, was the day to finish up KA-6  "The Boxing Kangaroo" , unfortunatly, I was unable to find any waterslide decal paper, ( I will have to order it online for future projects ) so I went thru my old drafting supplies and found some letraset rub-on letters , I had just enough to put the name on the transom in the small letters and had larger for the cradle , I started by painting the Green stripe on the Hull and then adding the letters that I did have . This will conclude this build log , I will still answer questions and reply to comment's . I want to Thank you all for following along , the comments and the Likes , I thouroghly enjoyed building her , It was alot of fun . Here are the final results 







  25. Like
    dgbot got a reaction from Dimitris71 in USS Maine by dgbot - HMV - 1/250 - CARD   
    The next piece I worked on was the Aufbauwand hinten.  In place of photo etched parts extra panels were added to give a 3d effect.  So the first thing I did was cutout these pieces and glued them to the main piece.





    Then came the fun part of gluing it to the deck.  This took some time.  Once more the old saying less is more came into play for the glue.  Just a light touch gave me all the tack I needed.  Plus no overage and weakening of the part.



    So far so good.
    David B
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