mikeaidanh

Hello Markus,
 
Sorry for the delay in replying to your question but I have been away in an area with little or no phone and broadband coverage. Bliss!
 
The dust extraction on my sanding rig is fairly good though not perfect. Lots of dust does get pulled passed the tool but not all of it. I have never used this set up on ply thicker than 12mm so the height problem does not exist. The possibility of limiting the amount of dust escaping was there so I took it. It may be worth adding a half shell at the back of the tool, also extracted, to catch the dust that spins off from the tool. Yes, I like that and I will add it.
 
Mike. 

Anthony, these are some sturdy looking sanding drums at a very reasonable price. Thanks for the link.
 
Mike, I am most curious about how good dust extraction through that box is. It looks very neat, but I'm a bit skeptical about its efficiency, especially when the piece to be sanded is taller than just a few millimeters I'm afraid that most of the dust will not make its way to the vacuum. I hope I'm wrong though. Please let us know.
 
Cheers,
Markus

A crevise tool attached to a shopvac - mounted on top of the table at the back will get pretty much all the the wood dust.  It is just noisy.  A useful mounting method is to remove the lamp shade from an inexpensive swing lamp and attach the crevise tool and some hose to the distant arm of the lamp swing mechanism.  You can put the end of the tool where you want it and get it out of the way easily. 
 
I got a series of sanding drums with a slit and core hole for friction clamping, that allowed for the use of sheet sandpaper on the drum.  Neither Peachtree nor WoodCraft seem to be vending them anymore.  Norton Premium sand paper seems to hold up much better than anything else I have tried.

Further to Antony's post. I have used various sizes of sander drums mounted as shown in the following image for shaping plywood sections
 

 
The various size drums are matched to their own table which is square to the drum axis. The tables can be easily removed and replaced. The base of the unit is attached to a vacuum dust extractor.
 
I have not used this set up for model work...yet.
 
Mike.

Further to Antony's post. I have used various sizes of sander drums mounted as shown in the following image for shaping plywood sections
 

 
The various size drums are matched to their own table which is square to the drum axis. The tables can be easily removed and replaced. The base of the unit is attached to a vacuum dust extractor.
 
I have not used this set up for model work...yet.
 
Mike.

Further to Antony's post. I have used various sizes of sander drums mounted as shown in the following image for shaping plywood sections
 

 
The various size drums are matched to their own table which is square to the drum axis. The tables can be easily removed and replaced. The base of the unit is attached to a vacuum dust extractor.
 
I have not used this set up for model work...yet.
 
Mike.

Further to Antony's post. I have used various sizes of sander drums mounted as shown in the following image for shaping plywood sections
 

 
The various size drums are matched to their own table which is square to the drum axis. The tables can be easily removed and replaced. The base of the unit is attached to a vacuum dust extractor.
 
I have not used this set up for model work...yet.
 
Mike.

Further to Antony's post. I have used various sizes of sander drums mounted as shown in the following image for shaping plywood sections
 

 
The various size drums are matched to their own table which is square to the drum axis. The tables can be easily removed and replaced. The base of the unit is attached to a vacuum dust extractor.
 
I have not used this set up for model work...yet.
 
Mike.

Wonderful explanation the drawing attached, thank you! This is exactly  how I worked on my 1:100 Preiser figures. Works the same for all other scales.
 
 
 
First vivisection ...     ... and then reassembled, on the right, the poor lad before being transformed ...     ... and left in his new life as gun captain, holding a leather bag against the vent  to air seal it, for that no smoldering ashes is pushed upwards, while the barrel is sponged.     Two of the Misters got funny tails made of paper stiffened with CA - one already can guess, the marines ...     ... a bit of paint applied ...     .... and the crew is complete :-) The lieutenant, the gun captain, loader 2 with the bullet, sponger 2 with the wad pads, powdermonkee, the marine (at ease, the crossbelts off and the button opened). Sponger and loader are already at their place, waiting for the rest of the gang, the second gun captain and the 7 auxiliaries to pull the strings ...       Don´t ask what the ship can do for the men, ask what do the men have to do for the ship!   Do not look at the figure and ask what could it possibly do ...   The trick is to have a look at the task and then teach each single man how to be acting accordingly.    Here is the crew in place, 13 men          ... or a bit more inside the melée: drama baby - drama :-)           Cheers, Daniel

Leaving it. No point going any further.
 
Mike.

Back again for the final post of this part of the build.
 
These are the parts for my upper deck bitts. They will be assembled and fitted later.
 

 
The gunport lids have been fitted with their hinges and fixed to the ships side and have had the tackles for opening and closing added....
 

 
....and the tackles have been rigged.
 

 
Prompted by the other build that I mentioned in my intro I have added a boarding ladder and manrope.
A piece of timber was shaped, cut to length and shaped some more then fixed to the ships side.
 

 

 
Next the hammock netting frame and netting are attached...
 

 

 

 
...the hammocks will be made and added later.
 
Finally with the bitts in place and populated with some simulated rope and lines the main structure is complete.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
This build neatly divides into three areas. The first, just completed, is the main structure. The second is the the modification and construction of the two great guns and making and fitting their tackles. The third is the making of all the below decks paraphernalia and the final fitting out. This last area is full of scope for imaginative thinking but it is also likely to be the most fiddly and time consuming.
 
There will now be a short intermission.....or it could be a long one for I am off the to the Ordnance yard.
 
Mike.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Sorry about the break in transmission. Some clot at my front door trying to sell me building enhancements 
despite the notice telling him that I neither buy nor sell from the doorstep. He has gone now and will, no doubt, be digesting the advice that I gave him.
 
Where were we? 
 
The last image in my previous post showed the rear frame uprights removed and the start of stanchion fitting.
The stanchions are pinned top and bottom though the bottom ones are not seen.
 

 
Stanchions completed. Note that I have omitted the centre outboard stanchion in order to make room for some extra internal fittings that I have in mind for later.
 

 

 
Knees. I did not like the kit knees very much so I cut some new ones. As I did not have any suitable dark wood available these have been stained ( despite my earlier reply to Jan! ) I will gloss varnish these later to distinguish them!
 

 

 
Knees fitted. 
 

 

 
Gunport lids. These were cut to shape on the Byrnes saw using the tilting table. Oh, how easy!
 

 

 
The lids will be fitted later.
 
At this point I decided to stray from the plans again and add a ladder between the decks as this seemed to link the two levels of the model in a natural way.
 

 

 
The ladder fitted with its hatch combing. Later on I will decide how to finish this off .....grating in situ, set aside or none at all. 
 

 
Next the top deck planking. This caulked with black card and properly trenailed.
 

 
The completed top decking with a "finishing strip" added.
 

 
This image shows the butt shift and caulking before trenailing and sanding.....
 

 
....and this is a general top view after trenailing.
 

 

 
And finally the "finishing strip" at the rear of the deck.
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Back again.
 
The following photos show the curved rib sections and my spacers used to position them. as the spacers cannot be seen after planking they were glued in place. The ribs were found to be a tad short and have been corrected.
The gunnel cap can also be seen here. 
 

 

 

 

 
Making the Whale. Showing scarffe joint and black card caulking .
 

 

 
Fitting the first plank and adding the whale.
 

 
The whale has been treated with ebonising stain but I find it unconvincing. I will see what it looks like later and think again.
 
A drilling template for the trenails.....
 

 
....makes the job straightforward.....
 

 
....and soon completed.
 

 

 
The whale having another coat of stain but I am still not happy. Maybe polishing will improve it. The large trenails in the whale are a mess and will be replaced.
 
Polish applied to see how it looks. Ok, but the whale is still not right.
 

 

 
Back soon.
 
Mike.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

I am building this model for a friend who reads O'Brian almost continuously. With the model on his reading desk aiding his imagination i hope he will be transported into the world that he finds so fascinating.
 

 

 

 

 
I will not be strictly following all aspects of the kit instructions but using some licence to delete, modify or add as I see fit. Historical and physical accuracy will suffer for this and I imagine there will be not a few wry smiles at some of my decisions but I crave indulgence as this is not meant to be an exact depiction but more an instrument of imagination.
At some point in the past I came across a build of this model, not in MSW, that contained some interesting additional aspects. I cannot remember where I saw it but I have remembered and incorporated some of the ideas from that build. I doff my cap in acknowledgement to the builder.
 
Here we go.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
The preceding images show the main framework construction. Keeping this element square was very simple using a build board and the engineering blocks.
The frames have been stained. A decision I later regretted and had to undo.
 
Back soon.
 
Mike. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Nigel,
 
I like your approach. As you probably know there are some heavy duty double sided tapes available these days so it may not be necessary to look beyond them for a fix and this would allow reversion to the original state if a particular job required full clearance. 
 
Mike.

Do a search for hand wheel with revolving handle on the net, dozens of companies make these. It may take some time to find the size you need but I'm sure someone out there will make something suitable.

Brian,
 
I hope you will post details of your solution when you find it. I would be very interested.
 
Mike.

Thanks Mark, already done, lets wait & see!!

I believe this traffic may bear fruit. I do hope so because I agree with the folk that have enjoyed good service....they can be good people to deal with. It was never my intention to bad mouth CMB merely to spotlight a silly failure to deal with problems proactively. Put that right and all will be well.
No need for apologies Jan, no offence taken. It can only be good in the long run to air our grievances and get things sorted.
 
Mike.

Mikeaidennh - only queried your post as this thread has been about caldercraft being poor and the only posts re CMB had been complimentary and therefore your comment didn't seem to fit. Apologies.
 
CMB have always responded promptly to queries other than between Xmas and New Year which is understandable. In fact their delivery turnaround time has always astounded me but then I live in UK. Have ordered lunchtime and 80% of the time receive order next day in post
 
I will again re-iterate, though, that the best way to deal with both CMB and Caldercraft is to call them. However Caldercrafts management do seem to need to go to a time management and organisation course.

Back again for the final post of this part of the build.
 
These are the parts for my upper deck bitts. They will be assembled and fitted later.
 

 
The gunport lids have been fitted with their hinges and fixed to the ships side and have had the tackles for opening and closing added....
 

 
....and the tackles have been rigged.
 

 
Prompted by the other build that I mentioned in my intro I have added a boarding ladder and manrope.
A piece of timber was shaped, cut to length and shaped some more then fixed to the ships side.
 

 

 
Next the hammock netting frame and netting are attached...
 

 

 

 
...the hammocks will be made and added later.
 
Finally with the bitts in place and populated with some simulated rope and lines the main structure is complete.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
This build neatly divides into three areas. The first, just completed, is the main structure. The second is the the modification and construction of the two great guns and making and fitting their tackles. The third is the making of all the below decks paraphernalia and the final fitting out. This last area is full of scope for imaginative thinking but it is also likely to be the most fiddly and time consuming.
 
There will now be a short intermission.....or it could be a long one for I am off the to the Ordnance yard.
 
Mike.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Sorry about the break in transmission. Some clot at my front door trying to sell me building enhancements 
despite the notice telling him that I neither buy nor sell from the doorstep. He has gone now and will, no doubt, be digesting the advice that I gave him.
 
Where were we? 
 
The last image in my previous post showed the rear frame uprights removed and the start of stanchion fitting.
The stanchions are pinned top and bottom though the bottom ones are not seen.
 

 
Stanchions completed. Note that I have omitted the centre outboard stanchion in order to make room for some extra internal fittings that I have in mind for later.
 

 

 
Knees. I did not like the kit knees very much so I cut some new ones. As I did not have any suitable dark wood available these have been stained ( despite my earlier reply to Jan! ) I will gloss varnish these later to distinguish them!
 

 

 
Knees fitted. 
 

 

 
Gunport lids. These were cut to shape on the Byrnes saw using the tilting table. Oh, how easy!
 

 

 
The lids will be fitted later.
 
At this point I decided to stray from the plans again and add a ladder between the decks as this seemed to link the two levels of the model in a natural way.
 

 

 
The ladder fitted with its hatch combing. Later on I will decide how to finish this off .....grating in situ, set aside or none at all. 
 

 
Next the top deck planking. This caulked with black card and properly trenailed.
 

 
The completed top decking with a "finishing strip" added.
 

 
This image shows the butt shift and caulking before trenailing and sanding.....
 

 
....and this is a general top view after trenailing.
 

 

 
And finally the "finishing strip" at the rear of the deck.
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Back for more. This time it is the gun deck planking.
 
Before the planking can be fitted a hatchway and grating must be made.
 

 

 
The next image shows my jig for laying out the planking, working out the butt shift and trenailing.
 

 
As this deck will eventually be almost completely covered by cannon and various other fixtures and fittings I am not going to caulk and trenail properly but simply fake these features. The caulking will be black pencil edging and the trenails indentations in the planking made with the Patent Trenail Marker as per the other build that I mentioned in the intro to this one. I have, I think, improved on the original concept of the PTM by the addition of my impact centre punch!
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Now the planking is laid out on the jig, the butt shift joints are all marked up and the trenails have been punched in.
 

 
Laying planking commences....
 

 
....and completes with the fitting of the hatch.
 

 

 
Back later.
 
Mike
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Thanks for the interest Shihawk and Bart.
 
Bart, the kit is usually available in the UK and is currently on Cornwall Model Boats books for £130.00
 
I also put a quick search in and found at least one USA outlet offering it for $ 190.
 
Hope this might help.
 
Mike.
 
Ps. In the USA it is called Panart Battle Station.

Sorry about the break in transmission. Some clot at my front door trying to sell me building enhancements 
despite the notice telling him that I neither buy nor sell from the doorstep. He has gone now and will, no doubt, be digesting the advice that I gave him.
 
Where were we? 
 
The last image in my previous post showed the rear frame uprights removed and the start of stanchion fitting.
The stanchions are pinned top and bottom though the bottom ones are not seen.
 

 
Stanchions completed. Note that I have omitted the centre outboard stanchion in order to make room for some extra internal fittings that I have in mind for later.
 

 

 
Knees. I did not like the kit knees very much so I cut some new ones. As I did not have any suitable dark wood available these have been stained ( despite my earlier reply to Jan! ) I will gloss varnish these later to distinguish them!
 

 

 
Knees fitted. 
 

 

 
Gunport lids. These were cut to shape on the Byrnes saw using the tilting table. Oh, how easy!
 

 

 
The lids will be fitted later.
 
At this point I decided to stray from the plans again and add a ladder between the decks as this seemed to link the two levels of the model in a natural way.
 

 

 
The ladder fitted with its hatch combing. Later on I will decide how to finish this off .....grating in situ, set aside or none at all. 
 

 
Next the top deck planking. This caulked with black card and properly trenailed.
 

 
The completed top decking with a "finishing strip" added.
 

 
This image shows the butt shift and caulking before trenailing and sanding.....
 

 
....and this is a general top view after trenailing.
 

 

 
And finally the "finishing strip" at the rear of the deck.