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tkay11

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  1. tkay11
    We probably need to start another thread to document such lovely stories. Thanks for the info about grinding, Per. I'm just writing up my log to document my experience with rebuilding the cannon carriages and making the barrels. Tony
  2. tkay11
    Thanks, Per. The Clerkenwell story reminds me of some local car mechanics I once knew at Lake Manyara in Tanzania. The road by them was often flooded (if you know the area the river was Mto wa Mbu, or Mosquito River), and cars regularly died as a result of foolish attempts at getting through -- sucking water into the engine. They could dismantle a car and knock a crankshaft back to straight using hammers and iron blocks, checking alignment by eye. I use the Scary Sharp method for my wood chisels, but I have been a bit hesitant after reading about the variety of angles needed for graver bits. I'd probably need to practise quite a lot. At the moment I've been turning some boxwood and have been very impressed with the result (not with my technique or the appearance, more the beauty of the wood and the way a sharp blade can be used so accurately for fine detail with this wood). So once I've learnt the skills with the wood lathe, I'll definitely consider moving to brass, using proper gravers and sharpening by hand. Thanks again for the input. By the way, I didn't understand your commment "there is really very little steel to remove afterwards to get the right shape". Is that a good or a bad thing? What is the implication? Tony
  3. tkay11
    Yes, thanks, Walt. I was in fact grateful for your explanation about the different needs in tooling and should have made that clear. Before, I had just known that they were different -- you provided the very helpful explanation. And you're right. I'm doing the best I can to know as many of the ins and outs as possible to any new skill before I try it out. Tony
  4. tkay11
    Thanks very much, Per. Very useful. Just out of interest, and sorry for what must seem endless questions, what do you use to keep the graver dead sharp? Tony
  5. tkay11
    Thanks very much, Walt, Brian and David. I had understood that metal turning was quite different, but had been interested by the video of the guy turning brass by hand. So I wanted to find out more about that and the tools required. As usual with this modelling business, the moment I start looking at a new question I find there's a whole new world of experience, expertise and tooling. So I now hear about gravers, length of gravers, lathe speeds, grinding, grinding tools, use of files, sharpening methods (by hand or with tools), heels, faces, dangers, and a variety of possibilities in addition to some fascinating stuff about the world of engravers. All wonderful. What I can see is that there is plenty of room for experimentation with suitable cautions. Just a couple more questions (for the moment!). Brian (or anyone), could you let me know what 'slow' speed you use that is suitable for turning brass with a graver (in rpm)? It sounds like 200-500rpm would be good. Is that right? And what kind of gravers do you use? I have seen some hand gravers on eBay (see http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291056537288?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT) but suspect that the handles are too short and are designed not for turning but for engraving sheet metal. Would that be right? Thanks so much for all the help I have had so far in answering what must have seemed to you pros a daft question! Tony
  6. tkay11
    Thanks, David. That's reassuring to know. I've ordered some 4mm brass rod that I can experiment with, alongside the ebony and boxwood that I've ordered. I have some very nice needle files (Klein, Swiss style). Tony
  7. tkay11
    Those are interesting and nice ideas, Mark. I've already been using files with the wood, but hadn't thought of using them exclusively. I'll look into grinding stones and mandrels, but if the files work, then so much the better. In fact I have very small grinding wheels with my Proxxon drill which I used for tiny chisels (until I found the Scary Sharp method), but I should imagine they are far too small and underpowered for gravers. Thank you very much! Tony
  8. tkay11
    Thanks for the tips, Trailguy. Yes, pen turning blanks are useful -- I've been using pear and apple blanks from eBay to learn how to work with these woods. I hadn't known about Volcanic Ash Black Lava, so I'll have a look for suppliers here in the UK. I like the idea about the polish. Tony
  9. tkay11
    Yes, indeed, David. Good advice re practice and safety. I've been using mask and safety glasses, and I'll continue the carefulness once I get to metal. Thanks Tony
  10. tkay11
    Thanks, David. Takes a bit of the mystery out of grinding the tools. I'd seen exactly that second video about turning a cannon and that was what gave me the idea to try it on my lathe. Do you have any idea of the speed he was using on the lathe? It seemed quite fast to me. I was also thinking that the hand-held watchmakers gravers I've seen on eBay might be already sharpened and so give me an idea of how to use them. Would that be right? Tony
  11. tkay11
    Makes sense, Jud. Thanks. I suppose you'd need long arms as well. My arms are only about 60cm long and I need to keep my eyes fairly near the workpiece to make sure i can see what's happening down there. But I suppose the hands wouldn't have to go all the way to the end of the handle. Joking aside, I get the message. Mechanical advantage and control! Tony
  12. tkay11
    Yes, thanks, David. The Sherline sounds like a great machine from all that I have heard on the forum. I had been thinking of casting them once I'd managed to make a good master (even though there are only 8 on the Sherbourne). That's yet another on the long list of skills I am eager to learn. Tony
  13. tkay11
    Very interesting comment, Jud. I note that watchmakers lathes can be powered in a number of different ways -- which would allow for the very slow turning speeds. My Proxxon turns at 1,000 rpm at its slowest speed, so that looks as though it would be far too fast. As a matter of interest, why the long handles (3ft)? Tony
  14. tkay11
    Thanks for the advice and suggestions, David and Nigel. I've ordered ebony along with the boxwood and will be interested to see how it all turns out. I'll keep the ideas about brass turning until a future date when I can treat myself to a bench grinder. In any case, it's always good to improve basic skills at the wood lathe to the point at which I can be satisfied with the skill. Tony
  15. tkay11
    Hmm. Thanks, Nigel. I've been looking at Workshop Heaven for the boxwood. I've also been thinking of Castello Boxwood. I hadn't considered ebony, but it's another good idea for me to consider. Isn't ebony dust rather poisonous? Or am I being over-cautious? I could easily order boxwood and ebony to see how I got on with them. Tony
  16. tkay11
    Thanks, David. They look like the tools suggested at the Sherline site for making by hand. Do you use a bench grinder to sharpen them, or do you use something like Wet & Dry paper glued to a smooth surface (as in the Scary Sharp method)? Tony
  17. tkay11
    Thanks, Bill. That's a good idea about the paste filler. and primer. I think I'll do that. After a bit of web searching, I found a nice link on the Sherline site about making and using watchmaker's gravers. It's at http://www.sherline.com/gravers.htm. It links to a page that shows how to use the Sherline T-rest with a graver. Unfortunately, though, it looks as though the business of buying a bench grinder and a stone to do all the sharpening and shaping required seems to put this idea out of my reach. I think I'll be sticking to the boxwood. Tony
  18. tkay11
    Thanks, David. I'd be very interested in the photos if you can get round to it once you're back in Chicago. I had a feeling that I'd have to end up grinding my own, so if you have any links on how to do that I'd be grateful. I found that even with the wood very light cuts give the best results -- and it was so satisfying I am rather hooked on the idea of doing more lathe work. (I had bought the lathe mainly for yards and masts, but was delighted to find I could do quite fine work on it). Tony
  19. tkay11
    Ok, Antony. I think I'll keep my head. Nice idea about the gilding, though. I had seen it, and that was what made me think of the boxwood. My guns are going to be black, so a coat of paint is all I really need. My problem was with the pear wood that I had -- the finish was just too grainy. It's possible that the wood I am using is not quite the right type of pear wood (it was from pen turning blanks sold on eBay), so that's why I'm looking around. Of course it's equally possible that it's my technique that is at fault. I've seen a video of someone using a watchmaker's lathe with a graving tool to turn cannon from brass, so that's what gave me the idea of using my own lathe. I presume it's just the type of cutter that's important -- rather than the lathe itself. But I'm all ears to any advice! Thanks for the very prompt reply! Tony
  20. tkay11
    I have a Proxxon DB 250 wood turning lathe, and am comfortable with using the Proxxon set of turning chisels with it. I have just learned to turn cannon with it using hardwood. However, I can see that for really good results I should either use boxwood or brass. If I try to turn brass rod on this lathe, could I use the same chisels, or would I have to grind some down from HSS stock -- or even use watchmakers HSS rod or gravers? I'd be grateful for any advice on this. Thanks Tony
  21. tkay11
    I've just bothered to do the calculation on the weights. According to the weights given in the AOTS book on the Cutter Alert, a 3pdr cannon would weigh 394 Kg. A 12pdr carronade would weigh 292Kg. I have no idea, though, of the forces associated with each. Tony
  22. tkay11
    Nice discussion, Gregor. As Kester says, these cutter kits are a delight to play around with, experiment on and learn in whichever area you care to explore. Would the 12-pounder carronades have had more recoil etc than 3-pounder cannon and so have put more stress on the deck and bulwarks? I see the diameter of the carronade 12-pounder shot was 4.4 inches as against 2.774 inches for a cannon's 3-pound shot, so at scale that would be 1.75mm, which is nearer to the 2mm shot I currently have to use. I think I'll stick with the cannon, though. I decided to cut the gun ports to the rail as shown in the NMM plans. That has made the fitting of the cannon much easier as it was the height of the top edge of the port that was proving difficult. I would have thought 3-pounders wouldn't have been too heavy. It's a great pity that the barrels in the kit are the equivalent of 3.5 pounders at 1/64 scale. As you'll see fairly soon, I've re-done all the carriages to the scale of a 3.5 pounder in order to save myself buying or searching for the exact size barrel, and as a result they just fit the modified gunports. Now if they had been 3 pounders, I reckon they might have fit perfectly. Tony
  23. tkay11
    Transom surround? No. 18th Century telly for those long sea trips. Tony
  24. tkay11
    Yes, lovely details. I look forward to the pictures of your progress of your build up to this stage. Tony
  25. tkay11
    Interesting research. I look forward to the finished swivel guns. Fun, isn't it! Tony

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