tkay11
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Nice one, John, and perfect examples. I'm still looking at the Sherbourne plan, though, which shows the crutch well forward of the stern, but so much in the line of the rudder that it makes some sense to think that it would lie either side of the rudder. Tony -
And am I right in thinking, Doreltomin, that the boom is firmly lashed to someting just in front of the rest, or is that parallax error? Tony
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Thanks, everyone, for the ideas. I've been out all evening, so missed the discussion and glad to get back to it. I like the idea of the boom support to one side. If it is something on the side, and since in such a position it would be rather in the way of the aft swivel gunners, could it be that it was something that slipped in and out of a sheath on the out side of the boat? If so, that would mean: 1. that there would only need to be one, which could be transferred from one side to another according to need. 2. that it could be stowed very easily indeed, being relatively small, when not needed at all -- and hence would not be something that would be a normal feature of models as only used for particular occasions when the boom, after a hard day's work, needed a little lie down and a rest from all that rolling around. Just ideas, guys, until we hear something definitive. Tony
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Thanks, Gregor. Very nice workmanship, and I'd not seen the Science Museum photos. I had seen the one in Peterssen, but I was intrigued by the different position on the Sherbourne plan. Tony
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Now this is really getting interesting, Jay. Great insight! Maybe it really is a catapult. No, ok, I won't press for that. How about something that linked to stern davits for that elusive method of carrying the ship's boat? I wouldn't really buy that either, since it or they are in the wrong kind of position. But I'm looking forward to more ideas as you and others get into this. The curly nature of the prongs at their ends seem to be redundant if they were to be a support, and wouldn't be much in keeping with the rest of the ship -- which surely is far from ornate and is instead very functional. Tony
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As I'm very lazy when it comes to working things out, I'll wait a while to hear whether any other ideas come up. Perhaps a battery-operated support that rises through a hole in the deck and unfolds the arms as it rises? The truth is at the moment your idea, Kester, is the most pragmatic and based on something that really worked. Tony
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Darn it! I'm cursing myself for not noticing Kester's photo in his own build, and very disappointed that it's not really a catapult. It would have been fun making a working model of a catapult with the ammo -- it certainly would appeal to the grandchildren. But thanks, Kester, for helping out, as usual. It's a nice idea to make it in the form of a cross -- which makes it easy to set up and perfect for taking weight. However, the drawing shows a single pole with a U-shaped hook, so it looks as though there's another way of doing it. Tony
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I am thinking about whether I build my model of the cutter Sherbourne with sails or not, and in the process have been considering how the boom might be supported. The following is a section of the plans showing what I reckon to be a support for the boom, and presume in my ignorance that it might only be used when no sails are on. Could someone advise me of the name and function of this piece and how it is attached to the deck, if at all? If, of course, it turns out to be an old TV aerial or washing line support or even the support for a rather large catapult used in the event of the swivel guns failing, or perhaps a perch for the man at the tiller when he wanted to have a better look ahead, then I would be equally happy of the advice. Thanks Tony
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What type of lacquer do you use, Wefalck? Nail lacquer? Tony
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Colouring mono-filament line for seizing line on blocks
tkay11 replied to tkay11's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
That's a great idea, Tom. Thanks very much. The kind of thing that's obvious but requires thought -- which I didn't have! Tony -
Colouring mono-filament line for seizing line on blocks
tkay11 replied to tkay11's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Thanks for the interest, Tom. It's simply because the thinnest thread I can find is Denier 100 and 0.25mm thick. This is the same thickness as the thread I use to strop the blocks. So when I come to seize the blocks, using the same diameter thread looks silly and out of scale. I have noticed, as I said, people using monofilament and fishing line for various types of rigging, so I thought I'd aske the questions. 0.12mm diameter line would be the equivalent of 1" circumference rope at the 1:64 scale I am working at, so that seems a reasonable width to aim at. As to tying it, I had been thinking it would be a combination of knot and CA glue, but maybe my idea is simply mistaken. I've also thought of three-stranded braided fishing line. If you know of thread finer than the Cordonnet 100 I found, then of course it would be great to know about. Basically I'm all ears when it comes to advice about this as I've not done anything like this before. Tony -
Colouring mono-filament line for seizing line on blocks
tkay11 replied to tkay11's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
OK, I've found more colours available after changing the way I was searching, but I'd still like to know about the possibility of colouring transparent monofilament. Thanks everyone! Tony -
I have been learning how to seize the line on the blocks I've made, and have found that the 0.25mm thread I'm using still seems a bit too large. I've also noticed that many of you use mono-filament fishing line which I see goes down to 0.05mm or so. However, it seems that the monofilament line comes either in transparent, yellow or black, and I haven't seen any in other shades. Is it possible to colour such line, and, if so, how? Thanks, as always, for any experience and advice! Tony
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Got it! At last! Thanks a lot for the time you've taken to get through to my old addled brain, Andy! Tony
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The most silent disk sander
tkay11 replied to Mike Y's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I agree with Richard. My Proxxon sander runs very quiet without a vac. But I agree that noisiness is fairly subjective. Let me say I find the noise of the vacuum cleaner nearly unbearable. Tony -
Thanks for trying to help me, Andy, but I can see I am missing something vital. It could be I am using the wrong terms. The way I am using 'line to be served' means for me the thicker rope around which is coiled the thinner rope. Isn't that thicker rope just strung along the top -- i.e. the two parts holding the thicker rope are at the top? With that thicker rope strung across the top, I have seen that the thinner rope is held at one end of the thicker rope, the thicker rope rotated, and the thinner rope then fed along that thicker rope by hand, thus being wrapped around the thicker rope. Is that right? So my question is how the bottom shaft plays a part in this. Does that make sense as a question? Sorry if it doesn't but I'd be glad of further help! Tony
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I am thinking of building a serving machine, but there's one thing I can't quite get my head around. I get the idea of the top line which rotates so that thread can be coiled around it whilst holding one end of the thread by hand and feeding it. However I don't understand the need for a geared rotating bottom shaft. What is the function of that? I've not seen it being used in any of the videos or pictures I have seen of serving machines so far. Sorry if this is blindingly obvious to everyone else! Tony
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US Brig Syren 1803 by danri - Scale 1:64
tkay11 replied to danri's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
Yes, I like the belaying pins very much too. Any hints as to how you made them? In a lathe or drill etc? Or just by hand with a file? Tony -
Very interesting, Gregor. Thanks a lot. I like the book too -- you are probably pleased with seeing all those gunport lids. I suppose you'll notice that Peterssen also put lids on his gunport drawings. Tony
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- Sherbourne
- Cutter
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This kind of thing does take careful measurement and patience. I cut before laying the plank, but always oversize so that I can then trim it down wherever necessary. If the walnut is breaking, then you can always wipe it with a dilute solution of PVA and let it dry a while before planking. Heat will allow it to bend easily. As to cutting the walnut, I use a single-sided razor blade in a thick handle (e.g. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Stanley-Razor-Edge-Scraper-Blades/dp/B0001IW65I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1399985407&sr=8-2&keywords=single+sided+razor+blades), or else a scalpel with a new heavy blade. I'm not quite clear what you mean by cutting in situ -- something I would imagine could be fairly risky in terms of damaging the hull and making mistakes. That shouldn't be necessary. One edge (as far as I know, and that is of course very little) will always be a straight edge, and the other you will be cutting to fit. If the fit is wrong, just cut another piece. That would be much harder to do if you try to do it in situ. Others may, as usual, have better ideas. I'm just throwing in my experience. Tony
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Some build their own clamps. I just used finger pressure till the PVA glue set (about 30 secs). Some have a mixture of PVA and CA, using CA in just a couple of spots and the PVA over the rest of the plank. If the CA is just soaking into the wood, you might try the thicker CA glues. I am sure others will come up with better answers. Tony
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After much consideration my first build will be:
tkay11 replied to rdowsett's topic in Wood ship model kits
It's a lovely model. I would have started with that myself, except it wasn't in stock at the time. Looking forward to your build log. Tony -
Thanks, Jan. We're all hoping things are going well with your health and looking forward to having you back on your build. Tony
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Great work, Gregor, and tremendously helpful. Thanks Tony
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Just as a small addendum to the build log, I forgot to mention how important it was for me not to try to put too much detail into the carriages, as I found before that when doing so (with my existing skills) the results could be messy and detract from a reasonable interpretation at this scale. So I have deliberately left out the detailed bolts of the cap squares, the pins on the axle trees, the chains to the cap squares, the separation of the planking on the sides of the carriages, the details of the tucks, and a host of other important aspects of a real cannon. I'm not sure where this places me in relation to authenticity. Perhaps it is a mix of consistency with the remainder of the build, what is achievable at scale with the materials and tools used, level of personal confidence, and with an understanding of the limitation of the skills for my particular level of experience (and shakiness of hands) that defines the 'authenticity'. With such a definition, 'authenticity' would have very different meanings for each individual builder. Tony
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- Caldercraft
- First build
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