tkay11

Cornwall Model Boats also stock a very good range of tools as well as some tool packages (that may not be so useful) at competitive prices. Once you have looked at the links to the tools lists already posted by Mark, you'll find you can buy them from CMB. If your dad has already expressed the interest and he knows you are doing this for him, you might like to ask him what tools he would like. Another approach would be to buy the kit and then ask him what tools he would like to go with it after he has had a poke around the wood that is supplied with the kit, the instructions, etc. You might be into buying glue of two types (cyano-acrylate and PVA), tweezers, lots of cheap clamps, knives with spare blades, pin vice with micro drill bits, and razor saw with mitre box as well as paint set and brushes if he decides to paint. You'll find that many of the kits come with a recommended paint set. You may also find that if you buy a tool set that some of the included tools are never used as they are not really useful. Tony

Thanks, Gregor, for the info. I put holes into the cross piece exactly because of George Bandurek's build. I have no idea at all at this time of the belaying plan, and that's a problem for me because I don't yet understand the rigging -- having left that until I complete the deck. So the belaying pins are merely guess work on my part. As for the ship's boat, I was reading the discussion in the build of the cutter Alert on this forum at http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/4993-naval-cutter-alert-by-anobiumpuncatum-scale-148-pof/?p=147403, and followed the link to Roger Cole's build of the Alert. I had already downloaded his notes on the Alert, but I had entirely forgotten about them. In these notes he makes the point that the ship's boat could not have been stowed on deck, but would have been towed because (a) the boat would have been too heavy for the spars to lift it out of the water, and ( it would have been much too much in the way of the rope handling. Roger Cole also seems not to have any belaying pins on the cross-piece of his jeer bitts, and the design is interesting in that he includes supports for the jeer bitts that extend around the mast. It's interesting that Roger Cole has left the coamings squared off. He clearly did a lot of research on the Alert, which is a slightly later vessel than the Sherbourne. However, I much prefer the look of yours! By the way, I hadn't noticed the lovely pawls you have on your jeer bitts. Very nice work! I'll have to practise more! Tony

I love the idea of the pawls made with the pliers. Great work, Gregor. and interesting thoughts from Kester, as usual. Unfortunately I have no sailing experience whatsoever, apart from a couple of hours in a fishing boat off Mocambique which used just one sail. Oh, and a felucca for an hour. I don't even know what the terms 'bending' a rope or 'veering' an anchor mean. Time to use the search engine! [edit] Also I forgot to mention your coamings. They look great, although the Alert plans show them just as squared off. I would have expected them to be rounded at the edges to reduce injuries, and I have seen them shaped like that in other models. Do you have particular reasons for the shaping of the coamings round the gratings? I might just reshape mine to follow your path. Tony

For all your self-criticism, it looks good, and you have to start looking at it closely to see the difficulties. It's also highly probable that friends or relatives will look at it and admire the work -- precisely because they don't see it with the same precise attention to detail that you have given it for such a long time.. You'll find it a common theme amongst the ship modellers here that they are their own severest critics -- it's part of the deal when you are into something that demands, as you say, a lot of patience. It is deeply satisfying when technique improves with experience. I am constantly learning more patience. Looking forward to the continuation Tony

Well done for getting this far so quickly! Clinker planking is more difficult to do than the carvel type. I am sure you enjoyed working out the solution to your problem. If you want to see the effect on another Sherbourne, have a look at Stockholm Tar's at http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/2918-sherbourne-by-stockholm-tar-moved-by-moderator/?p=83995. You'll see the concentric effect there as well. Good luck on the other side! Tony

Thanks, Jan. It's catching, this model ship building thing, isn't it! You're doing a great job on that clinker planking. Reading how people do things is exactly what I am doing all the time. With regard to the hull planking, I am not clear from your log whether you are already doing this, but one piece of advice that people give is that it is a good idea to work on both sides of the hull -- lay a few strakes of planking on one side, then do the same number on the other. The reason they give is, firstly, that it is then easier to establish symmetry of planking on both sides, and secondly that it avoids creation of strain on one side. I don't think it will make much difference in terms of the strain on the small boats we are doing, especially if we have filled between the bulkheads, but it is a good idea in terms of symmetry. Don't worry about your English -- you're communicating well and that's what matters. Tony

Shamrock, it's only as demanding as you make it. If you've already done the Amati Shamrock (did you choose the model because of your name or are you just using your model's name for yourself?), then clearly you're not worried about working with wood and I should imagine you found various 'difficulties' of your own to get over during that build. The Sherbourne is most definitely suitable for a beginner. After all, I'm a beginner, and have enjoyed every moment. The only new aspect that the Sherbourne or the Chatham might offer over the Shamrock is the planking on the hull (ok, maybe the rigging will be more complicated and there's a few guns to work on), but there are plenty of tutorials on this forum (which I myself had to follow) to help you along. When I first looked at the tutorials there were several aspects that had me totally mystified (especially the instructions on how to cut a garboard plank). But I soon found out that the best way of learning was just starting and trying it out. Of course mistakes are made, but then it's easy enough to undo them and start again. An advantage of double planking is that it really doesn't matter how badly you do the first planking since it's never going to be seen, and it gives you plenty of practice for the outer layer. I am a complete beginner at working with wood and it is about 45 years since I fiddled around with plastic models (which at that time meant sticking one pre-formed part to another and following the instructions -- the only slight skill I had at that time was painting them). I thought, however, that if others could do these wonderful things with wood, and if others had similarly had to start somewhere, then it would be quite reasonable for me to try my hand. At the time I started, there were a lot of Sherbourne builds and so it was easy to see the various stages of assembly and there was plenty of help and encouragement (a tradition that is strongly maintained on this forum) -- it still surprises me how the highly experienced modelers on the forum spend a lot of time with newcomers such as myself when they must have seen and been through the same stages many times over. The only real 'difficulty' that most people found with the Sherbourne was fitting the transom at the stern, and each individual chose their own way of doing it. Otherwise you can make the kit as easily as you please just using the parts supplied. So it all depends on what you'd like to do. My own personal preference is to see every single part as a new model in itself with its own set of skills which I know I have to learn if I want to accomplish something better in the future. I have enjoyed exploring the variety of ways in which people have approached the individual parts. So I thought "hmm, nibbed planking, don't understand that, so I'd better see if I can learn how to do it". Then the same thing happened with the pumps, the windlass, and the other deck fittings. Then I saw someone making a ship's boat, and I thought I'd try that out as well. In other words, I liked what others were doing, and simply tried my hand at it. Maybe I am not achieving the wonderful finish that others have achieved, but it's been tremendous fun learning that I can actually do something like that. In the last month or so I decided I was very unsatisfied both with the gratings and with the shot racks that I made, so I have torn off the shot racks and made them all over again, and I have remade the gratings after learning how to use my saw to do so. All that will be forthcoming in some future part of this log. I was also very pleased at finding a way to convert my Proxxon drill stand into a mill. You should be getting the idea that no matter what your starting point there's a lot that's very achievable even if you can't see right now quite how to do it. A lot of the fun is puzzling it out for the particular tools and materials that you have to hand. When I go over the ways in which I have approached each step, I am highly conscious that others may have looked at the step in the same way and wondered how to go about it. So I just spend time explaining what I have done in case it helps other novices think through how they might approach it for themselves. The more experienced quite often will have done it better, but everyone understands that just doing it helps you develop your own sense of what you want to get out of the hobby. Another word of caution: don't be carried away with the need to make a build as accurate historically as possible. There are only degrees of similarity. For one thing, the sizes are completely different. If you just stick to the kit parts you'll still have a very pleasing model. You just have to decide what is 'pleasing' for yourself. The Chatham is a lovely model, and will have exactly the same skills required as for the Sherbourne. My estimate is that you will find it very pleasing but I can't predict what aspects you will find challenging. So why not post some pictures of your model Shamrock (especially if you have any photos of the building process) and start your log of the Chatham once it arrives. I and many others will look forward to seeing your progress. The thing is not to think from the start that it is going to be difficult. It may be difficult in the sense that at first you may feel it hard to achieve a particular accuracy, but you'll find that bit by bit your skills develop. I hope that offers some encouragement. You'll probably also find that once started not only will you not have a nervous breakdown, but that building these models is a great way to relax and to avoid one. Keep us posted on how you get on! Tony

How delightful to have a scratch model of the Alert on MSW2! It is one of my dreams that one day I will be able to do the same, so I'll be watching this build log with interest. I presume you've seen the 3D CAD build automated into a video at http://sketchucation.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=333&t=33757&sid=f942299afdf93114ad1c504acb5c6417, which is also based on Goodwin's book. Thanks very much for starting on this! Tony

The questions that remain unanswered and probably unmeasurable are dose, frequency and duration of exposure -- in addition to susceptibility. With the water example, the duration was very short but short exposures for immersion are non-toxic. Traffic pollution is definitely carcinogenic (and the traffic itself far more deadly of course) but for a tolerable number of humans. 'Toxic' is far preferable as a word to 'carcinogenic' because of the wide variety of possible health outcomes resulting from exposure, with varying intensities (from a mild itch to death). For some reason humans as a whole are more fearful of dying from cancer than any other form of death, with other forms often being more horrific, long-lasting, debilitating or painful. The simple message is that working with any tools or with any substrate (such as wood) has health hazards, and we choose to live with the uncertainties of particular risks because of the pleasure the activity gives. At the same time we take precautions to minimise the risks, so can use masks, dust extractors and good ventilation. There are many shipwrights amongst us who have lived four score years and ten even after a lifetime of exposure to a wide variety of toxic substances, and here I include alcohol -- that well-known carcinogen. Others have passed away earlier after their particular lifetimes of happiness. Genetics are clearly involved. So it's not with a pinch of salt that I take the news of toxicity of sawdust, as salt itself is very toxic and lethal at particular doses. Tony

That's great. Thanks, Nick. Tony

Thanks for the info, Nick. Could you give a link to the tool rest that you found online? Tony

Thanks, Jud and Wefalk, for taking me through something that should have been obvious if I'd bothered to put my mind to it instead of thinking there must be something more complicated to do! It's like a lot of the ship modelling I've been doing. Simple often wins -- just a little plain practical thinking needed! Thanks again, guys! Tony

Thanks very much, Jud. That's the kind of nice and simple idea that really appeals. Any suggestions for square stock? I hadn't thought that having a dial indicator might have problems when it comes to square stock but your idea made me think more carefully about how it would work for square stock. Tony

I am about to buy a Proxxon DB 250 wood lathe, along with an independent 4-jaw chuck. My questions are about the centering of stock in such a chuck. All the suggestions I have seen so far demand the use of a dial indicator. These have magnetic mounts. The questions are: 1. In practice is it important to have a dial indicator for centering the stock in this lathe (i.e. are the tolerances in wood wide enough to allow for centering by eye)? 2. How do you mount a dial indicator on the Proxxon since (as far as I know) the DB250 is not made of a ferrous metal that would take a magnetic base (i.e would I have to glue a sheet of metal to the housing to take the magnetic base)? I'd be grateful for any advice. Thanks Tony

You're right, Joe. I wasn't paying attention. Thanks for the correction. Tony

Mike, you might be thinking of the Bluejacket Shipcrafters kit of the Jefferson Davis. You can see it at http://www.bluejacketinc.com/kits/jeffersondavis.htm. It costs $375, and features in Milton Roth's book 'Ship Modelling from Stem to Stern'. The blurb on the web site says: "JEFFERSON DAVIS was one of the most famous of the swift patrol vessels, used both off our Atlantic and Pacific coasts. She is one of the Campbell class of 14 revenue cutters. This class has been described as being the "ultimate Baltimore clipper," square topsail schooners. This is a model for the experienced modeler. The rugged 1/4" basswood frames are closely spaced as in actual ship construction, allowing plenty of bearing surface for a smooth planking job. The frames are pre-beveled to ensure easy clamping and a fair lay to the planking. Most importantly, JEFFERSON DAVIS is a beautiful, impressive model." However, as you are in Milton Keynes you might find the cost of shipping, import duty and VAT a bit too much on top. Tony

The Lady Nelson is a 10-gunner cutter as well as being a highly recommended kit. Tony

Don't worry about ignoring advice or suggestions -- we all have different perspectives. As to the planking, look up the excellent tutorials under 'Framing and Planking' in the 'Articles/Downloads' section. You'll see them at http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-framing-and-planking-articles.php. Antscherl's article is the one to go for first, perhaps. Tony

The Sherbourne has ports for 10 guns, but the kit supplies 8. I suspect the ports in the bow would normally be used only in cases of necessity as otherwise they might be too much in the way during normal sailing. Tony

If you have used aliphatic wood glue, you just need to use isopropyl alcohol (isopropanol) which you can find easily at any pharmacy, or even on eBay in large quantities (I bought 500ml because I use it so much -- which tells you how often I have to unglue parts). Use a brush to keep soaking the area where it's glued and you'll find it comes away easily after 5-10 minutes. Tony

Don't worry, Jan, everyone has the same experience -- no matter how careful we think we are being. There's a saying many on the forum use which is something like 'measure twice, measure again, cut once' which indicates that the problem exists. But, as you have found out, working with wood and glues that we can dissolve means that we can develop patience to do it more carefully next time. Tony

That's a lovely little boat you built. As to the Sherbourne manual, if you want it in a hurry, I can post you a pdf file of the manual while you are waiting for the original. Let me know by Personal Message (PM) and I'll get it to you. Tony

Great to see this log started, Jan! Welcome to the Sherbourne fleet! I'll be following this log with great interest. Tony

There used to be at least two Ballahoo builds on MSW 1.0 (i.e. before the Great Crash) but their logs disappeared with it and have not been replaced. I had thought either vulcanbomber or bangle was one of the ones who did the build, but a quick search on their names now suggests that my memory is haywire as there is no reference to Ballahoo under their names. I also searched the Internet Archive of MSW 1.0 but there was only one page available for Balahoo under the name cornishxxx (who doesn't seem to be on this rebuilt forum -- so this is by way of saying it looks as though you can't ask an original builder to repost their logs! I think the choice is whether you want to have guidance on your build for the particularities of your kit or whether you are happy to go for general advice. If you like the Ballahoo then you'll get lots of support anyway as you come across problems (most problems with builds are not really specific to a model). If you want the security of seeing how others have built a model, there are one-masted models such as the Chatham, Lady Nelson and Sherbourne which probably are similar in construction and in the same price range (although on this forum there are now no Chathams being built). Others have gone for the Bounty Jolly Boat as a nice first build. Either way, as has been said, you will pick it up fairly quickly with lots of support from people who will be looking out for you. This is a particularly friendly forum from that point of view -- many of the most experienced modellers on this site have often stated that they too at one time have been through the same issues with a first build and are only too eager to help others. The moderators keep a sharp eye out for new builds so that they can do just that. Tony

Quiet as far as the forum goes. I've been very busy with supporting a music festival run by my son as well after having returned from a long trip abroad, but I've also been re-thinking how to make blocks as I discovered that my method of attaching hooks to the blocks made the whole unit (block + hook) so large that there was no room for the ropes between blocks! All the same, it's lovely to see your bowsprit, Gregor. Now that you're ahead of me in construction I can learn from you -- so that's a real bonus! Tony (hoping to have something to show by the end of the year!)