Jsk

Once again the cleanness and consistency of your building amazes me. Job well done!

Hmmm.... The SM B3 handle seems difficult to find in the US.

Wow, a lot of information to absorb here. Thanks so much. It's all good. Most of the parts I get back from the printer still have the supports attached so I can determine the orientation in which they were printed. Does it make sense to orient the model and model the supports in the modeling program? The few slicer programs I've looked at do that for you. I assumed it would be rather slicer/printer specific but perhaps it's just more for convenience sake. I've been rather old-school in my modeling thinking that the fewer triangles in the model the easier and more effecient to print. But it sounds like that's not really the case.

Bah, you say that about all your builds!

Thanks, guys. I'll give UMM a bit of support. I've got blades that will fit both handles though I almost always use the #11 blade.

I've found that scalpel blades are so much better than hobby blades. But I don't like the standard flat #3 scalpel handle. I like that it doesn't roll away, but I find it rather difficult to hold and determine if I'm holding it the right way. Are there any alternatives? I've got a Fiskars finger grip knife, which I really like. But it doesn't hold a #11 scalpel blades, only #11 hobby blades. Suggestions? TIA

Is there any indication as to who designed this model? I'm struck by how similar so many of these card kits are to each other. The instructions all look the same, too. Of course, you never find out what's missing in the instructions until you get to building!

Me, too! When I started working on the Seahorse Revenue Cutter a year ago I think I read your entire blog soaking up a lot of ideas on how to approach the build. Very inspiring! I'm really glad you're back to working on the Wolf.

Sounds delicious. I'm going to have to try that. Sounds like a Netflix series about pirates. That interior coating of epoxy is an interesting technique. This is a static model, right? Not built for actual use on water?

Thanks. Yeah, they're small. The small guns are suppose to be 3 and 4 pounder Hotchkiss (I think). They're no more than 0.5 inch from muzzle to butt. I've tweaked the model with beefier barrels and shoulder stocks and will try again.

These are for a 1/200th scale model. So the 8" gun (the big one) is 68mm in length. I'm not sure what slicer the guy printing the items is using and I'm assuming his program allows him to add the supports. This particular part came without supports attached but it looks like there were 10 in-line running along the bottom. The 6" gun did have a number of supports attached similarly. Other pieces do seem to be adequately supported.

I just received the first batch of 3d printed parts that I designed for my current ship build. Most of the parts printed successfully, but others failed. I do NOT want my own 3d printer. That's a hobby unto itself and I have plenty of hobbies. However, I would like to know how to design *.stl files with a minimal chance of failed prints. Let's face it, since I'm not doing the printing I'm paying for someone else's time and material. I want to avoid wasting their time and my money. My process has been this: I model the parts in Wings3d (my modeling application of choice for many years), which is a subdivision modeler. Wings will export *.stl which I open in the Prusa slicer to see if the slicer catches any errors in the file. Mostly, I think *.stl is a pretty basic file format so the program used to model the part shouldn't matter too much. I don't think there's much in the *.stl that can cause problems when printing but I'm not entirely certain. Occasionally, the slicer will identify an error which I can't find in the origin model so I'll open the *.stl in Blender, and then export it again as *.stl. After that, Prusa typically will not report any errors. I have not added any supports. To me, that seems like something that would be more specific to the slicer program used in the actual printing process. Is that a correct assumption? Also, the guy who printed these for me said that something in the files had 'blown up the printer and he had to clean the tank'. I'm not sure what that means. I've used him to print purchased *.stl files and he's been pretty reliable. A number of the parts I had designed came out very foreshortened as if they had collapsed in length. Is that something that could be caused by the *.stl file? Another question I have is about warping. My understanding is that most warping is due to the curing process where the resin inside the casting cures at a different rate than the outside layers. As a modeler, is there anything I can do to alleviate this? For example, in the picture below, would the 8 inch gun--which is mostly solid--have less of a tendency to warp if it was hollow? if there was a channel running down through the center almost the entire length? The 6-pounder guns under the 8-incher suffer from being too thin in the barrels and shoulder rests. That's just me not knowing the parameters of the printer used and that lesson has been learned. But the 6-inch barrel at the bottom of the picture suffers from something else. I also had a number of ventilators that somehow seem to have shifted during printing. Is there anything in the *.stl that could cause that or is it simply an error in the slicer used to print? Any other advice for a 3d print noobie? TIA!

I've been stalling on this build waiting to see how successful the 3d printed parts would be. Well, the resin printed parts arrived yesterday and while not all were successful most of them were. Interestingly enough, the bigger parts, e.g., the primary and secondary guns all failed to print. That's probably a discussion I'll start over on the 3d print area rather than here. Still, I think the barrels are big enough that I'll be able to use the card parts for them. A lot of the small parts, like the bollards--well, there's just no way I'd be able to build them so I'm glad they came out OK in the print process. A few of the parts, like the ship's wheel, were complete failures on my part simply because I made them too thin for the printer to be able to handle. So there's a lesson for me. I'm particular pleased with the capstan, the boats, the search lights, and the anchors. Most of the ventilators came out, all the bollards, and I think most of the small arms will be usable. I really enjoyed the process of modeling these parts and want to continue down this path.

Wow! Just Wow!

Been a bit of real-life interference lately. Oh well, wha' cha gonna do? I did get the foredeck attached and the sides pieces cut. Then I decided that some of the detail parts were just too fine for my sausage fingered abilities. (Links, not patties.) So... since I've been wanting to try designing parts for 3d printing I decided this would be a good test. I started out simply 3d modeling what the paper parts would look like (like the big gun barrels, below) but I couldn't resist adding more details to the virtual parts (like the small 6-pounders, 4-pounders and Gatling gun). That, of course, leads to more research and, and, and.... Since I can't find a lot of photos from aboard the Baltimore I've based a lot of the details on equipment aboard the USS Olympia. I'm not sure the banding of the big guns is very close to the historical look. I've yet to find a good picture or schematic of what the barrels of the 8-inch primary and 6-inch secondary guns looked like. I suspect the kit supplied barrels are considerably simplified due to the nature of using rolled paper. I still need to model the anchors and there are five different sizes of ventilators to be done. I may possibly make the various boats, too. It's taken the better part of the week but I think I've got a workable work-flow as well as a reliable source for the actual 3d printing. I suppose I'll have to start calling it a 'mixed media' rather than a 'card' model, now.

Pred-Dread card models seem to be all the rage. Well, frankly, there aren't a lot of non-card pre-Dread kits available! Looking forward to watching this.

Well, what fun. Seven hours in the car, forty hours in Ohio, seven hours back home. I'm getting too old for trips like that! Anyway, over the work week I was able to start decking the Baltimore. Installed the walls for the aft cabins and what I presume are the crew heads in the bow. That all seemed pretty straight forward. I messed up the wheel pretty badly. My plan was to rough cut the wheels (which are double layered) with the handles intact, coat the whole thing with CA to firm it up and then remove the spaces from between the handles. Turns out, CA dissolves laser ink toner so I ended up with smeared graphics. Then, as I removed the spaces between the handles, the card began to de-laminate. It looked horrible so I cut the handles off. It will do, I suppose, as the wheel is not all that visible under the after deck. At this point the failings of all-picture instructions became apparent. I was trying to figure out how the gangways to the lower decks are modeled. Throughout most of the instructions sub-assemblies are numbered and then the sub-assembly number is referred to in later steps. It took me a day or two to figure out that sub-assembly 4 is what is used for the gangways. But that number "4" does not appear anywhere else in the construction pictures. But the part numbers are! Additionally, each gangway has separate part numbers so it's not blatantly obvious that they are used to create additional sub-assemblies "4". This shot of the instructions (with my annotations in red) shows the issue. I had to use a greatly magnified view of the instructions to make the connection between sub-assembly 4 and the various gangways. NOW it makes sense. The gangways are little cubes with stairs on the inside. Fiddly work... but that's card modeling for ya. Here are my steps in assembling a gangway. the next challenge will be to see if they actually fit down in the holes in the deck. Stay tuned for that.

You must be in company with Dr. Faustus and Robert Johnson to have such clean builds. Beautiful!

I use the Linux version of Converseen a lot. https://converseen.fasterland.net/

Just a quick update before heading out for a trip to visit the in-laws. Couldn't help myself now that I know I can alter the graphics a bit in Inkscape. On the right is the original deck color. On the left is my preference. Inkscape is not completely accurate when it imports the original *.pdf but it's close enough to work with.

Hi Keith, Lulu's a very quaint little vessel. But wouldn't a boiler in the place of the Model A take up most of the cargo space?

Thanks for stopping by! Skinning commences. After figuring out how to adjust the colors I reprinted the under-the-waterline hull sections. They look much more pink in the pictures than in reality. Took me a little bit of time to develop a good technique so, unfortunately, the good 'ol Baltimore has a little bit of the starving nag look. This is more prominent towards the stern where I was simply applying too much pressure when trying to get the glue set. I had planned on starting at both ends and work towards the center but I ended up simply working stern to bow. It just worked out better that way because of the way the joiner strips were laid out with the hull sections. I learned that using scissors worked better for me on curved lines than using a knife. I colored the cut edges with a red pastel and used a brush to apply the glue. Normally, I glued the skin section to the centerline keel member first and after that dried then I'd work from the keel to the waterline gluing the skin section to the joiner strips. There are a couple of seams that a bit uneven but, all in all, I'm not unhappy with it. I used a length of aluminum tubing to pre-curl the pieces. In the next picture you can see that I'm too cheap to waste 14 inch card stock and printed the bright red version on the back of the earlier printed brown. I could have just hidden the evidence and no one would have been any the wiser! It was at this point that I had my first issue. Not sure why but I ended up with a gap in one of the sections. I simply glued in some shims to support the next section. In the end you couldn't tell there was an issue. The bow also suffered from a little gap where the pieces no longer fold over the keel but are split into separate port and starboard panels. I did a little bit of tightening up and touching up with paint at this point but I'll leave the final fix until after I've installed the rest of the siding. And finally a shot with all the lower skin sections in place. Along with the scrap pile. My next step is to apply a thin coat of shellac to the skin and I'll probably do some paint touch ups to blend in the few areas where the toner has chipped away from the card.

What an interesting vignette. The dancer's red skirt really shows the movement of the dance. The shading on that is great. I did notice that the mould lines jumped out at me on these figures in the earlier pictures. Now that I've seen it I can't unsee it! Are you cleaning those up before painting? I usually just place an Exacto blade at 90 degrees to the line and run it down to scrape off the line. Though I have to admit cleaning figures is one of my least favorite modeling activities.

OK.... Thanks for the tips, everyone. One of the great things in Linux world is that you're not tightly tied to 'approved' programs. Of course, that's often balanced out by similar programs producing vastly different results. I was hoping that I'd find a program that would open the model *.pdf in *.svg format. I found several but they all seemed to have some type of issue. The first was an open source SVG editor called 'Boxy SVG'. Boxy could open the entire *.pdf and edit it successfully, but saving was incredibly slow (took 20+ minutes) and it simply would not print the file. Even when I saved the file it seemed to default to Letter size and since the original was designed for A4 that was a problem. Next up I tried both Inkscape and GIMP. GIMP converted the file to raster format which, frankly, was not what I wanted (nor did it look very good). If no other options remained, maybe workable. Inkscape simply crashed. As did LibreOffice Draw. However, I was suspicious that the crashes might be caused by the file size. So I tried opening the file in a program called PDFMod. Using PDFMod I was able to remove the pages of the PDF that I did not want to modify and re-saved it. After removing the extra pages I was able to open the file in Inkscape (and LibreOffice) and successfully alter the fill color of the lower hull sections. (There were other import settings in Inkscape that I had to tweak too--but I don't remember exactly which ones. I did have to substitute fonts since the original pdf used fonts which are not installed on my machine.) LibreOffice had issues keeping the graphical layers in the correct order but Inkscape seemed to handle everything as expected. Anyway... long story short, back to building. Original color on the left. New color on the right.

Another nice addition to your growing collection of figures. I really like the limited color palette you've used on this one. IIRC, your first figure was bought as a one-off gift for someone. Looks like it's growing into a habitual pattern of behavior!