AntonyUK

This looks like a great kit for a first build, so instead of just a narrative, I'm going to try and create a sort of revised instruction manual (instead of kit bashing, manual bashing?) for other beginners to perhaps follow if they wish. Hopefully I'll get done with the build (gulp!) and the blog will be a worthwhile effort.
 
To that end, I plopped the contents of the instruction manual PDF file (available from ModelExpo Online) into Pages and sifted out the historical notes and extra explanatory material to get just the basic build steps. I'll use that to start my amended, abbreviated, annotated, and mostly-photo-documented version of the manual. The steps are numbered to make it easier for y'all to make comments if you want (as in "Yo! Woolly!! You blew Step 22. You should have said the shearstrake ...", or "Steps 61-71 should be done before Step 47."). I can then edit the steps based on your improvement suggestions and use the Reason for Edit feature to help keep track of step versions. There seem to be around 200 individual tasks, so this could take a while... 
 
Building the Gunboat Philadelphia by Bob Crane (as told to wool132)
Building the Hull
Step 1:    (This is from the Syren user manual; seems like a good idea for the Philadelphia too): "Before removing any of the parts from the basswood sheets for the bulkheads and keel parts, sand both sides of each sheet smooth with some 320 grit sandpaper to remove the laser char."
Note to self: be careful not to erase the laser marks that are on many of the parts (e.g., bulkheads).
 
Step 2: Glue together the keel, stem, and stern post using parts 17, 18, and 19 (these are all found on sheet PA-5) using a pane of glass as a flat reference surface (see Detail 2-1 for Steps 2-6).
 
Step 3: Glue a pair of part 26 to the Stern Post and two part 18Bs to the Stem (they are on sheet PA-8).

Step 4: Carve and sand them to shape according to Detail 2-1.
 
Step 5: Carve and sand the bevels on parts 18A and 25 (PA-7).


Step 6: Glue to the keel assembly (there is a small gap between parts 18A and 18B at the stem and parts 25 and 26 at the stern).
 
Jonathan

Note: The instructions that come with the kit say to now glue parts 20, 21, and 22 to the keel. I think this should be done later. Delaying allows the use a straight edge when trying to keep the keel straight as it is glued to the bottom in Step 9 below.

Step 7: Match bottom parts 23S (PA-2) and 23P (PA-1) and apply a strip of Scotch tape to the joint. Turn over and apply a few spots of glue to the joint.

Step 8: Glue part 24 (PA-1). Clip all three parts to a piece of glass to make sure the assembly is flat while the glue dries.
 
Note: the next step also deviates from the manual. My keel was slightly bent. By gluing it to the bottom at the ends there was no place for the wood to go when I tried to center the middle of the keel on the bottom: the glued ends forced it into an S-shape because the wood wouldn't compress. A better way would be to glue the stem then the center and the stern last.

Step 9: Carefully align and center the keel. Glue it to the bottom at the stem using CA glue. Next, align the keel using a straight edge and use CA glue to fasten it at the center. Finally, glue the stern while you continue to keep the keel straight using a straight edge.

Step 10: Glue parts 20, 21, and 22 (PA-5) to the keel and to the bottom while making sure they are perpendicular to the keel. (The picture below was taken when following the kit instructions, not the revised steps above. I've included it as an example of how these parts can be kept perpendicular to the keel while the glue dries.)

Jonathan

Doing some clean up when I looked at my bench and smiled. The way things ought to be. 

Hi, Mark.
 
I, am also bashing the Harvey. I've eliminated the outhouses and made the ship a 10-gun privateer named Rebecca after my daughter. I also planked her hull with cherry and added treenails. Upon looking at your build log, I've decided to modify my windlass to resemble yours. I don't thing I'll install the barrels, though.
 
But I see you haven't posted anything since last May. Just when it was getting interesting.
 
I'm finishing my masts and spars now and have to make some decisions about rigging and whether or not to attempt sails. Are you planning to, or have you already bent sails to the yards and gaffs? If, so, are they furled or let fly? And if your spars are bare, what have you done with the bowlines and leech lines, or have you left them off?
 
Martin
 
 

Przepraszam za słaby angielski
 
Vasa DeAgostini, skala 1:65, wydanie polskie.
 
Obecnie pracuję nad etapem 50 - 55 kolekcji.
 
Kilka zdjęć z historii budowy modelu.
 
 
 


 










 

Evening, 
 
Time for a short "weather report" and a build update. 
I had to share the below 3 pics from New Years Day.
It was about -25 degrees with a wind chill around -35. It was an advanced cold!
I live in Western Central New Hampshire, about 2 minutes from Vermont. I've seen some cold in my time, but dang! That was ridiculous!
 
As brutal as it was, it sure was pretty.
These are from my back deck.
 

 

 

 
 
Anywho....
 
Time for a build update.
I finally finished planking both inner and outer bulwarks. Leaving the very front of the bow and the stern for last.
 
 

 

 
 
 
Before I start planking the bow, thought I would try my hand at a cannon.
I have built a few of the carronades already. Just needed to clear the brain with something other than planking. 
I used the laser cut carriages, some scrap strips will be used for the axels.
I'll hone these down to fit the laser cut wheels....trucks?
The cannon cleaned up easy enough. This will eventually get primed then painted. 
 

 
Using some "pseudo" decking and did a dry fit.
They seem to fit the gunports. 
I'm hoping the wheels add a little lift.
 

 

 
 
Stay warm, 
Tom E 
 
 
 

Hi Jack.
Stunning workmanship. 
Real nice progress throughout the build.
Nice attention to details and the little bit you are puttng into the ship.
 
Regards Antony.

Wednesday 10 January 2018
 
Refined the external contours of the quarter deck and the poop deck . .
Installed the planks for the poop deck. In this case I used strips of walnut as for the first planking of the foredeck. Today or at most tomorrow I will provide the second planking of the poop small deck with the same tanganika veneer. I am thinking to simulate the planks with a length of about 6-7 meters, which in a scale of 1:60 would mean 10-12cm.
 
01 Ragusian Carrack/10012018/IMG_20180110_094305.jpg

02 Ragusian Carrack/10012018/IMG_20180110_094322.jpg

03 Ragusian Carrack/10012018/IMG_20180110_094242.jpg

04 Ragusian Carrack/10012018/IMG_20180110_094255.jpg

Tuesday 9 January 2018
 
The works to install the first planking over the stern castles are now over.
Yesterday I practically finished this task.
Now I missed only a couple of finishes (ie. to trim the excess wood), and after I'll have to schedule next new activities.
I believe that, before starting the planking of the quickwork, I'll concentrate on the tasks to arrange the inside of the bulwarks (read removal of the false stanchions and reinforcement of the sides internally) and the setup of the installation of the decks, in particular the main deck.
But for now let's give a look to the work done so far.
Sincerely, Jack.Aubrey.
 
01 Ragusian Carrack/09012018/IMG_20180109_075817.jpg

02 Ragusian Carrack/09012018/IMG_20180109_075905.jpg

03 Ragusian Carrack/09012018/IMG_20180109_075924.jpg

04 Ragusian Carrack/09012018/IMG_20180109_080031.jpg

05 Ragusian Carrack/09012018/IMG_20180109_080102.jpg

Friday, December 29, 2017
 
Here in Pisa, the cold weather gave a pause of a few days and this allowed me to resume the activities related to the (carrack) hull planking . . just the time to apply a dozen strips for each side in the area above the main deck.
A new cold weather wave is expected in the coming days, so I can not guarantee any new progress soon.
 
Below a series of images to show the work done till this date.
 
Best regards and best wishes for a Happy New Year, Jack.
 
01 Ragusian Carrack/29122017/IMG_20171229_183932.jpg

02 Ragusian Carrack/29122017/IMG_20171229_183953.jpg

03 Ragusian Carrack/29122017/IMG_20171229_184007.jpg

04 Ragusian Carrack/29122017/IMG_20171229_184018.jpg

05 Ragusian Carrack/29122017/IMG_20171229_184227.jpg

06 Ragusian Carrack/29122017/IMG_20171229_184237.jpg

Gluing Up the Lifts
 
Using the station lines from the lift templates, I transferred station line numbers to the sides of the wooden stock as I traced the lift outlines to each one.  Lifts are lettered A-I on these plans.

 
The astute observer will note that this novice has already made his first serious mistake - the stern of the ship was meant to the on the left side of the mounting board, as per this page of the plans.  Ooops.  For the next one, I can reverse the lifts to orient it correctly, as you see below.  Also, I was not satisfied with the fit of lift "C" - the stern side of it has too little material, which may be due to movement during glue-up, or an incorrectly numbered station line on the back of lift.

 
 

Carving the Hull
 
On the three previous half-hulls I have made, I have essentially glued up blocks of material.  I use a bandsaw to cut the sheer, the outline as seen from the top, and side profile of the hull, and then hog out the mass of material until it gets close to the station lines.  There is far less mass of material to move here.  And what is there to remove seems to love splintering under the chisels and gouges.  There's a reason not many models are made from Douglas Fir, it appears.
 
To carve, I hold the template up to the side of the hull at the correct station line (station lines are on the back, or flat side of the hull, and pulled around to the deck on top as well).  I then use a chalk pencil to highlight which lift needs material removed.  I run up and down the stations of the hull with these marks, then carve a bit.  As the template touches more lifts, more get marked to have a bit of material removed.
 

Thank you for that special input Antony, much appreciated,
 
very interesting read, and the red sail equiped Chebec (out of the first enclosed link) I know already from the web it is showing many insperational details in the pic gallery
 
Nils

Hi Nils.
Regarding the amount of oars men.
"By the early 16th century states and navies grew and required more men. They used more and more unskilled slaves and prisoners. The Venetians designed a new system "alla senzile”: 3 to 5 men per bench, handling one large oar. Only the lead rower needed to be skilled, the others just followed his move. This allowed larger ships, but the side men were much less effective. Maximum speed dropped from some 6 to 4 Knot (more or less: a much discussed topic), as compared with 9-10 Knots maximum for ancient triremes (cf. Olympia's trials). The "senzile" system was soon adopted by all Mediterranean nations, and older galleys were reequipped that way."
 
This is from http://www.cogandgalley.com/2009/02/16th-to-18th-century-chebec.html
this is the only article I know off.
 
Regards Antony.
 

Hi Nils.
I will let you know what the plans look like and the quality when they arrive.
Such a nice boat its a shame not to build it.
Regards Antony.
 

Hi Nils.
I have to ask a question... Can one man use a oar that size ??. Two people  ?
The oar hole in the bulwark should be big enough to get the blade through.
 
Thanks for the Junk link.
Very nice pictures and information. Love this style of boat. Has a lot of character.
Have you ordered any plans yet ?? from this site ? http://www.modelbouwtekeningen.nl/nvm-1000032-hainan-handelsjonk.html  Are they trustworthy ??
Never used this site before.  £66.14 (75 EUR)  is quite expensive for a set of plans.
 
Regards Antony.
 
 

Hi Nils.
Yes it is BUT you are putting so much more into your version that makes so  interesting to follow along.
Waiting on your next update.
 
Regards Antony.
 

Good morning Nils.
Just stunning. 
All these little bits you are finding are just amazing and gives the Algier a look of it's own.
 
Regards Antony.
 

Hi Nils.
Regarding the amount of oars men.
"By the early 16th century states and navies grew and required more men. They used more and more unskilled slaves and prisoners. The Venetians designed a new system "alla senzile”: 3 to 5 men per bench, handling one large oar. Only the lead rower needed to be skilled, the others just followed his move. This allowed larger ships, but the side men were much less effective. Maximum speed dropped from some 6 to 4 Knot (more or less: a much discussed topic), as compared with 9-10 Knots maximum for ancient triremes (cf. Olympia's trials). The "senzile" system was soon adopted by all Mediterranean nations, and older galleys were reequipped that way."
 
This is from http://www.cogandgalley.com/2009/02/16th-to-18th-century-chebec.html
this is the only article I know off.
 
Regards Antony.
 

Hi Antony,
 
Thanks very much, I`m also very curious already, and will be looking forward to your comments on the plan set in due time....
 
Nils

Hi Nils.
I will let you know what the plans look like and the quality when they arrive.
Such a nice boat its a shame not to build it.
Regards Antony.
 

Update :...
 
made a trial 143 mm long (upfront) 1:48 sweep from bamboo wood, in order to determine size and length as well as position in the bulwark, where all the oar ports meanwhile had been cut into...
 
Nils
there are 9 sweep ports on each side...
 

the pivot point is the bulwark itself, whereby the inside rail supports for hight and angle, when the blade is submerged

 

hight of the tin figure is 35 mm
 

its all from one piece of bamboo rod
 

the thin black serving line coil protects the pivot bearing point in the bulwark...
 

Its beautyfull.
Christos

Hi Antony,
 
The oarholes in the bulwark are large enough to slip the blade through, but unfortunately I ca`nt tell if perhaps two men were necessary to operate the sweep...
the sweep is a bit counter balanced by the solid square section part. Would appreciate if anyone of the fellow builders would be able to answer that more precisely...
 
For building the junk I have`nt ordered from that source yet. I presume that they are trustworthy, have`nt found anything negative about that site to date. Yes, the price is quite an investion to face, but I hope its worth it, as I found no such alternative yet....
 
Nils

Hi Nils.
I have to ask a question... Can one man use a oar that size ??. Two people  ?
The oar hole in the bulwark should be big enough to get the blade through.
 
Thanks for the Junk link.
Very nice pictures and information. Love this style of boat. Has a lot of character.
Have you ordered any plans yet ?? from this site ? http://www.modelbouwtekeningen.nl/nvm-1000032-hainan-handelsjonk.html  Are they trustworthy ??
Never used this site before.  £66.14 (75 EUR)  is quite expensive for a set of plans.
 
Regards Antony.