6ohiocav

ANCHORS AWAY….
Worked over the weekend rigging and attaching my anchors. I decided to bring the anchor cables through my forward hatch, and to do that, I had to so some surgery on the grate. The grating material supplied by Model Expo is a hardwood.  Trying to cut through that while placed on the bow of a crowded deck was a challenge. My exacto knife was not up to the call, so out came the Dremel. My original plan was to carve out a square in the front corners and insert a chafing block. While I was able to white knuckle the cutting, I could not get it square or clean enough to suit my taste, and decided to install the chafing blocks on top of the cut.
Obviously, this is another task that I should have done sooner. I could have easily added chafing blocks to the grates before installing them.
I also stropped the big triple blocks, and fabricated a hook with some coated black wire. The coating on the wire gives the surface some texture to simulate an iron look. It took me a while and about 10 tries to twist up a hook to look right.
I then rigged the block, and attached the anchor.  I ran into another snag. Realizing the anchor and cable weigh tons, I could not get the cable to lay flat on the deck, or get my lanyards on my triple blocks to tighten. The Brittania anchors just don’t weigh enough.  I therefore glued the cable to the deck. I stretched the lanyards on the triple blocks by attaching a small weight, and coated the ropes with a mixture of water and white glue. That froze the ropes straight.
I then tied off the haul ropes on a bulwark cleat and tied off the lanyards on pins.
My bow is just about complete.

Getting a little tired of trying to figure out how to load the photos in the right order. All of the remaining photos kept loading in reverse order.
 
Come on guys, I spend more time trying to figure out how to post photos of the things I build than the time I spend actually building the darn things.

ANCHORS AWAY….
Worked over the weekend rigging and attaching my anchors. I decided to bring the anchor cables through my forward hatch, and to do that, I had to so some surgery on the grate. The grating material supplied by Model Expo is a hardwood.  Trying to cut through that while placed on the bow of a crowded deck was a challenge. My exacto knife was not up to the call, so out came the Dremel. My original plan was to carve out a square in the front corners and insert a chafing block. While I was able to white knuckle the cutting, I could not get it square or clean enough to suit my taste, and decided to install the chafing blocks on top of the cut.
Obviously, this is another task that I should have done sooner. I could have easily added chafing blocks to the grates before installing them.
I also stropped the big triple blocks, and fabricated a hook with some coated black wire. The coating on the wire gives the surface some texture to simulate an iron look. It took me a while and about 10 tries to twist up a hook to look right.
I then rigged the block, and attached the anchor.  I ran into another snag. Realizing the anchor and cable weigh tons, I could not get the cable to lay flat on the deck, or get my lanyards on my triple blocks to tighten. The Brittania anchors just don’t weigh enough.  I therefore glued the cable to the deck. I stretched the lanyards on the triple blocks by attaching a small weight, and coated the ropes with a mixture of water and white glue. That froze the ropes straight.
I then tied off the haul ropes on a bulwark cleat and tied off the lanyards on pins.
My bow is just about complete.

ANCHORS AWAY….
Worked over the weekend rigging and attaching my anchors. I decided to bring the anchor cables through my forward hatch, and to do that, I had to so some surgery on the grate. The grating material supplied by Model Expo is a hardwood.  Trying to cut through that while placed on the bow of a crowded deck was a challenge. My exacto knife was not up to the call, so out came the Dremel. My original plan was to carve out a square in the front corners and insert a chafing block. While I was able to white knuckle the cutting, I could not get it square or clean enough to suit my taste, and decided to install the chafing blocks on top of the cut.
Obviously, this is another task that I should have done sooner. I could have easily added chafing blocks to the grates before installing them.
I also stropped the big triple blocks, and fabricated a hook with some coated black wire. The coating on the wire gives the surface some texture to simulate an iron look. It took me a while and about 10 tries to twist up a hook to look right.
I then rigged the block, and attached the anchor.  I ran into another snag. Realizing the anchor and cable weigh tons, I could not get the cable to lay flat on the deck, or get my lanyards on my triple blocks to tighten. The Brittania anchors just don’t weigh enough.  I therefore glued the cable to the deck. I stretched the lanyards on the triple blocks by attaching a small weight, and coated the ropes with a mixture of water and white glue. That froze the ropes straight.
I then tied off the haul ropes on a bulwark cleat and tied off the lanyards on pins.
My bow is just about complete.

John
Following up on JCFrankie's suggestion, while you are at the jewelry making supplier, pick up a pair of rounded pliers. I use a dull black steel wire and with the pliers, can twist out a slew of perfectly round eyebolts in quick order. The ends of the pliers are much smaller than the photo suggests.
 
Good luck.

MAIN MAST UPPER SHROUDS, STAYS, COURSE LIFTS AND SPANKER MAST
 
I tied the upper shrouds and stays for the main mast.  I also created the course lift blocks that slip over the mast cap. I did this BEFORE I attached the cap – much easier to create this on the vice and slip over the cap.
 
I also worked on the spanker mast.  This is a dowel supplied by the kit.  I stained it with cherry stain and had to straighten it (best I could). I attached the bracket to the mast, and created the deck cradle.  I also had to insert a square piece of cherry in the top to attach it to.  Make sure that you leave a little of the mast exposed above the tops to accept the Spanker Gaff Cradle assembly, made with two blocks that hang over the end.
 
Here are the photos.

John
Following up on JCFrankie's suggestion, while you are at the jewelry making supplier, pick up a pair of rounded pliers. I use a dull black steel wire and with the pliers, can twist out a slew of perfectly round eyebolts in quick order. The ends of the pliers are much smaller than the photo suggests.
 
Good luck.

Ron,
I think an upgrade of the Brittainia Stocks for the anchors is worth the effort. I am a terrible painter, and trying to paint the metal to look like wood would be a lost cause before I ever started.
 
Steve,
Thanks for the heads up on your log. I actually was following it when it had its Niagara title.  I will note your change, and applaud you for taking on the Lawrence.
 
AND.... Mark, Thanks for stopping in and your comments on my anchors. I took a look on the tips you forwarded on posting pictures. In my humble opinion, the process suggested is more complicated than trying to figure out how to seize a bracing block to a forward upper shroud while manipulating through a royal backstay, top gallant backstay, and topmast backstays. The Craftsmen on this forum do incredible things, and overcome insurmountable challenges. I would think that the software guys can count to twelve, in the proper order.

ANCHORS AWAY….
Worked over the weekend rigging and attaching my anchors. I decided to bring the anchor cables through my forward hatch, and to do that, I had to so some surgery on the grate. The grating material supplied by Model Expo is a hardwood.  Trying to cut through that while placed on the bow of a crowded deck was a challenge. My exacto knife was not up to the call, so out came the Dremel. My original plan was to carve out a square in the front corners and insert a chafing block. While I was able to white knuckle the cutting, I could not get it square or clean enough to suit my taste, and decided to install the chafing blocks on top of the cut.
Obviously, this is another task that I should have done sooner. I could have easily added chafing blocks to the grates before installing them.
I also stropped the big triple blocks, and fabricated a hook with some coated black wire. The coating on the wire gives the surface some texture to simulate an iron look. It took me a while and about 10 tries to twist up a hook to look right.
I then rigged the block, and attached the anchor.  I ran into another snag. Realizing the anchor and cable weigh tons, I could not get the cable to lay flat on the deck, or get my lanyards on my triple blocks to tighten. The Brittania anchors just don’t weigh enough.  I therefore glued the cable to the deck. I stretched the lanyards on the triple blocks by attaching a small weight, and coated the ropes with a mixture of water and white glue. That froze the ropes straight.
I then tied off the haul ropes on a bulwark cleat and tied off the lanyards on pins.
My bow is just about complete.

ANCHORS AWAY….
Worked over the weekend rigging and attaching my anchors. I decided to bring the anchor cables through my forward hatch, and to do that, I had to so some surgery on the grate. The grating material supplied by Model Expo is a hardwood.  Trying to cut through that while placed on the bow of a crowded deck was a challenge. My exacto knife was not up to the call, so out came the Dremel. My original plan was to carve out a square in the front corners and insert a chafing block. While I was able to white knuckle the cutting, I could not get it square or clean enough to suit my taste, and decided to install the chafing blocks on top of the cut.
Obviously, this is another task that I should have done sooner. I could have easily added chafing blocks to the grates before installing them.
I also stropped the big triple blocks, and fabricated a hook with some coated black wire. The coating on the wire gives the surface some texture to simulate an iron look. It took me a while and about 10 tries to twist up a hook to look right.
I then rigged the block, and attached the anchor.  I ran into another snag. Realizing the anchor and cable weigh tons, I could not get the cable to lay flat on the deck, or get my lanyards on my triple blocks to tighten. The Brittania anchors just don’t weigh enough.  I therefore glued the cable to the deck. I stretched the lanyards on the triple blocks by attaching a small weight, and coated the ropes with a mixture of water and white glue. That froze the ropes straight.
I then tied off the haul ropes on a bulwark cleat and tied off the lanyards on pins.
My bow is just about complete.

FOREMAST MAIN STAY AND PREVENTER STAY
 
I served .045 rope for the main and .035 rope for the preventer stays.
 
I then measured them for length, and clamped in a closed heart.  I purchased 7mm closed hearts from Chuck and Syren. Great product again. After some assembly, I gave them a coat of cherry stain and finished with tung oil.
 
I was able to position my portable vice with a spring clamp close enough to insert the heart for lashing. The heavy served stay ropes were pretty stiff, so the whipping was a bit challenging. I weaved a section of .018 tan rope for the lanyard.
 
Once done, I threaded the lanyard and tied it off on the upper lashing of the heart. It turned out pretty good.

Tom
 
Great looking blocks. By now, I have stropped so many blocks, it is almost second nature, but like you, my first blocks were for the guns with hooks.  And yes, it took me all day just to figure out how to do my first one.... Yes, there are 170 more waiting for you. Good training for the future.  I have to make an omission too. I stropped 170 single blocks with hooks before I realized that I need to add a lanyard to each one. I had to strip them down and redo each one. I also blackened by hooks.
 
Check your plans. I believe the single block you stropped needs a lanyard attached opposite the hook. The single hooks to the bulwark. The lanyard runs back through the double block at the gun, back to the single block and back to the double. I think. I am not at my shipyard and relying on a memory that is not as good as it used to be. 
 
Everything is looking good.  If you ever run into a jam, feel free to send my a private e-mail.

John
Following up on JCFrankie's suggestion, while you are at the jewelry making supplier, pick up a pair of rounded pliers. I use a dull black steel wire and with the pliers, can twist out a slew of perfectly round eyebolts in quick order. The ends of the pliers are much smaller than the photo suggests.
 
Good luck.

John
Following up on JCFrankie's suggestion, while you are at the jewelry making supplier, pick up a pair of rounded pliers. I use a dull black steel wire and with the pliers, can twist out a slew of perfectly round eyebolts in quick order. The ends of the pliers are much smaller than the photo suggests.
 
Good luck.

ANCHORS AWAY….
Worked over the weekend rigging and attaching my anchors. I decided to bring the anchor cables through my forward hatch, and to do that, I had to so some surgery on the grate. The grating material supplied by Model Expo is a hardwood.  Trying to cut through that while placed on the bow of a crowded deck was a challenge. My exacto knife was not up to the call, so out came the Dremel. My original plan was to carve out a square in the front corners and insert a chafing block. While I was able to white knuckle the cutting, I could not get it square or clean enough to suit my taste, and decided to install the chafing blocks on top of the cut.
Obviously, this is another task that I should have done sooner. I could have easily added chafing blocks to the grates before installing them.
I also stropped the big triple blocks, and fabricated a hook with some coated black wire. The coating on the wire gives the surface some texture to simulate an iron look. It took me a while and about 10 tries to twist up a hook to look right.
I then rigged the block, and attached the anchor.  I ran into another snag. Realizing the anchor and cable weigh tons, I could not get the cable to lay flat on the deck, or get my lanyards on my triple blocks to tighten. The Brittania anchors just don’t weigh enough.  I therefore glued the cable to the deck. I stretched the lanyards on the triple blocks by attaching a small weight, and coated the ropes with a mixture of water and white glue. That froze the ropes straight.
I then tied off the haul ropes on a bulwark cleat and tied off the lanyards on pins.
My bow is just about complete.

ANCHORS AWAY….
Worked over the weekend rigging and attaching my anchors. I decided to bring the anchor cables through my forward hatch, and to do that, I had to so some surgery on the grate. The grating material supplied by Model Expo is a hardwood.  Trying to cut through that while placed on the bow of a crowded deck was a challenge. My exacto knife was not up to the call, so out came the Dremel. My original plan was to carve out a square in the front corners and insert a chafing block. While I was able to white knuckle the cutting, I could not get it square or clean enough to suit my taste, and decided to install the chafing blocks on top of the cut.
Obviously, this is another task that I should have done sooner. I could have easily added chafing blocks to the grates before installing them.
I also stropped the big triple blocks, and fabricated a hook with some coated black wire. The coating on the wire gives the surface some texture to simulate an iron look. It took me a while and about 10 tries to twist up a hook to look right.
I then rigged the block, and attached the anchor.  I ran into another snag. Realizing the anchor and cable weigh tons, I could not get the cable to lay flat on the deck, or get my lanyards on my triple blocks to tighten. The Brittania anchors just don’t weigh enough.  I therefore glued the cable to the deck. I stretched the lanyards on the triple blocks by attaching a small weight, and coated the ropes with a mixture of water and white glue. That froze the ropes straight.
I then tied off the haul ropes on a bulwark cleat and tied off the lanyards on pins.
My bow is just about complete.

ANCHORS AWAY….
Worked over the weekend rigging and attaching my anchors. I decided to bring the anchor cables through my forward hatch, and to do that, I had to so some surgery on the grate. The grating material supplied by Model Expo is a hardwood.  Trying to cut through that while placed on the bow of a crowded deck was a challenge. My exacto knife was not up to the call, so out came the Dremel. My original plan was to carve out a square in the front corners and insert a chafing block. While I was able to white knuckle the cutting, I could not get it square or clean enough to suit my taste, and decided to install the chafing blocks on top of the cut.
Obviously, this is another task that I should have done sooner. I could have easily added chafing blocks to the grates before installing them.
I also stropped the big triple blocks, and fabricated a hook with some coated black wire. The coating on the wire gives the surface some texture to simulate an iron look. It took me a while and about 10 tries to twist up a hook to look right.
I then rigged the block, and attached the anchor.  I ran into another snag. Realizing the anchor and cable weigh tons, I could not get the cable to lay flat on the deck, or get my lanyards on my triple blocks to tighten. The Brittania anchors just don’t weigh enough.  I therefore glued the cable to the deck. I stretched the lanyards on the triple blocks by attaching a small weight, and coated the ropes with a mixture of water and white glue. That froze the ropes straight.
I then tied off the haul ropes on a bulwark cleat and tied off the lanyards on pins.
My bow is just about complete.

Steve,
 
Hijacking the site, Not at all. I love the painting of the Battle of Lake Erie and the images of the Lawrence.  When Commodore Perry is done with her, Capt. Eliot is ready to turn my Niagara over to you! Now that's a real hijacking.
 
In the end, I left one of the skylights off for the simple reason that the guns clearly were too crowded. I can place the two buildings around the capstan such that they aren't in the recoil line of the carronades. It looks much better.
 
I always wondered about a ship's wheel. Steering this large Brig with a tiller seems a bit off, although I note that the replica is rigged with one.
 
Is your Lawrence scratch built, of built on a Model Shipways Niagara hull? It's fantastic.
 
 

Getting a little tired of trying to figure out how to load the photos in the right order. All of the remaining photos kept loading in reverse order.
 
Come on guys, I spend more time trying to figure out how to post photos of the things I build than the time I spend actually building the darn things.

BOWER ANCHORS
Time to work on the anchors. I created the stocks out of cherry. Not an easy task.  There are tapers on three sides.  I traced a rough pattern from the plans, did a rough cut on the band saw, and finished them off on the disc sander.
I then rigged the Anchor Ropes. I used a photo of the actual ship for the pattern on the lines.
I wrapped .018 brown rope around the Anchor rings.  That was a tedious process. I ran one end into the anchor mortice, and then inserted the ring (made out of .20 metal wire) to secure one end. Then with two tweezers, began the wrapping.  I tied it off at the end and froze it with a spot of CA.
I will work on attaching the anchors this weekend. I need to construct chaffing blocks on both sides of the holes I drilled in the hull for the anchor line, and open up the front corners of the grates on my forward hatch. That means delicate destruction work on the ship again. UGHH.
Here are some photos of the anchor assembly.

Steve,
 
Hijacking the site, Not at all. I love the painting of the Battle of Lake Erie and the images of the Lawrence.  When Commodore Perry is done with her, Capt. Eliot is ready to turn my Niagara over to you! Now that's a real hijacking.
 
In the end, I left one of the skylights off for the simple reason that the guns clearly were too crowded. I can place the two buildings around the capstan such that they aren't in the recoil line of the carronades. It looks much better.
 
I always wondered about a ship's wheel. Steering this large Brig with a tiller seems a bit off, although I note that the replica is rigged with one.
 
Is your Lawrence scratch built, of built on a Model Shipways Niagara hull? It's fantastic.
 
 

Getting a little tired of trying to figure out how to load the photos in the right order. All of the remaining photos kept loading in reverse order.
 
Come on guys, I spend more time trying to figure out how to post photos of the things I build than the time I spend actually building the darn things.

BOWER ANCHORS
Time to work on the anchors. I created the stocks out of cherry. Not an easy task.  There are tapers on three sides.  I traced a rough pattern from the plans, did a rough cut on the band saw, and finished them off on the disc sander.
I then rigged the Anchor Ropes. I used a photo of the actual ship for the pattern on the lines.
I wrapped .018 brown rope around the Anchor rings.  That was a tedious process. I ran one end into the anchor mortice, and then inserted the ring (made out of .20 metal wire) to secure one end. Then with two tweezers, began the wrapping.  I tied it off at the end and froze it with a spot of CA.
I will work on attaching the anchors this weekend. I need to construct chaffing blocks on both sides of the holes I drilled in the hull for the anchor line, and open up the front corners of the grates on my forward hatch. That means delicate destruction work on the ship again. UGHH.
Here are some photos of the anchor assembly.

Getting a little tired of trying to figure out how to load the photos in the right order. All of the remaining photos kept loading in reverse order.
 
Come on guys, I spend more time trying to figure out how to post photos of the things I build than the time I spend actually building the darn things.

BOWER ANCHORS
Time to work on the anchors. I created the stocks out of cherry. Not an easy task.  There are tapers on three sides.  I traced a rough pattern from the plans, did a rough cut on the band saw, and finished them off on the disc sander.
I then rigged the Anchor Ropes. I used a photo of the actual ship for the pattern on the lines.
I wrapped .018 brown rope around the Anchor rings.  That was a tedious process. I ran one end into the anchor mortice, and then inserted the ring (made out of .20 metal wire) to secure one end. Then with two tweezers, began the wrapping.  I tied it off at the end and froze it with a spot of CA.
I will work on attaching the anchors this weekend. I need to construct chaffing blocks on both sides of the holes I drilled in the hull for the anchor line, and open up the front corners of the grates on my forward hatch. That means delicate destruction work on the ship again. UGHH.
Here are some photos of the anchor assembly.