Jump to content
New Publication - Ship Modeler's Handbook - They're back in stock! Thank you for your patience. ×

Overworked724

NRG Member
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    1,250

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Overworked724

  1. Overworked724
    What's the next boat???
  2. Overworked724
    Hmmmm. When I put it on the actual transom...obvious it needs a second attempt. 😒
  3. Overworked724
    Thanks, Russ! Looks promising. Looks can be deceiving though. 😳 No fear! Moving on....
  4. Overworked724
    Today was 'cap rail' day in the shipyard. One thing which I was dreading was trying to create and attach the cap rails for the bow and the transom. The bow cap rail was easy enough. But once again, the transom cap rail involved some thinking as Chuck's awesome practicum assumes you know a bit about planking and/or woodworking...I am still learning! So...how to get that severe bend around the transom, while also adjusting for the curvature of the stern at the same time. A plank bender coupled with force bending -- I see many hospital bills in my future. So...how is the transom cap rail any different than planking a ship? So...since wood wants to go where it goes, I 'prefit' the plank by using an index card to check the fit. Then scroll saw...wet the plank...plank bender...and wrap around one of my transom attempts as a molding jig. 😊 We we shall see. But the current results are promising.
  5. Overworked724
    Thanks Russ. They are very tiny. Hard to get the right scale. Proof is always in the pudding. But they look fairly decent. 😁
  6. Overworked724
    The volutes are difficult. Following Chuck's example, I'm trying Sculpy. I am not a sculptor but his practicum made it look easy. Not. After trial is land error, finally got a system to produce some half decent volutes. Toothpicks are amazing tools.
  7. Overworked724
    Well, I have actually made a few transoms...and realized I could still attempt the walnut with a different technique. Had to be very careful and drill out the perimeters of the Windows...then slowly carve them out. Glued the basswood window section together to give it strength after bending. Have a plan to attach thectransom and include windows in a different manner than Chucks method. We we shall see. Looks nice off the ship...fingers crossed.
  8. Overworked724
    Could not resist using the walnut on the transom. A little tung oil...and the grain really pops. It may be a mistake, but what the heck....
  9. Overworked724
    Interesting tidbit of information. My wife is Japanese...and she was raised in the southern most part of the main province of Kyushu in a town called Kagoshima. There is an active volcano there called Sakurajima. It's a conical volcano, and erupts 2-3 times per day. Now...how does this have anything to do with my ship model? Well - the solid hull which came from Model Shipways was not a single piece. It was two pieces glued together...and the wood was not perfect...it had a knot...which I have been staring at on the surface of the main deck since I started this journey. Well, the other day, my wife was excited to find the knot looks like Sakurajima! Quite a nice little omen... Pics below...haha. Life is funny.
  10. Overworked724
    Decision to redo painting of bulwarks after some additional filler/sanding was a good one. Much nicer result. Currently working on the rudder, transom and planning the deck planking. Moving on....
  11. Overworked724
    Well, here is the best I can do. Deck looks and feels even. This is a crap ton better than before. Amazing how the human eye can see the difference of 1 mm when looking at symmetrical (supposedly) object. Our brains seem to magnify the perceived asymmetry. 1 mm. Sigh.
  12. Overworked724
    As promised. Pics of face plates for the steps (basswood) as well as my doctoring of the forecastle depression on the port side. Ugly but it will do the job. Now on my second and last round of sanding. Will update this post with final woodfilled product! Also... a couple pics of how I will make tree nails for the deck planking.
  13. Overworked724
    Quick update (pics to follow this evening); First – Thanks Russ. I considered and reviewed some forums and decided to go with basswood. Also, changed to basswood veneers for the steps on the fcstl/quarter deck to adjust for the wood which I mistakenly trimmed off. I put those in last night and discovered I had accidentally sanded a bit too much off the port side of the forecastle. Crapola…I christen thee the HMS Assymetry… Second – After adding in the veneers and shaping them to the level of the deck, I can see the lopsided effect of the sanding mistake I made when I was truing (or ‘overtruing’) the hull and deck of the forecastle. With the planking and bulwarks on, this make adjustment by sanding on the starboard side to even the deck a nonstarter. So…if I too too much off, I can put some back on. In this case, the amount I overtrimmed off is roughly 1/32…(a bit more actually). So I have trimmed out a small section of basswood sheeting which I can use to even the deck, and then smooth it out with filler. The final result, once the deck planking is in, should look better than the lopsided view I have now. This is the ONLY thing I can think of…simply slapping on woodfiller and hoping for an even result is a non-starter too – I am not that good at eyeballing. Third – Did not like the initial attempt at painting the bulwarks. The gaps in the planking on the bulwarks stood out like a sore thumb. So wood filler in/sanded for another attempt. Painting the bulwarks and steps will take place after I have put in the filler around the veneers and the forecastle true up area on the port side. …The correction of my mistakes on this kit is keeping me humble, yet oddly focused. The Sultana is actually a lot more challenging that the Lady Nelson so far. Wondering why in the heck I switched kits. But, I have momentum now, and will press on. Pics to be posted later…
  14. Overworked724
    Hi Russ Good feedback! Ok. I'm not crazy. Love the look of walnut but believe you are right. Stuff fragments so easily. The basswood I have. The grain and texture is as you say. Easier to work but doesn't take on an even look when stained. The thinness makes it difficult as well since the stain or paint tends to bleed across and through the sheet. It is easier to cut though. I guess I am needing to rethink the wood step veneers then as well. If I go with basswood it makes my life a bit simpler.
  15. Overworked724
    Thanks Russ! Walnut sheeting tends to be much harder (1/32) and I was surprise how difficult it was to cut. I will try your technique!
  16. Overworked724
    Update - the pics above show my first couple of passes as the bulwark painting. Upon review, I should have used wood filler along the inner bulwarks to clean up the surface before painting. So, my frustration at the unclean got the better of me and I filled in and sanded down. Will plan to repaint the inner bulwarks tonight. I was so satisfied with my "git 'er dun" attitude, that I decided I would keep the momentum and clean my workbench (my wife was very happy). Sadly, when doing this, I threww away the walnut veneers I made for the step fronts to the forecastle and quarter decks. <grumble> At least it looks nice.
  17. Overworked724
    General question for anyone reading: How do you accurately (and safely) cut thin wood? The problem I seem to have is that the thin wood sheets are so thin that they splinter along the edge when using the scroll saw. They seem too hard to cut using a simple exacto knife. How do other do this? It would help me remake the transom layers.
  18. Overworked724
    Hi Elijah Pic above is the transom layer bone dry. So now I'm rethinking how to make the transom. Chuck's practicum gives a great idea, but now I know how to get the right curvature, thinking to redo the layers in walnut. Decisions decisions!!!
  19. Overworked724
    Answer: A few wooden stir sticks from Starbucks (use to keep clamps from bruising the wood), some spring clamps, and a 1qt cooking pot with flat sides. Wet wood, clamp, have a beer. Wake up to perfect prebent transom sections. Never underestimate the tools available in your own kitchen! (My wife is a genius...)
  20. Overworked724
    There's always something with this kit. It's like a continual stream of problems that need to be solved. I to plan the transom now, but the curvature of the stern prevent an easy approach to future gluing/placement. Additionally, the plans require some modification as my bulkheads are a bit higher and my stern curvature might be slightly deeper than the plans. I could try a plank bender but the 1/32 boxwood sheeting I am using to make it is to flimsy, and the grain is to thick...it would snap if I tried. Trying to put this on without prebending simply is not a option. Problem: How do I prepare my transom to meet the curvature of the stern without making a curved jig to prebend the wood.. Some things just aren't captured in Chuck's totally awesome practicum!! Answer: will surprise you...and will be covered in the next post! But it works like a charm and is EASY.
  21. Overworked724
    Fukui-san Sugoi kire! Gambatte! Yoroshiku onegaishimasu! (That's all the japanese I know! LOL) Beautiful work! Pat
  22. Overworked724
    Moving on into treacherous water. Forgot to drill the bob-stay and gammoning hole in stem (mostly because I was pretty sure I was going to have problems getting it on.
  23. Overworked724
    Well...took the plunge. Carved down the stem to fit the figurehead (which gave me a heart attack). The figurehead fits nicely now, and I prefer the positioning and shape now since the wood of the stem won't wrap under it to the front. Leaving the figurehead fully exposed. A feature I like! So perhaps a blessing in disguise to carve it in a way that makes me happy. =-) Also painted the hull. 4 coats of paint with sanding in between. A small pot of Tamiya (flat white) with 10 drops of Tamiya Desert Yelliw to soften it a bit. Pure white is ghastly, and the softer off white tinge gives it a more pleasing look (at least to me). The recommended tallow color was hard to match, but I really prefer how it ended up. My Airbrush technique is awful, but it did the job. Sanding between with increasing fine sandpaper/pads took the matte finish away. Surprisingly it ended up with a nice finish with sanding alone. Win! Moving on... (Noted that my stern piece is a bit wide...but I'm just going to adjust at this point as I can't bring myself to carve it down now...).
  24. Overworked724
    I think you did a marvelous job! This is my 'work in progress ship'. And I had some difficulties on the first layer of planking. But you did wonderfully! Something to be proud of!!!
  25. Overworked724
    Already got it reshape and pre-fit. Pics to come later! (Sweat bullets during the 'stem surgery'!) Moving on... Also: Lesson Learned #2: Do NOT start painting until you have a smooth hull. That means wood filler/polyurethane/sanding sealer....choose your poison. I thought I had sanded enough...the hull felt like a baby's bum...nope. Not even close. Next time....sanding sealant before I start painting. =-( Crapola.

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

Model Ship World ® and the MSW logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,929,264 & No. 6,929,274, registered Dec. 20, 2022)

Helpful Links

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem ®

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

Nautical Research Guild ® and the NRG logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,999,236 & No. 6,999,237, registered March 14, 2023)

×
×
  • Create New...