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Overworked724

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Everything posted by Overworked724

  1. Overworked724
    Lesson learned: Check figurehead placement and fit before gluing on the stem. Crap. Need to reshape and carve down to get it fit without snapping/breaking/etc. the glued on stem For every single thing I do right - I seem to do 2 things wrong. But...I will overcome...I actually made 2 stems just in case!
  2. Overworked724
    Got the stem, keel and stern post on. The fact wood filler exists keeps me from freaking out. The point where stern post and keel meet was really over sanded. Could drive a truck through that gap. Wood filler (mixed with a bit of water...stored in a salad dressing disposable container for freshness) did the trick. If I could count how many pounds of sawdust I have inhaled by now... Moving on. Hull is looking fairly decent. (After 1000 mistakes...amazed). Pat
  3. Overworked724
    Hey Tigersteve My drill press is a cheapie from Micromark. Microlight Made in Japan. Good for the job! Best Pat
  4. Overworked724
    Thank you, sir! In all honesty, there was simply no other accurate way to get to needed alignment and angles without rigging up something. Interested to hear how others accomplish this task!
  5. Overworked724
    So....decided to mark deck furniture and drill mast holes. Mast holes are not adequately covered in Chuck's practicum nor in the Model Sjipways directions. Specifically - what is the respective rake angles of the fore and main mast? The MS plans measure 7.5 and 8.5 degrees from vertical for the fore and main mast respectively. But...the original plans appear to have rakes of 4.5 and 6.5 degrees. Ok...executive decision...will go with her majesty's plans. Problem: How to drill the right angle with a drill press. Answer: Made my own trigonometry jig to flesh out the correct angle using my stubbornly vertical drill press. There has GOT to be an easier way. But the proof is in the pudding. The angles and alignment came out perfectly.
  6. Overworked724
    Hazards of working with a Dremel. Sigh. Trying to carve out stairway and slipped...my Dremel carving bit went for a ride across the deck. So...carved down using exacto blades until I was about 1/4 inch down. Nice ledge to act as a bumper for Mr Slippy Hands.
  7. Overworked724
    Hi Elijah Thanks for the compliment! Alas, I am a newbie. The only ship content I know is what I read from chuck's practicum and the variety of websites/articles/books I occasionaly skim as I creep my way through my first wooden model ship! My current profession is a global project manager for a pharma company. My past life is in science (I majored in chemistry in both undergraduate and graduate school) - long time ago. Also, the planking is scribed sheets. But I think they won't look as good as individual planking, so I have decided to go with my own planking and have got basswood strips (~2-3mm width) slightly thinner than the deck planking which I plan to use. And I have learned from my mistakes....I will 'pre stain' them! I am slow moving on this model - mostly out of fear. But I find myself becoming a bit more confident to 'overcome' my mistakes. My model might look nice - but it rrepresents 1000 mistakes! It will be amazing if I can get to the finish line. So...I will try to be honest about keeping this log! Wish me luck... Best Pat
  8. Overworked724
    Here is a pic of my rough step forecastle and quarter deck step veneers. Wonder if this will work as good as I hope.
  9. Overworked724
    Well - a couple of problems. 1. Keel sanding - where it meets stem is 'rounded' as you see in the pics. Not my fault in this case and the uncarved hull came this way from ShipWays. Will do my best to address with filler, but not exactly skilled as a putty master. I could shave the stern and put in a filler bock - then reshape the hull to obtain a nice sharp corner, but not entirely certain I wouldn't screw other things up (i.e. over sand the keel as I shaped the stern). Thinking safety here...try wood filler first then Plan B is adding wood and shaping. 2. Deck shaping/Bulwark removal - when I was following Chuck's practicum, I overshaved both the bow/stern 'steps' to the forecastle/quarter deck. Crap. (I christen thee...the USS WhatInTheHellDidIJustDo) So...as 'wood is forgiving', I will fill it in with wood. But what wood? Since I have only overshaved by approximately 2-3mm on both sides, I can simply 'add' a veneer on both sides and shape appropriately. So, this is where I will veer off script a bit and do my own thing – because it is my model! Instead of basswood or balsa veneer – which would simply be painted, I am thinking to use a veneer of dark walnut. This would allow a visual break in viewing the painted inner bulwarks. I think it might be a pleasant modification if I also stain the wood to help it blend better with the amber color of the bulwark paint. Note – I have not yet mixed the bulwark paint, and there is no way I am using flat red – too bright and garish. So an darker rust or amber color would be less gaudy, and more easy on the eye. Not trying for historical accuracy – I’m trying to enjoy myself and make a nice looking model! (Also, my wife said she didn’t like the red painted bulwarks in Chuck’s practicum – so her request and only input is to choose a different shade of bulwark red. =-) 3. Cap rails - I over sanded in the side near the forecastle deck rail meets the main deck rail. This means my cap rail might look 'odd or lopsided' if I stick in on without trimming down the respective width of the cap rail - which may impact overall appearance. Nothing to do at this point but see how it goes - the cap rails on the forecastle deck have to be carved out of a larger sheet - but if I thin them down on the ends, it may impact how I can make the volutes for this rail. TBD
  10. Overworked724
    Tung oil. New found respect. Holy moly...what a difference. After the experiments and feedback from forum and club mates...the use of stain would have been a disaster. Thanks guys!!! Moving on!!!
  11. Overworked724
    A note on staining. Had my heart set on a deeper color stain. However, I noticed that superglue keeps stain from absorbing into the wood. My club mates recommended I use ting oil. My bad for mixing PVA and CA during the planking process. Since I don't want to paint over the wood and trunnels (after all that work) considering to go with ting oil. See pics below for some experimental planking using CA followed by staining. Yikes.
  12. Overworked724
    It's strange how this website orders photographs. Attached are a few pics of my ship after final planking and treenails. Now I'm ready to paint the bulwarks and get the deck started. Think I over sanded near the bow caprail where the volutes will go...oh well. Will adjust.
  13. Overworked724
    Not sure if the tree nails are accurate but they look nice. Sanding, staining and painting in my future. Also remaking stem as over sanding the interior curve led me down the 'rabbit hole' and I lost my perspective.
  14. Overworked724
    Planking almost done. Amazing how much strength that inside layer adds to the bulwark. Pressing on!....
  15. Overworked724
    Laughed when I saw the pic of the tree nails in the stern counter. Had this vision of my ship screaming "Oooouch!!"
  16. Overworked724
    Counter in...think I might have over angled my sanding strip but the stern whale piece should cover it. Also built up the bulwarks and trimmed down the port side at main deck. Wood filler to the rescue in evening out bulwark walls... Taking it slow now.
  17. Overworked724
    Just a fun pic. Nice shot of my ship with my mates in the background at last night's Midwest Model Shipwrights meeting. ⚓️
  18. Overworked724
    Looking good!
  19. Overworked724
    Good Luck! Building this same model myself...but got sidetracked temporarily on a solid hull model!
  20. Overworked724
    I actually have two kinds, both shown above in the pics. I use them both, and they have heavy bases so don't need to be bolted down, but you can if you wish. I attached a mounting block on the main deck so I could work on the underside of the ship. And also drilled pilot hole into the keel for mounting purposes later...and can attached a block through them if I wish to mount it upright. For a small ship like this, I can use both without fear. A longer ship would be best using a keel clamp as the two points of attachment give it great stability. Panavise: https://jet.com/product/detail/ccdc67f92cb34135a5f61231353c02ab?jcmp=pla:ggl:a_nj_dur_gen_hardware_a1_b1:tools_tool_clamps_vises_a1_other:na:PLA_648327839_30263576182_pla-161691684060:na:na:na:2&code=PLA15 And Ship Modeler's Vise (keel clamp): http://www.micromark.com/Ship-Modelers-Vise,7120.html?sc=WGB&utm_source=GoogleBase&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=GoogleBase&gclid=CKTuzsjNzNECFYEYgQod7hgPLg Hope that helps. I use them both a lot!
  21. Overworked724
    Looking good, Elijah! Nice build!
  22. Overworked724
    Quick picks of my toothpick/eElmer's glue tree nail process. Yes...cost savings from getting the cheapie toothpicks because you get 2 tree nails per toothpicks. Think green people! Pics of gaps in the planking. Kills me but wood filler(Elmer's color change stuff) is water soluble. Thin it out with some water and it spreads like butter. Might have to recarv the fake butt joints. Good night all!
  23. Overworked724
    Agreed! Also good to see him kit bash a junior level kit to give you a sense of limitless possibility in building a modeL!
  24. Overworked724
    Amazing...looking back on the pics I am missing so much. I'll do better as I go along.
  25. Overworked724
    A brief word on my planking. Chuck's practicum fails to mention (or I missed it...which is possible)...every ship and build are different. If you trim the bow to look and feel like a can of soup...yes, the planks will be adjustable and easily stackable from stern-bow-stern. But hull geometry (which is a wierd and wonderful thing) will dictate how you can lay your planks. In my case, I had more bow curvature which forced me to consider how to even out the lay of planks. You can see that the first 5 rows of my planks above the wales requires trimming towards the bow. I had to do some math to figure out how much to trim off (and from where) in order to achieve a single flat plank that wrapped around the ship on planks #6/7. Your ship is unique...so referencing anyone else's build log should be for information and ideas....NOT for direction..,.at least where planking is concerned.

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