Overworked724

Nice work on the planking. Particularly the stern. A big step completed. I like the stain, even if it will be covered. Seems like so a long ago that I was at that stage - time flies when your having a good time.

@Matt D Thank you!  I was very happy with the end result. 
 
Four key things I learned on the transom cap rail adventure.
 
1. Using a ‘bending block’ to shape the cap made the job much less stressful. After I got the shape (those sharp bends are troublesome), I let it sit on my ‘transom shaping block’ for a day. Then rewet the entire strip in hot water before putting on the transom for final shaping...This step was cake as it molded to the transom shape easily, then let it dry there for a couple days. 
 
2.  1/16” strip was just too thick. I think thinning down is almost a must (3/64” was a pretty good fit...)
 
3.  Pins...gotta use em. Trying to align and glue the cap rail on your transom (especially a single piece cap) is simply impossible without a guide which the pins provide!  A touch of filler in the tiny holes is all that’s needed after setting it in place. Pins for the win. 
 
4. Basswood for the transom cap rail is really difficult. I tried 4x using basswood strips and each one snapped. I then switched to cedar and made 4x caps of varying thicknesses and not one snapped. Take that at face value as it’s only my experience. 😆
 
Notice that I’ve not painted anything yet. I figure I would attack it all at once after the inner bulkheads are finished. I’ll probably make but not install my cap rails until after I’ve put in the deck...jury is out on that decision. 
 
Moving on to inner bulkheads.....😎

I really had a tough time getting 1/16” cap rail to fit snugly around the transom. Finally decided to trim it a bit...think my cap rail was about 3/64” thick but it still looked like a good dimension for the rail.  Again, using the cedar makes bending those sharper corners a bit easier. Not certain if I’ll use the same thickness for the bulkhead cap rails...we shall see. 
 
I did a single piece. Chuck’s suggestion to do the transom cap rail in sections (2 parts) seemed more difficult to me somehow as I have no background on how that is done. So I used pins in predrilled holes to center the single rail around the transom and had no major issues. 
 

 

 
I touched up the uneven edges after gluing in...then a touch of wood filler around the edges where there were some gaps, and then sanding again. 
 

 

 

 
And....moving on!! 
 
🇺🇸👍🏽

I managed to bend the cap rail. I tried using the iron trick but was not sure the best way to go about it, and due to inexperience using this technique, the strip cracked again. So I contacted Chuck for some advice and he mentioned that the strip I was using might be too thick and should sand it to 3/64" from 1/16". Also, I watched some YouTube videos on plank bending (for furniture) and someone mentioned to soak planks in fabric softener to soften the wood, which I also followed.  Here it is tied around the transform to preform its shape.

 

I really had a tough time getting 1/16” cap rail to fit snugly around the transom. Finally decided to trim it a bit...think my cap rail was about 3/64” thick but it still looked like a good dimension for the rail.  Again, using the cedar makes bending those sharper corners a bit easier. Not certain if I’ll use the same thickness for the bulkhead cap rails...we shall see. 
 
I did a single piece. Chuck’s suggestion to do the transom cap rail in sections (2 parts) seemed more difficult to me somehow as I have no background on how that is done. So I used pins in predrilled holes to center the single rail around the transom and had no major issues. 
 

 

 
I touched up the uneven edges after gluing in...then a touch of wood filler around the edges where there were some gaps, and then sanding again. 
 

 

 

 
And....moving on!! 
 
🇺🇸👍🏽

Patrick, your cap came out terrific.  Nice work on the bending.  

I really had a tough time getting 1/16” cap rail to fit snugly around the transom. Finally decided to trim it a bit...think my cap rail was about 3/64” thick but it still looked like a good dimension for the rail.  Again, using the cedar makes bending those sharper corners a bit easier. Not certain if I’ll use the same thickness for the bulkhead cap rails...we shall see. 
 
I did a single piece. Chuck’s suggestion to do the transom cap rail in sections (2 parts) seemed more difficult to me somehow as I have no background on how that is done. So I used pins in predrilled holes to center the single rail around the transom and had no major issues. 
 

 

 
I touched up the uneven edges after gluing in...then a touch of wood filler around the edges where there were some gaps, and then sanding again. 
 

 

 

 
And....moving on!! 
 
🇺🇸👍🏽

I really had a tough time getting 1/16” cap rail to fit snugly around the transom. Finally decided to trim it a bit...think my cap rail was about 3/64” thick but it still looked like a good dimension for the rail.  Again, using the cedar makes bending those sharper corners a bit easier. Not certain if I’ll use the same thickness for the bulkhead cap rails...we shall see. 
 
I did a single piece. Chuck’s suggestion to do the transom cap rail in sections (2 parts) seemed more difficult to me somehow as I have no background on how that is done. So I used pins in predrilled holes to center the single rail around the transom and had no major issues. 
 

 

 
I touched up the uneven edges after gluing in...then a touch of wood filler around the edges where there were some gaps, and then sanding again. 
 

 

 

 
And....moving on!! 
 
🇺🇸👍🏽

I really had a tough time getting 1/16” cap rail to fit snugly around the transom. Finally decided to trim it a bit...think my cap rail was about 3/64” thick but it still looked like a good dimension for the rail.  Again, using the cedar makes bending those sharper corners a bit easier. Not certain if I’ll use the same thickness for the bulkhead cap rails...we shall see. 
 
I did a single piece. Chuck’s suggestion to do the transom cap rail in sections (2 parts) seemed more difficult to me somehow as I have no background on how that is done. So I used pins in predrilled holes to center the single rail around the transom and had no major issues. 
 

 

 
I touched up the uneven edges after gluing in...then a touch of wood filler around the edges where there were some gaps, and then sanding again. 
 

 

 

 
And....moving on!! 
 
🇺🇸👍🏽

I really had a tough time getting 1/16” cap rail to fit snugly around the transom. Finally decided to trim it a bit...think my cap rail was about 3/64” thick but it still looked like a good dimension for the rail.  Again, using the cedar makes bending those sharper corners a bit easier. Not certain if I’ll use the same thickness for the bulkhead cap rails...we shall see. 
 
I did a single piece. Chuck’s suggestion to do the transom cap rail in sections (2 parts) seemed more difficult to me somehow as I have no background on how that is done. So I used pins in predrilled holes to center the single rail around the transom and had no major issues. 
 

 

 
I touched up the uneven edges after gluing in...then a touch of wood filler around the edges where there were some gaps, and then sanding again. 
 

 

 

 
And....moving on!! 
 
🇺🇸👍🏽

I really had a tough time getting 1/16” cap rail to fit snugly around the transom. Finally decided to trim it a bit...think my cap rail was about 3/64” thick but it still looked like a good dimension for the rail.  Again, using the cedar makes bending those sharper corners a bit easier. Not certain if I’ll use the same thickness for the bulkhead cap rails...we shall see. 
 
I did a single piece. Chuck’s suggestion to do the transom cap rail in sections (2 parts) seemed more difficult to me somehow as I have no background on how that is done. So I used pins in predrilled holes to center the single rail around the transom and had no major issues. 
 

 

 
I touched up the uneven edges after gluing in...then a touch of wood filler around the edges where there were some gaps, and then sanding again. 
 

 

 

 
And....moving on!! 
 
🇺🇸👍🏽

Yeah, once the lintels are in, the width of the bar hits them.  So when trying to sand along the back, it is just flexible enough to sit in the curve, but you need the duct tape for 2 things.  One, it provides a handle to hold on to.  And...Two, it protects the lintels from additional sanding.

War is hell!...................but sanding is bring up a very close second place.  😄   
 
Here is  a couple of pictures of the gun sills and lintels in place.....  and sanded.  I still have a very minor amount left on the deck side of the sills.  Lintels are pretty much done, and depending on how close I have to have the sills sanded to the bulwark bottom.  I fitted in the first inside bulwark plank and it looks like I might have sanded close enough.  (I bet I'll go back and sand some more....)  
 
Newbie note:  When the instructions say to sand the gunport sills then add the lintels, don't save them until you do both.  The problem I ran into, although not a big deal, is that when you are sanding the back side of the sills, it is very easy to knock off a top rail.  ...or so I have read.  😉
 
I did find a way to sand the backside on the straightest part of the hull.  At the bottom of the picture, I took some modeling sanding sticks and put a duct tape handle on them.  I was able to sand from bow to stern on the long run of sills behind.  You can patent this one too... LOL  I was surprised it worked.
 
On to GREEN:  Gunport sides,  oh yeah..... more sanding.  
 
 

Working on transom cap rail. Before I start painting, wanted to figure out how I’ll mount the name plate. 
 
Decided for a simple option. Cut some really thin 0.4mm birch plywood into a strip slightly wider then the brass letter height. Paint it black. Then mounted the letters on the plywood strip. 
 

 
I’ll mount the top trim piece, then the name plate section, followed by the final trim piece. 
 
Although the center section is bowed outward somewhat in the pic below, the letters will not sit proud beyond the width of the boxwood trim pieces. It should look something like below...
 

 
Nice thing here...once the transom is painted, mounting the trim pieces and wood strip with the name will be infinitely easier than trying to stick those tiny letters directly on the transom. 👍🏽

The brass lettering came with the kit. Got the ultra thin birch plywood from Hobby Lobby. The boxwood trim I made myself as I am trying to get away from basswood. 😆

Working on transom cap rail. Before I start painting, wanted to figure out how I’ll mount the name plate. 
 
Decided for a simple option. Cut some really thin 0.4mm birch plywood into a strip slightly wider then the brass letter height. Paint it black. Then mounted the letters on the plywood strip. 
 

 
I’ll mount the top trim piece, then the name plate section, followed by the final trim piece. 
 
Although the center section is bowed outward somewhat in the pic below, the letters will not sit proud beyond the width of the boxwood trim pieces. It should look something like below...
 

 
Nice thing here...once the transom is painted, mounting the trim pieces and wood strip with the name will be infinitely easier than trying to stick those tiny letters directly on the transom. 👍🏽

The brass lettering came with the kit. Got the ultra thin birch plywood from Hobby Lobby. The boxwood trim I made myself as I am trying to get away from basswood. 😆

Working on transom cap rail. Before I start painting, wanted to figure out how I’ll mount the name plate. 
 
Decided for a simple option. Cut some really thin 0.4mm birch plywood into a strip slightly wider then the brass letter height. Paint it black. Then mounted the letters on the plywood strip. 
 

 
I’ll mount the top trim piece, then the name plate section, followed by the final trim piece. 
 
Although the center section is bowed outward somewhat in the pic below, the letters will not sit proud beyond the width of the boxwood trim pieces. It should look something like below...
 

 
Nice thing here...once the transom is painted, mounting the trim pieces and wood strip with the name will be infinitely easier than trying to stick those tiny letters directly on the transom. 👍🏽

My first was the Sultana.  The detailed practicum was invaluable...but this forum was priceless.  See my build log in the links below.  But remember to have fun!!!  Welcome!

My first was the Sultana.  The detailed practicum was invaluable...but this forum was priceless.  See my build log in the links below.  But remember to have fun!!!  Welcome!

Completed the galley stack. It’s made from the kit supplied 1/8” brass tube cut (with a miter saw) at an angle as per the plan. The two handles were made of 28 gauge black anodized wire. The cut tube pieces were glued together with CA. I marked the location of the handles on the tube based on the plan. The handles were attached to the stack with CA. The process of making the galley stack was surprisingly easy – the most difficult part were the handles. I drilled a hole in the raised platform for the stack to sit and added a chimney foot.  I spray painted the stack black.

 

 
Jumping back to Chapter 12, I worked on the companionway. I looked at several build logs for ideas on constructing the companionway, so the details of the companionway are not totally my creation. For the most part, I followed the instructions but deviated based on what I had seen on the other builds. To begin, I cut five (5), 2 ½” long pieces from one 1/32” x 1/8” strip and glued them edge-to-edge. I ran a pencil along the edge of each strip to emphasize the joints before gluing them. I let the glue dry overnight before cutting the panels. The port side panel had to be trimmed slightly on each side to fit the companion way opening. I added a 1/16” wide strip to the fore and aft panels as per the instructions. I glued a 1/16” square strip at each inside corner. For the top, because I plan to notch the top a la Gahm’s build for the hatch, I used 1/16” x 1/8” strips. I test fit the pieces and, satisfied with the fit, I glued the three panels together. I added 1/16” square strip flush with the top of the fore and aft panels where top panel is hinged as well as a vertical strip at the end of the fore and aft panels where the companionway doors will be attached, and a strip across the bottom of the panels at the doorway.
 

 
I added some trim boards to the sides. For the top panels, to account for trim boards and the top overhang, I used a 1/16” x 3/16” strip in combination with 1/16” x1/8” strip. I made up two individual panels consisting of two 1/16” x 1/8” strips and one 1/16” x 3/16” strip. The 1/16” x 3/16” strip will be cut down to suit the fit. The top strips run perpendicular to the side panels. I cut the strips a little too short for my liking – would like to have had a little more overhang. So, the moral of story is, if you are going to add trim boards, make the top panels after the trim boards are glued on. Next, I added the wood strips on the top of the companionway on each side of the opening. These were trimmed down from a 1/16” x 3/16” strip and notched for the lid. The lid was filed to fit the opening and notched on three sides. The lid and the companionway were stained Golden Oak. I made a slight miscue – I didn’t allow for the 1/32” x 1/16” planks on each side of the door opening. But I’m not going to deconstruct the companionway to correct this. Once the doors are attached, this won’t be noticeable. I filed the edges of the top panel to even out the overhang and glued the blackened photo etched hinges to the top. I added hinges to the lid as well. I inserted a tiny length of 28 gauge wire through a loop made in each hinge. The lid is functional. I added a lid handle a la the gun port lids.
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
For the doors, I mimicked Gahm’s build. The doors were made from a 1/16” x 1/16” strip with a panel in between made from a 1/16” x 1/8” strip.  Attaching the doors was a real challenge. I wasn’t able to find any detailed descriptions and photos from other build logs on how to make the door hinges, so I thought I would provide some detail here. My goal was to make working hinges. It started out well. I the door hinge straps were cut from photo etched scrap. The straps were bent to form a loop. The companion hinge strap that is attached to the companionway is a shorter version of the door hinge strap and is also looped. The straps were blackened. Note: In the photo there's only three  short hinges because I lost one - UGH!
 

 
 I glued the door straps onto the door with white glue. Once the glue had dried sufficiently, I placed the doors side by side on a piece of tape and then positioned them on the companionway.
 

 

 
Trying to glue the shorter straps to the companionway and to get them to align with the door straps was an exercise in futility. The shorter straps are so small that they are easily lost if dropped or fly off the end of the tweezers. I had to remake several of them. The shorter straps wouldn’t adhere to the stain. After several failed attempts, my frustration got the best of me and I abandoned the working hinge approach. I decided to simply glue the door straps to the companionway as per the instructions. I inserted a brass pin head into the strap loop to simulate the hinge pin. I filed the head of the pins down using a file and my Dremel. While I'm disappointed that the doors don't have working hinges, I'm satisfied with how the entire  companionway came out. Now, its on to the capstan. Here are some photos of the completed companionway.
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Thanks for the compliment and encouragement. This has been an enjoyable build with varying levels of difficulty.

Before getting into rigging the carronades, I jumped ahead to Chapter 14 and installed the stern davits. I removed the char from the laser cut pieces and made the faux sheaves in each piece. I drilled a hole at the location of the 5 mm cleat for insertion of a pin to secure the davit to the rail.  The port side of the transom was carefully notched out with an x-acto knife as per the instructions.  I had to remove ("deconstruct") the metal carvings above the stern ports to accommodate the notch. I confidently notched the starboard side of the transom with a saw (less work than using a knife). I evened out the edges of the notch with a file. The davits fit well without the need for wood filler. I wasn’t sure how to finish off the transom cap rail. I decided to leave the top edge square and to round off the bottom edge. I glued the davits and then painted them and the transom.  The cleat was added to each davit. The cleat is 5 mm boxwood Syren cleat that I had left over from my Fair American build. The metal carvings were re-glued. The davits extend precariously beyond the stern, so I’ll have to be careful not to break them off.
 

 

 

 
 

 
I’m holding off on rigging the carronades, so I Jumped ahead to Chapter 12 to start the deck fittings. I find this chapter to be enjoyable - it's constructive and you can see your accomplishments with each deck fitting completion.  I made all the grating pieces for the hatches.  I had read in another build log that the top grates run fore and aft. This is contrary to the plans and the instructions which clearly show that the top grates run port to starboard or perpendicular the centerline of the ship.  The only exception to this is the smaller scuttle at the stern. I decided to follow the plans. Before cutting off the excess grating tabs, I applied CA to the back side of the grating. I cut the tabs off with miter saw. After cutting the tabs, the edges were evened out by filing/sanding. Next, I made the coamings for the hatches using 1/8”x 1/16” strips. The corners of the coamings were formed with a lap joint. I notched the joints using a miter saw and a knife. I made a vertical cut to the center line of the coaming strip with the saw and then cut a horizontal line with a knife.
 

 

 

 
After all the coamings were fabricated, I assembled them. I squared up the coamings with the grates and glued them one at a time with CA.   I sanded the bottom of the coamings to create a camber for the coamings to sit properly on the deck. The boards that the capstan will sit on were made from 1/8”x 1/16” strips, as per the instructions. To emphasize the seams between the boards, I ran a pencil along edge of each strip. I’m not sure whether to sand the tops of the hatches to match the camber, for fair that I might ruin them – the jury’s still out. Note: I notice in some build logs that a wood strip was placed between the two grates at the midship. The plans do not depict this, so I opted to stick with the plans. I fabricated the shot racks from 1/8”x 1/16” strips. I cut out the shot rack from the plan and used it as a template to mark the locations of the divots. The difficult part here was creating a divot or dimple for the cannon balls. I used a 1.5 mm drill bit. I sanded each divot with the corner edge of folded 100 grit piece of sandpaper. To create a ledge for the companionway, I still need to add 1/32” x 1/8” strips around the inside edge of the open hatch. I made the platform for the pumps as per the instructions and, jumping ahead to Chapter 13, I made the raised platforms for the galley stack and at each mast. All of the deck fittings are temporarily placed on the deck and will be stained with Minwax Golden Oak. Next up, the capstan, companionway ladder, and binnacle – not necessarily in that order.
 

 

 

Before starting the cheeks I decided I'd finish the stern galleries. I'm still trying to make my own as others have done, but my skill on carving needs more improvement so I decided to use the cast metal ones until I'm happy with a set of mine. Spent quite a bit of time mixing paint to get a color that closely matches the stained bulwark planking. I got a color that matched but it still didn't look the way I wanted so I started trying to add washes and finally found that a wash of dark oak stain gave me the look and feel I wanted.
 

 
Still delaying the dreaded chapter 10 so I started the longboat. Now that the outside and inside are finished I can start assembling.
 
 
 

 
 
I milled down a piece of Alaskan Yellow Cedar down to 1/32" thick and then ripped 1/32" strips. Stained the strips dark oak stain so they'd have contrast when against the tan of the inside.

 
 
That being done I wanted to dress up the mermaid so I cleaned up the casting flash and etc. I painted her flesh body, green fin, blue waist and tiara with yellow hair. It was very garish so I had to do something, ah back to washes. Finally settled on a tan paint & oak stain mixture.
 
I like the result. Let me know what you think.
 

 
 
I can't put it off any longer so onto the cheeks. Kinda cheeky eh!
 
Stay and be safe
Will  

very crisp, looks great - must be nice feeling reaching this point in the build!