Ray1981

I ordered a set like this from micromark.com. But I have to be honest the comment from Ulises Victoria is a very good one and much cheaper.
 
Grtz
 
Ray

I'm a big fan of the Vallejo Model Color range: http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/en_US/model-color/family/15
 
It can be applied with hand brush or airbrush and is an acrylic.

I ordered a set like this from micromark.com. But I have to be honest the comment from Ulises Victoria is a very good one and much cheaper.
 
Grtz
 
Ray

I ordered a set like this from micromark.com. But I have to be honest the comment from Ulises Victoria is a very good one and much cheaper.
 
Grtz
 
Ray

Hi Robbe33
 
Maybe this site will help you. You can even upload a picture and it tells you which color from whcih brand you could use you can also filter on brand.
 
http://scalemodeldb.com/paint
 
I have used Revell enamel but I started now to use MM Acryll I think this is very good paint indeed.
 
Good luck
 
all the best 
 
Ray

When I started building sailing ships, I always took the following approach when in the rigging stages. I reached a point in which I thought: "Oh, I wish there was a tool to do this or that in this or that way"... and then went to making it. Usually needles in various sizes and old paint brush handles was all that was required to do the job.
 
Hope this helps

Well Im off for work again for some weeks most probably so no progress soon . But that gives me at least some time to think about the priming and glueing the hull and drilling holes for the eyelets of the canons. 

Well Im off for work again for some weeks most probably so no progress soon . But that gives me at least some time to think about the priming and glueing the hull and drilling holes for the eyelets of the canons. 

Interesting to add to this thread when doing a wash with oil paint. I saw on Youtube a vid where someone put the oil paint on a cardboard for a while 30min or so. All the oils will be absorbd by the cardboard and you are with almost only pigment. THis makes the oil paint dry faster. Maybe a usefull tip I havent tried it yet but I will try it when starting to paint my deck.
 
Grtz Ray

Interesting to add to this thread when doing a wash with oil paint. I saw on Youtube a vid where someone put the oil paint on a cardboard for a while 30min or so. All the oils will be absorbd by the cardboard and you are with almost only pigment. THis makes the oil paint dry faster. Maybe a usefull tip I havent tried it yet but I will try it when starting to paint my deck.
 
Grtz Ray

Well Im off for work again for some weeks most probably so no progress soon . But that gives me at least some time to think about the priming and glueing the hull and drilling holes for the eyelets of the canons. 

Comparing the model to the actual ship(In picture) lets you know the extent of the weathering needed)

Hello. I just posted some photos of my Santa Maria in other thread. Is something like this what you are looking for?
This is Heller's 1/75 SM kit.

Hey all,
 
This is a tiny update, I just came back from work and be home for a couple of days. I started today with the hull and take a good look on all the excessive plastic that need to be scrapped away. After I did a dry fit and I found out i got some little point left to do. After that time for cleaning and spray some primer.
I will use white primer from Revell because I decided to paint the hull with enamel from Revel. Im just not sure yet if I would do first the primer and than glue the two hull parts together or glue them first and apply the prime afterwards.
 

 
Hopefully in a couple of days a bit more results
 
Grtz Ray
 
 

Hey all,
 
This is a tiny update, I just came back from work and be home for a couple of days. I started today with the hull and take a good look on all the excessive plastic that need to be scrapped away. After I did a dry fit and I found out i got some little point left to do. After that time for cleaning and spray some primer.
I will use white primer from Revell because I decided to paint the hull with enamel from Revel. Im just not sure yet if I would do first the primer and than glue the two hull parts together or glue them first and apply the prime afterwards.
 

 
Hopefully in a couple of days a bit more results
 
Grtz Ray
 
 

Hey all,
 
This is a tiny update, I just came back from work and be home for a couple of days. I started today with the hull and take a good look on all the excessive plastic that need to be scrapped away. After I did a dry fit and I found out i got some little point left to do. After that time for cleaning and spray some primer.
I will use white primer from Revell because I decided to paint the hull with enamel from Revel. Im just not sure yet if I would do first the primer and than glue the two hull parts together or glue them first and apply the prime afterwards.
 

 
Hopefully in a couple of days a bit more results
 
Grtz Ray
 
 

Hey all,
 
This is a tiny update, I just came back from work and be home for a couple of days. I started today with the hull and take a good look on all the excessive plastic that need to be scrapped away. After I did a dry fit and I found out i got some little point left to do. After that time for cleaning and spray some primer.
I will use white primer from Revell because I decided to paint the hull with enamel from Revel. Im just not sure yet if I would do first the primer and than glue the two hull parts together or glue them first and apply the prime afterwards.
 

 
Hopefully in a couple of days a bit more results
 
Grtz Ray
 
 

Hey all,
 
This is a tiny update, I just came back from work and be home for a couple of days. I started today with the hull and take a good look on all the excessive plastic that need to be scrapped away. After I did a dry fit and I found out i got some little point left to do. After that time for cleaning and spray some primer.
I will use white primer from Revell because I decided to paint the hull with enamel from Revel. Im just not sure yet if I would do first the primer and than glue the two hull parts together or glue them first and apply the prime afterwards.
 

 
Hopefully in a couple of days a bit more results
 
Grtz Ray
 
 

I used to store all my threads in an old fishing tackle box but got sick and tired of them getting jumbled and tangled so I thought of an alternative. I drilled holes ( at an angle) along the edge of some scrap timber. I lined some nails up with the holes and then placed my spools of thread on the nails and pulled the ends through the holes thus creating a dispenser of sorts. I have a few like this. I have collected quite a lot of 'antique' cotton and linen threads from antique and collectible shops. They are relatively cheap - apparently the spools are collectible - and, in my opinion, are often better quality than the modern stuff. Hope the idea helps someone who also suffers from tangled thread syndrome.
 

 

 
Cheers
Steve

Hello again friends,
 
Topic pretty much sums it up. I know knots, square, double half hitch, bowline, etc. but when it comes to tying them with tweezers I am a bit befuddled.
 
I also have issues with the knots staying tied.
 
If you could point me to hints, tips, tools, and tricks I would be very great full !

At 1:100 there's a loss of details and the parts are correspondingly tinier.  Much tinier, IMO.   However, there are companies making aftermarket parts for that scale and smaller sizes in PE.  The parts are still tiny, but the detail level just jumps out at you.  

For a long time, I did not give scale a lot of thought,  I just accepted 1:48 as the ultimate standard ( 1/4" : 1" ).  This was after I embraced scratch building.
However, this is essentially museum scale.  It allows for a great deal of detail, but the models tend to be a bit large for private scales- especially for vessels larger than 100' LBP.
 
Those of us in the US, who still use English scale instead of metric - the scales tend to fall on set increments below 1/4".
1:64 is 3/16" : 1'.  1:76 is 5/32" : 1'.  1:96 is  1/8" : 1'.    Prior to the microelectronic revolution, these steps made sense.
With the advent of digital, these limits are longer necessary.   With a calculator and a digital caliper one scale is as easy as the next.
 
We seem to tend to think linear and arithmetic .   The components of 1/8" scale model are one half the length width and thickness of 1/4" scale.
BUT, Mother Nature is 3D (4D actually) and the math is Calculus.   The volume of a model at 1:96 is 0.125 times ( 1/8 ) the volume of 1:48.
 
Your 1:64 model is 0.42 of 1/4  and the 1:100 is something like 0.1 of 1/4.   So, the Niagara model is 4 times larger than the 1:100.
 
I have adopted 1:60 as my scale of choice.  The models are 1/2 museum scale even though they are 80% the length.  The problem is that while Porpoise II (1836) 88'  and even Vincennes (1825) 127' are reasonable in size, Stag Hound at 212' will be a monster even at 1:60.
 
1:96 and 1:100 are on the cusp of miniature scale and that is getting to a whole nuther World of skill and way of thinking. 

Thanks Ray!

Some update pictures!

Aluminium cut straight from a can is very hard. Annealing the sheet, heating it until a piece of wood leaves a brown streak when drawn across it, leaves aluminium that is soft and pliable and can be easily formed.