Gerhardvienna

As we go on with the review, here come the next few parts
First the eyelets on the bottom of the lower carriages, they are simple soldered brass parts.




 
Also the front wheels had to be made. The wheels are turned from 4mm brass rod, they measure 3,8mm diameter, and width of 3mm, the axels are 0,8 x 0,8 mm.

 
Uper carriage prepared for wheel mounting, the upper holes are drilled a bit larger. This is necessary to set the holder plates at a correct angle.

 
Mounting setn for one side wheel mount: 2 holders, 2 screws & nuts M0,6, 1 roller. The small brass tube was used as a wrench. The tube was slightly flattened, then I use a really small amount of silicone for sanitary use inside the tube, and fixed the hexnut into it. This holds the nut as long as it is needed, and releases it when all is fixed.

 
Right side done.

 
Both front whhels mounted, all that was made for 12 gun carriages.................
 
Best regards, thank you for all your "likes", and comments
Gerhard
 
 
 

Hi Nils
 
Old watches, Video recorders and other things are very useful sources for small parts. I almost "collect" those things just to get everything out of them.
 
Had a good look at the photo you mentioned, this is a monster! But I like this big ships.
 
Best regards
Gerhard

Hi Nils
 
Did you have a look at STEBA? http://www.steba-modellbau.de/Katalog/katalog.html
They have a lot of gears metal or plastc, maybe you can find something for the winches.
Other sources http://www.mikromodellbau.de/Shop/volltextsuche.php ,  http://shop.kkpmo.com/index.php?cat=c21_Zahnraeder-und-Triebe-Zahnraeder-und-Triebe.html
 
Regards
Gerhard

Hi druxey
 
Maybe I did overread this, what measure do the hulls planks have? This looks so incredible thin but strong too.
Great work.
 
Regards
Gerhard
 

As we go on with the review, here come the next few parts
First the eyelets on the bottom of the lower carriages, they are simple soldered brass parts.




 
Also the front wheels had to be made. The wheels are turned from 4mm brass rod, they measure 3,8mm diameter, and width of 3mm, the axels are 0,8 x 0,8 mm.

 
Uper carriage prepared for wheel mounting, the upper holes are drilled a bit larger. This is necessary to set the holder plates at a correct angle.

 
Mounting setn for one side wheel mount: 2 holders, 2 screws & nuts M0,6, 1 roller. The small brass tube was used as a wrench. The tube was slightly flattened, then I use a really small amount of silicone for sanitary use inside the tube, and fixed the hexnut into it. This holds the nut as long as it is needed, and releases it when all is fixed.

 
Right side done.

 
Both front whhels mounted, all that was made for 12 gun carriages.................
 
Best regards, thank you for all your "likes", and comments
Gerhard
 
 
 

Started with the fiddly bits..and slapped some colour on it - no proper textures yet, though. The colour scheme is based on the contemporary model (ca. 1780) of the Bellona and the Gustav Adolph.
 
 

 
 

 
And thanks for the likes, guys!

Steven,
I wish you luck, altough I hardly think you'll need it, the way you go at it ... A very interesting build ... don't mind me looking over your shoulder
 
Cheers
 
P.s. The hull's shape reminded me of something I saw on a site when I was looking for the plans for a gondola ... http://www.veniceboats.com/eng-designs-ships-narrow-ships.htm

Thanks Gerhard, I'm glad you are enjoying the build

Hi Nils
 
Old watches, Video recorders and other things are very useful sources for small parts. I almost "collect" those things just to get everything out of them.
 
Had a good look at the photo you mentioned, this is a monster! But I like this big ships.
 
Best regards
Gerhard

As we go on with the review, here come the next few parts
First the eyelets on the bottom of the lower carriages, they are simple soldered brass parts.




 
Also the front wheels had to be made. The wheels are turned from 4mm brass rod, they measure 3,8mm diameter, and width of 3mm, the axels are 0,8 x 0,8 mm.

 
Uper carriage prepared for wheel mounting, the upper holes are drilled a bit larger. This is necessary to set the holder plates at a correct angle.

 
Mounting setn for one side wheel mount: 2 holders, 2 screws & nuts M0,6, 1 roller. The small brass tube was used as a wrench. The tube was slightly flattened, then I use a really small amount of silicone for sanitary use inside the tube, and fixed the hexnut into it. This holds the nut as long as it is needed, and releases it when all is fixed.

 
Right side done.

 
Both front whhels mounted, all that was made for 12 gun carriages.................
 
Best regards, thank you for all your "likes", and comments
Gerhard
 
 
 

As I wrote above, there were more of mass production parts. Next to do were the pivot holders to the lower carriages. I made them from 0,1mm brass sheet.
 
The holes were marked with a steel needle, and then pierced through


 
The backside of the sheet lokked like this, the ridges were filed away, and the sheet bend back to flat


 
Then opened the holes to correct size, bend the flat plates  to 90° angle, and filed to rounded shape


 
As a last step the holders were mounted to the lower carriages. For drilling the mounting holes I use a sawing needle, that does not break so easy like normal drills do.

 
Front and rear holders have different shapes, but both are made the same way. They all are painted with black "silk type" colour, I paint mostly with Revell colours.


 
 
back soon for more, thank`s for watching and your likes............
 
Regards
Gerhard

As I wrote above, there were more of mass production parts. Next to do were the pivot holders to the lower carriages. I made them from 0,1mm brass sheet.
 
The holes were marked with a steel needle, and then pierced through


 
The backside of the sheet lokked like this, the ridges were filed away, and the sheet bend back to flat


 
Then opened the holes to correct size, bend the flat plates  to 90° angle, and filed to rounded shape


 
As a last step the holders were mounted to the lower carriages. For drilling the mounting holes I use a sawing needle, that does not break so easy like normal drills do.

 
Front and rear holders have different shapes, but both are made the same way. They all are painted with black "silk type" colour, I paint mostly with Revell colours.


 
 
back soon for more, thank`s for watching and your likes............
 
Regards
Gerhard

Hello again, and thank you for your nice likes!
Today I will continue with some of the fittings. The SMS Danzig had pivot-guns abord so there were a lot of fittings to make. The pivot bolts are turned in the  lathe, made fron 3mm diameter brass. The handles are made from 0,3mm coppered iron wire from christmas hooks . So you can see, materials for our hobby are everywhere to find!
 
Pivot bolts in the lathe, first turn the shaft, then the heads



 
Then 2 grooves were filed into the heads, and the wire was bend

 
Sodering the wire to the bolts heads

 
Then the bolts were filed to their final shape


 
Also the pivot seats had to be made, I had ordered some photo etched plates, and took  a piece of brass tube 2 x 1mm, cut that to a lenght of around 10 mm, and soldered them together, see the pics.....
 
Photo etched plates and brass tube

 
Soldering the pivot seats, the lower silver part of the soldering form is made from aluminium, the thorn was made from stainless steel, this will not solder to the brass parts!

 
All seats are soldered, but OH MY GOD(!!!!! ) All of the small holes are closed now!

 
So I had to reopen all the holes, took a needle and had work for hours.................

 
Best regards
Gerhard
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Hi Joe
Thank You....
and thank you all for your likes
 
Today is a bit less pictures, just the recoil brakes for the upper carriages. They are made from photo-etched parts and M 0,6 hexnuts. I have ordered some 1 x 0,5mm brass stripes with around 25 mm of length, they were bend around  a piece of wood with 6 x 10mm. Then the brake bar was soldered to the frame, and as last step the hexnut soldered to the upper side. All breaks work fine,  they will be fitted to the carriages, when they are painted.
 
Braking bar soldering to frame


 
Hexnut M0,6 soldering to frame


 
24 brakes for 12guns

 
Mounted to upper carriage just for a test

 
Most important is at this work, to keep the threads clean. I use normal needles, and stick them as hard as possible into the threads. but even with that I ruined some of the nuts, maybe 5 or so. So; best to order some more than you think you need, you will use them...................
 
Best regards
Gerhard
 

So well, here comes a bit more to watch
How did i keep the lifter mechanics work?  I use a small piece of baking paper between the brass parts, so I can avoid, that the parts I need to move free are solderd to the fixed things. But see the pics.............
 
One set for one lifter, just the wheel missing

 
Lifter mounting plate before soldering

 
All 8 plates soldered

 
Lever soldering to the axle, the axle is "invisible", it sits deep in the balsa wood plate

 
Soldering the lever to the lifter arms, use baking paper between arms and mounting plate!! Best to use double sided paper, no need to search for the "right" side!

 
Lifter completed for one side of carriage

 
Mounted lifter on gun carriage

 
Best regards
Gerhard
 
 
 
 

Back again for a bit more review
First of all, THANK YOU for your so many spended Likes
Next things to do were the gun carriages. The DANZIG had 12 pivot guns of three different weights on board, all in 20,4cm caliber. The weights were 95 - 60 - and 52 hundredweights.

 
First to build was the upper carriages, they are made from birch wood of 3mm thickness, milled as 4 pairs at once, and then glued together in a glueing form



 
After glueing this parts I drawed some photo etched parts and gave them to the etching fabric, all blue drawn parts are for that.

 
When the etched parts were ready, I had to bend some of them for mounting them to the carriages, most of the parts were for the largest upper carriages. They have lifters at the rear, and they even work in my model carriages. 




 
Also the pivot carriages are "ready for use" on deck, when this is built, some brass parts are not etched, but handmade. All eyelets are made from 0,5mm brass sheet, or from 0,3mm brass wire. Every single part that is shown in the drawings is mounted to the carriages, so I can rig them in original way at the ship.


 
This was only shown in a very short form, requests and critics are always welcome!
 
Best regards
Gerhard
 
 
 
 
 
 

Ready for a bit more??
Take your seats, no belts required! But food and drinks should be there, this will be a long way .............
You`r all welcome
 
One important step was to turn the spokes for the steering wheels, I did it with Archjofo`s trick. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/1029-la-cr%C3%A9ole-by-archjofo-scale-148-french-corvette-of-1827-scratch-build/page-29and I have made a short video to this method. SORRY for the not so great quality, this is done with a very cheap camcorder from TV-commercial   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eaSHWI8qp8s
And the steering stand was done as well, the wheels will follow the rudder when the ship turns! I will have to make some kind of mechanics! But that is for the future.......... 
 
The guiding tube, one cutout is measured for better understanding

 
All 16 spokes turned

 
The steering stand is made from 4 pieces of 6 x 5 mm oak wood. They were glued together in pairs, and turned in the lathe.


 
turned to round, and the slightley grinded with a file (sorry again for bad pic quality)


 
The turned stands, holds removed and axle holes drilled


 
The stand completed

 
See you soon, there is even more to show!
Best regards
Gerhard
 
 
 
 
 
 

Hi to All
As I mentioned in my introduction thread, I`m building a model of the SMS DANZIG from the prussian navy. How did I get to this ship? I was on a search for a not too small paddleship, if possible a warship, and after a while of searching in the www. I saw what I was looking for. The original ship was about 76 Meters long, and had 2 steam-engines as well as full rigging as a corvette. But: there ae absoluley no plans to get, so I had to make a decision, how to do it. The only plan that comes close to the DANZIG is from the russian Vladimir, and by great luck i could get one set of them. The only smaller problem was, the russian ship is about 10 meters shorter than the prussian, so I had to stretch the plans. But things went well, the rest I have still to do, is to redraw some parts, as the wheel houses for example.
But now to the real build. The model will have two steam engines, the plans were drawn from Mr. Georg Held and me, here is a short video from the prototype:
an I will make the full rigging, as it was shown at a drawing from John Scott Russel, see the pic below.

 
I started with some accessories, as I always do, the first thing was the steering wheels.
 
As a first step to make the wheels, I printed a template on normal paper, cut that into triangles, and glued them to the wood, I used smoked oak wood for the wheels
.
 
The wood was then cut into triangles, and glued together as a octagon. This was set into the milling machine, and the holes for the spokes were drilled.

 
The octagons are then tightend into the lathe, and turned to round at the outside. Important: Always use a wooden shim as a rest for the octagons, they will break fast, if you forget that!

 
Then the center parts are turned on the lathe

 
The next step is not easy to do, the inner shape of the rim needs to be turned. ALWAYS glue some thin Plywood on both sides of the rims, this must be grinded away later. Turn this yery careful, the rings are tending to break, if you are too fast!

 
Now the finished rings need to be cut in halves, so the spokes and centers can be mounted, and glue the complete set together.


 
Will be continued................
Regards
Gerhard
 
PS.: As this is a review, there is a lot more to show, until we come to the presence!

Thanks for those links Gerhard,
 
I have just found and ordered a whole bunch (Convolute) of small toothwheels from used wrist watches, but trust from your "links" there will also be a useful source. Perhaps I`ll get them on Saturday, we`ll see...
 
Nils

Hi Nils
 
Did you have a look at STEBA? http://www.steba-modellbau.de/Katalog/katalog.html
They have a lot of gears metal or plastc, maybe you can find something for the winches.
Other sources http://www.mikromodellbau.de/Shop/volltextsuche.php ,  http://shop.kkpmo.com/index.php?cat=c21_Zahnraeder-und-Triebe-Zahnraeder-und-Triebe.html
 
Regards
Gerhard

As I wrote above, there were more of mass production parts. Next to do were the pivot holders to the lower carriages. I made them from 0,1mm brass sheet.
 
The holes were marked with a steel needle, and then pierced through


 
The backside of the sheet lokked like this, the ridges were filed away, and the sheet bend back to flat


 
Then opened the holes to correct size, bend the flat plates  to 90° angle, and filed to rounded shape


 
As a last step the holders were mounted to the lower carriages. For drilling the mounting holes I use a sawing needle, that does not break so easy like normal drills do.

 
Front and rear holders have different shapes, but both are made the same way. They all are painted with black "silk type" colour, I paint mostly with Revell colours.


 
 
back soon for more, thank`s for watching and your likes............
 
Regards
Gerhard

As I wrote above, there were more of mass production parts. Next to do were the pivot holders to the lower carriages. I made them from 0,1mm brass sheet.
 
The holes were marked with a steel needle, and then pierced through


 
The backside of the sheet lokked like this, the ridges were filed away, and the sheet bend back to flat


 
Then opened the holes to correct size, bend the flat plates  to 90° angle, and filed to rounded shape


 
As a last step the holders were mounted to the lower carriages. For drilling the mounting holes I use a sawing needle, that does not break so easy like normal drills do.

 
Front and rear holders have different shapes, but both are made the same way. They all are painted with black "silk type" colour, I paint mostly with Revell colours.


 
 
back soon for more, thank`s for watching and your likes............
 
Regards
Gerhard

Hi John
 
Thank you, until now I have only made the easy things, some more of that is still coming. I have at the time no possibility for the modelships, I`m doing my home improvement. The living room must be renovated, and my store also, so all i can show at the moment is done weeks and months ago. The "hard" stuff will follow, when improvement is finished, then I will start with the hull, deck, masts & rigging. Even the gun barrels must be made, so it`s alot to do still. But I have even more for the review, next things will follow tomorrow.
 
Regards
Gerhard

As I wrote above, there were more of mass production parts. Next to do were the pivot holders to the lower carriages. I made them from 0,1mm brass sheet.
 
The holes were marked with a steel needle, and then pierced through


 
The backside of the sheet lokked like this, the ridges were filed away, and the sheet bend back to flat


 
Then opened the holes to correct size, bend the flat plates  to 90° angle, and filed to rounded shape


 
As a last step the holders were mounted to the lower carriages. For drilling the mounting holes I use a sawing needle, that does not break so easy like normal drills do.

 
Front and rear holders have different shapes, but both are made the same way. They all are painted with black "silk type" colour, I paint mostly with Revell colours.


 
 
back soon for more, thank`s for watching and your likes............
 
Regards
Gerhard

As I wrote above, there were more of mass production parts. Next to do were the pivot holders to the lower carriages. I made them from 0,1mm brass sheet.
 
The holes were marked with a steel needle, and then pierced through


 
The backside of the sheet lokked like this, the ridges were filed away, and the sheet bend back to flat


 
Then opened the holes to correct size, bend the flat plates  to 90° angle, and filed to rounded shape


 
As a last step the holders were mounted to the lower carriages. For drilling the mounting holes I use a sawing needle, that does not break so easy like normal drills do.

 
Front and rear holders have different shapes, but both are made the same way. They all are painted with black "silk type" colour, I paint mostly with Revell colours.


 
 
back soon for more, thank`s for watching and your likes............
 
Regards
Gerhard