Haliburton

I agree with the other comments. This is looking great!  

Hi, (Just back from day job..)
 
I do not want to do pre orders until I have everything for the kit here with me. It should take no more than a week to have everything here, and we can start putting the kits together, but I do not want to add a pre order until I am certain of release/shipping dates.
 
The kits will be available to order via my new website (Thanks to Steve Urwin, a long standing MSW member):
 
https://vanguardmodels.com/
 
This will grow as more products are added - there will be the figures available in a couple of month's time, Speedy by September I hope, along with more fittings (18 foot cutter kit in 64th, copper plates (PE) and maybe scale hand pumps (PE for scale detail), and some wood strip.
 
But for now, I am working all hours I can on the brig sloop Speedy and then,  when the Alert materials arrive, I shall have to switch to that, but all other times, I am trying my best to get more kits out as quick as I can (which still isn't quick due to the amount of work, even for the smaller kits). I sometimes think it would be nice to have someone else build the prototype kits, but then I realise this is an important part of development, as I can identify major problems and deal with them on the fly. Right now, I think it's bed time..
 
Cheers,
 
Chris

Thank you guys, I am told the laser and PE are being shipped to me within the week, so will be able to start to put kits together by the end of next week (if my boxes turn up..)
 
I had the Speedy captain figure done, and plan to have Nelson and Pellew done too, in both 64th and 72nd scale.

A  Waterline Configuration--
I used my Dremel to cut away the bottom of the hull. Care had to be taken to minimize melting the plastic. The picture looks really gross but it looks worse than it was. A number of cross braces were installed to minimize the hull flexing while sanding it. The hull was dressed and leveled.
The hull was used as a template for the making the boot line. A piece of 2mm black polystyrene by Evergreen, was rough cut using the template. This was glued to the bottom of the hull and shaped to provide permanent boot line.
Cell phone pictures
 

With some trepidation, I've started the build on this kit.  I was going to wait until this winter (when I do most if not all my modeling) to begin but decided to get an early start.  This is a bucket list endeavor.  I built two of the Revell plastic kits back in the 60's and out of that experience dreamed of building a proper wooden model.  I'm just a beginner modeler so I'll be stretching my skills to do a good job.  I've completed three models :  U.S.S. constitution and H.M.S. Victory cross-sections and the H.M.S. Victory bow section.  I consider these to be practice in preparation for this model.  To assist me, I purchased Robert Hunt's practicum which really fills in the gaps left open by the MS instructions.  Also, I'm following about five build logs in this site.  So with them and all the other useful information on the forum, I just make a good go of it.
 
So far, I'm assembling the center keel, keel, stern and stem.  Pictures to following once I finished the clean-up.
 
Thanks,
 
Tidbinbilla

Since I was a youngster, as many of the participants in this website, I have been building models that range from stick and tissue airplanes, solid hulled ships and planes, and armor from all fronts of World War Two etc, etc.
I spent four years building the Model Expo Syren which I consider my first serious wooden ship effort. That was a great learning experience for me. The Model Ship World website served as an invaluable source to make my model building experience meaningful and, although frustrating at times, an enjoyable hobby.
 
After I retired I finished the Syren and jumped right into the ME Confederacy. For me, Confederacy was almost too much but I don’t give up easily. She’s coming along quite well but I needed a change.
 
Today’s plastic models are a far cry from my previous plastic builds. Photo etch presents challenges and possibilities not thought possible a few years ago.
 
So Confederacy was put on the shelf temporarily and research on a new project began.
 
I chose the Hobby Boss USS Alaska, CB-1, in 1/350 scale. I really don’t why I chose this ship. It just caught my interest. The kit had good reviews and plenty of photo etch options available. Anything with multiple 40mm Bofors quads gets my attention.
The USS Alaska enjoyed a brief but meaningful wartime history.  She went to the Pacific with the Missouri at the end of 1944. Alaska’s main battery was nine 12in guns with ten 5in as a secondary dual purpose battery. With a speed of 33 knots and an extensive AA compliment, her main task was providing AA support to the carriers. Alaska was longer than any of the battleships at Pearl Harbor. There is much discussion as to whether the Alaska class was a Heavy Cruiser or a Battlecruiser which it had originally been designed to counter.
 
Kit: Hobby Boss 1/350 scale. The instructions are well done. I didn’t strictly follow the suggested sequence. For instance I assembled the 40mm quads early to see if I would want to replace them with PE. The kit PE are good but I did use some aftermarket items. The kit could be easily built as is from the box and produce a very nice model.
 
References: Warship Pictorial #43, Alaska Class Cruisers, a multitude of websites too numerous to mention, and Mike Ashey Publishing #3, Building and Detailing the Hobby Boss USS Alaska.
Note: Although Mike Ashey’s Publication #3 deals specifically with the Alaska, I think the book serves as a good training tool for beginners or, in my case, getting back into plastic and PE.
After market upgrades: PE items were purchased from White Ensign, B&D Barrels, Master Models,       Alliance Modelworks, and mostly Infini.
Note: The kit supplied PE is, IMHO, quite good and in the future I would have a new kit in hand before I started buying upgrades. Of course seeing what other modelers are using can be a good starting reference point.
 
Paint: I didn’t know that so many shades of gray and blue existed and I still ended up mixing my own deck blue.

I decided to use USN Ms.22 paint scheme as this was in use when Alaska went to war in the Pacific. The flashier Ms. 32/7C scheme shown on the box was used during her shakedown cruises to the Caribbean.
She will also be built in a waterline configuration which is where the build log begins.
 

Good Morning,
With the lower shrouds and lower stays in place, it seemed like a good idea to stop work on the standing rigging and add the five boat handing stations at this point. I also added the ratboards as well.
 
The ratboards were fun to do and actually quite a bit easier than regular ratlines. I always have a problem with the outermost two shrouds pulling in as add the ratlines, but that was not a problem in this case.
 
I've also finished the five boat handing stations. While they were not difficult, it was a much larger job than I anticipated as there are many components to each one. 
 
The hull of this ship has an incredible number of things on it and someone had advised me to take a great deal of care at the outset and when adding any element to the hull to  be quite aware of how it would affect the placement of other components. It was a challenge making sure everything would fit in more or less the right place. I'm happy to report that everything fits properly and I didn't have to make any "do overs."
 
Now on to the rigging in earnest.
David
 

 

 

 

Hi Scott the holes have 3mm brass portholes to cover them and where they are is from the plans. I think they were put where they needed light below deck.

Looking good, the holes are not intended to be fully symmetrical?  Scott
 

I agree with the other comments. This is looking great!  

I agree with the other comments. This is looking great!  

I traced the deck potholes from the 1 to 1 deck plan, I thought this would be easier than measuring out every position and used a normal electric drill to the pit the holes in. 

The bumper sanded and finished and the rail on. I painted the back where it had snapped with brown acrylic paint, it looks better but think I will paint the whole piece to match.




 

Here are some more pics of the manual and, another delivery today. I received the cast resin parts for the Alert, the large drum winch (which was originally designed using many parts in laser cut wood and PE, but decided against as it was quite complicated to build up), and the smaller mast bitts winch. Also, a sample of a 24 pounder cannon for Bristol.

Thanks Ben,
 
I did read that the poop was shortened to just aft of the mizzen (Frigates of the Napoleonic Wars, Robert Gardiner). It states that another gun port was worked into the quarterdeck bulwarks, I am assuming they would be at or near abreast of the main mast, and a carronade would have been fitted, as the recoil isn't so dramatic. I may do a half port, and keep the original levels of the plans, as that looks better.
 
On the Alert front, I had my instruction and plan manuals arrive today (A3 size), and they look better than I ever dared hope, looks quite 'classy'. Having said that they weren't cheap. One thing that I always hated with instruction manuals is the minute size of the text, you will have no problems trying to read the text in this..

Great idea about the sculptures. It sets your product apart - links the ship to history and gives a sense of scale perspective.
 

Great idea about the sculptures. It sets your product apart - links the ship to history and gives a sense of scale perspective.
 

Great idea about the sculptures. It sets your product apart - links the ship to history and gives a sense of scale perspective.
 

Great idea about the sculptures. It sets your product apart - links the ship to history and gives a sense of scale perspective.
 

Great idea about the sculptures. It sets your product apart - links the ship to history and gives a sense of scale perspective.
 

Thank you.
 
I must stress that this is a pre-prototype (the gun port pattern is missing its hawse holes still - I use these to try ideas and see if any stick), and when drawing the details onto the pattern in CAD, I added the eyebolt holes in case I find a way to make these holes work. For example, I figured the second planking could go as high as the lower edges of the gun ports, then remove the bulkhead tabs above deck level, plank the inside, and then drill the holes from the outside in, and then finish off the outer planking.
 
I will try this, and if it doesn't work, I will design some templates instead. It should work, though. As I mentioned, I do not much like gun port patterns so much, and much prefer the new method with longitudinal and vertical frames slotting together to make the port timbers - but the bulkhead tabs would have to be 2mm thick max to do this, and I suspect many builders would be frustrated with the fragility, and many tabs broken whilst planking.
 
I do now include a nice slot in the bows to take the planking up to the planking lines as per the original plans, I tried this with Alert and worked really well, so I shall use that for all future kits.
 
Oh, forgot to mention, I am having a 64th scale sculpture of Lord Cochrane made for Speedy (digital so I can change the scale if I want), what do you guys think about this, like having say, Pellew for Indefatigable and Nelson for Bristol (as he did serve on it). Not just generic sailor figures, but ones sculpted from actual paintings of the men, with the correct heights (Nelson was 5 foot 4 and Cochrane was over 6 feet tall)? I could do them in 72nd, 64th and 48th scale.
 
ETA - Also forgot to say, Speedy will have a copper bottom..

Hello,
 
It has been a while but I promise I have been busy. It has not been  easy developing new kits whilst holding down a full time job, but I am enjoying the experience and hope that one day, I can quit the day job and concentrate solely on the Vanguard Models range.
 
OK, first to be released, which I am hoping will be in two or three weeks, is the Armed Cutter Alert. I am just waiting for everything to be delivered, so I can put the kits together in the boxes. I should have a final price soon, once I receive my final invoice for the laser cutting and photo etched parts.
 
I have attached a pic of the box art that I did for Alert. The manual is being printed right now (56 A3 colour pages).
 
I did start the designs for HMS Bristol, as this was to be my next kit. However, whilst reading one of my books during tea breaks at work, I learnt of the small 14 gun brig Speedy (1782), and her exploits when commanded by Lord Cochrane. I ordered the plans and decided to do this next. It seemed to make more sense, as I will be able to release this by the end of Summer (I hope). Because of the very fine lines, I have used a lot more bulkheads than is usual for this size of kit (15 bulkheads).
 
After this, I will hopefully have some money come in instead of all going out, and will concentrate of Bristol, followed most probably with a heavy frigate.
 
I will add a couple of pics of the Speedy prototype hull in a following update. I had the parts laser cut locally, as these are 'sacrificial' parts and used only to check fit and make sure the gun port pattern fits exactly as it should. I did intend to have the gun ports framed, as the Victory model, but realised the frames would have to be way too thin to achieve scale thickness of the bulwarks, once the inner and outer planking strips were factored in.
 
This is the new website (still work in progress until I finalise costs of Alert:
 
https://vanguardmodels.com/
 
And a big thank you to Steve Urwin, who has done all of that for me, which I appreciate very much.
 
Also a big thank you to Jim Hatch, who has helped with contacts for boxes and resin casting suppliers. Without MSW, I would not have even started down this path, so thank you!
 
Chris

Wow !

Boat decks painted and enclosed. I’ll have to mask these sections off when I join the hull. I’ll now finish the davits and ship’s boats that will be added upon completion.