Haliburton

Recovery is going much slower than expected.  Been lurking around reading others logs. Did get my workbench cleaned up and reorganized for getting back to the build. Hopefully my health and real life will let me get back to it soon. Looking over things, getting re-familiar with where I will be starting back at.
 
Jesse

Good day to all. My name is Scott and I live in the Shenandoah Valley in Virginia. Originally from Coastal Massachusetts and later from Rhode Island. Retired Army with 22 years before getting hurt in Iraq in 2008-09. Recently took interest in Ships in a bottle which is funny because I grew up and lived on the water all of my life and have been around boats and ships all my life, now being land-locked, I take interest. Started a cheap ship model kit, which can be seen in the Builders log section, to gauge my interest before building a SIB and also a more detailed ship kit. I look forward to reading and gaining knowledge from this site and look forward to your comments and help as I further my experience in this wonderful hobby. 

Fairing the bow.
 
 

Talk about getting diverted
 
I'm back on planking again. Since I have not installed the stern post & stem I have been leaving all the strakes extra long so that I'll have enough wood to fit them nicely to the stem/stern. This is becoming a problem as the strakes get closer to the garboard (my number one concern) the ends are starting to collide. So, what the heck, I'll go ahead and glue the stern post and stem in place. In fitting those, I realized I would have to make pintles and gudgeons for the rudder. Easier to make them before gluing the stern post.
 
I'm out of nails except for some very thin ones - no idea where they are from. If I hammer them about half just crumble up. More than a few one syllable words have been voiced. The first set I made ended up extending out too far so I ended up with almost a 1/4" gap between the rudder and stern post which looks odd. Of course I used up all the brass strip from the kit. Again, they don't supply much extra. I have some slightly thicker brass strips I'm using but drilling them out with a pin vise is painfully slow. Maybe time to break out the flex shaft.
 
Thanks for letting me bend your ear

Thanks Darrell. I'm still up in the air over that. I made the decision to just follow the instructions and they have the stem & stern after planking. I can see your point. The downside is somehow I managed to break several plank ends right where they extend over the first frame at the bow. I'm going to have to cut those planks somewhere and add some shorties to replace so that they reach to the stem again. Had I installed the stem they probably would not have broken. Sadly the kit doesn't provide enough of these hull planks to cut out the whole strake.
 
In noticing that I also realized that I did not break the strakes up into individual planks - something I like to do. Just one of those moments I guess.

Looking good Mike.
 
Not adding the stern post and stem will greatly help you to sand the planking ends and shape the curves. I think that was a good call. I wish I had waited to add my stern post until after I planked my Niagara.  It was in the way and I nicked it repeatedly when I was sanding the end of the stern planks. Rabbit or not, I think I could have done a cleaner job by adding it after planking.
 
 

I'm sure it would look better with filler blocks. Unfortunately I have about 2/3 covered with the 2nd planking now. There's a slight bend right where the plank goes over the first and last frame but I think most people would not see it. Sanding has smoothed it out some.

Hi Mike, a great update and as Per said a really well done tutorial on how you use the dividers.  Scott

Do you have a scroll saw? I wonder if that would be easier. Scott

Mike, maybe you can experiment with a different stain or a stain pen to even it out a bit, or maybe some surface sanding to lighten the dark areas? Scott

Mike, I will definitely check out that book you mentioned. I'm guessing it will give some mention of the Hamilton and Scourge.

Hi Mike, I've been looking at this one too and agree it's pretty neat. I'm going to follow along if that's all right. There is one other build of this on the site and there is a build log on modelshipbuilder.com that might help. Scott

Well done Per!  Really nice.  Congratulations - Scott

I've installed the waterways and fitted the waterways between the stanchions.  It was a big of a time consuming task to measure and fit each one but went fairly well.  In all it took about 2-1/2 hours.  One slight problem I have is that because I had to shim a couple of the bulkheads I now have a gap between the waterways and the planking.  In a couple of spots the gap is significant. I guess I'll have to spend a little more time fairing the hull to see if I can reduce the size of the gap. I can always add a little filler between the waterways and the planking if I have to.
 
 

Planking continues. I'm still finding those 0.5mm sticks hard to work with. I decided to take a break from that and do some deck work. Discovered a pretty glaring oversight. The Italian instructions show a pic of this, no idea whether it's mentioned in the text. The English instructions don't mention it.
 
Regarding the bench seating, I had wedged each bench into place right behind and above the preceding footrail. WRONG! There is a coaming of sorts that is supposed to go around the entire rowing section and the benches are supposed to go on top of that. This raises the benches up some which I suppose would have been a good for the oarsmen. The way I had done it, I was always laughing thinking a guy would have his boots on the butt of the guy behind him. Not any more. It just looks better too.
 

 

 

 
Fortunately I was able to salvage the benches, sand off the glue and reuse them. A good thing - there is not a lot of extra walnut in this kit.
 
 

Now into planking round 2. I have not added the stem or stern post. I'll just have to wait and see how that works out. Was wrong about the 2nd planks they are pretty thin. At first I thought they would be easy to lay - the first 2 under the sheer strake I did not shape at all and they went on easily. Same for the "garboard". Then I went thru the same routine as before, marking the bands. The frames are all covered up now so I drew some lines from the keel up to the sheer strake. Still using the dividers I began to measure inside the bands in order to shape the planks. Then I had to cut/file the strips and that's where the fun started. The strips are 3mm x 0.5mm walnut and they don't cut worth a darn. Several have split and this is the one set of sticks where there are few extras. Resorting to just pressing down with a knife which works OK but then they are too flimsy to sand. It took 30 minutes to complete 4 strakes.
 
On the positive side, planking over a first layer is quite easy. I've been used to gluing sticks to frames. Now I can put glue anywhere along the run.
 
I guess overall, I prefer a single layer. Doing a 2nd layer is too much like rework. And I HATE rework.

It should work as long as you leave a flat surface for the stem, stern and keel.  It'll basically look like normal construction.  Do a little sketch to check out the concept.

Well done Per!  Really nice.  Congratulations - Scott

Well done Per!  Really nice.  Congratulations - Scott

Treat sanding as a chance for meditation.  Be the wood.  Feel the the grit ....
 
OK - at least your almost there!

Do these volumes and accompanying plans come with a recommended bill of materials re: wood types and quantities?  This would be a far future project for me, but was curious.
Scott

Santa Maria by Pierre Tessier - Maris Stella - 1:60
This is a Christmas gift from my son, I promised myself I would finish the Batelina before starting this one. Now that my first build is complete and my shop is clean I can begin my second build and build log here on MSW.
 
I must mention that I was pleasantly surprised when I met Zoran from MarisStella, here online. He saw that I was building the Batelina and noticed I posted that I had the Santa Maria on the shelf. He got in touch with me and mentioned that he was in the process of re-writing the build manuals for the latter, and offered his re-wright.
This would allow, help, a beginner to go about the proper way of building this kit. Also must point out this is single layer POB construction.
Maris Stella School of Model Ship Building has categorized this as a "Beginner Set: Level 3" which according to them should be your 5th build. I am in no way an expert nor do I feel I am better then others but thought this would be a great 2nd build as I do like challenges. Hopefully I did not bite off more then I can chew. (If I do I have Zoran to help....lol)
Now about the box, two full size plan sheets, two plywood laser cut parts, two hardwood laser detailed bits and parts, full stock of beautiful walnut and mahogany wood planks, strips and dowels, bag of hardware including canons, guns, hinges, bags of wooden bits, anchor, rope, carving block for 2 small boats and pre sown embroidered sails, expert build manual. (Beginner manual being written as we speak) 
Kit box closed

Kit box open

Kit box stuff

Plan 1

Plan 2

First step to do according to manual is to take inventory of supplied wood.
Lumber yard (bundled as per material list.)

Next I built the stand with an. 11.4mm incline at the bow. This is to allow proper alignment of the bulkheads when using a square.
Stand plan

Stand keel 11.4mm offset

Stand 

90' without offset   --- 90' with offset

Plywood Elements


That's it for now, next I will post the work to be done to prepare the keel for the bulkheads.  Did I say how much I am enjoying this hobby, So looking forward to building and learning more I'm like a kid learning to walk for the first time.....lol...anyway until next time.
Cheers.
 

Do these volumes and accompanying plans come with a recommended bill of materials re: wood types and quantities?  This would be a far future project for me, but was curious.
Scott

Hi Mike, a great update and as Per said a really well done tutorial on how you use the dividers.  Scott

Here is the fix