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Ian_Grant

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Everything posted by Ian_Grant

  1. Ian_Grant
    Yes, the library printer could barely print it at all. Mortice and tenon is a good idea but I think a more complex CAD program would be needed. I have two days before we go away - I am trying to improve on the paint job. So far it looks promising.
  2. Ian_Grant
    Beautiful model. The crew really brings it to life! Nicely done. I'll have some figures to do soon; I have some learning to do first.
  3. Ian_Grant
    Kevin, sounds like a good idea but the "frame" would be awfully delicate. Unfortunately when drawing it in TinkerCAD I gave no thought to possibly splitting it so it's a real dog's breakfast of elongated tube sections and "holes", and a patchwork of filler pieces. I'm reluctant to revisit it but may have to if I can't get a decent paint job on it. If you're interested here's the CAD file, at the risk of exposing my clumsy drafting: Galley Fantail(1).zip
  4. Ian_Grant
    Another great model, Glen! Did you consider maybe having the fore topmast broken and hanging askew, to add to the abandoned appearance?
  5. Ian_Grant
    Plodding along on deck fittings. Here is the latest overall view: 3D printed vent gratings and spar cradles. The mainyard lies on the cradles. The main mast "tabernacle". The separable upper black part will be glued to the mast, and lashed to it in the concave portion. The white pin at the bottom is to allow me to lift off the little block behind the mast, thus allowing me to slide the foot of the mast aft so I can collapse it. All the rigging will collapse with it, and it will all attach to the main removable deck section except the fore and backstays which will need to be unhooked at the stem/stern. Tabernacle taken apart. The white pin will be painted black. Mast will be stained then varnished as will the yard. Fitting on foredeck for the "artemon" (what we'd call a bowsprit). Again, the part which will be lashed to the artemon is glued to it. Removing the white pin releases it so the artemon can be pulled in and down. Will need to make sure the bracket holding it at the stempost has some wiggle room to allow for this. Boarding bridge is now painted. I see some white touch-up is needed. I have no info as to how it was manhandled over the side through the gaps in the bulwark or held in place there; will need to devise some reasonable scheme using cleats etc. Bridge will be glued to fore hatch and be its "handle". I copied this design from Flavio Terenzi's model but it seems to me that the lower portion of the sides should be solid to protect the marines' legs as they formed shield walls to cross over in the face of enemy archery; shields would have reached from heads to about knees. Might modify it. Printed fantail decoration, badly painted. I need to figure out how to get black paint in between the converging fingers without gumming them up. I should have printed it in four pieces, one per finger, then painted, then glued together. Hindsight is 20/20. Artillery: here is a printed ballista in resin, courtesy my brother. Beautiful detail but sadly too small (I had spec'd the length but it was hard to picture) so he has printed four more copies in larger scale for me. Not received yet. Still to come are captain's stern shelter, anchors, rigging, some sort of material for gathered sails, stern flag standard. And crew. We're going away on a little trip again. Thanks for following.....
  6. Ian_Grant
    It's from the Zvezda plastic kit #8515 "Roman Trireme". I only have two or three books on galleys through history and can't find any such details as to their rigging in them. It looks cool and suitably "ancient" but really I'd rather not have to fiddle with little wood sticks when rigging my galley. Sorry Steven, for digressing from your fine build!
  7. Ian_Grant
    Sure, here is one: Now that I've photographed it in microscope mode I see that the block is indeed stropped, with toggles like on a duffel coat seized on. The attaching ropes also seize to these toggles. Pretty exquisite molding at this scale. The block itself is about 4mm. This double-ended design is the upper block for the shroud tightening; one end is the shroud and the other is the lanyard which reeves through another double block (with toggle at one end only) lashed to the rail with the running end on a cleat mounted on a rail post.
  8. Ian_Grant
    Very cool design, and an Arduino to come. Submarines are demanding technologically.
  9. Ian_Grant
    Dick or Steven - do either of you know whether those blocks with the "T" on their end for stropping would be used in Roman times or did they have the now conventional stropping system? My plastic Zvezda galley came with the "T" versions and I'm wondering whether to make some for my big galley. Thanks, Ian
  10. Ian_Grant
    Bonne Chance avec les planches secondaire, mon ami! She sure was a chunky little ship.
  11. Ian_Grant
    Glen, if you aren't familiar it's from "The Rime of the Ancient Mariner" (1798) by Coleridge. A bit of a difficult read these days, maybe then too.
  12. Ian_Grant
    Looking at your model's tattered sails and battered hull reminded me of a ghostly ship in a certain poem: ...... ...... The western wave was all a-flame The day was well nigh done! Almost upon the western wave Rested the broad bright Sun; When that strange shape drove suddenly Betwixt us and the Sun. And straight the Sun was flecked with bars, (Heaven's Mother send us grace!) As if through a dungeon-grate he peered, With broad and burning face. Alas! (thought I, and my heart beat loud) How fast she nears and nears! Are those her sails that glance in the Sun, Like restless gossameres! Are those her ribs through which the Sun Did peer, as through a grate? And is that Woman all her crew? Is that a DEATH? and are there two? Is DEATH that woman's mate? ........ ........
  13. Ian_Grant
    What worked for me is to slip the seized loop over the masthead, and as Druxey says loop the lower end around the deadeye where you want it to be. Then I clamp the two parts of the shroud together with a mini smooth-jaw alligator clip. This holds all together while I apply a seizing against the deadeye; the small seizing thread easily slips in between the deadeye and alli clip. Then remove the clip, apply a small bit of glue to the seizing and add the others. https://canada.newark.com/mueller-electric/bu-34/alligator-clip/dp/28F496
  14. Ian_Grant
    Regret to inform there are no penguins in the Canadian Arctic. Just polar bears, seals, narwhals, belugas, etc.
  15. Ian_Grant
    Clicking on "WOW" doesn't do this justice........will this model have absent deck planks to show off that magnificent inlaid floor?
  16. Ian_Grant
    Don't worry too much about it being not quite straight - the trim on the radio Tx can be used to trim the rudder to fly straight with centre-stick. I see they also have an SE-5A, my favourite WWI plane.
  17. Ian_Grant
    I looked up the steam plant on the MCM web site; it comes up as "4034 Steam Plant - Assembled - 2" HP "Econo" Vertical Boiler - Avon Engine" I did a double-take as I first read this as "2 HP" ....... LOL! 😂 That would have made your model "go".
  18. Ian_Grant
    Nice build! Not too many places to "hide" the RC gear especially the rudder servo. I recall seeing another African Queen long ago in which the builder had several crates aboard like in the film (were they marked "explosives", I think?). Perhaps you could cover the rudder servo using these? Do you have access under the fore deck for the Rcvr, "steam control" servo, and battery? This same builder also found 1/12 scale (standard doll house scale apparently) figures; the Hepburn was a perfect appearance and pose. Can you tell us where you found your Bogart and Hepburn? This is a build I would consider for the future - interesting and out of the mainstream. Look forward to seeing it on the water.
  19. Ian_Grant
    That's some bend in those 2nd planks but that's why they're thin. Off topic Bill, but have you seen Occre's wood/metal locomotive models? They look great but I don't know if I'd have the skill to build one, having downloaded instructions to see what they're like. I'd need to buy an airbrush and learn how to use it.
  20. Ian_Grant
    Crew looking great! And the ship too, of course.....
  21. Ian_Grant
    Looks good; well done!
  22. Ian_Grant
    Bill, I assume that you carve the balsa flush with 1st planking, then plank over the balsa with 2nd planking?
  23. Ian_Grant
    So far, so good!
  24. Ian_Grant
    Thanks Pat, trust me I will not be painting them by hand! I was thinking decal or label paper if I could buy small quantity of sheets. "Paint" is weird to learn. Probably just me.
  25. Ian_Grant
    Working on the gold and yellow decorative painting at the bow. She's really coming to life! Painting touch-ups at edges of the yellow trim will be ongoing I am sure. Rather like the stern balusters on the Heller Victory. 😏 Her personality changed when I painted the black at bow and on the cap rails....entire u/w hull will be black. Now trying to figure out how to draw her eyes in "Paint".

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