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Ian_Grant

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Everything posted by Ian_Grant

  1. Ian_Grant
    Are they actually doing that in Europe now? I had no idea. There was some mention of "them" thinking of doing it here in North America in "Driving" magazine. It would raise a lot of resentment since one pays for the hardware in the car at time of purchase. It ought to be yours to use.
  2. Ian_Grant
    Well done!
  3. Ian_Grant
    I've always wondered about these grey decks. Yes museum ships sitting outside nowadays may have a grey appearance, but in the actual period crews of king's ships holystoned and rinsed the deck daily, at first light. My deck out back is grey after the winter, but when I wash it even just with dish soap and a scrub by broom it is brown again. There are many mentions, at least in Forrester's books, of "snowy white" decks on admirals' three-deckers. Just putting this in for discussion.
  4. Ian_Grant
    Thanks 'Rookie", I could only have done it at this stage of life, with time (and money) available and career experience. 😊 Marc, I'm honoured to receive praise from you given the incredible model you are making of the SR! Thank you.
  5. Ian_Grant
    Enjoy TinkerCAD ..... it's amazing what you can do with it. Any questions just ask.
  6. Ian_Grant
    Put the lathe back under the bench; wonder if I'll ever use it again? Before doing that I vacuumed out under there in the process discovering objects such as a long-lost hammer. So I decided to empty and vacuum the shelf under the bench and found more stuff, including a box with my wife's late grandfather's carving tools and some bandsawn blanks of his for horses etc (he was a farmer who loved his workhorses), and this little jewel which I believe was the grade 11 machine shop project. I recall hardening the jaws and polishing before assembly. Fond memories! I will take grandpa's box to the cottage this summer and while away some down time trying to produce a creditable horse, in his memory.
  7. Ian_Grant
    Thanks guys, but in this case the "Ferrari" is far far slower than the "VW's". But it is cool to see the oars rowing.....😉
  8. Ian_Grant
    Good question. Being standing rigging I expect it would run round the collar and be seized securely to itself. God knows what I actually did on my model; it's hard to even see now.
  9. Ian_Grant
    Yes, a "purchase" means a tackle of some sort involving one or more multi-sheaved blocks. Except a simple whip which is a single block. Luckily you can trim your lines shorter to add a block, no need to stretch any. 🙂
  10. Ian_Grant
    Some photos from the pool session. It was the first time I've seen RC submarines dive; very cool and fascinating to see their workings and have it all explained to you. One modeller told me not to get into submarines "unless you really enjoy constant tinkering and experimentation". They were FAST under water!! The cruiser on the bottom right, with the nice wood deck, is RIDICULOUSLY fast; two seconds at full speed then reverse to avoid hitting the pool wall. Something about a water-cooled brushless motor.
  11. Ian_Grant
    Hi Malcolm, The usual thing was to tighten the stay then frap the running end round and round between the blocks, like the wraps around the gammoning. Your other two black lines should have similar purchases using blocks, again with the running ends frapped around themselves. NOW it really gets crowded. In order to be completely accurate the fore topmast stay and preventer stay should have ""long tackle" blocks instead of a standard double (Pg 222). You can glue two different-sized blocks together, or just use doubles; I won't tell. ☺️ As for the fore royal stay, I tied it off to the forestay collar as Longridge mentions, reasoning that the knightheads were "full". The forestay collar is the loop at the base of the forestay that goes around the bowsprit (Fig 140, pg 214). The fore royal stay can be tied off to the port "leg" of the collar, above the bowsprit, below the heart, since this stay comes from a block on the port side of the bowsprit as you mentioned.
  12. Ian_Grant
    Renewed bow bulwarks cleaned up and repainted to the previous state, i.e. still no paint on cap rails. I like the new look much better, as does Marcus because he can now see forward and has a greater length of "fighting bulwark". Unfortunately, I am now sorely tempted to change the stern as well. 🤔 Here are a couple of images. I was forced to redo all the little panels below the cap rail because the original sweep of the bottom part did not suit the new cap rail sweep. I finally bethought myself of using evergreen strip for the curved bit instead of wood strip. How easy to form the bend! Can't wait to see how she looks with yellow/gold paint on the brass trim strips! This afternoon there is another RC boat club session at a local indoor pool. I'll see how the old stern bulwarks look on the water and decide whether to hacksaw them too. After this water session I will remove all the mechanics and electronics and really get going on finishing up this hull. Thanks for following!
  13. Ian_Grant
    West system is great epoxy, but even it needs UV-protective varnish or at least it did when I made my canoe many years ago. Might you need another coat to protect your fine build?
  14. Ian_Grant
    Hi Malcolm, I sent you a PM.
  15. Ian_Grant
    With the possible exception of the Tweety/Sylvester episode where Tweety's cage is by a 2nd floor window, and the little old lady keeps about 60 dogs in her yard. My favourite part is Sylvester reaches the window on stilts, then Tweety throws a bunch of wood saws to the dogs and we see the cat beating a hasty retreat but getting ever lower to the sound of saws. I still laugh just thinking about it. Sorry to digress in your log, Malcolm. Carry on ......
  16. Ian_Grant
    I love the road runner 'toons and all the "Acme" parcel deliveries. I read somewhere that they've all been "sanitized" now to make them less violent. Sigh.
  17. Ian_Grant
    Hi Malcolm; Your rigging is looking nice. I had similar issues with beeswax - lanyard threads looked great until I pulled them through 3 blocks, or six times through deadeye holes, then the fuzzies reappeared. Especially with my .1mm natural for some reason. I smoothed them again between my fingers, where feasible. Later in the build you'll be finding bits of beeswax on the decks too .... 😠 Out of curiosity, what are the natural threads coming out of the hull forward of the bowsprit shroud ends?
  18. Ian_Grant
    Turns out Lee Valley has a line of woodworking chucks, which accept any one of a bunch of different threaded inserts one of which fits this lathe's headstock thread and taper. Food for thought.
  19. Ian_Grant
    For a while it's been bothering me that the circles at the peaks of the stem and stern are different thicknesses; the stern was padded out by the thick medallions I had 3D-printed but the stem had only the thin medallions I got from Etsy. Finally yesterday I pried the stem medallions off and added 1/8" thick wood discs cut by the laser while I was making parts for the boarding bridge. Only afterwards did I discover that now the port side medallion's rim would interfere with the artemon ("bowsprit"). I woke up this morning having decided in my sleep, apparently, that I would cut the bow bulwarks to a new curve, not only to fix this but because their height has also been bothering me for a while. No one on board could see ahead; I had considered lowering the bulwark but thought it would be too painful. Instead I was going to add a little raised platform at the bow. Well, now that idea is toast. Here are progress shots on modifying the port side. It wasn't as bad as I thought, though I will need to redo all the decoration and painting. Adding new cap rails will be a problem as regards clamping them with the inner bulwark faces now present. Will have to devise some elastic something or other. 1) Level bulwarks extended much further forward. 2) Final curve to stem marked and getting cleaned up. Oh, and here is the basic assembly for the boarding bridge; all laser cut and just glued up by yours truly.
  20. Ian_Grant
    Yes, knurling was way cool. That's actually my brother's hammer; can't find mine. But it was better 😏. What stuck in my mind also was turning aluminum/aluminium. We had contests to see who could get the longest continuous shaving, with a chain of guys supporting it as it lengthened. Fond memories.
  21. Ian_Grant
    That's the one....so I guess I did give it back to you.....and forgot again..... 🤔
  22. Ian_Grant
    It's when the tailstock (undriven end) assembly can be moved across the lathe rails i.e. forward/backward so that the headstock and tailstock axes are no longer in line as seen from above. On a metal lathe the tool carriage moves along parallel to the rails, so if one wants to cut a taper one must offset the tailstock in order for the cutter to do so. Think way,way back to Mr. Brandt's machine shop class and making the hammer in grade 9......🙂 By the way, I have your grade 9 hammer for some reason. Keep forgetting to bring it to you. 🙄
  23. Ian_Grant
    Yes, a nice mini lathe would be good to have for model making. The Rockwell-Beaver I picked up at a used tools place soon after I met Robin. It's pretty smooth even just clamped to my bench. I only have a dead centre for the tailstock (or maybe that's common for wood lathes?) and a faceplate but no chuck for the headstock. Not sure if I could find a chuck now for whatever taper this lathe has. Oddly enough it seems to lack the ability to set a tailstock offset for tapering, or perhaps that's just a metal lathe thing. Probably is. The mast was turned between centres. I might try some bowls on the faceplate next, for fun. I got the faceplate at Lee Valley years ago; figured I should get one while still available.
  24. Ian_Grant
    Same Ryobi drill I have - a surprisingly good tool. Look forward to seeing this ship next time we're down east.
  25. Ian_Grant
    Yes, all RAV-4 hybrids use a 2.5liter 4 cylinder. They employ Toyota's "adaptive" AWD: front only in normal circumstances; AWD when necessary. Front wheels are driven by engine and/or front electric motor. Rear wheels are driven by rear electric motor only. It's fun to watch the "Energy Flow Diagram" on the dash screen which shows what is powering the wheels at the moment, or energy flowing back into the battery if you take your foot off the gas. We found on test drives that the hybrid CRV has a noticeable slight hesitation when you "step on it"; apparently this is due to the CVT having to mechanically engage a rear drive shaft to start powering the rear wheels, as opposed to the instant torque from the RAV-4's rear electric motor. Finally, in my own defence, I've had to live through eight years of Canada's free-spending Liberal government and their self-contradictory policies. The PM is a university dropout whose resume mentions "snowboard instructor" and a brief stint as a "teacher" which was brought to an end with a mysterious NDA. Our finance minister has a degree in Slavic languages. I'm not alone at being tired of the whole gang: https://nationalpost.com/opinion/michael-higgins-affordability-not-conspiracy-theories-are-the-root-of-canadian-anger But let's get back to model ships. In my case, today I had a "fail" at a 2nd attempt to 3D-print a part for my ship. Back to the drawing board! 🙄

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