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Ian_Grant
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Thanks Keith. Hadn't heard of polycrylic before. Will read up on it and see if it's suitable outdoors by chance.- 536 replies
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Routered a slot in each rudder blank for the square brass rudder post. This is a square tube into which a round rod is soldered; this rod passes through a brass tube at the steering platforms. Here is one left and one right rudder, with two little cover plates to be glued on. I roughed up the acrylic to give the glue some hook. Painted-on "scale" rudders and the linkages; they will be mounted with the cover plates on the inboard faces. I used "JB Weld" epoxy for the first time. Wow it really grabs stuff but it's a rather ugly dark grey when dry, not a worry here due to painting. I polished the acrylic cut edges down to 600 grit wet. We just pretend that the clear areas are not there. 🙂 Rudders mounted. By the way I clear-coated the hull paint in exterior UV satin finish. I could not find exterior in matt. I am thinking of applying an interior matt over that, above the waterline, and hoping that it will stick. A short video of the rudder action. P6270947.MOV Size comparison of the NiMH pack with the lantern battery. No contest. Then re-assemble the mechanisms. The sliding bases: The oar beams: After adding the oars I need to do a ballast test in the pool before taking her to the cottage tomorrow. It's supposed to rain all day Saturday so I will have more time to tweak it. Didn't have time to do much rigging, sadly. I will take the laptop too in case any software changes are needed. Video from on lake to follow............🤙👍
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Glen, Banshee is truly beautiful......going to be a magnificent display when bottled.
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"mil"? Do you mean mAh? If so a 3300 can deliver 3.3A for one hour, or 1.0A for 3.3 hours; the 5000 can deliver 1.0A for five hours; in theory. In reality you can't drain all that stored energy out because you must not let a cell drop below about 1.0V to be safe. You can expect to get about 65% of the total stored energy. Battery size doesn't matter to the motors or the ESC, apart from the fact that the 3300 runs out more quickly, but it might to the charger. If you have a fast-charge type the 5000 mAh can tolerate a higher charge current. If it's a slow type it doesn't matter; the 5000 just takes longer to charge.
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Looks like it. Harbour Models allows download of the ESC instructions, including the simple calibrate sequence to set up forward/reverse. They also mention blowing air over the cooling fins - it doesn't have a built-in fan like those others. First time run the motors for a few minutes and see if it's getting hot. The FET transistors they use have very low on-resistance so in theory they dissipate little power. If it is getting hot you might add a small external 12V fan also powered by the battery.
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Here's what I've been working on........ Drew two patterns of shield motifs in CAD and 3D printed ten of each. Painted them up and attached to bulwarks. Drew some cleats and cut them out from 1/8" plywood using the laser cutter. Here are the cleat boards which will be inside the bulwarks to anchor the mast shrouds. Haven't yet painted the cleats. Lashing and halyard cleat at the mast foot. Recall that the part of the tabernacle lashed to the mast comes off with it. Cleats at base of artemon for yard inhaul/outhaul. While I had a laser cutter booking, I cut out two rudder blanks from 1/4" clear cast acrylic sheet. The etched stripes are where I need to cut a notch for the brass rudder posts. Idea is to paint a scale rudder blade and leave the oversized portions clear. Started work on the commander's shelter. It will be the handle for the rear hatch, bolted to it. Hoping that stretching fabric over it will show the "tentpole" arches. One more pole to add, in its slots. It crossed my mind to 3D print the end arches and slotted sides, but then I gave my head a shake; "How lazy am I getting?". 🙄 It would have taken a good while to print, too. Long weekend at the cottage a week tomorrow. I plan to debut it to all the inlaws and some friends, most of whom don't know I've been building it. It just never came up, HaHa......I'm the only one interested in building models or in RC.......Hope to have some rigging done, definitely the rudders, and of course use the new battery pack.
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Great that she's finally in place!
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Bob, that Tamiya ESC does not go up to 12V input like you have. You can't use it with your 12V batteries and motors. Since your Rcvr LED is going out, it is not getting power, as you say. The LED flashes mean that it is briefly powered but sees no signal from the Transmitter, which you mentioned was "off". I think the ESC(s) are shutting down for some internal reason. Are your batteries fully charged? Hard to believe you have two faulty ESCs; maybe it is the wrong model for your application and some alarm (voltage, current, temperature etc) comes on and triggers a shutdown. Could connecting to two motors be affecting it? Don't know; it shouldn't. Have you tried measuring the ESC "6V" output just with batteries and ESC connected? By the way, that "320A" spec is BS from China. If only we had the specs and manual for it........ Try connecting the battery direct to motors for a minute just to verify that they're ok. "Viper" brushed marine ESCs have a good reputation around our RC boat club. They are reversible and have failsafes built in so you won't kill them with one mistaken connection. Don't know what you paid for yours but I expect Vipers cost more. See below link to one supplier. Since your motors are brushed and identical you can power both from one ESC. Since they draw a combined 9A max I would suggest the 25A model, or even the 40A ($10 more) if you want more margin on power and temperature heating. https://www.harbormodels.com/speedcontrol.html
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Bob, A little confused about your sequence of events. Have a look at the video below which shows what should happen and how the Rcvr can be powered from any of its connectors and how an ESC can power it. Also the second video about programming the GT3B. 1) Are your batteries charged? Is the polarity into the ESC correct? 2) Is your ESC connector into the Rcvr the right way around? 3) Are the Tx and Rcvr actually bound? 4) Again, try powering the Rcvr from a separate battery WITHOUT the ESC being plugged in. If it was plugged in you'd have two separate sources fighting each other to power the Rcvr Sometimes people want a separate Rcvr battery for safety, in which case they have to remove the power lead from the ESC to Rcvr cable and just use SIGNAL and GND. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9KPu9mZ4bas
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Black GND wire nearest the outside of the case is the usual standard, yes. There was no connection diagram with the ESC? Ridiculous. 👎 Bob (not Bruce; sorry about that!), can you tell us the link where you ordered it from?
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???? 🤔 Perhaps you could download the pdf manual for the ESC from the seller? Or else wait for it to arrive, presumably with at least some instructions.
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Bruce, that's the servo reversing function. It allows you to, on a per-channel basis, reverse the direction a servo will rotate with a given signal from the transmitter. For example, if you found that your rudder turned left when you turned the transmitter wheel right, instead of changing the physical linkage from servo to rudder you can just servo-reverse that channel. I had a look at the manual for your FS-GT3B and here are a few things to note: Pg 7 - in Chinglish they seem to tell you to have the receiver antenna oriented vertically, not lying along the boat's keel. Pg 21 - ABS brake function: you don't want it for a boat so turn it to OFF. Pg 23 -shows how fwd/reverse is controlled by the trigger which can be pulled OR pushed. Now I understand; I assumed the trigger could only be pulled like on a firearm or a slot-car racing set. If the motors go backward when you want forward, you can servo-reverse the throttle channel instead of swapping physical wires. It's a pretty terse manual but that's common in RC where prior knowledge is assumed. You need to read the ESC manual to find out to properly set it up for fwd/off/rev control at power-up. By the way, what's the model number of the new ESC? I'd like to look through its manual too, to be able to help you.
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OK. To augment my knowledge, how does one put the boat into reverse with these land sets? 🤔
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If it was me, I would step one power the receiver from some other 6V battery if I could (you can buy servo cable extensions and cut one connector off to connect the red and black wires to battery) and test that the Tx and Rx bind according to whatever LED flashes the receiver should display. Then plug in your rudder servo and see that it works. Power on and off several times to ensure the binding holds and see that the rudder servo behaves as you turn it. You really shouldn't have to do the above; this brand new stuff should all work. Now you know that the RC set and servo work properly. Then remove the external battery and plug in the ESC to the receiver with your 12V battery packs connected. Turn the ESC on and manipulate your throttle according to whatever ESC start-up sequence the manual specifies (which calibrates it for min/max throttle). I'm not familiar with that "land" type transmitter you have; for an aircraft transmitter used with a boat one usually powers up with the throttle stick in the centre (for "off") perhaps waits for the ESC to beep, then moves the stick to "full ahead" (wait for the beep if applicable) then moves the stick to "full reverse" and you're done. For your land transmitter I presume the trigger is just "min to max" and direction is specified by a separate switch? Or is this "brake/reverse" function I've seen mentioned something the trigger can do? I don't know. You need to consult the manuals. The ESC should now supply 6V to the receiver. The cable connecting the ESC and receiver carries the throttle signal to the receiver and also supplies the 6V to it. Test that the rudder servo still works. If not, unplug it and put two small wires into the receiver's rudder connector and measure the voltage across the 6V/GND pins. If it does then connect the motors to the ESC and test. Again if there are problems phone BIg Rich and he'll talk you through it. I wish I could drive over and help. Good luck!
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Glen, she's a thing of beauty........the ship, and Dimples. 🙂 By the way, that video about eating Pringles the "engineering" way was hilarious.
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I have to comment as clicking "wow" just doesn't do your work justice. Incredible skill on this intricate network of piping. She'll be a sight to see afloat!
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Yes, that is certainly odd ....... must have relied mainly on the men pushing at maindeck level below?
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Great job Glen! I'd have been sorely tempted to 3D print those wheels and covers; maybe the whole ship. 😉 Cheating perhaps......
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Thank you Steven. No, she won't be under sail but I do want to have the mast and artemon up, with the sails furled ie what we'd call buntlines all hauled, as if they are rowing and hoping for a fair wind soon. I think their sails went up like Roman blinds, nestled within the loops of the buntlines; at least, that's what I intend to do.
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Steven, looks great! Fine work with the thread. This has reminded me that many yards were depicted as two-piece in ancient ships. For my galley I just tapered a dowel down to form the yard. Should I make it two-piece too? It would be an interesting detail. I'm surprised at how little overlap there is between the two sections, though.
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I can just make out the "P" at the edge of the port signboard. It is indeed smaller than the front lettering.
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